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Philthy posted:Any opinions on smaller cameras I can tuck away into a pocket that wont run me over a grand? If you're interested in M4/3 at all and don't need a viewfinder, I've found the Olympus Pen series with a small fixed lens to be quite compact, more jacket pocket than pants pocket, but still very light with excellent autofocus and good IBIS as well. Maybe something like the PEN E-PL10 with an f1.8 35 or 50ml equivalent? With the 17ml (35ml equivalent), it'd be just over your budget at the links above, but you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.
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Oct 18, 2022 02:43
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Krataar posted:So I've come into a Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II with its 14-42mm lens. I dont know much about cameras but I've been doing more art lately namely painting. Since I received this camera I've been wanting to do more with it. Mostly landscapes, maybe some shots of buildings/americana type stuff, and close ups of miniature figures. I'm having trouble grokking a few things about lenses and cameras. It seems some things are interchangeable, but others arent. So I am looking for lenses that would work for these things, and then I would rent them and try them out before making a final decision. Is this the right thread for input on that? Yeah, man, I can help you with some of this. I've had an Oly Pen E-PL3, E-M10ii like yours, and currently have an E-M10iii. Any Micro Four-Thirds lens will work with your camera - the major two brands are Olympus/OMD and Panasonic, but a number of third parties make manual-focus lenses for the M4/3 mount too. The Olympus camera bodies like yours have built-in Image Stabilisation, whereas Panasonic mostly used stabilisation in the lenses themselves. This means you'll have an easier time picking lenses for your Olympus camera than you would have for a Panasonic body, as you already have stabilisation sorted. It's worth noting that because M4/3 cameras use crop sensors, a 50mm M4/3 lens has an equivalent field of view, or zoom, of a 100mm lens on a full-frame camera. So, if you're looking for what most people would refer to as a 50mm lens, you need to get a 25mm M4/3 lens to get the same view. For landscapes and general walkaround/architecture, the 14-42 kit lens you have should work fine, as you won't need a fast aperture unless you are shooting in low light or need shallow depth of field. Depending on how close you want to get to minis, it may work for that too - you shouldn't need a macro-specific lens unless you want to get wicked close. If you are interested in renting lenses, I cannot recommend enough that you try some of Olympus's small prime lenses - ones with a fixed focal length that don't zoom. They're incredibly small, light, and sharp for the price, and you can fit a bunch of them in even a small camera bag. I own and regularly use the 17mm f1.8 (35mm full-frame equivalent) for street and general walking around, and the 45mm f1.8 for portraits and people shots. I'd like a 25mm f1.8 at some point too, but I'm not sure I can justify it yet... The other lens I would recommend trying, even if its price tag is a bit higher, is the Olympus 12-40mm F2.8 Pro. This is the lens that sits on my camera most of the time - it's incredibly versatile, going from wide for landscapes and architecture to zoomed for portraits and closeups. It also has an incredibly good minimum focus distance of around 20cm, or 7.8in, and this stays the same right throughout the zoom range, so you can get surprisingly close with it, certainly close enough for almost anything you'd need to do with mini figures. The only tradeoff is the size - it's significantly larger and heavier than the primes, although still smaller than full-frame alternatives. If you have a half-decent computer, I'd also recommend you shoot in JPG+RAW mode and then edit your RAW files afterwards on the computer. The RAW files have a much greater depth of colour and brightness than straight Out-Of-Camera jpgs, and if you're used to being able to tweak things while painting to get the look and mood right, then I feel like you'd appreciate the extra control you'd have in editing your shots in Lightroom of Photoshop or some other RAW editing software rather than just accepting whatever the camera gives you. That said, my background is in VFX, so Photoshop and tweaking images is just second nature for me, YMMV...
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Nov 17, 2022 21:57
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Krataar posted:Awesome, this is really helpful. I was definitely assuming I'd need two lenses to cover the two spectrums. No worries. Do try an Olympus 12-40 f2.8 Pro before you commit to two lenses, though, if possible. It can get close enough to take photos like these of water droplets on leaves:   If you do need to get closer than that though, then yeah, you'll need a dedicated macro lens.
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Nov 18, 2022 04:38
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Grand Fromage posted:You will need a lens for it but micro four thirds lenses are pretty cheap. I've seen this one recommended: https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonic-20-1p7-o20 Yeah, that's a pretty good focal length for all-around shooting, hard to go wrong with it.
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Mar 13, 2024 20:46
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