|
I've run the Rode on a D800 and you can get the gain waaaay down if you need to. I was shooting pretty loud stuff and I'd set the mic gain to +20 db and adjust the camera gain so that'd work for the quieter times, and then click down to -10db if I knew it was going to be louder. Street bikes can be super loud but I think you'd still be within the mic's limits even with straight pipes as long as you weren't right on the exhaust.
|
#
¿
May 30, 2013 16:40
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 19:59 |
|
|
Mightaswell posted:(Pentax doesn't even make an AF 70-200F2.8). They do have this guy though: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/485184-USA/Pentax_21660_SMCP_DA_50_135mm_f_2_8_ED.html I have to have Nikon or Canon at this point in my photography life due to professional requirements, but if I didn't Pentax's stuff would meet all of my hobby needs really well—better than Nikon/Canon in a some ways. To me the it's mainly an issue if you need something particularly specialized (tilt shift lenses come to mind) or plan on moving into more of a professional setting. Not everyone is going to inevitably want things that you can only get with Canon/Nikon. And just picking Canon/Nikon doesn't make you immune to switching brands down the line—I switched from Canon to Nikon, there are people in the mirrorless thread switching from Canon/Nikon to Fuji and Olympus, etc.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2013 22:02
|
|
|
Yeah, it's probably the idea that if Pentax's system covered your needs you're not a serious amateur and are by default only using the camera a few times a year. Granted, you can't go full frame and there aren't pro bodies, but you could be a pretty drat serious amature and still do well within Pentax's framework. If being a serious amateur means you need more than what Pentax offers, that means you're only serious if you need:
I'm not saying that Pentax is a be all and end all or anything, but it seems like a pretty valid option even for a serious amateur who takes lots of pictures. The Lensrentals.com guy has a couple good blog posts where he's buying an entirely new camera system and deciding between Sony, Nikon, Olympus, and Pentax. Admittedly, he rules Pentax out in the end because he liked the flexibility of the other options (which is a totally valid reason to go Canon or Nikon--not denying that advantage), but the Pentax seemed like a decent contender anyway. Here's the blogs if anyone's interested: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/02/roger-buys-a-camera-system-refining-my-choices http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/02/roger-buys-a-camera-system-finally Also: his budget was $9000. That's a serious investment and I don't think you're talking holiday only shooting at that level. powderific fucked around with this message at 02:05 on May 31, 2013 |
|
#
¿
May 31, 2013 01:50
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Or like, a set of good autofocus f/1.4 lenses beyond the 50/1.4. I guess there's the Sigma 35/1.4 if that exists in K-mount, but if you want a 24/1.4 or an 85/1.4 or a 100 f2 or a 135 f/2 then you're kind of SOL. OK, add 1.4 aperture lenses to the list of things that are required to be a serious amateur. Pentax has plenty of good AF primes if you can bear to go without that extra bit of f-stop. And the Sigma 35, 50, and 85 are available on K mount. But I think we're all forgetting the most important Pentax advantage: pancake lenses before they were cool  .
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2013 05:30
|
|
|
Yeah, well, Pentax has a 21mm, a 40mm, AND a 70mm.
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2013 05:44
|
|
|
I'd recommend checking benchmarks before shelling out the extra for an i7. The difference between i7's and i5's of the same generation and clock speed can be veeery small.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2013 17:02
|
|
|
I try to be nice to my gear because I don't want to be stuck waiting for repair centers if something breaks. The glass elements themselves might be tougher than people expect, but that's not the part I'm most worried about. It's all the mechanical workings and veeery precise alignment of said workings that're most likely to cause problems, even on "pro" build lenses. Depending on the MFG sending it out might mean being without that piece for a month--check lensrentals repair data post for some of their average return times: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/09/lensrentals-repair-data-january-july-2012
|
|
#
¿
Jul 11, 2013 05:50
|
|
|
Do you absolutely HAVE to have the 90MB/s cards? I have two of these Lexar cards for my D800 and they work great and are cheaper than those refurbs: http://www.amazon.com/computers-accessories/dp/B00AJF1K1E On the D800 the difference between it and the pricy-er Sandisk XTREEME is pretty negligible: http://robgalbraith.com/camera_wb_multi_page9ec1.html?cid=6007-12451
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2013 19:47
|
|
|
If you want to use your old lenses you could also look for a K-30 since there seem to be some body-only around $500 and it's a great camera.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2013 03:38
|
|
|
Lensrentals.com just posted their latest repair data stats: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/08/lensrentals-repair-data-2012-2013 Always an interesting read. I'm glad to see that Nikon is trying to not be so lovely on the service side of things.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2013 20:07
|
|
|
I'd call them medium or normal sized. They're only light and compact if you're comparing them to heavy duty tripods with spreaders and whatnot.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2013 20:01
|
|
|
I have a D800 and I'm renting a 50-500 over the weekend to test out, so let me know if there's anything in particular you'd be looking for with the combo. I've never used the longer Canon offerings so I won't be much help on comparisons though.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2013 04:54
|
|
|
I haven't actually had a chance to do more that futz around in my yard with the rented 50-500 bigma but I can already tell it's not for me. One, it's definitely deserving of the bigma name (but I should have expected that) and two it seems to really be in need of a focus limiter. I keep having issues where it'll hunt a little bit and then just get stuck at MFD for some reason instead of continuing to try. I may need to give adjusting the autofocus preferences in camera a bit. When it doesn't get stuck it actually seems quite good.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2013 21:15
|
|
|
For a little more than $500 you can get the Sachtler Ace M http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/822102-REG/Sachtler_1001_Ace_Fluid_Head_with.html I have a Manfrotto 501 head and really dislike it. It has a ton of stiction—so much that it's impossible to get a fluid start or stop even on a very wide lens. The MVH500AH I bought to supplement it has become my primary head as it's actually pretty fluid. I wouldn't buy a screen magnifier either, and last time I used a Zacuto EVF it gave me crazy motion sickness for some reason (don't have that issue with any other viewfinders).
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2013 15:57
|
|
|
The best point and shoot in the price range is going to be an s90 through s110 from canon. You might be better off trying to find a cheap mirrorless as it'll do better in low light. Drinks tend to look really murky and not that nice unless you can get them backlit somehow. Usually I shoot a light into the back of them or cut out a piece of white card to match the liquid behind the glass. Edit: also, I don't care for the way drinks and glass in general look in light tents. powderific fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 28, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2013 19:53
|
|
|
There just aren't that many good options if you're not going to something with interchangeable lenses. Amazon has the s110 for $224 and the Fuji xf1 for $199, which are both pretty good. Dpreview isn't perfect by any means but they're extremely comprehensive if you see a deal on something and want to know if it's any good. Edit: and, unfortunately, it's tough to say how well even they would do in that situation. It's just a combination of tough lighting with a tough subject. powderific fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Nov 29, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2013 00:50
|
|
|
Honestly couldn't tell you--someone in the point and shoot thread might have an idea. I think most photography enthusiasts, including me, are going to have more experience more on the s90 type stuff in point and shoot land since that style and quality camera compliments bigger gear well. Your best bet would be seeing if dpreview or similar sites have reviews.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2013 05:19
|
|
|
Check out speed priority continuous shooting if you do get the RX100. It can be great for animals and people as it lets you rip off 10 shots in about a second before the buffer fills up.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2014 23:17
|
|
|
The Nikon one definitely has an USD: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013957-REG/tamron_a011_n_sp_150_600mm_f_5_6_3_di.html I think nearly all of Tamron's new manufacture lenses have motors built in. The 200-500 is the only one I can think of that doesn't off the top of my head.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2014 22:09
|
|
|
I think most people are going to pick the Sigma. They've been doing incredible work lately and the 35mm is both sharper and cheaper than the 35mm L from what I've read. Future compatibility shouldn't be an issue. Sometimes it does break with new models, I had it happen with a Sigma superzoom waaaay back when the first digital rebel came out, but all you have to do is send it in for a firmware update (or use Sigma's lens dock.) Sigma and Tamron are both making really, really good lenses these days if you're in the top of their ranges, and their service is generally good.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2014 19:54
|
|
|
Haggins posted:The problem with Canon is they don't give a poo poo about their crop sensors. The sensors haven't really improved much since 2007. As far as the high end full frame side goes, things are great except for the big price increases. A 5d3 is a little more reasonable now, but it's been out for almost 2 years now. The 24-70 2.8 II doesn't have IS. Only one I know of that does is the Tamron. I don't think their full frame sensor tech has really advanced that much either, not in the same way that Nikon has anyway. Where they've made the biggest improvements in FF stuff is in the not-sensor areas like AF, FPS, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2014 18:12
|
|
|
Sony's FF sensors are amazing, but the new crop of crop cameras from Nikon actually use Toshiba sensors.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2014 20:11
|
|
|
Nikon's US service is slow and generally does not compare well to Canon, Sigma, Tamron, or anyone other than Olympus really. It's the only thing I really miss about shooting Canon.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2014 00:07
|
|
|
For finished photos people post on the net you'll find stuff that looks great from all sorts of cameras that don't have amazing sensors—you don't have to have the best to make a good photo. Where you'll really notice the difference is if you're actually using the camera and doing post processing yourself. An example would be HDR shots, where the sky is super bright and the landscape is relatively very dim. With the D800's massive shadow detail you can expose for the highlights and bring up the shadows in post instead of doing several exposures. And when you actually see the shadows compared it's a very obvious difference. This Fred Miranda article has a good example: http://www.fredmiranda.com/5DIII-D800/index_controlled-tests.html
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2014 17:50
|
|
|
Just look at guides on DPreview if that's what you want. I doubt anyone here has all that much time cross comparing bridge cameras.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2014 19:35
|
|
|
If he can live without the tele look at the RX100 original version. It's right near your price point and is a fantastic camera. That's my dad's dad camera and he loves it.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2014 20:21
|
|
|
Ha, reminds me of when this bad boy was the pinnacle of cameraphone technology. Also, of cameraphones being a thing: I actually kindof miss the old candybar phone shape.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2014 18:10
|
|
|
I used a blackrapid strap with my gripped D800 and a Nikon 70-200 2.8 quite frequently without any ill effects. Are you worried it's going to break or something? The had some issues early on, but that was more the design of the swivel being fundamentally flawed and coming unscrewed rather than breakage, IIRC.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2014 17:58
|
|
|
A while back my dad ordered a 16 gig USB flash drive from amazon and got a 64gig Lexar 400x Cf card in the mail instead. It was especially strange since that's the exact card I bought for my d800 a couple weeks prior. We thought maybe amazon had mixed up our orders somehow but the package invoice had the USB stick listed.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2014 07:00
|
|
|
There's a lot of info in this thread, I think it's from people that sell calibration stuff but good info nonetheless: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11436
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
MrBlandAverage posted:This is a 6 year old post and recommending a $500 calibrator for everybody is insane. The thing they're recommending is the same sensor as the Colormunki Display with more robust software so I don't think it's that out of date? I mostly like it for the info it gives on the different color meter technologies. It does seem like the Colomunki Display makes the most sense for basic use. They probably have the Display3 Pro as the "best for everyone" recommendation because it's the cheapest thing that is both good and works with 3rd party software.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2014 22:56
|
|
|
Overture posted:If you were going on a trip like this, with those requirements, what would you do? Also curious which lenses you'd go with considering both stills and video are important, but I likely don't have room for 2 in my bag (3 max if absolutely necessary, but in the past I've generally only ever used 2 lenses in my collections... one ultra wide and one great portrait lens). Keep in mind that M4/3 lenses are small enough that you could realistically bring twice as many in the same amount of room. Autofocus with video should be an "emergency use only" kind of thing so I wouldn't really count that in the GH3's favor. I shot a video project this summer with a GH3, D800, and XF300, so I sortof had a pair of similar cameras at my disposal (no where near as picturesque as Patagonia though, and I had a dedicated photographer along.) For the GH3 I had the 12-35mm 2.8 and rented the 45-100mm 2.8, and on the D800 I had an assortment of primes and the 24-120mm 4.0, which stayed on the camera pretty much any time it wasn't dark enough to push me to a prime. Generally, the GH3 was really nice to use. Having an articulating screen and viewfinder were both incredibly helpful, as was the weight. I wound up selling it because it was too much work color grading to match the D800/XF300 on multi camera interviews, and I did prefer the D800's image overall. The weight alone is a pretty good reason to pick the smaller camera if you're backpacking. On the stills, I found the GH3 to be much better than I expected. Good enough that I'd be comfortable bringing it as a primary camera. I'd want the two lenses mentioned previously plus a couple primes. If I went with the MkII I'd probably go for the 24-105 f4 IS. Back when I had a MkII it was my favorite lens for video. As a bonus, it's a very reliable, sturdy lens compared to some of the other constant aperture zooms. I'd want a couple fast primes too but the MkIII's low light ability might make that less of a necessity.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2014 15:53
|
|
|
Thanks to the GH4 coming out I'm betting you'll be able to find some decent deals as well. I'm seeing a few for $700-$800.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2014 23:03
|
|
|
Delivery McGee posted:Speaking of which, if any of you have somehow not heard of gaffer tape, buy a roll. It's like duct tape but better in every way. I really want to get a roll of industry tape and see if it's actually any better than normal gaffer's tape: https://industrytape.com/
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2014 15:13
|
|
|
The white Amazon basics NiMH are the same cell as I forget which generation of eneloop and are great. The low self discharge thing is really nice and makes a difference for me.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2014 05:15
|
|
|
A weather sealed Pentax something or other would be a great way to go for adventure riding type situation. You'll probably want to take photos in the elements and I imaging there'll be plenty of dust around. Never really hear about shooting video on them though—I don't think they're bad like the Fuji's but it'd be worth doing some investigation to see if it's up to what you'd want. Edit: didn't see the above post before writing mine. I'd second the MFT recommendation if Pentax's video turns out to be not so hot. And that's the only way you're likely to get serviceable 600mm equivalent lenses for not a fortune.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
Nothing is going to be perfect. You just need to think about what'll best meet your needs, try some stuff out in the store if you can, and make a decision. Pretty sure the GH3 is almost exactly the same size as an FZ200. They should be getting cheaper on the used market thanks to the GH4 coming out too. In any case, the FZ200 isn't a particularly small camera—here it is compared to a K-50: http://camerasize.com/compare/#462,349 If you actually care at all about low light I wouldn't get the FZ200. Or about taking pictures and enjoying cameras. It isn't really a camera you're going to "grow into." The K-50 would be my choice as I'm also a Pentax fanboy, but I haven't been able to find any video samples from it so far.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2014 16:56
|
|
|
No aperture change in live view is the crazy thing on Nikons. For whatever reason the D800 doesn't have this limitation. It's a shame too as the D5300 produces some beautiful video. I've been thinking about picking one up anyway since they're not that pricy and I'd love an articulated screen.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2014 17:48
|
|
|
Aperture change is still very audible on the d800. And there's no reason they shouldn't let you change aperture in stills live view.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2014 18:38
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 19:59 |
|
|
Yeah, bumping up a notch from the lowest cameras could get you a bit more of a good feel. I suspect that Pentax will feel a little better since it has front and rear dials. For audio you could use an external recorder if you get that into it. It's a bit of a pain, but less so than it once was thanks to automated syncing tools.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2014 03:57
|
|