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powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
There's definitely options in that range, but you may be looking more at DSLRs and maybe Micro 4/3 stuff than any of the newer mirrorless mounts. Something like this maybe: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/802508607-USE/olympus_v207021su000_om_d_e_m10_mirrorless_micro.html

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powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Laowa has a macro lens sorta like the MP-E 65 now too, though it's 25mm and 2.5-5x instead of 65mm and 1-5x. They have it in a few mounts (though not X). https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-25mm-f-2-8-2-5-5x-ultra-macro-2/

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I like using them if I'm gonna be wiping the lens a lot or there's going to be grit flying around. Like if it's raining hard and I'm going to be constantly hitting it with towel, filming equipment that's flinging dirt/whatever, mud and sand spray, welding sparks/grinder sparks, etc. Some of that stuff is just way easier to clean off a filter than the little nooks and crannies of the front of a lens barrel, especially if I'm moving fast. Generally I keep them on my zooms as they tend to see the rougher use, and leave them off my primes as I want the best image quality there and tend to baby them a little more.

I've never had one actually take an impact or save a lens though. If I was in a setting where I had time to clean a bit more carefully I don't think it'd make that much difference (other than flying sparks maybe.)

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I have a first version aps-c GR (I’m actually on my second after the first broke) and have never found anything I like more for carrying around. Tried the x100 a few different times, LX10, small sensor zoom compacts, putting a small lens on my regular cameras (d750, z6, x-20, a6000, gh3). Nothing quite matches the image/size combo for me. Didn’t really like the new gr with ibis enough to get over the changes they made to the controls.

But yeah AF is really slow and you don’t have an evf. I haven’t found it to be an issue but I’ve also been using it forever.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

Crazyweasel posted:

Are the Fujifilm recommendations still in play here? Also what are the main differentiators (if any) to be aware of between manufacturers?

The biggest difference in handling is that Fuji has older film-body style controls for kindof a vintage feel and a different way of interacting with the camera's settings. Some people really like, I don't myself, but you can also for the most part use them like a modern camera too. I second whoever said to try handling some in a shop if she can to get a sense for what feels good to use.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I get not overspending on things but it's so patronizing to just dismiss people's questions and tell them to just buy the cheapest option cause they won't understand the differences anyway.

And really I think the difference and feel/controls between a Fuji and Canon/Nikon are easy enough to see as an amateur. Maybe OP's wife will think the retro thing is cool and fun. Maybe the more modern style SLR controls will feel better. The whole film simulation thing is all about not shooting in raw and having something out of camera that you like without doing raw processing.

powderific fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Feb 5, 2023

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

Dog Case posted:

I'm not dismissing the question, I'm dismissing the typical camera nerd advice that assumes that somebody asking for babby's first camera will have the same preferences that they developed over years of touching cameras.

Nobody's asked if OP's wife is into retro stuff, they just started suggesting specific expensive stuff that they like

OP specifically asked about Fuji, gave a budget, and asked about what major differences were between the brands. I think sharing what makes Fuji different and giving a suggestion within that budget is pretty reasonable. They aren't Leicas or something, they've got a full line of cameras that includes entry level bodies. It's possible that OP's wife doesn't care, but I still think that it's worth putting hands on them in a store cause maybe they do and you can go either direction without that much price swing.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I actually like the direction Nikon has been going in general, feels like they're building out a solid line of bodies and lenses. The APS-C F-mount lens lineup wasn't that hot either, and I think that they're positioning some of the compact full frame lenses to fill the budget/DX holes. Like instead of the nifty fifty or DX 35mm you'd look at the 40mm f2 or 28mm f 2.8. They're still more expensive, but more more in line with the cheaper F-mount lenses.

Saying all that, I switched from Nikon to Panasonic a couple years back with the S1H for its video. I think the Z6 I traded off was a nicer stills camera, but the S1H is good enough and worth the switch for me. With the more compact Z-mount lenses coming out I'm thinking about picking up a used Z5 for a personal stills camera.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Nikon has said they're doing exactly that in their investor presentation things. I think it makes sense given their much smaller share of the market and camera sales contracting on the low end especially. To me they have some nice options that feel within the "enthusiast" category, but I get that there are cheaper options, especially when you've got so much used and third party glass for e-mount these days.

I'm excited Nikon finally has a pancake lens for the system — that was one thing that kinda bugged me while they were building out the lineup. The 1.8 lenses are nice and relatively light, but they're all kinda long.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Technically it didn’t exist in buyable form during that discussion.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

other people posted:

I have a fuji X-E1 that I never use any more because every time I try to get back into it I get super mad at how bad the auto focus is. Unless you are in a very well lit space and you slowly find an edgy thing to make it focus on it almost always produces an out of focus image. I used to really like this camera but I have grown to hate it.

Anyway, I would like something more modern (with wifi) and more compact. More pointy-shooty, even. That has me looking at the Ricoh GR3 however one hesitation is that some of the reviews comment on the poor autofocus performance in low light. But "bad" today versus the 10 year old fuji surely doesn't mean the same thing, right?

I'm not trying to take pics of a diving bird but being able to point it at a baby crawling across the room during the day and have it come out in focus would be a nice feature.

It'll be better but it's still not all that great. Baby crawling across the floor, like, 6 feet away, sure. Closeup maybe not so much, and babies become toddlers who are much faster ha. I have so many great shots of my little girl when she was still crawling, but now it's almost all camera phone stuff because she's too fast and too interested in the camera for me to have much luck any other way.

Rent one and see how you like it. Maybe it is good enough!

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

TVGM posted:

Following up on this, I did purchase the X-H2 with the XF18-80mm F4 kit lens last week.

The main draw for me was Pixel Shift, and I was extremely disappointed with it at first as the combined image output just wasn't sharp when I zoomed in. I only realized today that I needed to further develop it, using Affinity Photo 2 in my case.

I also had the paintings photographed at a local archiving place (they use a Phase One IQ180) so that I could compare the results with Pixel Shift.

The X-H2 does decently against the Phase One in my opinion, but is still a bit fuzzy in the details.
IQ180 (80MP): 1/2s, f/22, ISO 35, 80mm
X-H2 (160MP): 2/5s, f/10, ISO 125 (as low as I can go), 16mm

These are zoomed in about 33%. Phase One is on the left.




Would a lower aperture help clarify it even more, or is that only for subjects with depth?

I'm guessing the you are out resolving the lens, and it also looks like that lens loses sharpness around the aperture you chose compared to more open so you're also using it in a way that makes it weaker anyway: https://www.opticallimits.com/fuji_x/1103_fuji1680f4ois?start=1 I'm not sure how much you can blame on pixel shift here as even just at the native resolution you might have been encountering some softness in the borders especially. You might try a better aperture or a sharper lens.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I'm not sure there's gonna be more lens selection for L mount really, but they do have a wider kit zoom available with the S5 that you might like, it's 20-60 or something and seems like used kits with both run round $1200. Sony is who really have the big lens selection available from being around as mirrorless for so long. Of those, I would probably go for the Z6 were it me cause I like Nikon's handling and current lens lineup. The S5's biggest weakness is its contrast detect autofocus and I think Panasonic generally has less nice colors out of the box. It's got great video though. I do not personally like using Sony but many people do and it's got the best lens selection by a bit.

Edit: they're all good cameras though and have options that'd work for you; you might want to see if you can get your hands on em and see what you like.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
The thing that I feel like really makes the difference in a fluid head is whether you can ease in/out of the move smoothly. Most of the cheaper heads I've used, even if they're well reviewed, can do a continuous motion OK but starting and stopping aren't great.

A Miller DS20 on their solo CF legs was my first good fluid head setup and I still use it for b-cam. Other than the drag settings being simple knobs vs numbers with stops I still really like it. It's super light for it's capacity and I still find it very useable if I've got it on something that my main head doesn't work with. They've been around for a while so I'd think you could find a used one for quite a bit less than $1000.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

Lights posted:

Ok so it's maybe a little off the exact Gear topic, but I'm looking to find a new web host for storing my photos / running my domain & email. I currently use NixiHost, who I've been really happy with, but as my storage needs have increased, my plan has become more and more inadequate, and they don't offer any ability to upgrade storage without losing my grandfathered-in pricing. Any suggestions for a good web hosting solution for photographers that isn't something like SquareSpace?

edit: for context, my primary need for space is as an event photographer to store and send images for clients. I don't need anything to build me a front end, I just need domain hosting, email and a big ol' chunk of storage that I can send people links to.

I use SmugMug and Dropbox depending on what I'm sharing with people and use separate services for domain and email. I dunno what you're paying now, but smugmug + some other service for emails is pretty affordable.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

Mister Speaker posted:

As an aside, the rapid shutter on the Z9 is also insane. It just sounds, and feels, way better. It's quieter but it still has some weight to it, if that makes sense? Do camera companies tune the feel of their DSLR/mirrorless shutters?

The Z9 doesn't actually have a shutter other than the sensor cover thing, so yes they tuned it in the sense that it's totally simulated?

For AF yes it's a combination of the lens and the camera. FWIW I wouldn't expect a lens to focus fast just cause it's a prime, they're a mixed bag as much as anything and plenty of nice primes in the normal to mid telephoto ranges are a little pokey.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
The vast majority of mirrorless cameras have a shutter; it’s just the mirror and prism they don’t have. Usually the mechanical shutters have an actuation rating and they aren’t that different from dslr counts cause the shutter is similar. Notable exceptions being the z8 and z9.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

echinopsis posted:

ok so the bit depth is the most important factor disregarding encoding?

I thought and maybe this is too simplistic, was a way to squeeze a higher dynamic range onto a smaller dynamic range (the video codec), and done on a curve to preserve the more important parts of the image, and then in post you reverse it to get back close to the original, but also with flexibility to deal with highlights and shadows coz they weren’t clipped

ok .. better question I suppose : are there cases where using log is a worse idea?

There are a couple things going on with log in reference to video, and it is sorta related to fitting data in but not quite in the way you'd described. For one, the image you get in post after putting a LUT on a log file or adjusting the curves isn't "reversing to the original" — non-log image with a baked in Rec.709 look or whatever isn't what the camera originally saw — it's also gone through processing and curves.

Secondly, the data file's relation to dynamic range is more about what parts of the image you're putting information to vs. being able to fit the extents. Like, even if your file only had black or white, you could set those to be the furthest extent of the sensor and capture the camera's full dynamic range. But of course those steps in the middle matter, and the log curve is about taking the image the camera sensor sees and using the available data where it does the most good.

The main reason we use log curves is because cameras see linearly (and our eyes don't) and if you encode that directly you spend a lot of data on gradations on the highlight end of the image and comparitively not much on the shadow end. That doesn't map well to how we see the world with our eyes. This page has some good discussion of it: https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/50062-gamma-curve-and-log/

From that link:

quote:

Let’s assume that we want to capture an 8 stops image from a sensor that has 12 bits internal processing that’s 4096 steps of light intensity to an 8bit compressed H264 file that’s 256 steps like a 5D camera is doing.

In “linear” the top brightest stop n. 8 will consume 128 steps, the stop n. 7 will consume the next 64 steps and the stop n. 6 will consume the next 32 steps. The top 3 brightest stops of an image when is being described in linear will result to “consume” the 87,5% of the available bits in a file, leaving the lower 5 stops of the mid-tones/shadows to be described by just 32 bits…!!!

On "Log" we allocate 10 stops in equivalent segments like 25 bits for each stop. That results to a secondary data compression of an applied curve, which needs to be decompressed with the use of an appropriate 3D LUT in order to counteract accurately also the saturation of the converted image. By doing that we effectively recreate information that wasn’t visible in the original file but was there in the original image the sensor was capturing.

Again, from that link, here's sorta what it winds up looking like with linear grayscale at the top and log at the bottom:



When you record the log version, you get a lot more detail where it counts, but when spread the data like that if you look at it without a LUT it'll seem washed out. But a linear file would also look "wrong," just in a different way. The finished out of the box image you think of as normal has a different curve too.

As for when you wouldn't use LOG or it causes problems, in cameras that have lower bit depth files you can wind up with color banding that looks nasty. This was a thing that'd happen on FS5s a lot I recall. Otherwise not shooting in log is more about saving time in post with a closer to finished image.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Tamron and Sigma both have Z mount lenses now, but not many yet as they're just starting. Nikon's 1st party lineup is pretty solid at this point though.

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powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
My first SLR was a clapped out KX and as a 12 year old self taught beginner I did fine with it. I think the OP will probably enjoy learning the camera and if not it’ll still be worth about the same if they decide to ditch it.

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