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rawrr posted:It's time for your first L - get the 70-200/4L for about $500 used and don't look back. It'll be perfectly adequate for outdoor sports. nielsm posted:Corrections and suggestions for more FAQ stuff welcome. (Maybe something about ND and POL filters?) When light is reflected off of a nonmetallic surface, such as glass, a car's paint, water, or the air and water vapor in the atmosphere, the reflected light is polarized - the reflected waves of light are oriented in the same direction. This light can be blocked partially or entirely by using a polarizing filter. There are two types of polarizing filters that are used in photography, linear and circular. The difference is linear and circular polarization is shown in this Youtube video. The most important difference is that Linear polarizers interfere with phase detection autofocus and through-the-lens metering. Unless you're manually focusing and manually setting exposure, you want a circular polarizer. Polarizing filters can be adjusted to pass, partially pass, or block polarized light. This allows you to take pictures of reflective surfaces like cars or bodies of water and cut most or all of the reflection so you can see the car's real paint color and see through the windows, see what's under the surface of the water. The other common effect is to darken the sky. Light from the sky is maximally polarized 90° from the sun. One thing to remember about a polarizing filter is that it's one of few effects that can not be replicated in post-processing. A good polarizer is an important piece of your kit if you're ever going to take pictures of anything reflective. The best bang for your buck when it comes to circular polarizers is the Marumi Super DHG CPL. Get it to fit your biggest lens (probably 67mm unless you have a Canon or Nikkor 70-200 f/2.8, in which case it's 77mm) and a set of step-down rings to fit it on the rest of your lenses. Neutral Density Filters: ND Filters reduce the amount of light that passes through them. A good ND filter does this evenly for all wavelengths, meaning it just makes your image darker without imparting any sort of color cast. Why is this important? Say you're shooting in broad daylight. The good old sunny 16 rule says that at ISO 100, you'll get a proper exposure at 1/100 and f/16. Let's say you wanted to shoot a portrait wide open at f/2.0. That's 6 stops faster, so you'd have to increase shutter speed to around 1/4000. What if your camera doesn't go that high? Or, let's say you want to shoot a long exposure of water flowing to get that smooth, silky look everyone knows, let's say 1/2 second. that's also 6 stops more light and unless you're shooting large format, your lens probably doesn't stop down that far. The solution is the Neutral Density Filter. The light reducing property of an ND Filter goes by powers of two, with each power being another stop of light reduction. 2x is one stop, 4x is two stops, 8x is three stops, and so on. Generally, you can't go wrong with B+W filters, but the quality is reflected in the price. I don't know if there are any cheaper ones that are good but still worth the price. Same goes for ND Filters as polarizers, get one to fit your biggest lens and step down rings to adapt to others. As far as primes, the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 in EF mount has a reputation for being a good fast prime, although quality control is hit-or-miss. If you're willing to accept the possibility that you might have to exchange your first one, it's great for the price.
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Jul 1, 2012 21:21
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So, $90 for a first gen 5D is a steal, right?
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Apr 12, 2019 03:24
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torgeaux posted:Ignore this guy. Buy the 5D, it'll still kick rear end even with that sensor.
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Apr 13, 2019 02:01
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