Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Rontalvos
Feb 22, 2006

PBio posted:

Yes but i'm not sure how often, its a tour company holiday but 95% of it is going to be camping. Most of the time i'll have access to power will be through the minibus charger ports.


Thanks, i'll have a look for those when i'm there. I'm going to try get everything I need tomorrow before I go, but my local camera shop is a bit poo poo.

TrekAmerica, by chance?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rontalvos
Feb 22, 2006

Geek USSR posted:

Later this month I'm shooting the US Pond Hockey tourney here in Minneapolis. Should be a lot of fun, but I have a couple questions to prepare for it.

First, my understanding is that if I get a neutral density filter it'll help the camera meter better with the contrast of the white snow backgrounds and the bright colors of the players' jerseys. If this is true, my assumption would be to get a .3 ND filter because I want to still be able to take fast action shots. Am I good so far?

Second, when shooting people in bright snow with film it's recommend to shoot center weighted metering and to crank up exposure 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. If I'm using a ND filter, do I still need to do this? I'm shooting a Nikon F100 with a mix of Ektar 100 and Kodak Gold 400 if it matters.

All of this is wrong. An ND filter will reduce the total amount of light coming in through the lens, useful in very specific circumstances only. Forget ND for anything action-shot related.

Second, I don't know about center weighted, but what I was taught was you need to open up by 2 stops over whatever your meter is telling you. The meter is saying "holy poo poo there is a lot of light out there, we need to stop down to turn it grey" because your meter wants to turn everything grey. You need to compensate for this by opening up 2 stops. I guess if you were averaging this makes sense, but for center weighted I don't know. If you were using a DSLR I would say shoot and then review the histograms but if I was shooting film I would shoot averaging meter and +2 stops EC.

Edit: Beaten sort of.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply