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VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

xzzy posted:

He's got a video about photographers all wearing glasses because they irradiated their head looking through viewfinders and destroyed their eyes. The whole thing has this uncanny valley thing where it kind of seems like he's joking and you hope he is but you come away with an "uh, no, he believes this."

It's how Harris Savides died (brain cancer due to constantly looking through thoriated glass) and Gordon Willis lost his eyesight (also constantly looking through thoriated glass). The link between the two is that they loved shooting with Bausch and Lomb Super Baltars, which are notoriously radioactive.


Yeah, I kinda wish the Filmy Filmmakers subforum still existed. Things seemed to move faster there.

VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Sep 27, 2020

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VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

xzzy posted:

In other news: anyone got an opinion on the most physically rugged SD cards out there?

I'm done with SanDisk, their cards degrade badly and start shedding plastic bits after a couple years. I don't expect stuff to last forever but I'd reeeeeely prefer they didn't jam my camera's SD slot and necessitate expensive repairs so if there's something better out there I'd love to know of it.

The Sony Tough ones are pretty good but really expensive.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

xzzy posted:

The old technique is stretching some nylon stockings over the font element.

For more fun and an old school look, I recommend netting the rear element. :getin:

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

um excuse me posted:

I need to buy babbys first video lights and was wondering what I should get. LED panels weren't even a thing back when I first thought about branching into video/hot light photography. Are they pretty much the go to set up for small production video? I love the RGB ability but have heard that some may flicker in video. I'm also concerned with how bright they can get. Do they pair well with 100Ws strobes or are they going to be completely drowned out on anything except the lowest settings on the strobes?

Naturally Newer has a kit that is tempting, but I know they're absolutely entry level equipment and my expectations should be to spend more.

If you're going with budget lights, I would recommend GVM, Yongnuo, or your aforementioned Neewer. If you want the big boys, I recommend Aputure, Creamsource, Litepanels, Litemat, Quasar Science, and Nanlite.

VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jun 27, 2022

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

big scary monsters posted:

I was also looking for some budget LED panels a while back and got a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/simorr-Rechargeable-Photography-Conference-TikTok-3489/dp/B09G98NRQZ
Obviously you don't get anything like the power of a proper setup, but they worked great for me to record some talking to a camera stuff for a conference, and the colour temperature control is pretty handy.

Oh yeah, those are good. I used another off-brand version of those to shoot a horror feature.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

Mister Speaker posted:

Was the thread title formerly "don't buy ND filters?" I thought I remembered there being some thread beef against them. When I provided the camera for a friend's short film a few months ago, he bought a set, so now I have a set of ND filters. Are they dumb? Is there something about messing with light polarity that makes for lovely photography?

No, I think it always said don't buy UV filters because the quality of the glass and coatings used for them tend to be subpar and end up screwing with the resolving power of the lens, and they were only really a thing when shooting on film.

In any case, I use NDs plenty. Useful for long exposures or if you want to shoot with a shallower depth of field for portraits.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

the_lion posted:

I've been told by one guy that I should be prepared to spend $1000 AUD on a Miller.

I don't think you necessarily need to buy a Miller although they are good heads. I would go with Bottom Liner's suggestion.

quote:

He says manfrotto is worth skipping over.

Absolutely right about this one though, Manfrotto is terrible and not what they used to be 20 years ago.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!
To add to powerific's post, another big thing is bounce back. Cheaper heads will bounce back a little bit when you stop a pan or a tilt but a good head won't go back a tiny bit when you stop the move. I started off with a Bogen-Manfrotto 503 head and it was decent for the time though there was significant bounce back when you stopped a pan. When I went to film school, I was using the Sachtler Video 18 S2 on cycle films and the OConnor 2575D on my thesis, and I gotta tell you, nothing really compares once you've used an OConnor head (but who can afford 20k :smith: ).

Closest thing I got out of film school was a used Cartoni Delta and honestly, it performs just as well as the Sachtler Video 18 S2 but with the added benefit of a continuous counterbalance system. Once you've worked with a head that has continuous counterbalance, you don't want to go back to stepped counterbalance.

VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 15, 2023

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!
There's always the Sigma Art 105mm f/1.4. :v:

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

dupersaurus posted:

So since that maxim about crop sensors having more reach is essentially a question of pixel density (ie, same number of pixels in smaller area), doesn’t that mean a full-frame sensor with a similar density essentially has that same reach, you just have to crop it yourself?

This moment of galaxy brain thinking brought to you by learning the Z7 has a DX mode and having a huge duh-doy experience

Yes, in fact we do that a lot in the film industry (shooting larger format/resolution then cropping in). David Fincher does that with every single one of his digital movies so that he can reframe and post-stabilize shots.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

V for Vegas posted:

It's not great condition. I've looked and it would probably go for around 3500. That's not nothing but it's not a fortune and I'd rather keep it. I don't want to spend thousands on lenses and happy to tool around with it and learn the ropes. Just asking about opinions on voigtlander lenses.

If you're gonna keep it, get yourself a Voigtlander Nokton Vintage 50mm f/1.5.

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VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

Ihmemies posted:

I don't care about quality that much. I'm just so sick of old and used cameras which are out of warranty and don't work anymore. A camera which has a guarantee, and a manufacturer which will most likely service any camera they made "forever", would give a peace of mind that I don't have to think about broken poo poo or how to get it fixed. The Zeiss and Bessa cameras are all old I think too, 10+ years old at least today.

I heard through the grapevine that Cosina, the manufacturer of both the modern Bessa and Zeiss Ikon ZM lines, fabricated a ton of parts during the lifetime of both cameras (they both use common parts) so finding someone to repair the cameras isn't a problem (Zeiss and Cosina still service them too).

But anyway, buy a ZM.

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