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You can EFI swap that motor for pocket change with parts from almost any tbi chevy 350 in the boneyard. Also, as noted, amc 360 != chrysler 360. Nothing is the same about them, not even the motor mounts. Stick with an amc v8 or go all the way. Personally I would stuff a well built, efi swapped 401 in it and
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Jul 20, 2012 15:24
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Is that an AMC 20 rear differential?  What the hell? Bricklin used an AMC engine *and* differential? Didn't they know that in AMC fashion, they're supposed to use a few rather critical and yet badly designed GM parts?
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Jul 22, 2012 06:16
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joat mon posted:They goofed even further and hooked the motor up to an AMC TF 727 too, rather than GM's TH 400, as God intended. That's actually not a horrible sin, AMC/Jeep was already using TF727s behind that exact motor in various offerings so it was something they could simply bolt in instead of spending engineering time on it. No surprise that they changed to a different auto when they went to the 351W for later year SVs, either... too bad they stopped offering a manual when they went to Ford power 
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Jul 22, 2012 22:15
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BoostCreep posted:And this is pretty cool. Every Bricklin entered the US through New England and was sent to Pennsylvania before being shipped out to dealers across the country. This means they were all issued at one point "Transfer tags" that allowed them to be moved around and driven from the trucks to the various dealers and whatnot before shipping out to other states. Is Pennsylvania like Massachusetts, in that they only issued every other year for year-of-manufacture plates at some times, which resulted in both 57 and 58 getting '57 year of manufacture plates, for instance? It took me forever to find out about that, I'd spent a long time at swap meets pawing through plate vendors stacks looking for '58 plates before I ran into someone who happened to tell me that there was no such thing, and that I needed '57 plates and a tag to stick to the top center of the windshield listing it as a '58. I'm not sure how a '74 could end up with '76 this way but it's another possible explanation perhaps. E: you're welcome, and ever so much smarter than me, clearly! vvv kastein fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 04:33
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70s fiberglass composites and superior plastics  I haven't seen that kind of fiberglass since forever. Oh, how I miss it... not.
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Oct 10, 2012 02:20
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He should have hosed up an H2 or maybe an Escalade EXT.
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Oct 10, 2012 06:16
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Collateral Damage posted:Doesn't the H2 come pre-hosed-up from the factory? I was going to say that but I figured people would get mad at me.
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Oct 10, 2012 17:01
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One thing to keep in mind when situating your new drivetrain is the manual's shift tower location. Even if you're starting with an auto, you should be very careful to keep that in mind when building your motor mounts so that you don't have to move the engine all over again during the manual swap to avoid cutting the bodywork/center console to install the shifter.
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Oct 22, 2012 04:53
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Is there even a lift pump in those? there may not be, at which point, just install an external pump in the line. There's some good info here on a Ford pump and a Bosch CIS pump that may meet your requirements. http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9620&start=15 (Thanks to chrisgt for the link, had to go digging in my irc logs to find it)
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Oct 28, 2012 17:33
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If you were any closer I'd gladly take it, my M54A2 gives zero fucks about what I feed it so long as it's liquid, somewhat flammable, and under 85 octane. I'm actually supposed to throw a few quarts of motor oil in the tank if I run it on pump gas. So what I'm saying is find a guy in your area with an old multifuel military truck. He'll get 50 miles out of it. If you're going to be out toward Apple Valley anytime soon, 100dollarman is out there, he'd probably gladly take it.
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Dec 10, 2012 01:03
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it is so strange seeing an AMC 20 rear diff in something other than a jeep or Eagle.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:22
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Agreed. A T56 and all the trimmings costs $4900, a built 4L60e and a T56 to replace it costs $6550 
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Jan 6, 2013 07:50
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Awesome! The funny thing is, I bet even with that big expensive transmission, you still end up spending less in parts to put this car together than most people would on an econobox - for instance MSRP on a Camry is $22k or so.
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Jan 16, 2013 23:11
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Wish I'd seen this before you ordered... Anchor brand mounts are loving JUNK in my experience. I bought a set for a Jeep 4.0 and the rubber was so incredibly low quality that it was leaving gummy marks on the inside of the box, the mold flashing was around 2mm thick and extended approx 1/2" from the mounts along the mold separation lines and the rubber was somehow (even though it was leaving gummy residue on anything it touched) already cracking and peeling away from the metal. I ended up throwing them out because it wasn't worth the money to ship them back. Hopefully they have cleaned up their act in recent history, this was 2-3 years ago and they were being made in either India or Korea IIRC.
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Feb 24, 2013 07:14
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BoostCreep posted:Why can't we just adopt the metric system here. Everything would be so much easier. It's not an AMC/Jeep based product till it has both external and internal torx on SAE and metric threaded fasteners. With some big inside hex/allens and such thrown in for good measure. I'm slightly surprised they didn't find a way to put any Whitworth fasteners on them. (Did you get any E12 external Torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing or is that only an actual Jeep thing? I know it shares an engine/bellhousing pattern, so there's a chance...)
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Aug 26, 2013 23:22
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Stop looking for pipe and look for DOM tubing - you want 2" OD 0.250 wall? Here you go, this place typically has good shipping. http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15548&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 Show up at your local steel supplier for plate/box tube and just say you want to look through the drop pile and are quite negotiable about what exactly you're looking for... I have paid as little as 10 bucks for random bits of plate and box tube because the list of things that would work for me was very large, I didn't need any help, and they didn't have to lift a finger to cut it to size because I was willing to buy the whole thing.
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Aug 27, 2013 15:39
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Like this? http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=13487&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=0 Hopefully the place near you has some on hand, because $30 is a little steep, but not too bad I guess since you only need to buy it once. Actually, give ruffstuff specialties a call and see what they think, they sell premade DOM bushing sleeves with grease zerks (not really needed for your app IMO) and if you call are usually OK with doing custom lengths and diameters IIRC. A friend got some for an upper control arm build recently and they were pretty helpful. The prices I see on their website for the DOM (turned to square up the ends, with a zerk), bushing, and bushing sleeve are about half what a foot of the bare DOM will cost you from onlinemetals, so you can probably get just the turned/squared up DOM for even cheaper. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 21:00
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The other thing you could do is pull the carbed fuel sender (which I assume is just a snorkel of sorts and a level sender bracket, basically) and attach an in-tank pump to its business end, then put in-tank pickups for a fuel cell on the inlet to the pump. Might come out well, might come out hack as poo poo, depends on how much you think about it and what parts you use. Getting power to it might be difficult, I know on some fuel senders there's an easy way to swap out the bushing for the wire to the sender to one with more wires going through it, but sometimes there just isn't space. I'd probably go with an external pump though. Much easier to service if/when it fails. Not sure you need the surge tank, I've seen externals that require no cooling, just bolt to the frame rail and plumb lines. Obviously, make sure you use FI pressure rated fuel hose downstream of the pump. Don't try to jam a too small hose over the barb, either, even if it goes on there, it damages the inner layer of rubber and allows fuel to get between the inner/outer layers of rubber along the reinforcement weave, which quickly separates the layers and bursts the outer layer of rubber, then you have fuel everywhere. Learned that one the hard way, but fortunately nothing caught fire.
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Sep 9, 2013 23:38
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If you intend to make an adapter plate, having it further off is actually usually easier than that close, because you get more clearance for bolts.
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Sep 10, 2013 22:47
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Sorry, I meant engine mount adapter plate, not bellhousing adapter plate.
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Sep 11, 2013 00:21
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That looks like someone got stupid with a prybar and a sledgehammer trying to get the engine and trans to come the gently caress apart. Been there, but realized I missed a bolt before I broke anything. Also it looks like a rattle canned junkyard transmission. Check if the RTV/gaskets and seals are new, if they aren't, ask for a refund and buy from someone else, you can't trust them. There should be at least slight tool marking (or imprints in the dirt/scale/rust) on all the nuts and bolts on the pan and housing, too...
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Feb 13, 2014 01:14
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Also there is no way in hell I would ever run that bellhousing, not without dye checking it to find the end of the crack, stop drilling it, then grinding out the crack and welding it back up. I broke a bellhousing in half WITHOUT it having damage to start from, and my motor made 175hp/235tq stock... 23 years and 250k miles ago. You don't want that bellhousing in your car.
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Feb 13, 2014 01:28
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I hope that Airtek isn't a misspelling of Airtex because gently caress those assholes they couldn't make a fuel pump if their lives depended on it. I'll run an unknown, untested junkyard fuel pump before I'll run an airtex.
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Apr 17, 2014 03:16
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I hate to rain on your parade but that isn't gonna bend without damaging things or using a lot of heat. You're going to poke a hole through the wall of the header instead of bending it. Plan on sectioning it and welding, or getting a torch setup and heating it cherry red and bending it. Probably the former, if you don't want it to wrinkle and fold. You can't move the whole engine like 1-2" to the driver side? Not ideal for weight/balance, but it might help a lot.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:54
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If they do, BMW and Audi are the places to look. I bet there's a 100mm banjo bolt somewhere on a BMW for some reason. Fuckers love em.
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May 21, 2014 01:07
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Jesus, I thought that was two seperate units  How did that get past design, design review, prototyping, testing, manufacturing, AND QA?
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May 21, 2014 16:09
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Bucephalus posted:Out-AMCing AMC. Impressive. You know a company is hard up when they are robbing AMC's production line for parts. (I guess that really only goes for IH and Bricklin, now that I think about it. At least they went for the good poo poo.)
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May 21, 2014 16:25
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1/4" steel IS a joke to drill through - you're using a drill press, right? A decent drill press, slow enough feed rate, enough cutting oil, and a regular old 5 dollar black oxide HSS bit will go through a couple feet of 1/4" steel plate pieces before it even seems dull. There's an easy way to solve the two garage problem, too, unless those studs are weight bearing  Glad to see the engine and headers fit better now, clearance for stuff like that is always a bastard. I'm not really sure what to do about the radius arm, if you move one, you're going to want to move both or you'll end up with funky nonsymmetrical suspension.
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Jun 4, 2014 01:47
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BoostCreep posted:What? I wish. I'm using an angle grinder and hand drill for everything. I don't have access to big boy toys. What?! You're fabricating stuff without a drill press? $130 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-10-in-Drill-Press-DP102L/100490179 I swore off ever recommending Ryobi tools to anyone ever again after my experience with their one+ cordless warranty but I'm gonna break my own rule on this one. I've been using that drill press to do things it was never intended for (running holesaws up to 2.5" diameter through steel plate at 540rpm, more chattering than drilling) for several years now and it lives on my freakin porch. It still hasn't died. I think they might have taken everything they should have put into my cordless angle grinder that failed and put it into this silly little drill press. I've drilled through over 12 inches of steel plate with a 1" holesaw alone using that drill press, that isn't even including the hundreds of smaller twist-drill holes or the dozens of 2.5" holes through 1/4" plate. It won't get you there fast if you're using a holesaw incorrectly but you will still get there. And it'll run a twist drill all day if properly used.
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Jun 4, 2014 02:54
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Agreed, if there's slag, you drag. That's how I learned. And I agree those welds are doomed to failure. They look about like my first fluxcore welds back in '09, honestly. Hell, tack it up how you want it put together and mail it to me and I'll blow some boogers on it, it might not be quite as pretty as UF's welding but it'll be reasonably nice looking and will NOT break. I even have my 230A Snapon MIG welder working now, so you won't have to clean flux off. Here's what a couple years of practice does, that's 100 amps, .035 fluxcore on 1/4" wall tube and 3/16" spring perch stock: 
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Aug 4, 2014 21:22
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You could TIG it up and face mill the whole thing again but it will probably warp and/or look different at that spot.
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Dec 25, 2014 22:08
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I just realized there was something I completely forgot in the engine mount welding discussion. Electrode polarity. MIG and fluxcore use opposite polarities, your welds will come out like poo poo with the wrong one. Fluxcore you should be running DCEN, MIG is DCEP. I knew this academicaly, but completely forgot it the first time I ran fluxcore through my MIG, and the welds came out horribly because of it
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Jan 1, 2015 19:54
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Those ECUs are designed to be in an engine bay, marginally protected from direct water spray by the plastic inner fenders of a truck. As long as the connectors aren't facing straight up, it should be fine - at worst, you need to make sure the connectors face down so water drains naturally away from them, I can't remember if factory Vortec ECU placement has the connectors to the side or the bottom. Side or bottom is probably fine. Looking good - think you'll have it done by summer at this point?
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Mar 31, 2015 01:55
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 09:28 |
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They should also be easy to find, just go to the junkyard and find any GM V8 equipped vehicle someone has bought the engine from. Pick the cover up off the ground, it's probably within 10 feet of the engine bay, and go pay $5 for it.
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Apr 14, 2015 00:29
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