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That's my bet too. It is after all the only reason they put the bolt in the part in the first place.
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Apr 10, 2023 22:47
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 Finally have it back together and fully recharged. Had to buy a side-tap for one of the cans of 1234yf, the crimp at the top wasn't formed properly and the threads are too far away from the valve inside the top to allow a regular can tap to open it. Assembly overall was much easier than removal; this is clearly a truck built to be thrown together on the assembly line and never touched again.
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May 6, 2023 02:56
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Hmmm... that brake noise... nah it can go a while, it's just the wear indicator, I'll do a pad slap soon. (months pass) That vibration is new.  Left to right on pads: worst of old front pad, passenger rear inboard pad, driver's rear inboard pad. Sitting on the trashed inboard face of the driver's rear rotor. New rotors and new Raybestos EHT3 pads and this thing loving stops now.
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Jul 21, 2023 08:27
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The newest, lowest mileage vehicle I own is supposed to be the one that needs the least maintenance, right? Well, I guess technically the Kubota fits that bill  Did an oil change on the Canyon the other day and noticed a bunch of schmoo all over the upper driver's side of the engine bay. It was black as hell so I was worried it was somehow engine oil, but there were absolutely no signs of an engine oil leak. Just poo poo getting flung by the belt:  These do have an overrunning alternator disconnect pulley that's known to leak, especially when it's hot, so I took a chance and popped the cover off (after ordering a replacement because I couldn't think of any other cause):  Yup. But absolutely no direct signs of leakage until I pulled the dust cover off. I was able to get the pulley replaced without removing anything other than the charge pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body. Annoyingly, the toolkit O'Reilly rents to do this job has the correct spline drive to grab the pulley... but only an 8mm hex to grab the alternator shaft. GM, being very GM, decided that this alternator pulley thread and the hex to hold the shaft still, needed to be in fractional inches. So it's a tight 5/16, just barely too small for the 8mm hex that comes in the kit to grab. Sacrificed a cheap Harbor Freight wrench and got the job done. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 29, 2023 |
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Aug 1, 2023 05:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:The newest, lowest mileage vehicle I own is supposed to be the one that needs the least maintenance, right? hmm im doing the math on this and i don't think that's right for me that's the jeep, so it will never be true as long as that remains the case, lmao
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Aug 1, 2023 07:38
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Huh, the overrun is oil filled on GM alternators? Ford's wasn't on the Crown Vic, but they failed in 1 of 2 ways.. or both. Most common was they'd just lock up, and you'd get a belt chirp (or it'd throw the belt if it was stretched out enough) on a high RPM upshift. The other way is they start slipping and making a hell of a racket. Mine did the first, then eventually the second.
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Aug 3, 2023 11:14
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randomidiot posted:Huh, the overrun is oil filled on GM alternators? At least on the diesel Canyoneros, yeah. Not my picture but apparently if you ignore it long enough it does this:  This does give me a couple datapoints, though. When I had the belt off to do the A/C compressor, I noticed that if I grabbed the alternator pulley, gave it a good twist, and then tried to stop it, the rotor in the alternator would keep spinning for a second or two. I've never had the belt off of an alternator like this before so I didn't think anything of it. The replacement pulley is so tight that I can't induce any slip by hand.
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Aug 3, 2023 23:17
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It's supposed to keep spinning briefly. At least on the Ford version.
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Aug 4, 2023 02:00
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So I'm driving around in the Jeep yesterday running some errands and making a note of how many vehicles were broken down in the midst of another 117-degree heat wave. Numerous flat tires, including one guy who had a tire delaminating right in front of me as he tried to merge through three lanes of traffic to get to the shoulder. As I approached home I got a few distinct whiffs of raw fuel so I decided to pop the hood and see if I had a fuel leak. I didn't find one, but I did find this.   And about five minutes later, after my wife got home, it had turned into this.  That hose was new four years ago when I bought the Jeep and replaced the entire cooling system because the radiator was leaking. I'm annoyed, but drat glad it happened in the most convenient way possible. New hoses on order but the list of poo poo the TJ needs has grown to the point where I'm just waiting for the weather to get mildly better so I can get caught up - and I still forgot some poo poo. New radiator and heater hoses Fix power steering cooler leak Install new front driveshaft Hammer on exhaust until new crossmember fits Install engine skid plate Figure out the loving fuel leak and maybe the evap code while I'm at it Figure out why the air compressor isn't kicking on Replace service valves / recharge AC Fluid changes and general cleaning/maintenance IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Aug 30, 2023 |
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Aug 29, 2023 20:45
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Remind me why I like Jeeps again? Fixed the radiator hoses. Drove it today, noticed a new wet spot on the ground after pulling out of the driveway. Smelled a whiff of coolant, so after I got back I parked it for the day. Eight+ hours later with the Jeep stone-cold, I turned the key on so that the blower motor would kick on. Sure enough, the fan is blowing antifreeze out of the HVAC drain.  and another $150 flies away to Summit for a new heater core, evap core, and A/C service kit since I'm probably going to have the system open for long enough to justify a new receiver/dryer.
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Sep 25, 2023 05:02
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Ouch.
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Sep 25, 2023 11:35
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Suburban Dad posted:Ouch.
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Sep 25, 2023 12:20
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EVERYWHERE 
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Yeah that sounds about right, I had to replace my 98s heater core in late 2013 and it had been leaking since late 2010 at least. I think 21 years is a pretty good run for a heater core TBH.
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Sep 26, 2023 06:43
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It's not a bad run and yet I also suspect it's the victim of the non-maintenance this thing's cooling system got before I bought it. I've pulled a lot of brown out of it. Slow-rolling the work because life / because I can / because I need to clean the garage enough to do more work. So I drained fluids from the TJ and started cleaning the garage. Let's take a trip down memory lane: IOwnCalculus posted:Turning the Torx bolt at the center just spins the compressor, which doesn't feel too awful. But I don't actually have any way of holding the compressor still to get the trashed pulley and clutch off. There's some very real wobble to the pulley, and that belt is loving smoked. The solution to this was "let the compressor sit outside in the half inch of rain we got this summer" and now it's locked up solid. Unbolted easily, and the first circlip came out trivially as well.  The belt-driven part of the clutch. The bearing in here was surprisingly not completely trashed, though it wasn't good either. I couldn't replicate the axial play without it mounted.  The center part of the clutch where it connects to the compressor. I'm... 99% sure there were supposed to be splines here   The compressor with the clutch off. Yeah, you can feel the barest remnants of splines on the shaft, At this point the snap rings for the compressor bearing and the coil both refused to cooperate. But my curiosity has been satisfied - the whole compressor did need to be replaced and I'm drat glad "replace the clutch only" was never an option thanks to lack of parts.
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Oct 2, 2023 04:02
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I didn't realize it's been a solid two months since I updated this. First off, can confirm that WTFBEES' Volvo is cool as gently caress and is driven by a rad dude. I wish mine had been this good:  Second, have been very slowly working on the TJ but have not apparently taken a single drat photo the entire time. The grille is off, the entire cooling stack is out, the A/C compressor and power steering pump are off, the engine mounts have been replaced (with a motor mount lift as well), the front driveshaft has finally been reinstalled, and now the higher-clearance Barnes transfer case skid / crossmember clears without fouling the exhaust too much. It still touches but if it vibrates badly I'll just hammer the gently caress out of the muffler. Still need to actually pull the interior apart to get the HVAC box out. The one repair I do have a photo of... the other day the Canyon's dash went all christmas-tree on me. Code scan:  LF wheel sensor open circuit. Just to make sure, I ran live data on it, and never saw LF move off of 0MPH:  Ordered a new sensor for $26 shipped because it was cheap enough I didn't even want to jack it up to diagnose it without having a spare on hand. Which was a good call:  Cleanly severed. No idea how or why. Current best guess is "rodent?" and if it happens again I'll invest in Honda's spicy electrical tape.
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Dec 3, 2023 03:24
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Hey I know that car! Great meeting you today and thanks for the heads up on the show! Hit me up if you ever need another set of hands for whatever. My mechanic skills are best described as "moral support" level, but I'm happy to provide that much
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Dec 3, 2023 04:50
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The next day: Slightly more than a month later, with a few other purchases, some AISS swag, and a lot of cleaning/reorganization:  This thing is loving huge but it's sturdy as gently caress and even though this replaced two of my old toolboxes, I still have at least one or two completely empty drawers. The only downside is it is quite deep, so I might eventually move it up on the ledge at the front of the garage where my workbench is today. This thing is stronger than my workbench anyway. Jeep Status:  Still in pieces. I have new engine mounts installed, the Barnes "stock compatible" skid plate installed, and new power steering hoses half-in. Today I finally got back to work on it and started tearing the dash out. The last major thing to come out before the bulk of the dash starts getting removed is the steering column. One of the wiring harness connectors (ignition switch) came off properly, one came off with just the broken red safety tab (multifunction switch), and one set of connectors completely loving shattered the clips they plug into - the clockspring. I don't feel like taking "what if the connector comes loose" chances with my airbag, and the plastic clips that hold the clockspring in place also broke at the same time. It's just brittle as gently caress. So got one of those on order so I have it ready to put on in a few days.
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Jan 15, 2024 05:44
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Jeep Status: In even more pieces This is where I'm probably stopping for the night since at this point, my hands were sore from cracked skin and a few cuts on the sheetmetal in the dash assembly. Very much like working in a cheap ATX case of the same vintage. I think the only thing keeping the dash "attached" at this point are a few wiring harness connectors that I ran out of patience to try and undo correctly at that particular moment, and I don't want to break any more plastic than I already have. gently caress I hate hate hate hate those red locking tabs. There's also my own wiring for the radios / locker / air compressor that I have to contend with and will probably redo some of now that I have wide open access to it all.
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Jan 16, 2024 01:35
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I actually love those locking tabs. You aren't trying to pull every one all the way out, are you? They only gotta come out to the first click usually.
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Jan 16, 2024 02:57
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Yeah, only trying to get to the first detent. About half of them are shattering before they move at all, because everything in this Jeep is coated in a fine layer of dust and it's jammed between every mating surface of every connector.
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Jan 16, 2024 06:35
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Oh yeah, dirt will do it the first time you touch em... And I forgot you get Arizona nuclear blasted plastics to play with not the stuff that never sees the sun or real heat up here.
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Jan 16, 2024 08:03
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Yup, it's all brittle. Still not as brittle as Volvo 240 interior pieces, but close. Finally managed to undo enough wiring connectors to free the dash:   I'm going to fix some of my own wiring sins set all of the aftermarket wiring up to be properly split into body and dash harnesses with connectors, since I'll never have better access to do it than now. Also re-wrap a lot of harnesses where the sheathing has just plain disintegrated, and probably repair a few more spots left over from the garbage alarm that the original owner installed.
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Jan 19, 2024 02:21
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 Look at all this room for activities!  This dusty piece of poo poo - at least, one of the cores within - is the reason the Jeep has been parked up so loving long.  That feels slightly better. Now I can sit and work on each of the pieces that needs repair / rewiring / cleaning individually, despite the fact that we're getting rain now and expected to get an inch or so across the next two days.
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Jan 21, 2024 21:50
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What the hell, more work done tonight. Cleared off the workbench to get this thing apart. Not pictured: unscrewing approximately eleven million 8mm screws, unclipping two vacuum actuators, peeling and cutting foam away until the two halves actually separated. Heater core out first:  Yup, failed at the endcap from the look of things. It only actually leaks under pressure, too.  This, however, I wasn't expecting. That's the evap core and a lot of it is just plain blocked up with debris. I've already got a replacement on hand and now I'm even more glad I do.  Bottom half of the airbox, dusty as hell with some schmoo still left in the bottom. One piece of which caught my eye right after taking this photo...  Someone lost that earring a long time ago. I also unwrapped and inspected the HVAC harness. Way back when I bought this thing, the only service record of any kind I had was for a shop putting in a new blower motor and a new pigtail for said motor. Actually looking at it, either they replaced the whole HVAC harness with a junkyard part, or (what I believe happened) they only actually fixed a single splice instead of actually putting a new pigtail on. The other wire has no damage and no signs of repair anywhere along its length. Unlike the car alarm install this repair was done with a glue-lined heat-shrink crimp, so I'm not doing anything to the HVAC harness other than rewrapping it in fresh tape. Next up is a lot of cleaning and a little bit of greasing on all of the pivot points. But, I've finally hit "maximum disassembly" for this project!  I probably need to find some fairly thick foam to replace much of it on the box as what's there is very brittle. In particular, the chunk that goes around the evap/heater core lines and gets squished between the HVAC box and the firewall - there was absolutely no give left to it, and no hope of getting it off in one or even two pieces.The other thing I've had in the back of my head on this is modifications for future serviceability. The Car Wizard on Youtube claims that he was flummoxed by a customer request to cut the HVAC box and firewall to make the heater core serviceable from the engine bay. Given that by all accounts the replacement heater cores are much shorter lived than the original Mopar piece, I'm very tempted to do the same.
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Jan 22, 2024 07:13
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It's definitely not a bad idea. If you destroyed the gasket that connects the HVAC box to the firewall plan on buying a new one. I tried to half rear end it on mine in 2013 using multiple layers of weatherstripping foam from home depot. It worked for HVAC but apparently not for water because my passenger floor was always a swimming pool if I parked wrong in the rain after that. I ended up stabbing a hole in the floor board with a pickaxe because it was a beater that I fully expected to scrap soon at that point. The gasket is expensive... But less expensive than the tools and parts I had ruined by water before I figured out what was going on.
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Jan 22, 2024 08:21
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If you've got a source for it I'm all ears, apparently the foam is the same as used on the late XJ (4874072AB, or 5073174AA with other seals) and it's NLA. Also in doing this job I learned that my TJ actually does have a cowl drain, and it was completely plugged up with debris. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jan 22, 2024 |
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Jan 22, 2024 15:46
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Morris 4x4 used to have them but they were like 50 bucks and they got bought out by some other company that enshittified their product list and website. I can't find anywhere else with that part number sadly. I wonder what sendcutsend has for closed cell foam gasket materials...
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Jan 22, 2024 16:34
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Forgot about those guys, I think I ordered some stuff from them when I was dealing with the transfer case rebuild. Looks like they're totally dead now. Also discovered that sometime in the last two months, 4WheelParts sold off their Arizona stores. I literally picked up some headlight rings from them at the end of October, now they have no presence here and the stores are labeled as "Total Offroad and More", with no online inventory of any kind. Sucks because with free in-store pickup that would've been $10 cheaper than anyone else to buy new shifter boots.
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Jan 22, 2024 18:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Forgot about those guys, I think I ordered some stuff from them when I was dealing with the transfer case rebuild. Looks like they're totally dead now. Huh, I'm like 5 minutes from the Chandler location and hadn't even noticed. Good to know.
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Jan 22, 2024 20:15
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I wonder if they've even changed the signage yet. I only figured it out when it wouldn't let me do store pickup and kept saying there were no stores within 50 miles. Smaller projects done while it's pissing down rain outside last night.  This is the shift detent for the transfer case shifter. As shown, 2HI is the narrow end of the detent, and what would normally be 4LO is the wide part at the bottom. Despite the fact that the NP231 has very positive detents, for some reason Jeep decided you needed an extra bumpout to prevent you from skipping past 4HI, and a narrow gate at the front for 2HI. This is annoying enough, but add the 2LO kit to the case and it moves things around just enough that these detents suck. And again, they really aren't necessary. That lever is short enough and out of the way enough that it's not getting bumped, and even if it did, you have to move it with authority to get it to do anything. The WJ's shifter didn't have any real detents in the shifter itself either, relying just on the transfer case.  A few minutes with a die grinder and a carbide burr and the detents are gone - along with all of the various sharp points from the lovely manufacturing process. I also cleaned it up with a scotchbrite disc after this, but it's still too rainy to paint so that'll wait for either late today or tomorrow.  And then I rewrapped most of the dash harness. The 22-year-old tape was completely brittle, to the point where the easiest way to remove it was squeezing it so it would crumble. Wherever they used that plastic non-adhesive wrap actually stood up pretty well. I have one wiring repair to make where the alarm installer used a T-tap (yellow wire on the red plug) and I'm going to re-do the stereo installer's crimps with inline crimps instead, but I ran out of time last night (and couldn't find my wire stripper). The foam tape in the background is what I'm going to use to replace some of the disintegrating foam in the HVAC box. That's 2" wide and 1/8" thick, I have some narrower and thicker sizes getting delivered this week.
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Jan 23, 2024 18:21
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Been chipping away at all of it. Bunch of rewiring done in the Jeep but since I've been wrapping up at night, a bunch of black looms on a black dash lit by flash isn't going to look like anything. I did get the HVAC box back together with new cores and lots of new foam. The foam tape solution looks like rear end but should do the job of keeping the outside mostly outside (it's still a TJ, after all).  Tomorrow, if I can find the vacuum line that connects at the firewall, I'm going to heave this back into the Jeep and get it mounted up. Then I just need to actually scrub down the dash and every other interior piece I removed as I put them all back in.
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Jan 28, 2024 07:49
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I'm getting flashbacks of me doing almost exactly that with the foam tape and how much it didn't do the job. I'd strongly recommend blooping some rtv in the seams of all the layers except the last and letting it cure, then do the same on the last layer right on any inaccessible spots right before putting it in and do the accessible spots after install.
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Jan 29, 2024 08:04
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kastein posted:I'm getting flashbacks of me doing almost exactly that with the foam tape and how much it didn't do the job. I'd strongly recommend blooping some rtv in the seams of all the layers except the last and letting it cure, then do the same on the last layer right on any inaccessible spots right before putting it in and do the accessible spots after install. I might do the "RTV the accessible spots" later if this becomes a problem. That's only a single layer of foam tape, though - 1" W x 3/4" thick. The spot where this comes through the engine bay is extremely easy to access. Hmm. Though now that I think about it, I wonder if I could just sandwich a layer of some form of thin plastic between the foam and the firewall... but that would mean the box coming back out so  Photos of progress from the weekend: Relocated the Dakota Digital SGI-5E from "zip tied onto the passenger AC duct" to "screwed onto the inside of the shifter console". I also redid the wiring with ferrules for the terminal block, since I have those now.  Rewrapped the fuse box harness, cleaned up and consolidated my wiring so that I only need one add-a-fuse tap instead of three. I also cut-and-spliced my clutch safety switch relay (seen ziptied) instead of relying on 1/8" terminals stuck where the fuse would go.  Made a sub-harness for the "my ignition switch sucks so I disabled the ACC position" relay and mounted the relay next to the amp relay. Also mounted the new dashcam hardwire kit and have already cleaned up the wiring considerably from what's shown here.  HVAC box in. Stopped at this point because I needed new push nuts for the windshield vent (which I have now).  Still to be done: Replace both gaskets on the transmission shifter (upper one is torn) Reinstall the transfer case shifter with the modified bracket, reinstall transmission shifter plate Install new inner shift boot for the transmission shifter (one I put on five years ago is already smoked) Finish wiring dashcam hardwire kit Reinstall dash and all plastics, cleaning all the while Reinstall everything in the dash (radio, HVAC controls, aux switches) Create a wiring harness for aux switches so I don't have to remember where nine different 1/4" spade connectors go every time I have to do anything with it Reinstall steering column Install new clockspring, reinstall steering wheel More wiring harness repairs / reroutes underhood Reinstall the cowl drain And then after all of that I get to reinstall everything I took off while dealing with engine bay leaks and the motor mounts - AC compressor, power steering pump, the entire cooling stack, grille - torque check everything, and refill the transfer case. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 30, 2024 07:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:Replace both gaskets on the transmission shifter (upper one is torn) One attempted, one completed, and one in progress, all in that order.  Dash is in and held in by the six bolts on the ends - need to put the rest of the nuts on, but before I fully button it up I'm probably going to hook a battery up and test what I can without the engine running. Dashcam hardwire kit is fully installed, piggybacked off of the wiring to the radio. The shifter gaskets, on the other hand...  Shifter comes out easily enough, but apart?  That's a different story, unfortunately. That thin silver ring is supposed to have M6x1.0 threads on the inside. There's one on each side of the shifter. You put a nut on a bolt, thread the bolt all the way into those threads, and then use the nut to pull out on the threads so that it releases the internal snap ring. As can be seen by the rotational scuff marks I'm not the first person who has been here, and whatever threads were there were already damaged before I started. They gave up the ghost on the first pull. The metal is also so thin that i can't reasonably tap it to the next size up and try again. I did come across a poster on a TJ forum who had recently complained of the same issue. Their solution? Put together another shifter out of spare parts. All this for the rubber cover in the middle of the assembly that can't be installed any other way. The isolator on the shift lever is way too large to pass the cover undamaged, and there are spring washers and a top plate trapped beneath the cover that are nearly the size of the cover itself. I'm going to sleep on it but I'm probably going to solve this with more spending instead of trying any number of destructive methods to separate these parts.
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Feb 2, 2024 05:19
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Aren't those just amazing engineering? They actually made that even worse on yours which is impressive because the square peg AX15 one is hateful enough. They must have hired some Ford M5OD engineers to redesign it for the nv3550 based on the goofy screw pull setup, that's kind of like how you remove the shifter from an M5OD by taking the nut off and putting it on the other side and tightening the gently caress out of it until it galls some surfaces up and forces the thing apart.
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Feb 2, 2024 10:11
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A change of pace because it's due for emissions and has a CEL set Replacing the upstream NOX sensor because of a P11DB code "NOX Sensor Current Performance", and also the intake pipe from the intercooler outlet to the throttle body inlet because it's started to leak.  Old sensor next to new sensor. No blatant carbon fouling or anything, just dead. Looks like GM changed vendors as the old one is a Continental, new one is Vitesco. Same deal as the particulate sensor I replaced in the past, the sensor and its module are combined.  This was the hardest part of the job. The open threaded bung is where the sensor goes and that's easy to access with an O2 sensor socket (and the nut spins freely instead of being bonded to the sensor, so the whole wiring harness isn't whipping around while you do the job). The problem is that little crescent-shaped bit of open space down on the frame is where you have to snake the sensor module through. Took a few tries while basically trying to touch my own toes through the engine bay, but this job overall is still just two 10mm bolts, the sensor itself, and cutting the zip tie that pinned the harness to the frame. The intercooler-engine hose took just as long because the drat thing is almost entirely rigid and there's no real give anywhere in the system. Unfortunately, while the P11DB code is fixed, I've still got P24A5 as confirmed (and setting the CEL again), along with a pending P2457. P24A5 is "EGR cooler bypass stuck', P2457 is "EGR cooler performance". Which probably means ripping the EGR cooler out and cleaning everything and that means ripping a whole bunch of poo poo off the driver's side of the engine again. Goddamnit.
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Feb 3, 2024 21:18
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Oof. If there's any service info that could be helpful, send a PM.
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Feb 3, 2024 23:05
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im actually somewhat surprised that arizona cares about emissions compliance. i thought it was one of the "do what you want, yeehaw" states.
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Feb 4, 2024 02:15
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Suburban Dad posted:Oof. If there's any service info that could be helpful, send a PM. I've got access to Chilton Library and it sure looks like a FSM to me, but P24A5 is pretty straightforward. Check to make sure a list of other DTCs aren't already set (they aren't), then a few tests to verify vacuum exists / is being controlled at the bypass valve, and then verify whether the linkage extends/retracts when commanded. I'm going to change the order around a bit and start with commanding the bypass valve and seeing if actuates. If it does, then that goes straight to cleaning the EGR cooler and EGR manifold. If it doesn't, then I can chase down whether it's a vacuum issue or if the valve is stuck. P2457 is even simpler, mostly down to making sure the cooling system is up to snuff, then checking the EGR cooler bypass (given the P24A5 to go with it, that seems very likely) and if all that fails, clean or replace the EGR cooler. I'm going to see what I can get away with not removing but a lot of what the FSM says has to come off, is stuff I took off last year when replacing the compressor.  Raluek posted:im actually somewhat surprised that arizona cares about emissions compliance. i thought it was one of the "do what you want, yeehaw" states. I always 'joke' that Arizona is the concept of FYGM, granted statehood... but we love federal highway money. On one hand, it's "just" the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas. On the other, that's nearly six million of the seven million people that live in AZ. We're also, to my knowledge, the only state that still enforces emissions testing all the way back to model year 1967. The only reason the C10 and Opel don't have to go through emissions is the classic insurance exemption that was added 20 years ago. If I had them on regular insurance they'd need an idle/loaded dyno test every year. The air quality here keeps bouncing off of "barely breathable" so the feds almost never sign off on reductions in emissions controls. For extra annoyance, because it's a diesel, the Canyon is subject to annual testing, not the every-two-year testing that every other OBD2 vehicle gets. AZ emissions also sucks for engine swaps in an OBD2 chassis, because there are no documented policies / procedures like CA has. They absolutely will not allow any swap where the VIN in the computer doesn't match the VIN on the chassis, with no process to account for this. I'd love to put a Vortec 4200 in the TJ but only the 2008 and 09 4200s share an LSx PCM that can easily be modified to report a non-GM VIN. Nobody's solved that for the vastly more common 02-07 4200s. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Feb 4, 2024 |
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Feb 4, 2024 06:26
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:01 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I always 'joke' that Arizona is the concept of FYGM, granted statehood... but we love federal highway money. On one hand, it's "just" the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas. On the other, that's nearly six million of the seven million people that live in AZ. We're also, to my knowledge, the only state that still enforces emissions testing all the way back to model year 1967. The only reason the C10 and Opel don't have to go through emissions is the classic insurance exemption that was added 20 years ago. If I had them on regular insurance they'd need an idle/loaded dyno test every year. The air quality here keeps bouncing off of "barely breathable" so the feds almost never sign off on reductions in emissions controls. okay, i am even more surprised that it's stricter than california. i thought we were the trend-setters with these sorts of restrictions, and other states kind of copied our requirements if they wanted to have similar. i wouldn't have expected arizona to clamp down even harder. three of my four vehicles, legal in CA, would not be in AZ, sounds like. wild. i guess the populated parts are a lot denser than what i imagine when i think of the desert trails, so that probably accounts for the majority of the dissonance.
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Feb 4, 2024 07:27
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