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So the shop thinks the noise is a bent driver's side axle shaft. I'm not 100% convinced but the shaft is definitely bent (I thought I saw it while trying to chase the noise but I think my brain said "nope, can't be that, can't be bent it just can't be" and I didn't chase it further). Because broken parts = upgrade time, I'm having them install chromoly shafts and C-clip eliminators. Beyond that? Been too mindnumbingly hot to work on the other projects, especially while I'm still getting into the swing of things on the maintenance required around the new house. Old house is sold so that's off my plate. I'm considering very, very bad ideas on the C10 AR5 transmission, giant loving cam, switching from the GM ECM/harness to a Holley Terminator X, maybe a Torqstorm if I really feel like lighting money on fire.
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Jun 27, 2021 07:35
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Which one(s) are the bad ideas?
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Jul 2, 2021 15:36
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Advent Horizon posted:Which one(s) are the bad ideas?  Anti-archives update. Shop would appear to be correct on the TJ because after installing the Yukon Super 88 kit, there's no more noise. I would have sworn up and down that it was a pinion bearing noise - once I was able to replicate it with the rear in the air and unloaded, it sounded for all the world like it was coming from the center of the pumpkin. Some boring house updates - old house sold with no hiccups of any sort last month. Tackling little projects here and there around the new place now that we're well past "this had to be done to move in". For example, this hose cock heh was leaky as hell, and also completely frozen to the threaded fitting it was on, and also completely frozen to the worn out hose attached to it.  So the other day I attempted my first ever soldered pipe joints by cutting this stub off below where the PO had kinked it, using a union to attach a new piece of 1/2" copper pipe, and then soldering a 1/2" NPT male to the end of the pipe. Used a quarter-turn ball valve instead of another tap, a 1/2" NPT to garden hose thread adapter, and hooked it up to a shiny new hose reel.  Leak free on the first attempt and I only burned myself once. We've also had some crazy goddamn wind and rain lately. This was the morning of the fourth, showing how high the water had been in the driveway:  Pardon my phone and Youtube both butchering the low light performance, but this is about a week later, on the second night in a row that we had 40MPH wind with gusts of 60MPH+: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Y9oGWaOlgo The not-so-standing water at 10s in the video is where the trash can was in the photo. There's a mud pit in the arena that's had so much standing water for so long that it's turning loving green. Still a good chance of significant rain and wind tomorrow before things maybe calm down for a little bit. I'll take it over the complete dry fart of a monsoon of last year, but maybe the rest of Phoenix could use some water?
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Jul 14, 2021 07:13
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Unplanned vehicular content: PRP Daily Driver popped up on CL for half price in what might as well be new condition. Turns out to be a guy I've done a few runs with, he bought the seat secondhand from someone else just to test the fit in his TJ and then ordered some built to colors he wanted. At $200 off, I'm more than happy with this gray/red combo. Way more comfortable than the stock seat with collapsing / missing foam. The closest thing to an issue with it is that the way it lines up, it seems like it's a bit too close to the center. I might have to take it apart a bit and see if I can get the adapter brackets to scooch over some, and maybe shim the back up while I'm at it. It works as it is, but you have to put some decent force into making the seat slide back because it's jamming the seatbelt firmly into the center console. Once I get this fully sorted I'll probably end up ordering a passenger seat to match. Plus side is that the way it sits, I no longer have any need/desire for the "big boy" brackets that set the whole mechanism 4" back. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 04:54
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Just Empty Every Pocket. Fucker death wobbled on me for the first time tonight. Was only doing 30-35 when it happened so it was easy to deal with. Suspects, in the range of least to most likely: Steering linkage: about a year old with hardly any miles on it. But it's parts-store ZJ parts so it's not a zero chance. Steering stabilizer: not running one, but by all accounts it's not strictly necessary. I had thrown a Moog on it when I did the steering work but the one I got must have been defective because the steering effort with it installed was crazy high and it was giving me memory steer issues. Ball joints: Probably original which makes them ~200k miles old, but when I had the front axle stripped down to the knuckles I couldn't find anything actually worrisome. Bushings: Original owner installed polyurethane bushings in every control arm / joint. If it's this then I'll probably light some more money on fire and go for adjustable control arms with Johnny Joints or something similar. I have no records from that owner and I know the person I bought it from didn't do it, so this makes them at newest probably four years old and possibly much older. I also don't know why the gently caress you'd use poly joints on a Jeep you actually take off road.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:56
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Haven't begun to trace down the death wobble beyond a visual inspection - nothing seems to be moving that shouldn't be. So I'm going to just disassemble the front suspension and see what's what, but that's going to wait until a) it's not a million degrees out every day and b) my tractor shows up so I can stop using the Jeep to pull the chain drag. Speaking of the latter, like a loving idiot I didn't pay attention to how much time I was spending with the steering at/near full lock while dragging the arena, and absolutely smoked the power steering fluid. Also got hot enough to make some of the seals on the (original?) pump very unhappy. So it's got a new pump, and a new power steering cooler. The cooler bracket was supposed to show up painted, but instead it arrived with some form of very shiny plating. Bright reflective silver isn't something I wanted to have right behind the grille. I first tried a can of matte black that I used on the WJ's sliders forever ago, but I didn't like how it came out and I think even with all the shaking, sitting on the shelf for literal years was not good for it. Wife suggested I go a bit louder on paint.  Ace "Gloss Bright Teal". I think I might end up painting the grille, hood, and cowl to match, honestly.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:02
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No progress on any sort of actual projects on account of the weather continuing to be absolute rear end, but my wife did get a check engine light on the Canyon for the first time. Just past 50k miles, code P1478, diesel particulate sensor high voltage. The sensor itself also includes a small electronic module attached to it:  Looks like all of the communication between that module and the rest of the car is via CAN bus (of course):  So that tells me the only way you can get a "high voltage" code instead of a "lost communication" code would be either a dead sensor, or somehow a wiring fault with that short jump from the module to the actual sensor. Seeing as that wiring is fixed in place on a crossmember, I'm going to go with a dead sensor. Looks like Amazon can have one to me tomorrow.
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Aug 16, 2021 18:01
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What's the year? I can try to look up the trouble tree for that code. E: 2016-18 there's a TSB for that code. If yours is newer though... 1. Ignition On. Verify no other DTCs are set ⇒ If any other DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle ⇓ If no other DTCs are set 2. Verify DTC P1474, P1475, P1476, P1477, P1478, P1479, P147B, or P1488 is not set. ⇒ If the DTC sets Replace the B136 Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor. ⇓ If the DTC does not set 3. All OK.  If there's a code, replace sensor. Otherwise, ok!
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 18:33
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Mine is an '18 but I had it to the dealership in 2020 for the recall, so it should already have newer-than-that software installed. It looks like it's not too bad to replace, similar to an O2 sensor except of course they couldn't just use the same external hex as an O2 sensor so your O2 sensor socket won't fit.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:49
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If you need any service info, lemme know. Should be fairly straightforward as you said though.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:18
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Check if you're under warranty on that still. As I recall the clean air act legally requires manufacturer warranties to cover all major emissions equipment up to 80k miles or some number of years, whichever comes first, and I'm reasonably certain it applies to light diesel vehicles. The dealer might give you the runaround and try to claim that's not covered, but it's pretty clearly emissions equipment and I bet the AZ AG and/or DEP would be happy to hear about the dealer trying to weasel out of legally required coverage. Dpf sensors aren't explicitly listed here but it does say "if your state requires you fix it", which Arizona does right? https://www.epa.gov/transportation-air-pollution-and-climate-change/frequent-questions-related-transportation-air
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Aug 17, 2021 06:46
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In theory? Seems like it should be covered. But the few (and incredibly lovely) threads on this failure have people saying they couldn't get it covered outside of the bumper to bumper warranty. I can probably get the job done in less time than it'd take to drive to the dealer and back.
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Aug 17, 2021 14:38
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Confirmed, that was quicker than even just driving one way to the dealer. New sensor and sensor box. I blame ze Germans.  Work area. Didn't even need to jack the truck up. Old sensor box attached to frame on left side, wire over the crossmember and into the exhaust here:  Used a flare nut wrench and a
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Aug 18, 2021 06:31
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Photo of the inside of the sensor module for shits and grins - the lack of any electronic sharts tells me the fault was probably just in the sensor itself. Strangely while it is a pinned and clipped connection, it's set up such that there's no way to non-destructively unclip it. Otherwise there'd be no reason you couldn't replace just the sensor or the module instead of both. I have also corrected a grave mistake:  The BFGs, despite rebalancing, vibrated like a paint shaker. I don't know if it was the bargain-basement steel wheels or if the tires just won't hold a balance. I made multiple mistakes when I bought them - I didn't buy from Discount or Costco, and I didn't specify white letters out.  The Cooper Evolution M/T seems to be a relatively new tire without a whole lot of reviews, but what's there seems to be positive. It's also dirt cheap, especially for a tire not made by Milestar. Driving around on them you definitely won't mistake them for all-terrains (you definitely can hear these, while I've never heard a peep of true tire roar from any all-terrains I've owned). Given that Discount will absolutely make things right if they turn out to be hot garbage, I figured it's worth a shot. They're much smoother than the BFGs so far. Also for shits and grins, both of these are 33x12.5R15 tires on a 15x8 wheel:  The Cooper is a tiny bit taller and noticeably narrower. Haven't been assed to measure them out but I think I prefer the look. I desperately need to get on a trail to see how they perform. I've also bought a new  Kubota B2301-1 (I'm an idiot), with front-end loader, industrial tires, and a BB1248 box scraper. I also have a quick-hitch and arena grader on the way but no ETA. The only thing I didn't get with it was a skid steer quick attach bucket, but a) the delivery estimate for that was "maybe early 2022?" and b) I just don't see needing anything other than a bucket out front. I might pick up some clamp-on pallet forks. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 5, 2021 03:35
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We got a Kubota B series as our first hobbiest tractor (a bit bigger than the BX, but we had 80+ acres) and did get the quick attach front bucket. It was really nice to switch to a pallet fork, we usually ran with that instead of the bucket. It's was used rarely as a pallet fork and more as a mobile platform, engine hoist, or front weight while pulling the mower deck. I would suggest you get the pallet attachments and just leave them on unless you're planning on doing dirt work. Also, it can get expensive quick to have the dealer pick up your tractor for service. If you can find a cheap dual axle farm trailer I'd suggest it. Cool tractor dude, check for hydraulic leaks every time you fill it up.
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Sep 6, 2021 14:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Photo of the inside of the sensor module for shits and grins - the lack of any electronic sharts tells me the fault was probably just in the sensor itself. Strangely while it is a pinned and clipped connection, it's set up such that there's no way to non-destructively unclip it. Otherwise there'd be no reason you couldn't replace just the sensor or the module instead of both. quote:
Very nice. Dad had a BX as a smaller tractor and it ended up seeing more use than the bigger Deere. The BX is easy to use, maneuver, and work on. Good choice. Now get that paint of the lip of your bucket. 
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Sep 6, 2021 15:41
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Use this as an example of how the chip shortage hits automakers... at least 4 chips on that one module that barely has a function. I count 5, plus another 4 SOT-23s. Half the drat chip shortage is for little jellybean parts like SOT 23 voltage regulators and diodes. Kinda like the ceramic cap shortage years ago.
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Sep 6, 2021 18:33
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I'm an idiot, I don't know why I said BX when I bought a B  I actually had a BX2680 on order since the old house closed in June, but they still had no idea when it was going to get here, whereas from the time I inquired about a B series to having this here on hand was maybe a couple weeks. BX's are just too hot to handle, apparently.I'm slowly getting the hang of leveling things out with the box grader - the arena has two big low spots that love to collect rainwater and take a week to dry out even with pumping. But unlike the TJ pulling a chain drag, I can push dirt into those wet spots in reverse so the tires are still in dry dirt with traction instead of the wet slick poo poo.
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Sep 6, 2021 21:31
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I did a thing to two cars: Those cheap steel Harbor Freight wheel dollies work surprisingly well. Got the C10 shoved over a bit to make room, and the Opel up from halfway on the driveway/in the dirt to in the garage. In trying to push it with the rear on dollies and the front on the ground, it seems like the right front wheel on the Opel is binding. Not completely seized but it's definitely got much more resistance than the left front. Wonder if this explains why it's been near impossible to make it move under its own power without stalling.
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Oct 16, 2021 21:07
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No photos because by the time I thought about it, I had hands covered in antiseize and the Jeep was full on fighting me. Noticed more gas smell to go with the persistent P0442 so I decided to pull the tank and inspect things. No obvious signs but the seal underneath the fuel pressure regulator was looking lovely, as were the vent lines. Given that the fuel pump was a junkyard part of unknown age I decided to just replace the whole module, and ran new vent lines. The biggest hiccup here by far was the electrical connector which fought me tooth and nail to plug back in. Next time I have some reason to drop the tank, I'm replacing it with a DTP connector. Also threw the JKS adjustable rear trackbar on (the source of the antiseize). Jeep had an aftermarket trackbar on it already but it was a fixed length and not quite right for the new height after the 8.8/truss swap. Bushings were pretty worn too. That was thankfully mostly easy to install, aside from the fact that there's not enough room to get a deep socket on the axle-side nut, but a standard-depth socket can't reach around the bolt far enough.
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Oct 28, 2021 07:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:Noticed more gas smell to go with the persistent P0442 so I decided to pull the tank and inspect things. No obvious signs but the seal underneath the fuel pressure regulator was looking lovely, as were the vent lines. Given that the fuel pump was a junkyard part of unknown age I decided to just replace the whole module, and ran new vent lines. "Do you smell gas?" "Yeah." *stops* "Oh poo poo" Took the Jeep out on a trail today and while coming back, out of nowhere the high pressure line mostly-disconnected where it clips onto the hardline running up the framerail. I don't know how on earth I managed to "partially" connect that hose in a way where it didn't leak a drop for hours but then just starts spraying all over the driver's rear corner of the Jeep. I did come down hard on the back of the Jeep a few times but that was way before the line disconnected itself, and there's no way the fuel tank should have moved anyway. Luckily (as we were out of cell range), it clicked back in place and stayed put for the remainder of today's driving. I'm still going to loving yeet that quick-connect fuel line and use the same AN adapters / hose I used when plumbing the C10.
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Oct 31, 2021 04:45
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Those quick disconnect fuel lines are always anxiety-inducing. If not a bad connection, they break during assembly/disassembly. But you're functional now, I'd leave it and roll the dice.
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Oct 31, 2021 13:26
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I actually like those fittings, though I'm super careful to make sure they're seated right and check them frequently until I'm fairly certain they aren't going anywhere. I used a bunch of them building my new fuel lines for the Honcho LS swap.
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Oct 31, 2021 19:18
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The last of the parts showed up today to replace it with a length of -6 hose, no more plastic fittings involved. Probably going to tackle that tomorrow. Last night was oil change time on the Canyon. It dawned on me that I've never personally removed the wheels and gotten eyes on the brake pads, and it has a bit over 50k miles now so I popped off the fronts while draining the oil.   Never heard of lifetime brake pads before but at this rate they might outlast the timing belt. I'll check the rears on the next oil change. Unrelated to anything automotive but since we didn't want to have a repeat of last year's air conditioner fail-a-palooza, we decided to proactively replace the heat pump on the new house. It was the original ~11 SEER system so who knows how long it had left. Given that the fan motor's bearings were nearly seized when I replaced that last month, I doubt the compressor or inside fan motors were in much better shape. Decided to go all out on a 20 SEER inverter variable system that got installed today. It's insane how quiet it is, the loudest noise when standing next to the unit outside while it's running is the refrigerant flowing. Price definitely hurt but we had money earmarked for this from selling the old house.
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Nov 4, 2021 04:31
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Plus the cost savings from Arizona summers should be a nice bonus.
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Nov 4, 2021 12:25
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sharkytm posted:Plus the cost savings from Arizona summers should be a nice bonus. Yup. I'm actually slightly bummed that I don't have a full year's worth of usage data on the old heat pump but at the old house, plotting out average temperature vs kWh consumed showed a pretty remarkable difference going to an 18 SEER unit. In this case that's about three years of data on the old heat pump and not quite a year on the new one:  Anyway, more Jeep poo poo. The trackbar I forgot to photograph last time I had the tank out:  The frame side fitting that tried to ruin my day last Saturday:  The accursed hose:  The hose's new home: https://i.imgur.com/4BmFyYm.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8CK6CLGTjM Frame-side of the fittings and hose I used to replace that poo poo:  For future reference for any poor souls who come across this in the future, on an 02 TJ the frame hardline is 5/16 and the fuel regulator outlet is 3/8, so you'll need one Russell 644113 and one Russell 644123. I love these fittings. The main part slides on snug over the line, then the rear part slips over the line behind the barb and threads into the main part. No possibility that anything was partially connected here.
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Nov 5, 2021 23:34
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That's just perspective and the exhaust isn't near the track bar, right?
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Nov 5, 2021 23:40
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It's a TJ so there's fuckall for room anyway but yeah the perspective makes it look like the two are nearly touching. The JKS adjustable trackbar is shaped almost exactly like the stock one, it's just that the axle end is threaded. The joint in the axle side is whatever JKS is using now that is somewhere between an actual Johnny Joint and a heim. Replaced the battery in the Canyon tonight, which for a truck with an accessible battery was the most convoluted stupid poo poo ever. There's two bolted-in hold downs, and you have to slide the battery out of / into some plastic clips, and a power distribution block mounted to the positive terminal. It's not as bad as "fenderwell" but it's still a really obnoxious place to have to sling a 60 pound box out of and into. The old battery was still capable of cranking it over just fine, but the voltmeter at 11.5V this morning after the computer gave it a quick hit of the glow plugs, and it's probably at least four years old. Also showed signs of leakage, generally not a good look for an AGM battery.
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Nov 6, 2021 06:29
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I was just complaining about when I had to change the battery in the Sierra. I could see it. I could disconnect things. But I was too stubborn to remove a strut and just fought my way through it until I tried and failed to put the new battery in. At least it's a twice a decade kind of job so I may only have to do it once or twice more. Which also reminded me of the headlight replacement I did. Drivers side, pop this cap and replace. Passenger side, "see dealer". Which really just meant remove the air intake, and that took 20-30 minutes.
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Nov 6, 2021 15:21
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My Duramax is like that. Drivers side headlight is 5 minutes. Passengers? 30 minutes, because the intake and air filter box have to come out.
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Nov 6, 2021 18:34
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Quoting myself from the Jeep thread.IOwnCalculus posted:Been chasing down what sounds like a bearing failure noise on my TJ, but the drat thing is so loud normally that it's hard to pick out while driving. So last night I decided to try putting the transfer case in neutral and letting the clutch out in gear. Idle in fifth gear sounds pretty gnarly: IOwnCalculus posted:Took two more videos today after doing an engine oil change. Tonight I got the transfer case mostly prepped for removal. I waited to drain the fluid until I had the belly pan and the driveshafts out of the way, since the pan in particular makes draining/filling the case a loving nightmare. This is what came out.  While I expect that others were right and that it's the input shaft bearing that shat the bed, this is so much metal that I should probably treat every bearing as suspect. I'll pull the case tomorrow and tear it down in the garage before I order any parts.
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Jan 22, 2022 03:21
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How much RTV is too much RTV? At least this much.  This case has been sealed for at least three years. I could still smell vinegar anytime I pulled RTV apart.  The oil is so gritty that it called Biden racist.  The magnet and speed sensor are filthy, sure, but not nearly as bad as I expected. Yes, that's more RTV on the loving spring.  Speed sensor close-up.  And the root cause of the whole shebang - oil starvation from a nearly completely plugged pickup.  Topside doesn't look as bad in photos but there's still plenty of bits of red RTV in it.  Nearly completely torn down aside from splitting the pump housing / pump / shaft. I haven't figured out if there's a snap ring in there I'm missing (I don't think there is?) or if this is RTV or something else just jamming everything together. Note the input shaft seal housing upper right - it was oddly in black RTV instead of red, but it was also slathered with so much that the snap ring holding the bearing in was half coated in it.  Close-up of the output shaft / pump / housing. I'm going to throw a Teraflex 2Low kit in it because at this point I've already done the same amount of work and it's only loving money right? Still cheaper than a car payment?  None of the bearings have any obvious massive damage but they all feel gritty so they're all coming out and getting replaced. The only thing I'm not certain on is the planetary - is that reusable in a failure like this or should I treat it as contaminated and buy a new one? I'm hoping not because that thing is spendy.
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Jan 23, 2022 05:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:
At least you don't have to question if you found the right failure mode.
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Jan 23, 2022 15:05
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Right? I'll admit at first I was slightly worried that using my old stash of Dexron VI was a cause. I found out VI only considered a replacement for Dexron III in automatic transmissions - transfer cases and power steering systems that call for III need to stick with III. It sucks to have to go through the case but I will take an obvious and resolvable root cause over ambiguous anyday. But with this much RTV in there it was doomed no matter what fluid was in it. I'll be putting it together with the barest whiff of Right Stuff when I get to that point. I had to deal with this bearing today:  It's a dance of using snap ring pliers to stretch the ring out as far as possible, then jamming screwdrivers into the slots at 1/7 o'clock, and then hammering the bearing towards you. At least once it gets far enough that the snap ring can't click back in, it just becomes a matter of driving it out. And in case anyone in the future ever needs to rebuild a JB Conversions Super Short SYE, the bearing used is a 6207N:  I also found what I believe to be the main source of metal, the pump itself:  Worth noting that the two bearings I've fully removed so far (the input shaft and rear output shaft) both feel much worse once I cleaned out the remnants of ATF, with definite flatspots.
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Jan 24, 2022 02:21
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Make sure you disassemble the planetary set as far as you can and flush all gun drilled and otherwise oil drilled components - both the output shaft and input shaft have oil passages drilled into them and trash can and will hide in those. Also check the shift forks and pads and collars because those are a very common area for wear especially when run low or empty.
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Jan 24, 2022 03:14
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Yup. It wasn't ever out of oil, just oil pressure - the pads all look good but I'll probably pick some new ones up anyway. I just finished disassembling the planetary and it doesn't look or feel like any metal flakes made it past the upper thrust bushing. I'll run all of it through the parts washer tomorrow and then do the same process with the output shaft.
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Jan 24, 2022 05:15
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How's the pocket bearing in the input shaft and the needles in the planet gears? Any sign of damage or contamination in either? Quad4x4 is the only company I've found that sells the correct pocket bearing, most companies sell you a caged needle bearing with no cap and you'll either have the tcase and transmission sharing fluid or have to buy a separate drift plug that's a pain in the rear end to put in if you go that route. I've got the part number for it on record somewhere but not sure where and they're one of those companies that uses their own part number and obscures the industry standard part number so they can charge a few bucks more for the privilege, which annoys the poo poo out of me but... It certainly got my business.
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Jan 24, 2022 09:56
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Planet gears feel fine but I haven't hit them with the parts washer yet. Needle bearing definitely felt gritty after I drove it out and washed it. Rockauto lists National FC66561 which sure looks identical in photos, cap and all, and only lists applications that definitely would have had a NP/NV transfer case. So I'm hopeful there.
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Jan 24, 2022 15:46
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Interesting, last time I checked they didn't have a capped one. I hope it fits because then I can buy from there.
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Jan 25, 2022 00:03
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Not only is it capped, it's a USA-made Koyo bearing. The number stamped on the bearing (which is absolutely unreadable on the one I pulled out of the case) is DB-59856. Annoyingly, the National-branded 207L/6207 for the JBC SSYE turned out to be a Chinese Peer bearing. Not what I'd hoped for but then it seems that Peer is owned by SKF anyway? Probably not going to bother returning it unless it ends up not fitting for some reason.
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Jan 26, 2022 20:33
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