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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Well I guess you'll have to drive the GMC while you fix the Ranger's head gasket.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Any junkyards nearby with late-model vans that you can steal the hydroboost equipment off of for pennies on the dollar? :getin:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Can you not just grab something from a pick n pull for now? There is usually one or two '68-'72 in the yards here. Perhaps just find (and pocket) a pushrod? Do you know what trucks used that combination, if any? Could you sacrifice one or two pick n pull wrong-size pushrods to the welder gods? Since it'd be in compression it might actually be trustworthy, unlike that steering shaft the Caddy guy (sorry guy, blocking on your name) had made up for his Corvair.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Also something something Chrysler factory zip ties :haw:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
This is off-topic, but what did you do to block off the EGR on the intake manifold? Doesn't look like the usual aluminum plate with o-ring that I see people with. I'm trying to think of a solution that's cheaper than a fancypants $30 piece of machined aluminum, and less lovely than a piece of scrap metal and a big glob of RTV.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Expanding rubber plug. Glamorous it is not, but it works. Eventually I want to re-solve that problem with a LS6 intake manifold.

Ah, yeah. Inelegant, but I guess it's been working for you. Last I looked, LS6 manifolds were still pretty expensive, has that changed? Didn't seem like a good bang-for-buck option.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

You could always just make a blockoff plate yourself, 1/8" aluminum is cheap and really really easy to work with if you have a basic homeowner drill press and a couple files. And you can hide a lot of scratches and scribe marks and filing mistakes with a swanky "brushed aluminum" finish (i.e. wirewheel the bastard until all your sins are forgiven.)

Yeah, this is what I'm thinking. I don't have a way to machine an O-ring groove into the bottom of it, so I'm probably just going to try to seal the plate on with RTV, or maybe just put a sheet of gasket rubber on the bottom of the plate.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

I've been following the Dorman LS2 intake manifold closely. It's finally been released (615-901) and is only about $350 from Rockauto. It's basically their version of an older FAST design but at a third of the price.

The really interesting thing is they supposedly designed it to natively fit the LS1 injectors and fuel rail, with spacers included to fit the shorter LS2 injectors and rail it is meant for. If that's true, that's awesome as hell on Dorman's part.

The Trailblazer SS LS2 intake is also supposedly quite good, and can be found very inexpensively, but it has no provision for a throttle cable bracket.

TBSS intake is also pretty big, right? I think that's what they started using on all truck motors once they moved away from the original mega ugly truck manifold. TBSS is the best flowing stock manifold, isn't it? Be interesting to see how this weird frankenstein LS2 manifold stacks up against it. Has anyone done a side-by-side test with it yet?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

The TBSS intake is tall as hell, yes. However I doubt I would run into any vertical clearance issues. The top of the LS as it sits is still well below the height of the old SBC with a Quadrajet and a giant round air filter on top.

Edit: just checked ls1tech again. Holy poo poo, Dorman really did design this thing to fit LS1s first. LS1 rails and injectors bolt in, and they include adapters for the LS2 parts. There's a guy literally putting up a series of posts right now with flow numbers comparing it to the original Corvette LS1, the TBSS, and the FAST 102 LSXT which is hilariously tall (and expensive). :f5:

I just checked, and yeah that's pretty impressive. Looks like it's better than the LS1 everywhere (no surprise), better than the TBSS at low lift, but a bit shy of the TBSS at high lift. So I guess it depends on your cam. Kind of counter-intuitive that a high lift cam would pair better with a truck manifold than with the LS2 manifold, but that's the way it is.

I'm impressed by the work Dorman did to get it to be a straight-across swap with LS1, LS6, etc

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

shy boy from chess club posted:

Please dont forget to do an open header video before the exhaust shop. Its in the gearhead rules somewhere near the top of the list.

Ideally, open headers and low trans fluid, so you have to pin it in order to creep along at a jog. I highly recommend it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Don't you have a helper monkey running around that could hold a wrench on that nut?

Or a pair of vise grips (or locking crescent)

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

You cursed me, you monster :bahgawd:

Haha, gotcha. Hopefully the trans cooler lines don't put up too much of a fight. Are they soft lines? I would expect hard lines to be difficult to accidentally damage without noticing.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

So this thing sounds so good at idle that I was thinking maybe I wanted to throw some cutouts on it.

Took it for a quick test drive tonight to get the bubbles out of the coolant, fresh gas in the tank, and make sure the leaks are fixed (so far, yes). As soon as I touched the gas... NOPE. It goes from loud to "oh gently caress are my ears bleeding" thanks to resonance in the cab. I just barely touched the throttle enough to get it up to 40.

Yeah open headers sound great at idle, but get painful. That is why straight-through glasspacks are a thing :q:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Good: Exhaust shop got everything hooked up neatly.

Bad: Looks like the valvecover gasket I put on the driver's side must've come loose / pinched or something, since as I was turning right towards home (and stomped on it, of course) I got a big smokescreen. :doh:

Your youtube link isn't showing up for me for some reason ;)

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I've had great success with the loaned 3-finger ball joint separator from autozone, hit it with your impact and it should come off nice and smooth-like.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Fo3 posted:

I got one of those but with a less cast look and more hardened tool look. I did my idler arm last week and could only get it 1/4 the way in (no room to hammer it in plus I wanted to save the boot), and that 1/4 way in was mainly on one tooth/side. It still separated the joint and didn't damage the boot and I've used it with susp and tie rods last year, so it's definitely a keeper, and doesn't look bendy when using it and a sharper fork to get in there and seat better.

quick pic

Link to aussie store for more clues so someone may work out the same USA retailer or ebay stock
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ToolPro-Tie-Rod-End-Ball-Joint-Separator/377217

That looks pretty similar to the HF one https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Got the manifold

Are you using a GM manifold, or the Dorman one?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

GM. Found one on Amazon Warehouse Deals for $113 "used like new". If that one doesn't pan out for some reason they're only $130+tax.

Sounds like a deal. Aren't all the 4-bolt throttle bodies DBW, or was there some transition period?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

STR posted:

If only soft 8s were made for 4 lug...

Diamond, but I'm always skeptical of the affordability of any vendor that doesn't list a price.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

STR posted:

So how do you think Diamond Soft 8 knockoffs would look on a Saturn? :v:

Better than a lot of other things you could do to it, I bet

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
glad to see some truck content. every time i see this thread come up, i read the title and go "oh! ls1 truck! sweet" then it turns out you're working on jeep stuff or boring daily driver stuff. which is fine, but not nearly as cool

how do you like the cpp parts? the pro touring forums dont seem to think very highly of them, but i think thats just the chinese manufacturing bogeyman. doesnt mean they're bad parts, but they might be somewhat more "value engineered" than others. in particular, it might be a good idea to swap in a name-brand balljoint. did you have any fitment issues?

IOwnCalculus posted:

it's probably too low to drive as it sits

nonsense. worst case, maybe you need some higher rate springs

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i think it looks pretty good without the chrome rings. kind of reminiscent of the recessed headlights in the MB/M38/M38A1

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Meanwhile (as in, literally the same day I did the work in the last post), let's take a minor diversion for An Experiment In Science And Art.


First, the Science. I want to weld things, but the things I can get my hands on readily are zinc-coated and I would rather not die of welder's lung. So, let's strip the zinc.


A few spoonfuls of citric acid crystals in the water and a few minutes later, things are fizzing gently.


While that works its magic, thinking it was going to be a few hours at most, I grabbed a couple chunks of rebar that have been rotting earning patina out in the backyard after a concrete project, and gave them a pass with a wire wheel on my drill.


More fizzing, though not as much as I'd like and this is already a few hours in. My wife helpfully points out that I could've added a lot less water and ended up with a stronger solution, so I dump what's there and do just that.


Since I had the luxury of time I also let it sit for 24+ hours and now it looks like it's properly stripped all the zinc off.


A quick wipedown and yep, just plain steel now.


Time to assemble some new toys.


And amazingly, I was able to glue some metal together. This is fluxcore welding so this is after a lot of wirebrushing already. But for this project I have no intention of using a grinder and paint to hide my sins.


Let's add the rebar from earlier with some horrendous welds. Decide where the third nut should go, looking for something good in the hand but not excessive.


Running out of light, but cut the rebar and ground the ends down to keep everything where I want it.


The next afternoon - more welds, more grinding. Comes out nicely balanced.


Remember I have some sheetmetal in the garage and decide to practice running beads. My handwriting is poo poo, somehow this is slightly better. Also, now I know why everyone goes to the effort of getting a gas tank and running MIG instead of flux-core, holy poo poo.


A few more welds, a scrubdown with a wire wheel to knock off the worst, and this extremely warped Art is ready.

this rules. most creative aiss entry so far

by the way, how do you like the cooper evo M/Ts? im trying to decide between those and the stt pros everyone likes so much

was on my way to the jeep thread, but you had them conspicuously framed in your pictures, so thought id ask here too

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

The newest, lowest mileage vehicle I own is supposed to be the one that needs the least maintenance, right?

hmm im doing the math on this and i don't think that's right

for me that's the jeep, so it will never be true as long as that remains the case, lmao

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
im actually somewhat surprised that arizona cares about emissions compliance. i thought it was one of the "do what you want, yeehaw" states.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

I always 'joke' that Arizona is the concept of FYGM, granted statehood... but we love federal highway money. On one hand, it's "just" the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas. On the other, that's nearly six million of the seven million people that live in AZ. We're also, to my knowledge, the only state that still enforces emissions testing all the way back to model year 1967. The only reason the C10 and Opel don't have to go through emissions is the classic insurance exemption that was added 20 years ago. If I had them on regular insurance they'd need an idle/loaded dyno test every year. The air quality here keeps bouncing off of "barely breathable" so the feds almost never sign off on reductions in emissions controls.

For extra annoyance, because it's a diesel, the Canyon is subject to annual testing, not the every-two-year testing that every other OBD2 vehicle gets.

AZ emissions also sucks for engine swaps in an OBD2 chassis, because there are no documented policies / procedures like CA has. They absolutely will not allow any swap where the VIN in the computer doesn't match the VIN on the chassis, with no process to account for this. I'd love to put a Vortec 4200 in the TJ but only the 2008 and 09 4200s share an LSx PCM that can easily be modified to report a non-GM VIN. Nobody's solved that for the vastly more common 02-07 4200s.

okay, i am even more surprised that it's stricter than california. i thought we were the trend-setters with these sorts of restrictions, and other states kind of copied our requirements if they wanted to have similar. i wouldn't have expected arizona to clamp down even harder. three of my four vehicles, legal in CA, would not be in AZ, sounds like. wild.

i guess the populated parts are a lot denser than what i imagine when i think of the desert trails, so that probably accounts for the majority of the dissonance.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

CA is definitely stricter in many ways - there's no mandate in AZ for CARB EO numbers for headers or intakes or other mods you put on a car, and we don't require OE catalytic converters. Technically everything 1967-95 is supposed to get a visual inspection to go with the sniffer test, but the average emissions dyno employee just goes "yep, it's an engine" and moves on.

And yeah, the density of where most people actually live in AZ is not too far off of a good chunk of CA. We lack true urban high-density but the suburban sprawl is unending.

ah, so you're saying that while engine swaps are not kosher according to the law, it's not really enforced as long as you can pass the sniffer test. probably you couldn't get away with swapping a 4-cyl or 6-cyl with a carbureted V8, but LS swaps are still on the table.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
man i do not like pigtailing things and adding more splices to the harness. for that price you could probably get a handful of new connector bodies and a pin extractor, just sayin...

not that i know what connector series that is, maybe they're obscenely expensive for some reason. but thats the way i would approach this problem

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

Probably like 6 bucks for shipping though so you'll want to get some other things and spares to make it worth the ride.

i usually prefer digikey for this reason; they have an inexpensive shipping tier where they throw your order in a usps envelope and it gets there when it gets there. just has to be like, under half a pound i think?

do those connectors have a useful pin extractor, or do you just poke a tab with a screwdriver?

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
not knowing anything about those trucks, probably the clock spring?

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