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Holy poo poo just skimming past the pictures I thought this was blood at first. 
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Jan 23, 2013 09:34
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blk posted:What's the Oregon blue plate from? My very first car, which I have a pic of in the car history thread. I think they're the original '65 plates, and if not they're from the 70's. In Oregon the plates stayed with the car back then. I scrapped it and kept them for sentimental reasons, planning to hang them on the wall eventually.
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Jan 23, 2013 17:41
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And yet another update! I was hoping to get the motor out tonight but it was not meant to be. I did however get a box of parts. I got some parts for my V70, and for this car I got a stereo pocket, hood latch handle, and clutch position sensor. Since some of the parts were dealer-only, I added the rest out of convenience.  This is the exact same stereo pocket as my V70, except this one is sprayed with flocking and my V70 pocket is rubber coated. I think I like the rubber coating better, but this beats the poo poo out of the aftermarket DIN pocket of hard plastic with too large of a border.  The hood latch handle was broken like so:  New one snaps in like so:  Here's the stock intake tube, see how bad it necks down?  Side by side with poor flash so you really can't see how small it necks down, but trust me it's small:  The real benefit of this intake is both throttle response, and glorious intake noise. I haven't seen one negative review. So for the rest of the night I fully disconnected the rest of the engine connections, so it is ready to drop out. It hit about 7:30 and I decided that the next step is really to drop the motor and that's too ambitious of a project for a wednesday night. So sunday is my next window for working on the car, which should give me a nice long day to figure out exactly how to get it done. Oh, as a bonus I saw the date code on the coolant reservoir is 3/11, so that was just replaced. Probably in an attempt to solve the coolant leak, which is coming from under the turbo and eventually killed the car. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jan 24, 2013 05:00
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Ah, what a great Sunday afternoon, 60 and sunny, let's swap motors! Let's tear down the suspension and see what's up! poo poo, need new sway bar links.  poo poo, need new tie rod ends:  poo poo, need new rotors  poo poo, need new control arms.  poo poo, need new wheel bearings, poo poo, need new EVERYTHING under the front end. I mean, I still have my 63k wheel bearings and steering rack so that's not a total loss, but I was hoping to put it back together as-is. I already have new struts and upper mounts and everything there, so it's not such a big deal, but it's still an additional $400 or so that I was hoping not to spend right now. Plus I wanted to get my new brakes powder coated after the project was done, but now I have to do it right away. To top it all off, as I went to lift, I failed the hydraulic ram on the harbor freight engine hoist! I overloaded it I know, so I feel really stupid. I was trying to jack the car up off the motor, and it hooked on the motor as I lifted so it put waaaaaay more weight on it than it should have had. So I rolled the car back in on dollies and burned the rest of the day in front of the TV. Tonight I made a trip to HF and broke down and not only got a new ram, but bought the load leveler I need to take the motor out the top. I also gambled on their sockets, as I don't have any 1/2" drive metric sockets. I always used my 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, which I finally broke a few weeks ago removing some junkyard V70 struts that someone assembled with a god drat impact.  So that ruined my Sunday, and then tonight it's 30° and snowing, to continue through the day tomorrow. Ugh. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2013 04:38
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Well, last weekend was lost to a sick kid, then this weekend was lost to me being sick and also the super bowl. But tonight, finally some progress! First, about $7 shy of $1000, and that's wholesale. Pretty much every ball joint and tie rod, brakes, radiator, filters, and I splurged and got a full samco silicone hose kit for the coolant and intake.  So here's an advantage of having a convertible, I needed to move the garage door to get the hood all the way up.  With the load leveler now I can get the front of the motor high enough to start moving it over the frame rail.  The transmission is still caught under the ABS module but it's not wedged in, the load leveler is doing its job.  And we're clear, even with the halfshaft stuck in the transmission I can still get the assembly out.  Bam. Engine out, A/C intact in the car.  Now I can start cleaning all this up.  Removing and installing the control arms is MUCH easier with the motor out, as you can see. In fact, the Volvo manual says to unbolt all the motor mounts and jack the motor up to do them.  Now that I know the engine comes out without moving the subframe, I now realize a) I wasted a bunch of time and energy removing the subframe from the car, and B) I can fully rebuild the suspension and roll the car around without the motor in it. That'll make rolling it out to wash the engine bay much, much easier.  Also time to install the shift cables and clutch master cylinder, and run the new wiring for the clutch switch.  I tell you what, for $11 these have carried more weight than they had any right to. Even across the floor seams. Full weight of the car on them and they still work fine. What they don't do is roll on the rough asphalt outside of my garage, so I need my front wheels back to get the car out.  And I just thought the triangle box for the control arms was cool so here's a picture.  So as much as I'd like to jam my old motor in there right away, I want to wash the engine bay which will require me to roll it out of the garage, which will require me to assemble the suspension to get it on the ground. Unfortunately I forgot to order steering rack boots with my tie rods so those will be done afterwards. One other small frustration, none of the front rotors my dad's wholesaler carries are zinc plated in the 12" upgrade size, except the ATE rotors with the silly star shaped groove milled into it. So I have plated rear rotors but I have to paint the fronts to prevent them from rusting. Oh well. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2013 07:03
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Nice job, as always, Lloyd!LloydDobler posted:Removing and installing the control arms is MUCH easier with the motor out, as you can see. In fact, the Volvo manual says to unbolt all the motor mounts and jack the motor up to do them. But this just seems completely bonkers. I did both sides alone on my S70 in under two hours without doing any of that jazz, how much easier could it be?
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Feb 6, 2013 16:34
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I did both sides alone on my S70 in under two hours without doing any of that jazz, how much easier could it be? Yeah, they changed the way the bolts go through over the years. On this car and I believe the XC70 it bolts through from the inside of the subframe. On the S70 the bolts were on the outside, through the control arm bushing and some gussets. You could get to them in the fenderwell.
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Feb 6, 2013 21:01
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Nowhere near as much done this weekend as I wanted, but that's life. One of those days where the ex called me up and asked me to keep my daughter longer. I didn't get started on the car till 3:00 and I got stymied by the friggin clutch master. I've installed and removed it twice before but this time I could not get it in for the life of me. You can see all the scratches on the firewall:  Where this loving stud was hitting:  I removed the stud and it went in fine. Used a bolt rather than try to put the stud back in. I don't know what they were thinking, I would have had to remove the brake booster on this car, makes me wonder how I got it in on my 04, maybe the brake booster or the ABS module are shaped different, I dunno. But I worked on that loving thing for at least 45 minutes, simply not believing that it doesn't fit. Very frustrating. Then I finished installing the shifter and cables:  Next I decided to swap struts. My strut assemblies from the 04 were complete and ready to drop in, but I suspected that the spring seats were going. Last February before I crashed it, I bought a set of slightly used upper bearings and IPD HD spring seats, and I've had them this whole time. Sure enough, I took them apart and the spring seats were on their way out:  New IPD goodness:  Then I spent another hour or two swapping the sway bar links and control arms, and got those all torqued up properly. I was kind of hoping to get it down on the wheels but at this point I ran out of steam.  I'm definitely getting old, only 4 hours in the garage and I'm cooked. Although to be fair that clutch cylinder really pissed me off, I almost quit working after I got it in. Anyway, next up will be steering tie rods and spindles, then I can drop the car on the ground and roll it out to wash the engine bay. I'll try to do that tomorrow night. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Feb 11, 2013 07:19
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I had a nice two hour burst of energy tonight. Started with bolting the chassis brace on: Next I attacked the tie rods. Removal:  New install:  Dropped in the spindles and attached everything except the sway bar links. The car doesn't have enough weight in the front to compress the springs enough to attach them, the sway bar is too heavily preloaded. But I'll fix that later. I also really hate the fact that I put the old crappy brakes back on but I'm still debating whether to powdercoat or just rattle can the new ones. I have the 305mm kit ready to go, it's just ugly. Whatever I do I want them to look nice, the pegasus wheels show everything.  Back on its wheels for the first time in a while.  So tomorrow night I think I'll finish wiring the clutch switch and that will allow me to fully button up the interior. Then the next step is really just to wash the engine bay so I can drop the new motor in! I should be able to get to that by the weekend. It's kind of weird feeling to think I might actually have this running within a week. Once it runs I get it smogged and registered, then I can clean the garage and bring my 122 home. What sucks is that I'm still not quite done spending money, I need fog lights, tires, and dent removal. And two of the wheels are lightly bent so while the tires are off I want to get those refinished. Then I want to get the whole thing professionally detailed and if that doesn't clean up the front bumper enough I'll replace that. Then I need to weld my new cat to the OBX downpipe and THEN I'll be done. I have a sneaking suspicion that the last few items will drag out another month or two, which really is fine since the weather sucks right now anyway. It'll spread the last few bills out. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2013 08:08
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Man you are really dedicated to your cars. I just put $700 in our DD beater civic this week and I'm all paranoid about wrecking it and never seeing that money again. Your cars BELONG IN A MUSEUM!
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Feb 13, 2013 16:43
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Oh hardly. These are driven cars, just taken care of I guess. Even with all the new parts I'm only $8500 into this so far, which is a bargain considering all the mods it now has, and how little maintenance it will need over the next 5 years. On with the update: I didn't get anything done last week or over the weekend at all, my daughter had a sleepover here so I was cleaning house and playing host. Then tonight I really, really needed to do an oil change on my wagon, I'm about 2000 miles overdue because of the cold weather and this car in the garage. So tonight I rolled the convertible outside, and put the wagon in the garage with a hot motor so it would warm it up, and it worked beautifully. I ate dinner then went out and changed my oil in a warm garage. (The high was 30° today and it was about 24° when I got home) After that I decided to do some playing with the wiring on the C. First I need a wire (preferably gray and white) from the old harness so I can snap it into the new car for the clutch switch signal. Found one:  While I was in there I noticed that the CAN bus wires go to the TCU first and then are jumpered to the ECU. On manual cars it says the wires go directly to the ECU. I was going to cut and solder these to bypass the TCU but since I have to get in to the plug to snap the clutch signal wire I may as well re-route the wires properly.  So I tried to just jam the gray/white wire in to the bottom of the connector, but it doesn't go. The connector actually has a plastic lock as a failsafe to keep the pin connectors from sliding out of the block. So I have to pull the whole connector set from the ECU mounting base. It starts by removing this connector which blocks the removal of the other connector:  Then you shove the connector out with a screwdriver in this slot:  Next, you push this sliding lock out. This is the actual lock for the wires, and it is very, very delicate. It also holds the two sub-blocks together.  Once that was out I was able to just stick the gray and white wire in. It's in pin 15, I know this because the white can-bus wire is in pin 13 and the solid gray brake position switch wire is in pin 16. also here is a good look at how you remove the wires, you basically jam a sharp object against that triangle shaped locking tab in the little "window" there, and the wire comes out of the connector.  Here you can see the CAN bus jumper wires, which I will remove from both connectors one at a time.  And since I was concentrating I didn't take any photos, but now the car's CAN bus wires go straight to the ECU, just like a factory manual car. The only wires left from the TCU are a starter inhibitor wire (white) which goes unused on a manual car, and the green/orange wire to the winter mode button below the automatic shifter, which also is now unused on both ends. These changes allow me to not replace the TCU.  All snapped back together  Unused jumpers.  Keep in mind that these are just the changes to the body side of the ECU harness, I haven't decided whether or not to remove unused wires from the engine harness, but after just pulling 10 inches of that gross sticky electrical tape off of my 04 harness, I think I'll just leave the engine harness the way it is, with the auto trans plug all taped up and zip tied out of the way. So while I didn't get much done it was kind of fun and exciting. Now all I have to do is run a wire across and through the firewall to the clutch switch, and one from the clutch switch to the brake position switch where I'll splice it in. Once that's done, it's the last of the wiring. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Feb 19, 2013 07:07
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It amazes me how deep you are into (even just) this project, then flippantly toss out "Oh, 2K late for oil change because weather." Does the left side of your brain often fight with the right?
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Feb 19, 2013 16:26
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Yes, a lot actually. My fellow car nut buddies here constantly tease me because even though I'm someone who stresses over door dings and how to paint my calipers I treat my daily like poo poo. I wash it like twice a year at most, I have a persistent slow coolant leak that I just top up once a month, and a tire that leaks that I top up once a week. It's good that I only have one kid, because I'd probably have the second or third one turn out to be a mass murderer due to me loving the others more.
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Feb 19, 2013 17:12
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This has been a productive week, I started by finishing the last of the wiring: The clutch position sensor. Turns out there's a big hole for some relays that they didn't use, drops right down on to the clutch pedal where I need it. So I brought the two wires up through and pushed them through the factory grommet into the cowl, where I ran them across in some of that accordion loom, right next to the factory loom, zip tied and taped all the way.  I spliced into the common wire from the brake position switch in the middle of the cowl, it worked out to be the easiest place to do it but I forgot a picture. That left me with one wire to run to the ECU, which I took down the factory wiring channel:  Then out the channel and into the ECU box:  then soldered and heat shrink to the wire I plugged in on my previous update.  Then I installed the console and the driver's knee panel:  So that was Wednesday. Yesterday the weather was really nice, so I broke from my tradition of doing whatever my daughter wants to do and made her go play outside while I washed the engine bay. I started by bagging and covering anything I didn't want water in:  And the after photo. It's hard to see a real difference, but trust me, I took a lot of dirt off.  See?  Two things I discovered of minor interest. Under the dirt that was under the battery, is some battery corrosion. I'll shoot that with something before I reinstall the battery.  And some primer under the ECU box, more evidence of this side of the car needing work in the past. but at least it was done fairly well.  That was all I really had planned, but the weather report said we were in for a foot of snow on sunday so I decided to take one more hour and just put the motor in already. I forgot I put my lowering springs in last week:  The hoist came out eventually, and tada! Motor in!  Which brings us to Sunday. I started by getting the accessories hooked up, but noticed on the AC and power steering pulleys from the 03, there was a bunch of crud in the V-grooves of the serp belt. It was like hard rubber or clay, and it took me well over an hour to scrape it out of there. The hard part was finding the right way to hold the scraper while I slowly turned the pulley, and the AC pulley is buried down low. I kinda wish I noticed it before I put everything back together.  I spent the next two or three hours buttoning up everything under the car. I installed the halfshafts, got all the motor mounts bolted up, got all the small brackets and reinforcements bolted up, hooked up the sway bar links, and drained and filled the oil. The oil only had a few hundred miles on it but it's been sitting a year, I really don't want to take chances after all this work. I didn't take any pics of all that, was in a groove. But needless to say, I'm done under the car. Next I just started cleaning and installing things as I saw fit. Serpentine belt, ECU, and getting the wiring harness properly tied back down.  This is a bummer. I do want to go to the old style thermostat housing so I guess this is just another excuse.  And yes, the weather report was right for a change.  I'm very glad I got the motor in yesterday because I wouldn't have been able to do it today, It snowed all day with high winds, I have a two foot drift on my porch. I worked on the car for almost 7 hours and just stopped when I got tired. I need to buy coolant and a battery for it anyway, so it wasn't going to get started even if I wanted to. I also stopped because I needed to look up the torque settings for a few things which were bottlenecking me. Also the brake fluid is ridiculously dirty but I don't want to waste fluid flushing it, only to swap calipers and need to flush it again. This means I can't bleed the clutch system until I do the brakes as well, unless I get some sort of separate clutch reservoir. I think I'll take this week and just clean and rattlecan my brakes rather than powdercoating them, and I'll just piddle through the week finishing final assembly which will leave the big startup day sometime next weekend. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2013 07:27
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Goddamn, nice work! Can't wait to see it back on the road again.
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Feb 25, 2013 07:42
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Well, after Sunday's big push I didn't feel like doing anything. But that doesn't mean I got nothing done. I shopped for a battery, paint, coolant, lightbulbs, and a few other miscellaneous things, like wire loom. This is an artifact of the auto to manual swap. There's a large plastic wire guide that goes here, which screws on to the automatic transmission. Well, it doesn't fit the manual so I took it off. This left all the wire exposed:  This is much better:  So then tonight I stopped at my friendly indy volvo shop and bought a used thermostat housing, new gasket, and new thermostat. The thermostat on the left is the design on my car that is not sold in pieces. It's a housing, thermostat, and temp sensor, and costs around $120. You can't buy the guts. I say screw that. The old design worked for years and takes a $15 thermostat.  I was told the sensors have the same range and perform identically, but I wanted to swap it so it'd be plug and play. They are almost identical.  The newer sensor does screw right in, unfortunately it's so large that it's touching the tube where the radiator hose goes. No wonder they put a dongle on the older ones.  At least it works and the new thermostat is in.  As a side bonus, this allows me to use my ridiculously expensive silicone radiator hose I just bought which is made for this housing and not the newer one.  Now I just have to figure out if the polarity matters here and splice a different plug on. I found one that will work with a tab ground off, from the coolant level sensor. I'll look at my wagon and see which wire is connected to which. I don't think it matters, I'm pretty sure it just changes resistance with temperature.  Then when I thought I was done tonight, I kept working and got the intake assembled and battery in place. I still haven't installed the stereo yet, but all that's left up front is the radiator stack and intake plumbing, and to reassemble the headlights and bumper. I will start the car this weekend, and take a half day off next week to get it smogged and registered. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Mar 1, 2013 08:43
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What kind of clamps are you using on that radiator hose? I not only had to buy new ones for mine but even bought the wrong ones and had to hit up the local drag racing store in the middle of the install to go buy super expensive t-bolt clamps. I'm pretty sure you can buy an entire human baby for less than the $6/clamp I paid. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 17:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What kind of clamps are you using on that radiator hose? I not only had to buy new ones for mine but even bought the wrong ones and had to hit up the local drag racing store in the middle of the install to go buy super expensive t-bolt clamps. T-bolt clamps work really well.
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Mar 1, 2013 19:09
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I threw away the old corroded hose clamps for the radiator so I need to hit the auto parts store this weekend and see what they have. But I'll probably just use regular worm clamps. I took out a mortgage on some T-bolt clamps for all the boost hoses, but for the low pressure intake hoses I'm just using some regular stainless worm drive hose clamps. Oh hey I just noticed that I left the last picture off my last post. Here's the intake side. I paid a lot for this battery, it's AGM and has a 5 year non prorated warranty, higher CCA and reserve ratings than the regular battery, and MADE IN  but you guys all know I got it just because it matches my silicone.
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Mar 1, 2013 21:28
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Well, a 4 hour push tonight left me with everything hooked up and installed, filled the fluids, attached the battery, and it cranks but won't start. I double checked everything I could think of as far as basic stuff, so I figure I need to sleep on it and also talk to the tuner. It has fuel pressure at the rail, fuel pump is priming when key is turned on The dash lights all work, oil light goes out as expected Double checked engine grounds Double checked all plugs I can think of Tested switches and controls in the body, lights, fan, windows, convertible top, all work normal. Reseated ECU Installed TCU just in case Hooked up generic OBD scanner, no codes. Good communication, I can press the gas pedal and the software tracks it as expected. The check engine light flashes at me after about 15 seconds of cranking. The immobilizer light on the dash does not blink. I'll keep you all posted.
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Mar 4, 2013 06:07
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After further testing, everything is right. I double checked compression and fuel pressure, I have spark, I swapped a few relays and triple checked the fuses, I even re-wired the TCU back into the CAN bus just in case that was it. I get the flashing up arrow indicating a transmission fault, just as I should. Everything's talking. The injectors have power but are not firing. That is what happens when the immobilizer prevents the car from starting. My buddy who works at the volvo shop told me to swap the 4 main modules that use the immobilizer codes from my 04, just to try it out... except I sold the ECU as a core to the guy who programmed this one. Sigh. At least I haven't been able to find anything I did wrong, it appears that something is just borked in the ECU and the way it's talking to the car. Oh, and none of the T-bolts that were supposed to be matched to my tubing kit worked. They're either too big or too small. So I hope they'll refund the money on that because I wasted an hour trying to get them to work.
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Mar 6, 2013 07:33
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That's a lovely setback, but things were going remarkably smoothly up to that point! What's the worst-case resolution? Reprogram the immobilizer? Can you have someone out to the house to do it, or take the box in, or does it need a tow?
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Mar 6, 2013 12:10
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:That's a lovely setback, but things were going remarkably smoothly up to that point! Put carbies on it 
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Mar 6, 2013 22:52
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The guy who reprogrammed my ECU is about the most expert person on these cars around, which means he's super busy. I just need him to call or write me back with advice on where to go next, haven't heard from him since monday, but I sent him this same update last night. Other than that I get it towed in to the volvo shop with the official volvo hookup and find out what codes there are, and work back from there. My alarm is still not setting right, if I activate it, the park lights don't flash even though the dash LED does, and the alarm does not go off if I open the door with the alarm set. I'm wondering if maybe my trunk is open now. I'll check that first thing tonight. Ideally I just send him back the ECU and he deletes or somehow overrides the immobilizer functionality and it runs. I don't need something preventing me from starting my car, and I don't drive it enough to worry about it getting stolen.
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Mar 7, 2013 00:54
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Well, the latest word is that the car cranks with the clutch out, which it shouldn't do. Also, the immobilizer kills both spark and fuel, so it's not the immobilizer. So the tuner is going to take a second look at how he flashed it. He also thinks he has my 04 ECU unmodified still, so I'm going to buy that back from him. As a second test I can swap 4 modules in the car and it should run just like it did before. So I have another week or so of delays. In the meantime I'll get the stereo installed and I'm stripping down my 03 motor for fun, and to get it into more manageable pieces.  My welding buddy wants to take it and make a coffee table out of it. Once it and the engine hoist are gone I'll bring the 122 home. I also owe a guy some of the interior pieces from the 03 interior which has just been sitting on my porch this whole time, so I'll take the opportunity to get those gone so I can clean up more. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Mar 10, 2013 07:40
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Got the ECU in the mail today. Put in all the 04 electronics necessary for the systems to work. Everything works, I can set my alarm, the dash lights work, everything... No fuel. gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress . So now I have to check everything yet again, it's almost like a bad ground. Also if I can't find what's wrong then I have to spend hundreds of dollars either buying my own special volvo scan software or towing it to a shop that already has the special volvo scan software. gently caress.
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Mar 16, 2013 05:00
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Not an ideal result, but that almost sounds better. If you're only missing fuel and everything else is working, that opens up the possibility of something silly like a bad ground somewhere, instead of some electronic nanny. Can you just grab one of the Chinese DICE knockoffs and track it down?
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Mar 16, 2013 12:46
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Yeah that's really my next step, but they're still $100-$250 depending on how sketchy you want the vendor to be. Plus several more days of waiting. On the other hand I'll likely hook it up and it'll be like "brake position sensor faulty signal" or "your alphabet relay is closed" and I'll swap it and everything will work. Just frustrating. I mean, right now it kind of has to be something on the body side of the car, and was wrong with the car before I started tearing it down.
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Mar 16, 2013 20:15
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I really hope the software you need isn't the VADIS DVDs from Volvo because I had those in my possession a while ago and threw them out.
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Mar 16, 2013 21:39
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Nah, that's been superseded by a new software called VIDA that works with the current generation of Volvo scan tool (DICE). Sorry to read you're having so much trouble with this, man. I wish I could suggest a solution but my knowledge runs out with the ME4 cars.
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Mar 16, 2013 22:50
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Seems like everyone in AI it's having 99% completion issues with projects. Hope you're able to get it tracked down soon!
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Mar 17, 2013 07:17
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Thanks for thinkin of me dreesemonkey, but I do have VADIS already so no worries. I tried a few more things but at this point nothing is working so I ordered a DICE tool today. Until I get that the project will be on hold. I did have fun Friday night, I finally got my girl to help out. At the time we were swapping modules thinking the car would run for sure, so she was glad to help. It was funny, I had her undo all the dashboard screws, and just as I started pulling on it she said "what's next?" and I popped the whole cover loose, kind of right in her face. She went "Whoa, okay." It's the little things that crack you up as a parent I guess. I loved her choice of shirt.  Here she's unscrewing the ignition switch. At one point she was clear down in the footwell plugging in the CEM, once again a tiny assistant makes life easy.  Between Friday night and saturday night after she went to bed I did some more fault tracing. I redid the ECM ground screw by loosening it and sanding all the paint off the body before screwing it down, didn't help. I had the passenger headlight out for that job, so I went to change the bulb and found melted insulation and a dead short in the internal wiring, at the bulb socket. So that sucks, especially after I cleaned house and threw away any previous housings I had that would have had the harness in it. I guess I'll be splicing. That makes me wonder if something else is shorted out in the body harness, as the fuse wasn't blown. I also tried changing the ignition switch just as a test, and I traced out a bunch of other wires (injector wires aren't cut, relays are getting power) triple checked some fuses and re-checked my connectors under the dash. At this point I'm ready to pull the whole firewall harness and swap it with the 04 harness, but I'll do that only as a last resort, because it's a huge pain in the keister. Software diagnostics first. The best part of my day was then thoroughly cleaning out the garage and organizing all the scrap parts for recycling, so that I could get enough room to bring the 122 home, which I did. Still runs like a top and I got a few thumbs up on the drive. So now all my junk is home and I'm not annoying my boss with a favor. It's a little tight in there and will continue to be until I take the engine hoist back to the friend I borrowed it from, which will be this week sometime.  I need a bigger place. Edit: Also, today was the one year anniversary of crashing the old one. And like last year, this was the first week of the year with good convertible weather, we hit the 70's on friday. Definitely time to get it running. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2013 05:40
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Got my DICE and software on Wednesday, then spent all of tuesday and wednesday nights trying to get XP to load on my laptop, which came with Vista and a SATA drive. XP apparently doesn't have native SATA drivers so you have to do funky tricks to make them work. Well I tried 4 different driver packages including one that matched description identically with what was on the machine under Vista, and it still didn't recognize the drive. So I broke down and bought Windows 7 pro, and got that installed while I was at work Friday, which was great. So last night I fired up the DICE unit and VIDA. Everything installed without a hitch, although it took forever. I went and screwed around with the car and there were actually a whole bunch of trouble codes stored but not active. Things like a bad abs wheel sensor and stuff that was obviously from the wreck. (this is my 04 ecu). The hard part is learning how to use VIDA, it's a bit cryptic and certain things don't really make sense. But I believe I'm learning. So last night I cleared all the codes and two immediately came right back while the car was still connected. ECM-530D Malfunction indicator lamp TCM - faulty signal ECM-4020 Fuel tank pressure sensor - signal too high I know the TCM lamp is faulty because I removed it. It was the only thing IPD didn't do when they manual flashed my ECU, make it stop blinking. As for the fuel tank pressure I'm researching that. Looks like a $200 sensor that OF COURSE I THREW AWAY WITH MY OLD TANK. Just so you see boys and girls, when parting a car it pays to save literally everything, at least until you're sure you don't need it. I had the tank out, it would have been 20 more seconds to grab that sensor. So tonight I decide that I need to try and start the car and see if any more codes show up. So I hook back up and realize that every time you hook the car up it needs to re-read the codes in. That's interesting, so let's do it. I power up and it shows 4 codes this time. The two above are still there, plus: CDM-000D Communication, ECM Internal fault ABS-0093 Control module communication Plus I get a flashing ABS light on the dash now. I try starting the car again and no other codes show up. So it appears that I have a problem with my ABS module, which is good because I DID save the one off my 04, and it's relatively easy to swap over. As for the ECM communication fault, some quick googling shows that is a common code for IPD flashed ECUs. At this point I'm thinking of swapping all the 03 hardware back in to the car and seeing if it throws any different codes. The last thing is that I confirmed again that the alarm isn't working, there's a siren module in the fender that has rechargable batteries in it that eventually die and leak corrosion out on to the circuit board. I'm not seeing anything on the net but The guys at my Volvo shop say this can cause all kinds of havoc with the immobilizer. I know I took the one off the 04, and I know it was working, now I just have to find it. So at least I have one or two things to try now. Hopefully the ABS computer is just causing a communication break of some kind that errors out the ECU but at the same time I'm not getting my hopes up. It's another snowy 20 degree weekend here too so I might not get to it for a few days as all my parts are hidden behind my 122. Not real excited to roll it out into the snow along with all the heat just to work in a 20 degree garage. I also need to learn more about VIDA and how to use it, as I'm not figuring out yet how to get more specific with operating functions and testing modules and such. I'll get there though. So no success yet and none really on the horizon.
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Mar 24, 2013 06:33
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How does Volvo handle the immobilizer? I know some companies bury it (or used to) within the ECU itself (Nissan), while others have a dedicated alarm module that also includes the immobilizer, and requires a shitload of work to flash to a new ECU or even new keys (Saab). Some makes supposedly flash the VIN to every module in the car, which makes for Fun Times if you dare to, say, replace a body control module on your own (Rover, Mopar), causing the entire vehicle to go into gently caress YOU mode. More for my own curiosity - I honestly have no idea how the various comm networks in a car work.
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Mar 24, 2013 06:50
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On this car the immobilizer is a box that checks a code in the DIM (driver information module (instrument cluster)) and the ECU, and the key. It also monitors all the door/hood/trunk/gas switches and a motion sensor. I'm pretty sure if something is out of place it prevents starting, but I'm flustered as to why there's no code saying so.
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Mar 24, 2013 15:31
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Ive got a 00 c70 at the shop right now that i'm trying to repair a hackjob on the upper hose. can you tell me where the expansion tank hose is supposed to mount? there was a clusterfuck of a patched in radiator cap thing to attach it to but I just know that can't be right.
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Mar 25, 2013 02:00
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It follows the green line in this pic:
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Mar 25, 2013 03:08
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I saw that picture, I meant does it plug into the radiator somewhere or attach to something else?
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Mar 25, 2013 03:28
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There should be a nipple for it right above the outlet for the upper rad hose on the passenger side. If there's not one, it's possible (given the hackjob) that someone used a radiator from a '98 or earlier S/V/C70 or 850, in which the expansion tank hose attaches to a fitting on the thermostat housing. The design of the thermostat housing in the engines they used from '99 on doesn't have any provision for it.
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Mar 25, 2013 04:46
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| # ? May 2, 2024 17:22 |
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Yeah, Zundfolge is correct. Nipple right above the hose inlet on the rad end tank. You can install a pre-99 thermostat upper housing if they don't want to change the radiator. It is identical except it has a nipple on it, and costs less than $20. Here is the '98 engine bay with hose routing:  Tell them to keep the 00 thermostat housing in case someone puts the right radiator in it in the future.
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Mar 25, 2013 18:29
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