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LloydDobler posted:Very exciting indeed. Sums it up well.
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Jun 5, 2013 11:51
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I'm glad that worked out. 
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Jun 5, 2013 13:30
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Last week I finished installing and bleeding the brakes: And even though they're 12" they still really don't fill out R wheels very well. At least this time they look alright cosmetically. On my last car they were just rusty and dirty.  So on Sunday I took it out to the import drags, finally looks like my car again!   Unfortunately on my first run I spun the clutch. I wound it up to 4k and slipped it to get going, then gave it full throttle and the engine wound up to 6k but the car didn't move any faster! I shifted to second and it did it again, so I backed way off the throttle and just idled off the track. Only 16k on it, but it stunk pretty bad the last time I drag raced with it, so it just had too much heat and its life is definitely shortened. The good news is that once it cooled off it works like normal, albeit with a slightly higher engagement point, and it chatters now if I slip it too much. I've since done some full throttle pulls and it doesn't slip if it's already engaged, but I won't be doing any hard launches until I replace it and get a stronger pressure plate. Truth is, this is just a car to go cruising in and I really had no business taking it down a drag strip anyway. Since it's performing okay for now I'll just use it as is until it either chatters too much or starts slipping all the time. As for the tune, it's interesting because it kind of kicks boost in hard at around 3k, it's not as smooth as I'd hoped, and there's less low end torque than I had before. I still throw a CEL, I cleared it once and it came back, so now it's time to do some investigating there too. I've just been busy. Today I received a boost gage in the mail so I'll be installing that soon to see what my boost is actually doing. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jun 14, 2013 06:05
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My friend used to have a '98 before he got his '02 or whatever and the '98 was a complete dog off the line. Like "feels like I'm literally towing a trailer" kind of dog, not the least bit of exaggeration. The '02 was completely different with about 300% torque off idle compared to the '98, it drove like a normal car. Sucks about your clutch, but at least it's only when you're raggin' on it off the line.
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Jun 14, 2013 16:18
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Since last time I've just been driving it and chasing minor gremlins. I had a persistent coolant leak which I thought I'd traced to a stripped hose clamp, but replacing the clamp amplified the problem, which was this crack. One of the other nice little things that happened was my friend having some leftover leather dye that he used on his C70 with the identical interior. The only major cosmetic defect in the interior was this, left over from the previous owner sliding in and out of the car:  I never slide so it hasn't gotten any worse, but the dye reversed it to looking really good! Can't fix the tiny tears in the vinyl on the side, but it's good enough for me.  I temporarily installed a boost gage so I could see what the boost was doing and it's interesting, it goes in very clear steps - 2000-2500 it's limited to 5 psi, 2500-3000 it's limited to 10 psi, and at 3000 it shoots up to 17. It's more boost down low than my previous tune, but because of the steps it surges very badly in 1st and 2nd gear. Like if I go to shift, just as I cross 3000 RPM the car lurches forward, and then since I'm shifting, it falls flat when I let off the gas. It's kind of embarassing so I'm talking to the tuner about fixing that. I also re-bled the brakes, turns out if you bleed them with the pistons fully retracted it seems to block the bleed ports, so I had ineffective bleeding on two of the calipers. Got it sorted now though, and it brakes like a champ. Took a nice drive with the volvo club through Rocky Mountain National Park last weekend, it was very nice. Didn't have big turnout but we announced the drive pretty late. Small crowds are easier to keep together anyway. Oh, and all 4 of these cars are manual.   Next comes the downpipe install, I'm going to try and work that out with my welding buddy this weekend. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jun 28, 2013 03:30
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"This weekend" turned into Labor day weekend. Since my last update I've done nothing but drive it occasionally and about every 2-3 weeks it throws an overboost code. I've had to reset the ECU twice for that, and have had minimal update from the tuner. He has a European guy helping him, and that guy took the entire month of August off like many Europeans do. But other than that and a minor hard start problem, it's running okay, still with a CEL for missing transmission. He assures me he's closing in on my tune. I started this thread over a year ago now. But I finally did some real car work again and got the downpipe installed! Scheduled it with my same welding buddy who has since been fired from my company and has struck out on his own to do custom exhaust and any other automotive work he is capable of. We started by getting my C70 up on jackstands:  Put a fan on it to cool off the hot turbo. Surprising how well this worked, it was cool enough to keep your hand on it within an hour.  My buddy is big into Subaru/Audi/VW, and dabbles in Volvo. His mom daily drives a '99 V70 T5 manual that they bought new on European delivery and now has something like 220k miles on it. This is his daily driver, a rusty '92 Legacy N/A with full STI suspension and gutted interior, named RuSTI. He beats the poo poo out of it and the few times I've ridden with him he scares the hell out of me. But it handles unbelievably. When he needs to show off his welding skill he just pops the hood and that intake tube stands out like a spotlight.  He did the silly Subaru thing and powdercoated the brakes, a bunch of engine parts, and a bunch of suspension parts hot STI pink.  And this is how he decorated his wall, with stencils of various head and manifold gaskets. Pretty cool for a shop. And he has a bitchin' 5.1 surround system with his pc hooked up for tunes.  But enough about weird Japanese cars. I bought a chinese (obx) 3" downpipe because they're highly rated and really cheap. My friend did give me poo poo for this, he wanted to hand fab something nicer. I didn't want to spend the time. We started by mounting up the new downpipe and fitting the high flow cat.  I started out wanting to leave the factory rear muffler intact, making this downpipe mimic the stock downpipe so that I could swap it out in the event of emissions necessity. But the stock downpipe necks down to 2.25 right before the sphere coupling, and I didn't want to go 3" to 2.25 before the muffler.  I opted to cut the front off the stock muffler instead, and do a V-band clamp there, keeping a short section of pipe before the sphere coupling intact to mount a V-band to it as well, if needed. I really shouldn't need it but I want to be prepared. That way I have a guaranteed emissions pass if the custom stuff fails.  So basically the exhaust on this car is 2 pieces. The downpipe and the muffler, with a sphere joint in the center of the car. Now they're connected with a V-band. Here's my buddy's welding, he's pretty good. We only did the extra weld here because the 3" to 2.5" reducer was already welded to some 3" pipe, it was salvaged from some other aborted project.  Here's the finished downpipe with cat next to the old one. The chinese downpipe was way off center, so we had to do some crooked alignment with the rest of the welds. But you can see how it obviously has a smoother flow path with the wider curve and all that. And now it's 3" all the way back to the middle of the car, then necks gently down to 2.5 into the stock muffler. This is a 3" high flow Magnaflow cat recommended by other Volvo guys who have used it with success.  And once we added more O2 bungs, we installed the whole thing.  So I basically have a spare bung for a wideband if I want it, and I'll have to extend the rear O2 to get it in behind the new cat. Right now I'm running no rear O2 sensor at all. That took us about 8 hours on monday, but only due to constant interruptions. He had a friend show up and was too nice to say no to a multilevel marketing presentation. I kind of just grumbled to myself waiting for that to finish. And we also ordered pizza so that took some time. All in all a leisurely day of heavy lifting and welding. The good news is, the car sounds awesome. I actually shut my stereo off to listen to the exhaust now. It's quiet, because I'm a grownup and don't really feel like annoying my neighbors, but it's very obviously custom now with an authoritative rumble at idle and turbo whine when I get on it. Have some not completely adequate audio: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZIvy-oBed0&feature=youtu.be Next: Foglights, dent removal and detail. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Sep 5, 2013 04:05
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Buy your buddy an account. That thing is wicked. Lovely sound out of your C70 now.
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Sep 5, 2013 17:20
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I did laugh at the bright pink powdercoating. Although it is a good idea when pointing out parts to a non car person. "So the rear suspension arm is bent" "Which one is that?" "The pink one next to the wheel" "Oh"
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Sep 5, 2013 23:27
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I'm not sure how long he would last here, he's huge into drift culture, and uses sick epic catch phrasez a bit more than is tolerated around here. But his work is great and he's a good guy, he works more hours in a day than anyone else I know. The funniest part about all the pink stuff is that his car is so low you can barely see any of it. Oh and I forgot to mention, the downpipe added a whole new region of the torque curve, it starts to pull around 2k RPM now, much smoother and stronger overall. I'll probably take it to the next local group dyno day to see what's up. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 16:19
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LloydDobler posted:I'm not sure how long he would last here, he's huge into drift culture, and uses sick epic catch phrasez a bit more than is tolerated around here. But his work is great and he's a good guy, he works more hours in a day than anyone else I know. The funniest part about all the pink stuff is that his car is so low you can barely see any of it. You're running the stock sized turbo, right? It's amazing how much torque stock turbos can make with opening up the intake and exhaust, plus like you said, they wake up much earlier, too. Makes part-throttle driving so much more enjoyable.
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Sep 6, 2013 16:48
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Yeah, the 16T stock turbo. You're right, it is amazing how much more torque it makes and at virtually no expense in noise or driveability. Of course now for the first time I'm considering one last upgrade - swapping the turbo for the largest one that fits on this exhaust housing. Maybe next year.
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Sep 8, 2013 04:44
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Lloyd, on your soft top, do you have any separation of the top from the rear glass pane? I'm getting a bit of separation of the interior fabric layer from the glass. It isn't compromising anything (yet...) but I'm trying to figure out how to fix it. Any advice? Or should I start saving for a replacement? Also, digging the exhaust upgrades. So much nicer than the dustbuster noise mine makes.
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Sep 8, 2013 19:54
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Sorry I didn't see your post and reply Utopian Mind. But I'll be no help anyway, my cars were/are too new and always garaged so I have yet to experience any separation from the glass. I'm sure it requires special adhesive and that's about it. Cut/scrape off the old and apply the new. Just posting to keep this out of the archives, I am still waiting for the tuner to get his remote software loader done rather than ship my ECU back and forth to Oregon. The fall weather here was fantastic, and I've put several thousand miles on the car now even though it still has problems. The tuner claims to have the problems sorted out, but rather than gamble on mail damage shipping my ECU yet again, I'm going to keep waiting for the remote loader, as I suspect he'll have two or three more attempts before it's really right. Others who've done this swap on this generation of car are reporting no cruise control, and since I went to the extra expense and labor of putting the switch and wiring in I'm going to insist on his best effort to make it work. I'm planning some road trips that I want to use this car for, and driving across Utah with no cruise control will suck. I lost my 122 thread to the archives, missed an update by a day or two and I can't get it back. But I'm not doing anything too exciting there either, outside of a transmission swap that I'm doing just for testing that will net me a few hundred bucks if the donor trans still works well. I'll start a new thread for that when I attack the turbo motor swap. I'm thinking I start on that next fall.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:37
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I'm happy to see updates; I miss my Volvos now though.
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Dec 3, 2013 02:33
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One more anti archive bump, the tuner says he now has remote software so I don't have to mail him my ecu, and he says he thinks he has the rest of the code ready. I would have waited until I had results but my timing is just a week or two late so, bump.
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Feb 28, 2014 19:52
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LloydDobler posted:One more anti archive bump, the tuner says he now has remote software so I don't have to mail him my ecu, and he says he thinks he has the rest of the code ready. I would have waited until I had results but my timing is just a week or two late so, bump. How broke is it now?
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May 22, 2014 20:27
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Your timing is funny because it's been 3 months and I was already going to post tonight to again keep it out of the archives. And it happens to be my birthday. Still waiting for the tuner. We did have one session 4 weeks ago where he remote logged in to my laptop which was hooked to the car. He then read some data from the car, but the software could not talk to the parts that get programmed. So that session ended with him saying he'd go talk to his interface guys and push harder to get this working. I pinged him this week again and he said they're working on it but it's still not ready. I am getting a bit fed up at this point and have begun to take other action. I mean, it has been 18 months. I posted in the general Volvo megathread that I found a wrecked 04 convertible at auction that was a factory manual. I tried to buy it complete but it went for too much money. Then the buyer posted a classified ad parting it out, so I asked for all the computers and locks to convert my car to factory manual. At first he said no because he was planning to do the same to a 2000 wagon, but later found out that the 04 is too different from 00. So they became available again, and I bought them. I should have had them already but a mail snafu got them sent back to him, we straightened it out today. So if all goes well I'll have them next week. The end result if it works like it's supposed to, is that I'll have a true ECU from a manual car which will work properly with no headaches, and will even load the right factory software if I have to get it reloaded at a dealer. Then I can tune it. I was going to wait to post this update until I got them and tested them but I'm running up against the archive time limit again, and the thread got bumped anyway. In the meantime, I found some OEM foglights on the classifieds for a decent price. I'll install them when I'm less lazy.  And I spent some time at a tire shop where I figured out that three of my wheels are bent. My last car had always had a chronic shaking problem - only at 50 mph - that I never bothered to track down, but when it followed me to this car I decided I'd had enough. Two wheels are slightly bent, one is the real culprit. So I trolled craigslist and found a nice set of Enkeis with Pirelli tires for a "half retail" price.    And with that the car rolls smooth as glass like it was always meant to. I love a good 5 split spoke wheel. So now I will dismount my other brand new tires and save them for the wagon (which uses tires faster than this car), and measure the runout of the R wheels, and see exactly what's up. Then I will negotiate with the wheel repair shop that was supposed to straighten them last summer when I had 3 of them refinished and straightened. If they can't be straightened then I'll sell them cheap with full disclosure to some kid who wants pretty wheels but can't afford straight ones. If they can straighten them then I'll turn them around for a market price. They're still a very desirable wheel, but I think I'm done with them anyway. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 05:54
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Awesome, happy birthday. Was megasquirt not an option for you? Are aftermarket ECU options pretty much just reflashes of the stock one? Edit: also, saw this and thought of you. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/4478590011.html Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:11 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 14:00
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Yeah, the only way on the market to modify these cars is to reflash the stock ecu. And the manufacturer has tried to make that as difficult as possible as an anti-theft measure. Standalone would be way over my head quite frankly. I'm not sure how people do that on bus networked cars, but the ABS, Cruise, hell even the convertible top operation is all networked and tied to the ecu. Like if the car rolls while the top is operating, the top will stop moving and beep at you. I think I'd probably lose even more function of the car if I tried to bypass the ecu. And I can't imagine it being possible without serious programming skill, which I don't have.
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May 23, 2014 16:01
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Some cars you can do a parallel install, using the stock ECU for some things and the MS for fuel/spark. But that's probably just a larger 
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May 23, 2014 17:37
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Finally got the parts delivered from the 04 C70 manual that I bought almost a month ago. Kinda pissed considering I paid a decent price for these and he appeared to dink around on the shipping. He also forgot one piece I asked for but it turns out it was unnecessary. Here they are:  A little hassle in that you have to take the dash cap off to swap instrument clusters.  But... IT RUNS! Perfect, no hassle swap. No CELs or anything. Almost anticlimactic. So tomorrow I have to drill out the ignition cylinder bolts to swap that over and I can drive it. For the rest I can just carry the second key until I take the time to swap all those over. Before I do all that though, I'm going to try one more thing. Last year when this whole thing started, I sent the tuner both my ECUs to see which would be better/easier to tune, the 03 and the IPD tuned 04 from the wreck. Knowing what I know now, it is very easy to trip the immobilizer just by reading the codes out, which is exactly what he did. So while I have everything torn apart with easy access, I'm going to try and see if the IPD softloader will reset the immobilizer in that computer, so I can have a backup setup as well. That ECU is the same version as the one I just bought so it can be cloned. I like the idea of extra parts. Plus it's already tuned for power which gives me some options. I'm curious if IPD had the cruise working all along and I never knew because I didn't have the clutch switch installed. Anyway, I'm no longer tied to this tuner, and am going to explore all my options including seeking a refund for all this hassle. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 06:37
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Wow, what a hassle, and for what? To prevent people from stealing computer modules? Or is it just a way to guarantee dealer service? Anyways glad you're getting somewhere.
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Jun 1, 2014 09:48
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CharlesM posted:Or is it just a way to guarantee dealer service? The more proprietary/complicated, the more likely the buyers will either a)go to the dealer for service or b)just get a new car to avoid the expense of going to a dealer for the "expensive European car problems" that happen when a car gets older. New BMWs require a computer reset just to replace the loving battery. And that's if you replace the battery like-for-like. If you change the amp rating? Well, that's a whole 'nother computer adaptation procedure and that costs you more money, too. For what reason? I can't find any, other than the dealer tie thing. It doesn't make the batteries last any longer (the car uses an algorithm to increase the charging amps over time to supposedly compensate for a weakening battery due to age)... so what other reason is there?
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Jun 1, 2014 10:57
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In this case it really is anti-theft. The ECUs were/are $1200 retail, so by tying it in to other boxes and the key it basically makes a stolen ECU worthless. This morning I dug in and tried my IPD tuned ECU, my goal was to use the IPD flashing software to rewrite the immobilizer code. Well, the software is smarter than that, and saw the code was locked out, and basically shut down. So outside intervention will be required if I ever want that to work again. So I put the new hardware back in the car and got to work on putting the dash back together. I changed the ignition lock cylinder which required removing the steering wheel and all the column electronics, then put all that back together and capped off the dash. Then I drove the car around for several hours, putting over 100 miles on it. One of the first things I tested was the cruise control, it works! That was one of my primary goals this time, so now I have it. I drove it long enough for it to throw a code for the aftermarket cat I'm running. It seems to be right on the border, it says it's an intermittent error. I'm going to try an O2 sensor spacer and see if that fixes it. If not I'll have to get a rear O2 delete programmed in with whatever I do next for the tune. Then tonight I got a really abnormal burst of motivation and spent an hour swapping the rest of the locks on the car, so now the whole thing is re-keyed. The glove box was easy, the door handle was sort of easy, the trunk, while easy, was very tedious. The rear of the trunk is actually a plastic trim panel that screws on from the inside, and it covers the lock cylinder so the whole thing has to come apart to change it. Still took less than an hour. So now the car is fully re-keyed to match the new hardware. And it's running a stock tune. Powerful, but needs more. Now I have to figure out if I'm going to keep trying to work with the guy who failed to tune the other one correctly or just spend more money elsewhere. Sorry for the lack of photos, I was in a groove.
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Jun 2, 2014 07:37
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Well done. I know the lack of pictures problem. I'll finish up a project and go to upload--"wait, I only took four pictures the entire time?"
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Jun 2, 2014 13:31
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Now that my car is 100% stock and functional, I asked the tuner for a refund, and at first they offered me half in store credit. I happened to be going on vacation to Oregon last week, so I swung by his shop and restated my case face to face. We worked something out, it wasn't a cash refund (as their very poorly received policy states) but bottom line is that I'm satisfied and I'm done with them. I have no major hard feelings but I can honestly say it's clear that doing manual swap programming is extremely difficult which is why it's hard to find anyone who will even touch it. The only way I can recommend doing it is to find a manual parts car and yank the computers and keys like I did. And I can confirm on my generation of car all you need is those 3 boxes and the key. So with that business settled, last night I got a JZW tune, as he's only a one hour drive away. He really knows his stuff and his customer service is top notch. First gear has more takeoff torque than it's ever had, and we did a conservative bump throughout the rest of the gears. He told me that if I want more I can go back and update it for no extra charge, and I will as the car is calibrating itself to slightly lower boost than targeted, around 16 psi. We were shooting for 18. But the overall driveability is amazing, smooth boost roll-on and I can hear my CBV pop off in a really satisfying way. The guy is new to the Volvo scene but he's been tuning Saab, Audi/VW/Porsche and BMW cars for a while now, and boasts the fastest Saab in North America. He's pushing around 750HP out of the little 2.0 four banger. His best is a 10.61 quarter mile, and that's at 5800 ft altitude. My last go fast mods are now in the mail, an aluminum drop-in intercooler and a Snabb reverse intercooler piping kit. For those not in the Volvo world, when Volvo launched the 850 the intercooler piping went over the motor to the top center of the intercooler, then up from the bottom straight into the intake, like this:  It was a very efficient system, so efficient that in colder climates it would cause the throttle body to ice up, sticking the throttle open. To fix it they ordered a recall, reversing the piping to a much longer route over the engine to the bottom of the intercooler, then down into the intake from the top, like this:  The lower efficiency solved their icing problem at the expense of performance. One of our volvo club guys worked at a dealer back in 1994 and he said they threw away hundreds of the original intercooler piping kits during the recall. Now people make and sell them as a performance upgrade for $300-$400 apiece. One of those "If only I'd known" kinds of things. With the car tuned and these mods installed I should be able to call the car complete outside of dent removal and detailing. What sucks is that I went waaaaaaay over budget, not including the money wasted on mistakes. Oh well. I'll post photos of the intercooler install when I get around to putting it in. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jun 26, 2014 06:41
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Glad you got the ECU issues worked out. I just bought a 2000 V70R and an M66 swap is tempting, but it doesn't seem like it's a realistic option given the problems that you (and others) have experienced with ARD. Speaking of the VR, it has a great interior but the driver's seat bolster is a little worn-what was the product you used to re-dye yours?
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Jun 26, 2014 16:57
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I live in Portland and used to be into the Volvo scene. Any hints about what shop it was? (I have PM if you don't want to post in public)
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Jun 26, 2014 18:20
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Your volvo is awesome and I can see why you went over budget, shame it doesn't have dual exhausts but at least it looks stock, hope you get better luck with this one, take good care of it. If you need any euro parts you can't source let me know as I live near a volvo dealership.
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Jul 1, 2014 00:51
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zundfolge posted:Glad you got the ECU issues worked out. I just bought a 2000 V70R and an M66 swap is tempting, but it doesn't seem like it's a realistic option given the problems that you (and others) have experienced with ARD. Sorry, I'd have to ask my friend what it is. It's just some interior dye that happened to perfectly match, that he used on his car. As for the manual swap, what I would do in your position is watch the classifieds for a 2000 C70 manual being parted out, and then offer around $300-$400 for the parts I listed above, and see if the car will run with them. If so, you'll have to get it tuned to bring the power back up but you'll be set for a manual swap. On the other hand, 2000 V70Rs are the manual swap that ARD has done the most so far, I can give you the forum ID of at least one other if you want to find out his opinion. CountOfNowhere posted:I live in Portland and used to be into the Volvo scene. Any hints about what shop it was? (I have PM if you don't want to post in public) I had no real reason to keep it secret other than I figured 90% of readers wouldn't care. It was ARD as Zundfolge pointed out. Sh4 posted:Your volvo is awesome and I can see why you went over budget, shame it doesn't have dual exhausts but at least it looks stock, hope you get better luck with this one, take good care of it. If you need any euro parts you can't source let me know as I live near a volvo dealership. Thanks man! And now time for the last big update. This is ARD's drop-in replacement intercooler. It is decently made but there are a few things that could have been done a bit better.  First, I decided to just get all this crap out of the way to make the install as simple as possible. To get to this state took around 30 minutes, it's really not bad once you know what to unplug and unbolt. The bumper is 6 screws in the fenders, 2 nuts for the wipers, 2 main bolts, and plugs for the ambient air temp sensor and fog lights. The headlight panel is 13 bolts, 2 screws, and several electrical plugs. You also have to undo the cross wire for the hood release. But again, it comes off quick.  Next I removed the top intercooler piping, the radiator fan, and the intake duct.  This is the clearance between the A/C condenser and the front cross beam of the chassis. I wanted to note this because I realized as I got into this kit the stock radiator does not move, the thicker intercooler moves the condenser forward. If it rubs I'll have to cut or bend this cross beam.  The rest of the intercooler piping gone:  And it's out! Here's the difference between the stock intercooler and the new one. I forgot to measure them but it's in the ballpark of 1.25 inches versus 2.25.  and with the radiator shoved back towards the engine, this went in about as easily as the other one came out. Not too bad really.  First problem: the screws in the kit were too long. If I'd tightened them down I'd have punched a hole in my radiator end tanks. Take note anyone else using this kit.  After a minute with the dremel, all 4 screws are now short enough to work. Tightening everything bends the nice soft aluminum flanges into place. I'd worry about overstressing the plastic except for how soft this aluminum really is. I'd have preferred they made them to the right dimension but it is what it is.  And with it bolted back up, the radiator is shoved as far rearward on its mounting holes as it will go, there's about 1/8" clearance left. No mods to the body needed.  Wider shot of the same thing.  Now on to the Snabb RIP kit. My god, what have I done?  The instructions say to start by assembling this:  This is a decently done and clever way to attach the factory sensors.  Installed under the manifold and hooked up. I had to sort of twist that hose into place but it's rubber, that's what it does.  This was far easier to tighten with the radiator fan out of the way.  And now for my first problem: The bottom elbow is too short for this application, but it's the intercooler's fault. I discovered that the lower port is actually in the wrong place, about an inch to the left when compared to stock. But I did flex everything enough to make it work.  Second problem: Got the over-engine pipe installed, but it appears to be a little too short. It is only clearing the intake manifold by about 1/16" and I had to clamp the silicone coupling on the beads of the tubes rather than behind them.  Third problem: Putting the headlight support back on, there are two molded ribs that hit the top of the intercooler. I had to take it off and grind the ribs down. This did solve the problem though.  Fourth problem: The horn bolts hit the condenser due to it being moved forward. I wanted to relocate the horns anyway. The wires are long enough and now they don't block air flow.  Here you can just barely see the ribs I had to grind off, towards the center right of the picture.  Fifth problem, this little water shield for the intake had to be shortened. You can see where I dug it into the condenser accidentally.  Sixth problem, this air intake had to be trimmed to fit around the corner of the intercooler.  Here's the hole it goes in. The old intercooler did not protrude like that.  Here's a shot showing how close the over-engine pipe is to the intake manifold.  And this is where I stopped monday night. I was absolutely exhausted.  Continuing tonight, I installed some used factory fog lights I found in the classifieds.  Because of the lower intercooler port being in the wrong place I also had to trim the air guide that goes under behind the bumper.  And boom. All done.  So with that I took it for a test drive. I can't tell if it builds boost quicker or if that's just my butt dyno telling me it does, but either way the car performs outstandingly well now. Only one problem - I appear to have a boost leak at one of the joints, as I get a constant frequency buzzing or whistling noise at full boost and only at full boost. And only sometimes, like if I let off the gas and reapply quickly it goes away. It sounds like a balloon or a reed in a saxaphone, but it's slightly metallic as well. I'll have to go through and see if I can find it by re-tightening all the connections and moving stuff around. But it doesn't appear to be affecting performance, so it might be mechanical. I'll update if it turns out to be something bad like the compressor wheel grinding against the housing. The car is now done. I started this thread in late August 2012, and only now does it feel like I can move on to something else, and just enjoy this car with routine maintenance. Nothing left to wait for. Also now that it's done I do want to cosmetically clean it up a little, the headlight glass is foggy and the paint has some scratches that could use some love. Some PDR and a good buffing are in order. I can still order a pre-painted bumper cover from Volvo but it's now a $600 proposition so we'll have to wait and see just how far I want to take it. My original budget was around $6000-$7000. (I started at $5350 just re-acquiring the two cars) I extended that to $8000 when I bought the LSD, and once I saw that I needed a complete front suspension rebuild I just quit worrying and splurged on everything, and in the end not counting wasted money on mistakes and extra tires (which I'll use later), I'm into this car now for just over $10k. I still came out ahead of the insurance settlement, but I'm not debt free like I was when I started. Such is the price one pays for the love of auto. And one more pic, a nice mean looking angle from a meet we had Saturday: 
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 06:26
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LloydDobler posted:The car is now done. I can't remember the last time someone said this here on a project this long. Congrats. 
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Jul 2, 2014 06:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:I can't remember the last time someone said this here on a project this long. Congrats. Seriously. I say we sticky this thread and rename it "HOLY gently caress, ONE OF US FINISHED A PROJECT!"
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Jul 2, 2014 14:55
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bandman posted:"HOLY gently caress, ONE OF US FINISHED A PROJECT!" 2nd-ed Glad to see the project was completed on a happy note. Congrats!
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Jul 2, 2014 15:31
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Not to brag, but this is like my 4th or 5th finished project. Muahahaha. Bow before me, peasants! Drove it to work today, the buzzing noise is going to drive me loving nuts. Like undo my work until I find the source of the problem nuts.
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Jul 2, 2014 15:49
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LloydDobler posted:Not to brag, but this is like my 4th or 5th finished project. Muahahaha. Bow before me, peasants! Hopefully it's a quick/easy thing. I would go straight to the handful of couplers that didn't fit so well because of the changes with the intercooler.
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Jul 2, 2014 16:13
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LloydDobler posted:Not to brag, but this is like my 4th or 5th finished project. Muahahaha. Bow before me, peasants! Glad you're finished. When will we have progress on the other car! ? 
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Jul 3, 2014 01:28
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Which other car? Muahahaha! My next project actually will be a major preventative maintenance rebuild of my daily driver wagon. Most of the front end rubber is shot, so I'm going to do subframe mounts, motor mounts, halfshafts, all engine seals, clutch, flywheel, PCV, probably timing belt and water pump, oil pump, oil pump seals, and probably switch to an all aluminum radiator and intercooler. Gonna cost a pretty penny, but still less than a replacement car. It already started a little early with a Quaife LSD. A guy on swedespeed was selling a low mileage tranny with the quaife already installed, including new seals and a new slave cylinder, and shifter cables all for less than the price of the quaife itself. I couldn't pass it up. He sold the car it was going into so he just wanted it gone. I got it this week. I found myself shopping for a new wagon, when I kind of just realized that I already have the wagon I want, I just need to refresh it so it's strong again and then beef it up a bit beyond that. It's been 100% trouble free for almost two years now. 3 cars is really too much but it breaks my heart to think of selling any of them. The logical choice is to sell the '66 but I'd never forgive myself. I'd really like to drive that car till I die.
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Jul 3, 2014 04:01
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I'm amazed that while P2 Volvos might be terribly lacking in internal gizmos (compared to all new cars), on the exterior they're still a very modern design. I guess they also tend to be well maintained due to the rich safety soccer mom stereotype. Your wagon is a p2 right?
Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 13:20
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LloydDobler posted:Not to brag, but this is like my 4th or 5th finished project. Muahahaha. Bow before me, peasants! Your white 960 project was the reason I payed for a forums subscription, and also the reason I later bought a black 960. Thanks for all the cool stuff over the years!
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Jul 3, 2014 15:17
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MoraleBuddy posted:Your white 960 project was the reason I payed for a forums subscription, and also the reason I later bought a black 960. Thanks for all the cool stuff over the years! Wow, you're welcome. Yeah that was a great car, it looked so pristine when I was done. If it was a wagon I'd still be driving it. My daughter even loved it, it's the only car that made her mad at me for selling it. Suicide Watch posted:I'm amazed that while P2 Volvos might be terribly lacking in internal gizmos (compared to all new cars), on the exterior they're still a very modern design. I guess they also tend to be well maintained due to the rich safety soccer mom stereotype. Your wagon is a p2 right? Yep. They look super cool lowered too. Like the opposite of my convertible, from the rear it doesn't look lowered, but the P2 wagons look low even when stock. Lower it just a bit and it looks absolutely sick from behind.
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Jul 3, 2014 21:38
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