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Musket
Mar 19, 2008
You forgot the part where Nikon used to make glass for Canon in your history section.

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Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Krakkles posted:

I will find an Fx camera someday.


(not FX, as in full frame, but Fx, as in F2/3/4/5/6.)

I keep seeing F5's and F3HPs on my local CL for dirt cheap.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Radbot posted:

I have an F4s and it could quite literally be used as a lethal weapon, it's ridiculous. I think the best Nikon film camera is the F100 - durable, weather sealed, pro feel, lots of gadgets (including metering with manual focus lenses, I believe), and it's cheap. The FM2 is sexy as hell, but I just don't buy that it's that much more reliable than an F100 with an extra set of batteries.

F5 is more weapon than the F4s could ever dream to be and more reliable than anything Nikon ever made besides the all mechanical FM2 :colbert:

Lets list off some of Canons amazin.... I cant even say that with a straight face.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Doggles posted:

I'm looking to upgrade my zoom lens. Currently I have the 55-300mm DX lens and I'd like to move up to the 70-200mm 2.8 lens.

I've gotten to use the Nikon version of the lens and it's fantastic, but is there any reason not to go with the Tamron or Sigma versions considering they're less than half the price?

I have used a friends current generation Tameron 70-200 2.8 NON VR and i was very happy with its results on DX. Lighter than the 80-200 AF-D Onetouch.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Doggles posted:

Nice, had no idea about the 80-200 version until now. That's going into the consideration pool as well.

Both my 18-105 and 55-300 have vibration reduction so I may try turning that off and seeing how my shots come out to see if I've really been needing that feature. Although I know being able to go up to f/2.8 as opposed to the f/5.6 I've been used to will be a huge help.

You will probably need VR if your doing a ton of lowlight shooting and cant push your iso up high.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

8th-samurai posted:

The 35mm f/1.4 AIS Nikkor is not a good lens. It's only draw was that it was faster than any other 35mm you could get for your Nikon. If you are gonna go the AIS lens route just get a 35 or 28mm f/2. You seriously won't miss the extra stop on a modern cameraand they are both sharp wide open.

He is correct, its a pretty underwhelming lens. Get the 28 or 35mm f/2. Regarding hacking the firmware, good luck. Most of the hacks are really crappy things like removing the 30min record time off the D5100 or changing the menus to have a star wars theme.

There really isnt a Magic Lantern Nikon firmware tweak like there is for Canon.

The only major feature Nikon has pushed in firmware updates are D2x color profiles 1-3.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

1st AD posted:

Firmware update should fix this!

http://nikonrumors.com/2012/11/08/upcoming-firmware-updates-for-nikon-d600-and-d800.aspx/

Too bad it'll probably be months before we see it.

As for the 35mm 1.4 AI-S, it's true that it is not as sharp as any modern 35mm lens. Wide open, it is all sorts of hazy. However, once you get to f2 it cleans up really nice, by f4 it performs well. I used this lens primarily on a GH2 so I was kind of immune to how lovely the corners were wide open.

I really hate bagging this lens though, I had it for a long time and it's really not that bad unless you have to shoot it at 1.4. Eventually I did replace it with a 35 f/2 D - focus barrel sucks and it's a plastic piece of poo poo in comparison, but it just performs better (and now I have a decent 35mm lens for photos).

If you gotta take the AIS 35mm 1.4 to f/2-f/4 before you start seeing tack sharp images, it makes sense to get the 35mm f/2 since its already drat sharp at f/2. It doesnt feel any cheaper than any AF-D plastic lens.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
D7000 or just wait until the D400/D7000xs or whatever Prosumer DX line is next unless your ready for financial leap such as full frame and lenses to meet your needs. 200mm is infact short on FX compared to DX.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Legdiian posted:

IIRC the D7000 and D5100 share the same sensor? Would I see a noticeable improvement in the autofocus department? Any difference in video modes? Does the D7000 do the same thing the D5100 does where you have to exit and re-enter live view mode when you change the aperture?

Your improvements would be Body Design and better AF when you go up from a D5xxx to a D7000. Unfortunately Nikon wants you to pay a premium for the features you want.

Also get in the habit of trashing bad images. Nothing you do will make a bad photo good besides posting it overly processed into the street thread.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

BonoMan posted:

My D600 came in. So excited. Now I'm just waiting on the lenses to arrive. Plus the memory cards that apparently fell out of the box during shipping. Thanks UPS!

So right now I'm just reading up on the manual and charging the battery. Which reminds me...is there anything to pay attention to when charging the battery? I left it charging overnight and forgot to take it out this morning before I left for work. I know some folks always recommend not "over charging" batteries in general, but I've never been able to get a definitive answer on that.

Nikon is also worried about batteries "overcharging" which is why every time you format your memory card the camera also discharges any extra power your batteries may have stored for being on the charger too long.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Goldmund posted:

Can anyone recommend a book for the d7000? There are several to choose from out there.

Everybody Poops. It will prepare you for all teh poo poo images your about to post. :iceburn:

Idiots guide to D7000 or the Chiltons Car manual for a 1977 VW Beatle

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Reichstag posted:

Seriously though, what in the world do you need to learn about your camera that you need another book in addition to the manual?

I need pretty pictures to understand how to turn on Auto Iso :colbert: Its clear you have never RTFM Reichstag.

If you need more than this, return the D7000 and buy a Canon Elph. http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/nikon-d7000-for-dummies-cheat-sheet.html

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

BonoMan posted:

My D600 is definitely overexposing like that article someone posted. At least I think it is. Taking low light pics of my wife (giggity) in our living room. My meter is balanced evenly, but the pictures definitely feel a stop or two brighter.

Chances are the issue is between shutter button and the back of your skull.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

borkencode posted:

I've got a D600, which of course has the dust/oil issue that seems endemic to them. What do I do about this? Will Nikon fix it under warranty? I'm over 3000 shots, so according to the internet no new spots should develop, but I have no idea what to do.

Chances are, no. Sensor cleanings are cheap.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
I honestly dont think you understand how to properly use Nikons Metering system.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
You can only say RTFM so many ways before all thats left is snark.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Nikon Matrix Metering has its use. Its a good set it and forget it setting but its prone to the faults by the user. One of the drawbacks of letting the camera think for you.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Thanks for posting your ebay sale. :dogout:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Aramek posted:

So, I'm poor and own a D3100 because I'm firmly and forever set in the hobbyist basket of all this, and I've never owned a flash. (Speedlight? Strobe?) So, thinking ahead, I'm planning on getting one in the Spring when my tax return comes in. Was reading the Lighting thread, but, I've got a lot more to read as I'm getting lost on some of the hardware.

Because I only have the D3100 model, which lacks some features, for instance an internal AF screw, is there anything I should look for in a flash to be able to do off-body lighting? For example, I don't think mine can do wireless communication, as I had to get a corded remote to fire it that way, as the wireless one proudly stated that it wouldn't work with the D3100. :smith:

I've been working with some pretty cheap/spartan lighting. Bought one of those white diffuser umbrellas and a 20 dollar 500 watt halogen work light from a local hardware store, but, that thing gets so hot that, within a couple minutes, everything starts to smell like "heat", so, a real flash sounds like a pretty useful tool.

Digging through Amazon, the SB-700 looks pretty good, but, what other gear would I need to be able to fire this off-body? Some sort of coily cord I'd imagine that attaches to the shoe?
http://www.amazon.com/Strato-Wireless-Trigger-Set-Nikon/dp/B0056MPWZU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1355325353&sr=1-2

Allow you to fire your flash wireless up to 100m.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Mr. Despair posted:

Does the sb-700 sync on other flashes? I know my yongnuo can use the onboard flash to trigger, so I've gotten by with setting the onboard flash to minimum power and letting the offboard flash do all the work.

Otherwise you can get cheap wireless triggers like this http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-...ireless+trigger

but i'm not sure you'll keep functionality like i-TTL though.

e. Mustket's trigger option looks much nicer in that regard.

Gotta go full manual brah with those as well as the Phottix. The main difference besides cost and build quality is that if you mount the popper to the hotshoe then a flash on top of it, it will do TTL pass-through, it will not TTL pass to your umbrellas though.

SB700 will fire your other flashes if they are wireless/optical slave but... you gotta trigger the SB700 somehow and the D3100 cannot command CLS. Powderfici is pretty spot on, if you cant use your body to trigger CLS and dont have an SU-800 commander its best to look at the Yongnuo flash heads and wireless triggers.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Aramek posted:

Yeah, nothing special, only of my lenses that can be considered fast are the 1.8 primes, the 35 and the 50. I use the 35 the vast majority of the time as I have no AF screw, the 50 I got is manual only. I was a lot dumber about photography when I first got it. Still pretty dumb, but, hey. :v:

So the Yongnuo YN-560 II and the Strato II Wireless 5 in 1 that were linked sound like they'd work. What I've always wanted to shoot was this Caravaggio light style that I've seen some photographers do. Like, the room/subject itself is really dark with a strong off body flash being the only light coming in sideways. Maybe someday I can figure out how to do that, but, those two pieces of gear would be the best starting point?

See, I dunno if my camera can do TTL or not. Playing with the options, it does have several metering choices (I just leave it on Matrix so far) I just noticed that the wireless shutter remote didn't respond with it. I saw some of the third party ones too, but, I seem to remember reading in the comments that they didn't work for the D3100 either.

As for subjects, I just wanna be able to shoot friends/family/stuff/dog without it looking like total rear end. Usually dog. Dog is most of my photos it seems.
Your camera does TTL, but few radio triggers will allow TTL Pass-through. That feature is why Pocket Wizards cost so much drat money besides the fact they are drat near 100% reliable.

The Yongnuo and StratoII combo will allow you to do dog/friend/stuff/family photos with off camera lighting. You will need to play with flash settings to figure out the right amount of light you want but thats stuff you can learn via trial and error or http://strobist.blogspot.com/ or http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Shoe-Diaries-Light-Flashes/dp/0321580141 or our very own lighting thread.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Show us your catte.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Legdiian posted:

Coming from a D5100, am I correct in thinking that that lens on the D600 would be the equivalent of 16-56 lens on a D5100? So slightly wider than my 18-55 kit lens? That's a really good price right?

28-80 on FX is still 28-80 on DX. Field of View changes.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
You didnt cover 4x5 or 8x10 sized sensors. Not impressed :colbert:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

krooj posted:

I kinda, sorta want Nikon to release non-junk mirrorless bodies that take regular F-mount, akin to the X-series from Fuji. It would be doubly awesome if they could get a 20MP+ FX sensor in such a body, and I doubt it would harm their DSLR business.

Oh, and I finally bought a 24-70 f/2.8 for myself. It's a great lens, but holy gently caress, it's the size of a thermos.

No, let Nikon keep making lovely bridge cameras to fund FX consumer lines. If you want a fullframe compact from nikon in Fmount, get an FE and 40mm pancake or an Nikon S rangefinder. But only if that rangefinder is stamped Made in Occupied Japan, anything less is scrubtier.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

MrBlandAverage posted:

It's okay, we understand. You don't have things like "movements" or "bellows" on your puny tiny-format cameras. :smugdog:

The gently caress i dont, i can install a MF/LF bellows and movement system and use MF/LF lenses on my D600. Its ridiculously expensive and a waste of MF/LF glass. :snoop:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Paul MaudDib posted:

Nikon rangefinders aren't in F-mount :colbert:

True but they are compact and FX and cheaper than going with an M6, 35mm 1.4 Summilulz

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Thats what you get for using a G lens brah. Very little compatibility. 28-70 AF-S :snoop:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
That sweet f/22.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Mr. Despair posted:

N75 supremacy (even VR works)

Thats right, totally forgot about that.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

FasterThanLight posted:

You'd be surprised, Nikon RF stuff is pretty drat expensive. They're very hard to find (especially in usable condition) and not as many repair technicians work on them.

http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Nikon-S-35mm-Rangefinder-Film-Camera-Body-Only-/83185393

Cheap compared to a $5000 lens.

Here is one with 50mm 1.4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-S-Nik...=item35c22bcd9e

You are right about how hard they are to get fixed.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
If your worried about your gear breaking, get loving insurance :colbert: not some stupid geeksquad plan.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Legdiian posted:

Any suggestions? What would I expect to pay for coverage that would cover accidental damage? Like dropping it on the pavement.

Do you have renters insurance? Call your agent or you can look for an in-land marine policy if you make a most of your income off photos.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
:snoop:ISO 4000, f.95 1/8000th. Set flash to 5x power:snoop:

YOU'RE WELCOME.
this is wrong


With a manual flash you will have trial and error until you get good at really guessing exposure. In a poorly lit room, im at f5.6, iso 400 1/250th and get decent results. Hope that gives you a good jumping off point.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

ShadeofBlue posted:



I'm a bit surprised that you have go to ISO 400 indoors, Musket. Is that with the flash at max power?

It really depends on where i am and the overall light. Most of the time, thats my starting point. If i have my flash in manual I sometimes run at 1/2, again its very situational. Most of the time I just run with the flash set on cruise control (AutoFP/TTL).

Krakkles: Think of all the bokey. You play around with ISO and Aperture to get that creamy bokey when you drag the shutter, brah.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Full power grid that poo poo and shoot at f/4.5 rear curtain. Club girls will love you.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

FISHMANPET posted:

So on my D5100, do I only have two choices for Auto-ISO, always or never? On full auto I guess I'd like auto ISO, but in other modes probably not? It just seems silly that in all the settings it shows a manual ISO but it never uses it.

Is this the firmware bug that Ken Rockwell mentions on this page under the Manual exposure section?



Its not a bug its not a firmware defect its an intended "feature". If you turn auto ISO on, the camera assumes you the USER knows how to turn it off when you swap modes. Ken Rockwell is just bitching to bitch. If he had his way, every camera would be able to read user minds.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

BANME.sh posted:

Somewhat of a DSLR newbie here. Can somebody explain to me the whole crop sensor stuff? I have a D5100 and I recently bought the 50mm f/1.8 G lens. It works great and takes amazing photos, but I understand that I am not getting the full frame? Should the lens be DX or do I need a fancier camera?

Before anyone posts a more confusing reply, you should not bother to worry about this kind of stuff yet. Just shoot and work on properly using manual mode.


Your 50mm lens is still 50mm, its field of view is tighter due to the DX sensor size. This isnt a case of "Dad bought a new wide screen tv and is now freaking out about those black bars on the top and bottom when he watches a movie".

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

BANME.sh posted:

I noticed the 50mm has a very "zoomed in" look, but everywhere I read said that 50mm lenses are the most natural looking so I figured that's normal. Though that's not true for a crop sensor camera like mine? And I'd get a better "natural" look from a ~30mm (35mm?) lens instead? It's not a huge deal, I'd just like to know what's going on. Thanks for the replies.


I do sometimes :sigh:

Ill just tuck this away here. http://photographylife.com/equivalent-focal-length-and-field-of-view

Until you purchase an FX camera it might be best to stick to DX lenses.

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Musket
Mar 19, 2008

BANME.sh posted:

I got the kit 18-55mm one already. Great for outdoor stuff, but can't compete with f/1.8 for indoors :D

Proper flash use would like a word with you :colbert:

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