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aliencowboy posted:If you're looking for a film body to pack away in your bag as a secondary camera, buy an FM2. Small, light, fully manual, meters up to ISO 6400 and probably indestructible. Steve McCurry used one, so all your bad pictures with it are your own fault.
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Nov 20, 2012 11:47
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:54 |
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Beastruction posted:Isn't that effectively zero though?
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Nov 21, 2012 01:17
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Digital Jesus posted:Is the D600's 28-85 kit lens any good? I'm thinking I'll just get the body and buy glass separately unless the kit lens is quality. I know the 5Dmk2 still comes with a 24-105 f4L for similar money and that's a nice lens. re at it. The 28-80/3.5-5.6 monkey talked about is actually amazing for what you'll pay, and so is the G version. Bonus points if you can get a silver version.
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Nov 22, 2012 11:11
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The 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 G AF-S is good too.
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Nov 22, 2012 13:08
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SoundMonkey posted:Also in response to your wrong-opinions post in the old thread, there is ONE more-expensive-kit-lens that would be a legitimate upgrade - if you have the 18-55, consider the 18-55 VR. The VR is great, it's not very expensive, and it's just a good lens for the price. I don't think any of the old film kits are really upgrade over the current dx version. Wide end versus far is preference, and the older lenses tend not to be stabilized. On a FX body they're great for providing cheap flexibility. Mightaswell posted:I hear the 28-70 AF-D 3.5-4.5 is also very good for the <100 you will pay for one.
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Nov 22, 2012 22:43
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Beastruction posted:35/1.8!
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Nov 23, 2012 02:55
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No. In the case the comparable third party lens (Sigma 30/1.4) is actually more expensive, and it's got issues of its own. Just get the Nikkor 35 from a good place like amazon or adorama.SoundMonkey posted:This is a Correct Opinion in this case. The 35/1.8 isn't like "the lens everyone should have". evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 11:38 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 11:35
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And they won't meter. Great for shooting video cheaply.
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Nov 25, 2012 10:00
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1st AD posted:They also kill your hard drive, goddamn.  Star War Sex Parrot posted:I've got almost 100TB worth of drives sitting at my desk waiting for purpose
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Nov 28, 2012 20:38
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I'd wait and at least try a Sigma 35/1.4, which comes with dazzling AUTOFOCUS. Both Nikon 35's are meh.
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Nov 29, 2012 03:48
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Yeah but the D800 can adjust aperture when recording, which the D600 can't. It's retarded.
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Nov 30, 2012 16:48
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BonoMan posted:edit: Now the live view aperture change IS something that can maybe be upgraded in the future via firmware correct? (as opposed to my 1080p@60 dream which was crushed).
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Nov 30, 2012 16:58
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BonoMan posted:Ouch. Yeah that's what I was saying when talking about fixing the frame-rate (although that is apparently an actual hardware limitation and not intentional gimping). Oh well.
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Nov 30, 2012 17:57
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krooj posted:but once you add a grip, the D800 gains a slight speed advantage
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Dec 3, 2012 17:09
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BonoMan posted:Plus the memory cards that apparently fell out of the box during shipping. Thanks UPS! All modern nikons come with smart chargers: when the battery's full they just stop charging (the LED will be on solid instead of blinking).
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Dec 5, 2012 17:39
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MrStaticVoid posted:Anyone know why Nikon hasn't started adding electromagnetic diaphragms to all of their new lenses?
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Dec 6, 2012 07:24
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Reichstag posted:Seriously though, what in the world do you need to learn about your camera that you need another book in addition to the manual?
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Dec 6, 2012 22:42
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1st AD posted:True story, I actually have no idea how to use the matrix metering with any degree of accuracy. I just set it to spot meter and point the camera at varying spots in the frame where brightness differs and make sure that nothing's gonna be too blown out.
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Dec 10, 2012 21:18
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powderific posted:The matrix metering on my D800 seems to overexpose somewhat regularly compared to the 5dII it replaced.
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Dec 11, 2012 04:00
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Aramek posted:So, I'm poor and own a D3100 because I'm firmly and forever set in the hobbyist basket of all this, and I've never owned a flash. (Speedlight? Strobe?) So, thinking ahead, I'm planning on getting one in the Spring when my tax return comes in. Was reading the Lighting thread, but, I've got a lot more to read as I'm getting lost on some of the hardware. Aramek posted:Because I only have the D3100 model, which lacks some features, for instance an internal AF screw, is there anything I should look for in a flash to be able to do off-body lighting? For example, I don't think mine can do wireless communication, as I had to get a corded remote to fire it that way, as the wireless one proudly stated that it wouldn't work with the D3100. Aramek posted:I've been working with some pretty cheap/spartan lighting. Bought one of those white diffuser umbrellas and a 20 dollar 500 watt halogen work light from a local hardware store, but, that thing gets so hot that, within a couple minutes, everything starts to smell like "heat", so, a real flash sounds like a pretty useful tool. Aramek posted:Digging through Amazon, the SB-700 looks pretty good, but, what other gear would I need to be able to fire this off-body? Some sort of coily cord I'd imagine that attaches to the shoe? If you want TTL, you need either the coily cord or TTL-capable wireless transceivers like these: http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/ Mr. Despair posted:Does the sb-700 sync on other flashes?
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Dec 12, 2012 16:40
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Aramek posted:See, I dunno if my camera can do TTL or not. Playing with the options, it does have several metering choices (I just leave it on Matrix so far) I just noticed that the wireless shutter remote didn't respond with it. I saw some of the third party ones too, but, I seem to remember reading in the comments that they didn't work for the D3100 either. TTL flash metering is basically the pre-firing the flash at a set (low) power, the camera meter measuring how much light comes back on top of ambient, and then computing how much flash power you need to reach the exposure value you've chosen, then telling the flash that, then triggering it when the shutter's open. You still haven't told us what you (want to) shoot. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 12, 2012 |
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Dec 12, 2012 17:35
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Aramek posted:I feel like answering this is some sort of trap and that I'll catch poo poo for not being a real photographer. But, mainly just portrait sort of stuff for my friends, family, but mostly my dog. (Unless I'm misunderstanding, and you're not meaning what subjects I want to shoot.)
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Dec 13, 2012 16:22
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Mightaswell posted:Also, don't buy Cameras at Best Buy. Support your local speciality stores.
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Dec 15, 2012 10:42
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Yeah that sounds terrible.
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Dec 15, 2012 16:18
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geetee posted:Pulled the trigger on a D600 and 50mm 1.4; upgrading from a D40.
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Dec 16, 2012 01:50
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I just used the Nikon cover. I put some standard tape on the edges though, so particles/sand don't sneak in.
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Dec 16, 2012 13:15
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I'd get a 90mm macro lens too. The Tamron SM mentions is cheap and great.
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Dec 16, 2012 21:47
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SoundMonkey posted:This is based on "absolutely no research" but if these are more than $250 used I'd be surprised. Just do make sure it has an internal motor, because D5100 (those don't have the screw, do they?).
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Dec 16, 2012 22:17
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The 60/2 is also p nice on DX.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:26
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SoundMonkey posted:Also am I crazy, or is the Tamron 1:1, whereas the 60mm tops out at 1:2?
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Dec 16, 2012 22:31
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Have you ever owned a (Nikon) slr before? Because it seems a lot of your questions could be answered by spending some quality time with your user manual.
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Dec 17, 2012 04:26
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Post pics. I just use a lightly damp cloth for the ergos/bodies, and a microfiber + prescription glass cleAning fluid I thieve from my wife for the glass. Works a treat.
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Dec 17, 2012 21:00
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krooj posted:Please design your grips with charging circuitry built in, such that they can simultaneously or successively charge both the battery in the camera and the grip rechargeable. If you didn't know, the way you currently power a D800 with AC is with this adapter, which replaces the internal battery. It would be nice if you could plug in the AC power block directly into the body, and charge any battery in the body/grip that way.
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Dec 20, 2012 14:06
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Set your body to deplete the grip batt first, that'll save you at least some trouble when you don't use both up. The cheaper Nikon bodies/ grips have a bracket that interfaces with the battery contacts in the body, but that's a shitton harder to weatherproof. I don't think having a DC interface on the grip is too much to ask TBH.
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Dec 20, 2012 15:08
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The dx00's have framelines, dx's blackout the unused sensor area I think? In any case framelines are better: lets you see what's coming into the frame as well.
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Dec 20, 2012 21:13
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1.8's are super cheap so yeah. FM2's pretty close to perfect.
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Dec 28, 2012 18:27
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When the light is good, color tracking (3D) works really well. Use the back button if you aren't already, point it at something, watch as the points follow it across the frame. When you want to get something off-center in focus you can just move the AF point instead of framing after focusing (which leads to focus errors).
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Jan 2, 2013 01:09
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None of the menus make perfect sense but auto-Iso isn't hard to understand. The viewfinder will show you the ISO chosen by the camera. You choose the base ISO when you use the button+dial.
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Jan 15, 2013 14:53
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Keep the 50 around for portraits, shoot a lot of those while you save for a 35.
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Jan 17, 2013 20:27
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:54 |
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Kit+35 is a great way to learn.
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Jan 17, 2013 22:58
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