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SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


FISHMANPET posted:

The Nikkor 35/1.8 and 50/1.8 are both pretty great, and only $200 a piece. I couldn't decide which one I wanted more, so I bought them both.

I've got the D5100 + 18-55 kit + the two primes plus another longer zoom I was talked into at the store, and I'm quite happy with it all, but this is also my first camera and I'm pretty dumb about photos in general.

Those are two pretty quality lenses. Wait, does the D5100 have a drive screw? Unless you got the 50 1.8G?

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SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


dukeku posted:

because lenses have a focal length, not a field-of-view

This, pretty much. If you're familiar with your sensor size (which you would be after like a day of shooting with any given camera body), you know what 24mm is going to look like when you look through the viewfinder. Also it would be pretty dumb to label lenses in terms of field of view, because no matter what sensor/film size you have, a 50mm lens has a focal length of 50mm and that's never going to change.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


This shouldn't influence your decision (buy the 35 it owns so hard), but the 50 is also useful in that you can reverse mount it and still have manual aperture control if you're doing macro stuff.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


echobucket posted:

I have the 50 1.8 G and I cannot do this. I can however take glorious pictures of my cattes with it.

You actually can, just not very precisely. Set aperture with lens mounted normally, hit DoF preview, look at roughly how big the aperture is, reverse mount it, press on the aperture tab until it looks about the same.

Not an exact science, but it's possible.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Mr. Despair posted:

You can do that with any lens.

The 50mm 1.8D does have the aperture ring, but I don't think it has a focus motor. If you're going to reverse mount I'd say to just get a cheap manual focus 50mm off of ebay or something, having an actual ring is real handy.

M42 lenses with the auto/manual switch are nice too, set the aperture to what you want, look through the viewfinder, and then flick it the lever and it'll stop down to whatever ring you have it set to. Same idea, but with less "winging it".

The D doesn't have the focus motor, no.

And yeah you can do that with any lens, I was just pointing out that all is not lost if he has the G version.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


MrMoose posted:

I definitely agree with what others said -- the 35/1.8 is great for catte photos.

Right as I finally summon up the effort to go take some 35/1.8 catpix, I realize I have absolutely no idea where my 35/1.8 is.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Dread Head posted:

Nikon does not release the standards for .NEF files from what I understand. That means is Adobe, Apple etc have to reverse engineer the RAW files (make educated guesses) which is why things will look different. At least this used to be the case not 100% sure if it still is but I would not be surprised.

It's gotten better over time but does still happen for newer RAW formats.

A lot of time it's just people sperging though, and god drat I can't stand ViewNX (I don't even have it installed I don't think).

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


DaJe posted:

Quick question about filters. Does anyone have a preferred brand with them? I was thinking of getting a circular polarizer to use on my 70-300mm (67mm filter size), especially since it's mostly used outside, and it might be nice to have on me come my trip to Australia in a few months. I have a cheap standard Tiffen filter for my smaller lenses, which I haven't really sued in 5 years.

Honestly I feel a little stupid, because I only just realised I can rotate it to adjust it for a better effect. I always just thought it was supposed to make things more vibrant all over (like polarized sunglasses or something, though to be fair I haven't sued it in 5 years, and never used it much at all back then.


So yeah, basically, is any particular brand good? Is it worth it to try to go for something higher quality? Would the $25 Tiffen one I found on Amazon be just fine?

As mentioned in some drat thread, Marumi DHG, some Hoya/Tiffen, B&W, etc.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


evil_bunnY posted:

I dunno if it has improved since then but I ditched it for LR after 30 minutes when I got my first Nikon. Japanese firms shouldn't be allowed near GUIs.

I'm not sure I've ever agreed with you before, but this is God's honest truth.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


1st AD posted:

I don't know about you guys but once I'm past 85mm or so there's no way I could handhold without doing 1/2xfocal length for shutter speed (assuming no IS of course).

Meanwhile I can handhold down to like 1/4 at 16mm.

You might want to get checked out for epilepsy.

It takes some practice, but you can handhold at absurdly low speeds after a while (I think the longest I ever did that wasn't blurred was 28mm at three full loving seconds). Somewhere on the Pentax forum (I know, I know) there's a good guide written by a marksman about how to hold a camera steady.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Eegah posted:

Yeah I can't wait to hunt around for that thing if I ever want to sell my D3100 :pwn:

I think that with that, much like the hotshoe cover, pretty much everyone expects that you lost it within moments of having the camera.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Beastruction posted:

But it'd be $20 as a first party accessory.

Six bucks, actually :v:

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Tusen Takk posted:

I have an F3 body sitting here that I'd love to get rid of if you're interested :swoon:

Take it to selling thread, do the needful, etc.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


evil_bunnY posted:

Less leakage, better directionality, better uniformity, can be harder/longer to setup, doesn't fold as small, generally more $.

- cannot be used to float to safety if falling from great heights

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


beergod posted:

So I bought an SB-700 from a local retailer today. Every time I turn it on it sort of makes a grinding sound and the Zoom says "ERR" on the LCD.

I'm assuming this is not normal? The camera store should accept the return, correct?

Yes, it's completely hosed, return it.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


toggle posted:

What is a good remote for time lapse/long exposure stuffs for a D7000? (apologises if this has been asked already)

They dropped the ten-pin connector from the D7000, didn't they? There used to be so incredibly many cheap options (still, check GadgetInfinity just in case). Normally I'm all about buying quality gear, but it's pretty hard to gently caress up a timer/intervalometer.

Your D7000 should be able to do time lapse (as in interval shooting, in Nikon's words) internally though.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


snuffles posted:

You can pick up an MC-36 knockoff and adapter for just a few :10bux: off ebay, though like SoundMonkey said you should be able to do time lapse in-camera.

Those are 10-pin, does the D7000 have that?

I used to have an actual MC-36 and god it owned.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


echobucket posted:

I've been thinking about getting an old DSLR to convert to Infrared... and I just found out that apparently the D100 did not have an IR Filter built in.

So all I need (I think) is a D100, an visible light filter (which is called an IR filter most of the time even though it's not filtering IR), and maybe a set of step up rings for my lenses.

Will this work? Anyone else tried this with any success?

This sounds really dubious, pretty much everything that has a CCD has an infrared filter ('hot mirror') due to how absurdly sensitive they are to IR light and how much it fucks up photographs. The D100 might have a relatively weak hot mirror, but I can almost guarantee it has one.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Beastruction posted:

I was thinking more like 400mm, gotta get those sweet pigeon close-ups while I'm waiting for the bus.

The Tamron 200-400 f/5.6 is actually not terrible for the price.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


krooj posted:

Yup. Or the Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 or the 24-70 f/2.8 if you don't mind the offset focal range. You will poo poo a brick after seeing what quality glass can bring out of cheaper bodies.

This is good advice but holy poo poo both of those are so stupendously more expensive than the Tamron 17-50 2.8 that it's not even funny. Probably go with the Tamron, dude.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Beastruction posted:

At least it's cheaper than an 80-200 2.8 and 2x teleconverter.

...which is what I use now, with a $50 Tamron 1.4x TC. 380mm f/4 is close enough to 400mm for me, and a stop faster. And when I take the teleconverter off I'm left with what is still an awesome lens.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Platystemon posted:

You have a 271 mm f/2.8 lens? :confused:

Or is it a 180 mm f/2.8 and you’re including the crop factor?

It's an 80-200 2.8, which when used with a 1.4x TC, gives you 280mm f/4 on the long end, and it turns out I just can't type for poo poo. Nothing to see here.

And anybody that "includes crop factor" for that sorta poo poo is horribly pedantic and should probably get banned or something.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


ShadeofBlue posted:

Can we make this an official rule?

I was about to explain why I wasn't going to do that, but while explaining it I realized it wasn't a bad idea.

code:
20.  No being incredibly pedantic and smug about crop factors with your "oh it's not REALLY 50mm, :smug:" bullshit. Yes. It really is 50mm. 
     Learn what field of view means.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


His Divine Shadow posted:

I saw a Nikon remote for 8 bucks in a store a few weeks ago, thought it was very cheap so I bought it. I've been rather unsatisfied with it though, maybe I am using it wrong or something but it doesn't seem I can get it to react unless I point the thing absolutely correct and at no longer than 2 meters or so. Are there a lot of crappy knockoffs like these floating around? Is the one by Nikon any better?

Infrared remotes are total bullshit, especially if you're in an environment better-lit than "the bottom of a well at midnight on the darkest day of the year during a lunar eclipse."

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


His Divine Shadow posted:

Yeah it completely failed on me today in the sun. What would you recommend for remote triggering, I have like no idea where to begin.

What camera body do you have? Hopefully it has some kind of wired option that'll let you radio trigger it (or at least a long cable).

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.



Good, no, better than IR, probably.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110817480956

EDIT: Oh they just ship to Singapore, whatev, just search for "d7000 radio shutter release".

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


SybilVimes posted:

Urgh, for that price you can get one of the wireless flash triggers that has a shutter trigger mode. 2 functions for the price of one.

Except the D7000 uses that weird moon connector that isn't the standard ten-pin connector, so you'd have to get an adapter anyways.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


ShadeofBlue posted:

I have a Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 and I really like using it. I don't actually use it much because I find it kind of too long for crop cameras, but when I do it's been sharp and fun to use. I do have a split prism focus screen in my camera, though, so I don't know how hard it would be to focus without one.

I've also used the Samyang 85 1.4 and honestly it was pretty drat good. No autofocus obviously, but I believe this one was auto-aperture at least (or had the contacts for it and a proper aperture ring with the locking tab and stuff).

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


1st AD posted:

How does it compare to the Nikon 85 1.8? I've actually been quite pleased with the sharpness of that lens the one time I rented it (on full frame), but I would prefer having something with a manual aperture ring.

The 85 1.8 I have no idea, but I saw some article one time that found it to actually be comparable to the Nikon 85 1.4.

As in, fairly equal in most tests, actually better than the Nikon in one weird edge-case test.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Not to be too obvious but you do have to make sure the polarizer is actually big enough for the gigantic threading of a wide angle lens.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


tijag posted:

I'm basically sure that Nikon cameras are AF sensing at 2.8, not 5.6. Unless of course you have a lens in which the largest aperture is 5.6. Where did you read that Nikon can't AF at 2.8?

Probably mis-read the bit where AF is only guaranteed at apertures of 5.6 or faster (hence possibly losing AF performance when using a not-so-fast lens with a TC).

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


You could also try a reversed 50mm on the end of a long telephoto using a coupling ring, although I'm not sure how much better results you'd get than with your current setup.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Errant911 posted:

Ah okay, I realize where I went wrong (more than one place).

For one thing, I left out key info about my assumptions. First, I should have used "working distance" rather than "focusing distance." Also, I didn't mean to imply magnification would be the same between a 200mm and a 180mm at the same WD. I only meant that the DoF would be larger for the shorter focal length lens (assuming same f#) at the same working/focusing distance. Wouldn't it?

I might be totally wrong, but I got the "larger DoF" from using online calculators. I would put in a focusing/working distance, e.g. 25 cm, and a random f#, e.g. f/16, and I was varying lens focal length, 100, 180, 200mm. I was seeing the DoF grow with decreasing focal length. I didn't mean to imply magnification would be the same, just that DoF would grow as focal length decreased (and magnification decreased). While sufficient magnification is a concern, a super narrow DoF would also make a setup unsuitable for my purposes. I need at least a few mm, ideally at least 4-5mm, but I'm starting to understand I really need to sacrifice magnification to get that. I was able to get a decent DoF when I was shooting with the 100mm Zeiss Zf.2 + 12mm + 36mm extension tubes, at like ~f/16-f/22.

Platystemon, I'll look for those manual tubes. I've been checking places like Adorama and B&H, mainly because of how my university/research lets us do billing. I can't order from Amazon or ebay unless I put it on my own credit card then get reimbursed at a later date. I understand how ridiculous that sounds, but that's what I have to work with.

Right now, I think I'm going to go with the Tamron 180mm unless I find a higher quality alternative that isn't twice the price like the 200mm Nikon. I'll also look for some cheap manual bellows or extension tubes somewhere.

As a warning, don't buy the Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4 AI-S because it's a huge purple fringing piece of poo poo (I used to have one).

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Krelas posted:

Yeah the camera still works surprisingly enough. I think I'm going to pick up a D7000, they're such good value right now.

Story for those that are interested:
I was at a dance party on a portable stage and I went to walk off the stage at the back. The stage however, wasn't symmetrical and where I had assumed it extended out, there was nothing and so I free fell onto the camera and my face. There was a speedlite mounted, so it was pushed horizontal when I landed on top of the camera and took the hot shoe and popup flash with it. Fortunately enough, I'm fine, the lens is fine and the speedlite is fine, mounting a flash again isn't going to happen though.

Also I didn't have it insured, that's something I'm going to do from now on.

Anyone who smugposts about Sony's dumbass hotshoe design gets a six-hour.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Martytoof posted:

So basically Nikon said "Hey you know how Pentax makes those awesome colourful cameras??"

And then they said "Hey you know how Apple makes those commercials??"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvCjI5ZTNJ0

I'm the really discordant black parts.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


nielsm posted:

I seem to have lost the charger for my D40, and while I've been considering getting a newer/less poo poo Nikon DSLR for a while now it's probably not happening right away.
What kind of charger should I get? Supposedly 3rd-party ones should be just fine, any in particular I should look for? I also recently spotted a "one size fits all" kind of charger in a local store, has anyone tried such a thing?

I got a 3rd party charger from Gadget Infinity and I've had no problems with it, for all of ten bucks.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Musket posted:

Ive also bought plenty of aftermarket nikon chargers. Power 2000 makes good ones.

Mine said "Kingma" and had a tiny sorta Norse looking viking dude on it, so if you want viking power, order from gadgetinfinity I guess.

(Bear in mind mine is charger for EN-EL3e, I don't know what the Christ D40s use, but I'm sure they have a charger for it.)

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


PREYING MANTITS posted:

That "phallus hide" grip he installed on his D1h wasn't actually from an elephant at all!

Let us also remember that Ken Rockwell has an unironic webpage on his site about how aliens visited Europeans because they found Native Americans to be too savage and primitive to understand science. Yep, it's on there somewhere.

Also the D1H is still actually a good camera in TYOOLASJC 2013, my wife uses one (that I got for $125 in this very forum), and it actually outperforms my D200 in several areas.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Mightaswell posted:

K rock isn't that bad for succinct real world reviews. At least I can read a krock review in a minute compared to a 23 page dpreview piece of crap.

Pretty much the only thing I use his site for is a quick reference for filter diameter and whatnot on lenses.

Although he was entirely right about the 28-80 f/3.5-5.6D. poo poo's plastic, feels like the most bullshit lens ever, actually somehow owns.

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SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


TheJeffers posted:

Rockwell freely admits that he writes hoaxes and bullshit into his site for laughs. If you take everything he's posted on there seriously, you are exactly the type of person he is trying to catch and you should be laughed at.

The problem being that his serious stuff is dumber than the fake stuff half the time.

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