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Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Black88GTA posted:

This is cool, until the electrical tape goes through a couple summers, gets gooey, and starts unraveling. It's much safer / easier to just pull the fuse from the fuse holder that's near the battery*. If none is present, slap whoever did the installation and install one. Worst case, disconnect the power cable and use a zip tie to tie it off somewhere that won't get in the way.

*Unless it's one of the lovely round glass tube fuse holders that rely on the fuse being in place to keep the cable ends apart. In this case, use a non-conductive stiff material as a spacer in place of the fuse.

I totally agree there, au summers get drugging hot and it wouldn't last. I was more commenting on the lax attitude of the previous owner.

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Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

b0nes posted:

My brother has a Pioneer head unit and the USB port has stopped working. Is it possible to get it fixed or will he need a whole new unit? Right now he is just sing the aux in.
Also can you replace the faceplate with one found on Ebay?
[/quote]

If the port has come unsoldered from its board (and you can disassemble the headunit enough to get it out) you might try re-flowing the solder, either with a soldering iron or masking off the rest of the board with aluminum foil and dropping it in a toaster oven for 5-10 minutes.

How old is it/any chance of getting it fixed/replaced under warranty?

b0nes posted:

Also can you replace the faceplate with one found on Ebay?

Depends on if there are security measures in place that specifically join the faceplate to the rest of the unit, and even then it may not work if the problem lies upstream from the port itself (USB controller or power supply may be shot.) Honestly with USB being a standard feature on all but the cheapest of head units now he's probably best off just buying a new one.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Does anyone make a bluetooth adapter for ipod docks in cars that can pass the track skip commands to an iphone?

Here is what I want to do: I have an 08 Infiniti G35 with the stock stereo. It has ipod integration, but its the old firewire kind, so I have an adapter on the end of the stock infiniti dock connector that converts it to the new charging standard (which I needed for my iphone 3gs and 4s to charge them) and now I have a 30-pin to lightning adapter on the end of that for my iphone 5.

It all works fine actually, my 5 charges and plays music fine, I can use all the steering wheel controls, and the artist/track name shows up on the screen.

I recently had a Buick Lacrosse as a rental car, and I tried its bluetooth audio and really liked it. I'd like to put a bluetooth receiver on the end of the stock infiniti dock connector to be able to do bluetooth audio, but most of the reviews I read say that the bluetooth receivers only passively receive audio, they wont receive artist/track data, nor will they pass the steering wheel control button presses to the phone.

Is there an adapter that does this out there?

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jan 4, 2013

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
There's these things, but they seem to have really hit or miss AVRCP support and probably won't work.

If you don't have navigation, but can control a satellite radio module, you can use one of these. They're kind of expensive, glitchy, slow, but it's at least something made to work with your car.

If you have navigation, you are completely screwed and should be glad it works as well as it does!

the
Jul 18, 2004

by Cowcaster
Can someone let me know what kind of "Dash kit" I need to install a deck in a 98 Civic?

I have this in my cart currently: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEYJA/

Also, if I'm replacing both front and rear speakers, do I need two sets of these?

Knyteguy
Jul 6, 2005

YES to love
NO to shirts


Toilet Rascal
Just a little update on the tablet install (2004 F150 Extended Cab)
Got a KAC-8105D http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entertainment/amplifiers/kac-8105d installed with a http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR102/Kicker-10CVR102.html 10" Kicker Comp VR. I had to use a Scosche line-out converter with some t-splices from the stock wires to get it to work with the factory stereo. The line-out converter will eventually be used for a 2-channel amplifier connected to the front speakers, and my EQ/line driver will take care of the sub as far as I know. Unfortunately the amp I bought was open box and it didn't have the speaker level input wire.

Right now the sub is in a .75 ft^3 and it's not the sound I'm quite looking for (and it's not even within the minimum cubic feet specs according to Kicker). I couldn't find the cubic feet of the box when I bought it. I'm having a custom sealed box made with 3/4" MDF 15"H/D/W external dimensions that I'm hoping will make it boomier as it will about double the cubic feet. I used a 6 gauge wiring kit so for a couple front speakers I should have just enough power for a decent amp to be powered with a distribution block. I'm sure there's a little power loss from this, but hopefully not much.

Just need to rebuild the budget and then the tablet, EQ, and front components will be next.

E: Really bummed I chose a 2 ohm DVC sub as my single sub. I was thinking I could run it @ 2 ohms with the 500 watt RMS that amplifier is rated at, because the sub is a 400 watt RMS sub. However I learned that I had to wire both coils so it ends up being a 4 ohm sub or a 1 ohm sub :\. Oh well I got it for $40.00 cheaper at Best Buy than I could find either version anywhere else.

Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Jan 6, 2013

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Knyteguy posted:

Just a little update on the tablet install (2004 F150 Extended Cab)
Got a KAC-8105D http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entertainment/amplifiers/kac-8105d installed with a http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR102/Kicker-10CVR102.html 10" Kicker Comp VR. I had to use a Scosche line-out converter with some t-splices from the stock wires to get it to work with the factory stereo. The line-out converter will eventually be used for a 2-channel amplifier connected to the front speakers, and my EQ/line driver will take care of the sub as far as I know. Unfortunately the amp I bought was open box and it didn't have the speaker level input wire.

Right now the sub is in a .75 ft^3 and it's not the sound I'm quite looking for (and it's not even within the minimum cubic feet specs according to Kicker). I couldn't find the cubic feet of the box when I bought it. I'm having a custom sealed box made with 3/4" MDF 15"H/D/W external dimensions that I'm hoping will make it boomier as it will about double the cubic feet. I used a 6 gauge wiring kit so for a couple front speakers I should have just enough power for a decent amp to be powered with a distribution block. I'm sure there's a little power loss from this, but hopefully not much.

Just need to rebuild the budget and then the tablet, EQ, and front components will be next.

E: Really bummed I chose a 2 ohm DVC sub as my single sub. I was thinking I could run it @ 2 ohms with the 500 watt RMS that amplifier is rated at, because the sub is a 400 watt RMS sub. However I learned that I had to wire both coils so it ends up being a 4 ohm sub or a 1 ohm sub :\. Oh well I got it for $40.00 cheaper at Best Buy than I could find either version anywhere else.

Just checked your sub amp from your listing, it's rated at 500w at 4 ohm not 2 ohm. Either way that should be pumping in a decent box.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
What kind of space do you have to work with for the sub box? I'm guessing the current one is sealed? Build this instead.(Thanks ddaudio)

Just run that sub and amp at 1 ohm. In the real world it will be plenty higher at the times when it will actually matter. I'm not a huge fan of either the sub or amp, but with a nice box they should sound great.

Knyteguy
Jul 6, 2005

YES to love
NO to shirts


Toilet Rascal

Lowclock posted:

What kind of space do you have to work with for the sub box? I'm guessing the current one is sealed? Build this instead.(Thanks ddaudio)

Just run that sub and amp at 1 ohm. In the real world it will be plenty higher at the times when it will actually matter. I'm not a huge fan of either the sub or amp, but with a nice box they should sound great.

Holy crap man, thanks! I was seriously looking for vented box plans everywhere and couldn't find anything but discussion regarding it. This one looks relatively easy to do too. I can't build this right now, but in the next couple months I'll be getting a table saw (they're not as expensive as I thought when I looked last night) and trying for this. Current is sealed yea.

Re: 1 ohm sub to amp, would that be safe for the amp?

quote:

Just checked your sub amp from your listing, it's rated at 500w at 4 ohm not 2 ohm. Either way that should be pumping in a decent box.

Yea it's actually hitting pretty good now that I adjusted the gain.

Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jan 7, 2013

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

Lowclock posted:

I usually start out with both the high and low pass set around 120hz and do it by ear from there. Maybe separate them a little more if they're not nice 4th order (24db/octave) filters.

Yeah, since you're using a sealed box, you'll be pushing more for sound quality rather than strict volume. You're going to want to set your crossovers to remove frequencies from the sub that it can't properly play, and remove frequencies that your full-range speakers no longer need to do since you have a subwoofer. This will result in your whole system being more efficient, and will allow better reproduction and volume before distortion.

You should start with making sure your full-range speakers are properly dialed in. Are you using an external amp for those?

Fortunately for me I guess, I have a head-unit with crossover functions, so I can play with this stuff from my seat.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Knyteguy posted:

Re: 1 ohm sub to amp, would that be safe for the amp?
Yeah just don't go too crazy with the gain and you'll be fine. It's not like it's a 1 ohm resistor. It will change depending on things like where the coil is in the gap and how it's moving and stuff, and it will be more, not less, especially in a sealed box.

intheflesh
Nov 4, 2008
I would like to put a great stereo in my car, but I'm having issues finding things that are of high quality that also fit. I would like to get some component separates, but unfortunately I only have 4" openings in the dash. I would like to steer clear of trying to fab up a mounting solutions for larger speakers in the front doors, but I have absolutely no issues with hacking apart the rear shelf things behind the rear seats (gently caress rear passengers, I'd never see my shoddy craftsmanship back there). I'd like to stay with a component set because I've liked every set I've installed in previous cars, but they all had bigger openings of lovely interiors that I didn't care about ruining further with my hack-jobs.

Question 1:
Would it sound terrible to use a three-way component set, with the tweeter and midrange in/near the stock location in the front and the woofer in the back? As stated previously, gently caress rear passengers, I don't care if all they can hear is bass. The car in question is a 1990 Audi 90 sedan, which has a rather small cabin, its not like I'd be putting the bass drivers 10 feet away, its maybe 5 feet at most from the midrange and tweeter.
I was looking at this set
http://www.amazon.com/Focal-Access-...=I3AIAM3QIO1OH8
Powered by
http://www.amazon.com/MB-Quart-ONX4...=I1EYL967DSUPRB
and a decent head unit, probably a sub later on

I'd like to not have to hack up anything in the front, but it is slim pickins for a component set with a 4" midrange. Advantage to just manning up and making some door pod things for a 6.5" or 5.25" component set in the front is then I can put some coaxials in the back or maybe be extra ambitious and put an 8" or 10" sub in the rear deck thing (probably won't happen)

Question 2:
Is there a decent head unit (1DIN) that has iPod connectivity via USB that lets the iPod be itself? All the ones I've seen have their own obnoxious menus and controls that put the iPod into a kind of "slave-mode", I want to be able to charge the thing via USB while still letting it control itself

Kachunkachunk
Jun 6, 2011
If you're really hurting, there are also kickpanels you can get for some cars to fit 6.5" components into. Not too sure about three-way components being compatibile with kick panels, however. Maybe just make your own?
I think the value of having that kind of quality out of a three-way set is pretty much made pointless when you put the larger drivers/woofers into the rear; you'll source the sound far too easily as a listener.

I had a pair of custom kick panels for my 01 Civic when I was driving one, which weren't too disruptive (in terms of space consumption). I had to watch for passengers kicking the grille by accident, perhaps, and they get scuffed, but it's no big deal. I also found that the kickpanels mostly aimed at the driver's head, so the passneger doesn't really get the same balanced sound. But the sound was indeed good. And legs/clothing can block the sound very noticeably, so that's not so good.

Most folks I've talked to only care about the front sound stage, so they don't bother much with upgrading the speakers in the rear deck. I personally went with two sets of Alpine Type-X reference two-way components in the front and rear (each), then two 10" Alpine Type-R subs in the rear, in a ported box. It's a very loud system, but I can source everything very easily. Putting my front-cabin 6.5" drivers towards the back would be extremely noticeable/different and not be good.


Edit: My kick panels had cut-outs for the drivers (6.5" or whatever smaller diameter you want) as well as the tweets, if you don't want yours up by the mirrors.

Kachunkachunk fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jan 8, 2013

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

intheflesh posted:

I would like to put a great stereo in my car, but I'm having issues finding things that are of high quality that also fit.
I wouldn't really bother with a 3 way unless your car is already set up for it, and even then it can be more of a hassle than it's worth. I would agree with the kick panels for some 6.5" or even 5.25", and then put the tweeter up on the a-pillar or dash or wherever sounds better, and a pair of coaxials on the back shelf. It will lack bottom end no matter what you do, so yeah that's what a sub is for. Don't put it in the deck, put it in a box, although firing through it might not be a bad idea. A 10 in a nice box will sound surprisingly loud without taking up a ton of space.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
Oh god help. How did I get here I am not good with wires.







I thought I could re-use the wiring harness that came with the ca. 1994 radio. I look at all these wires spliced to differently-colored wires, and these cut wires, and the wires emanating from other parts of the car, and the wires coming out of what I think is the wiring harness that have been cut, and my brain starts turning inside out.

Is there any hope for re-using this jumble (like plugging the stereo wires into the old connector), or should I just buy a new wiring harness?

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Hey, at least their all crimped up and not just twisted and taped.

Can you source a patch loom for your head unit/car combo?

I bought ones from a reseller of https://www.aerpro.com goods when I put in my new head unit.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

Puddin posted:

Hey, at least their all crimped up and not just twisted and taped.

Can you source a patch loom for your head unit/car combo?

I bought ones from a reseller of https://www.aerpro.com goods when I put in my new head unit.

Is a patch loom the same thing as this? That site doesn't seem to have anything other than mounting plates for a 1988 Volvo 240.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

What is that white plug in the stereo hole in your photos, at the top just out of view? Is that the factory plug still in place? If so, you already have the patch loom (or factory adapter) you need, you're just freaking out over the wires. If not, you're not that far off anyway.

The good news is that it's really not that complicated, just tedious. If they cut your stock plug out of the car, the overall simplest solution but most time consuming will be to get a stereo harness from a junkyard car and cut out as much of it as you can, then just splice in the matching colored wires, restoring your car to stock, then use that patch loom from crutchfield. And even with the patch loom, you still have to separately wire the rear speakers (which it looks like they did there).

Otherwise, just cut off all that poo poo and splice your stereo's harness to the car. There are a total of 11 important wires, and a max of 14-16 depending on how fancy your stereo is.

8 speaker wires (usually green purple white and gray, in pairs with one striped and one solid), constant power (yellow), switched power (red), and ground (black). Optional are dimming lights (blue or orange), power antenna (blue orange pink or brown), and a remote turn-on lead for an amp (blue).

e: you can't use the old stereo's plug, those are always brand specific and change every few years so you'll be cutting that out regardless.

LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Jan 9, 2013

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Protip: If you're a bit confused as to which speaker wire pair goes to which (happens on older cars, all four speakers had a striped purple/purple wire combo in my Plymouth) take a AA battery and make quick contact on the pair (with the car off and battery disconnected, as it already should be during an installation). The appropriate speaker will give a weak "pop" to locate it.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

atomicthumbs posted:

Is there any hope for re-using this jumble (like plugging the stereo wires into the old connector), or should I just buy a new wiring harness?
I don't know what kind of car that is from the picture, but Amazon or even Best Buy probably has what they call a reverse wiring harness to get you back to the OEM plug, but unless it really bothers you, it won't really make a difference if you just cut the old one out and directly wire up the new deck's harness.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

atomicthumbs posted:

Is a patch loom the same thing as this? That site doesn't seem to have anything other than mounting plates for a 1988 Volvo 240.

Yeah it probably won't have anything for your car as it probably doesn't have the volume of units to warrant making one.

Crutchfield probably have the female adapter for your cars wiring harness, you just want to make sure that the plug is the same shape as the white adapter you have in your photos. You'll have to join the correct wires to from that to the end of the wires that come with the plug with the head unit.

If your car did have an adapter kit from that site basically you buy two plugs, one that matches your input plug on the head unit that goes to a standard male outlet plug, and one that matches your cars wiring harness to a standard female outlet plug.

No splicing or cutting of wires, just a simple plug and play job.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Geirskogul posted:

Protip: If you're a bit confused as to which speaker wire pair goes to which (happens on older cars, all four speakers had a striped purple/purple wire combo in my Plymouth) take a AA battery and make quick contact on the pair (with the car off and battery disconnected, as it already should be during an installation). The appropriate speaker will give a weak "pop" to locate it.

In addition, the speaker will move towards you if you have the + speaker terminal on the + tip of the battery, and the other way if you have them reversed. So you can figure out the polarity of the wiring and get them all correct.

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

atomicthumbs posted:

Oh god help. How did I get here I am not good with wires.







I thought I could re-use the wiring harness that came with the ca. 1994 radio. I look at all these wires spliced to differently-colored wires, and these cut wires, and the wires emanating from other parts of the car, and the wires coming out of what I think is the wiring harness that have been cut, and my brain starts turning inside out.

Is there any hope for re-using this jumble (like plugging the stereo wires into the old connector), or should I just buy a new wiring harness?

I loving hate it when people do this. All to save $5 on a loving adapter.

Find another of your car in a junkyard, cut out the harness. Splice that to replace this lovely wiring job, then get an adapter, splice the adapter to your new radio harness.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
Thanks for all the help, guys. I've cut off the original one, isolated and labeled the speaker wires, and now it's much easier.

Question: the constant 12v wire for the previous stereo has what appears to be a choke (the box on the orange wire) in it. Will its absence degrade my sound quality any, or is a modern stereo immune to anything that'd come through there?

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

It's there to improve sound quality by hopefully cutting down on alternator whine. Either way it shouldn't hurt.

the
Jul 18, 2004

by Cowcaster
How do I make sure I get the right "dash mounting kit" for a 98 Civic?

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

atomicthumbs posted:

Thanks for all the help, guys. I've cut off the original one, isolated and labeled the speaker wires, and now it's much easier.

Question: the constant 12v wire for the previous stereo has what appears to be a choke (the box on the orange wire) in it. Will its absence degrade my sound quality any, or is a modern stereo immune to anything that'd come through there?

LloydDobler posted:

It's there to improve sound quality by hopefully cutting down on alternator whine. Either way it shouldn't hurt.
That's not a ground loop isolator. It's a fuse holder.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
It's not, the inline fuse holder is the white cylinder behind that. The black box is the isolator.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
I guess you could be right now that I went and looked at the full sized pic and realize the wire colors change and I can't see if 1 wire or 2 come out of it and its maybe a little big. That's more of a mess than I thought it was at a glance, haha. I saw decent crimps and kept scrollin.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

the posted:

How do I make sure I get the right "dash mounting kit" for a 98 Civic?

Civics are quite popular, the odds that anything that says it's for your car being wrong are pretty low. Otherwise order from someone reputable enough that they take it back if they send you the wrong one.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
:toot:



Thank you, everyone, for the help. Also, a curse on the person who decided to mess with me by installing a fuse holder in the power antenna wire.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Looks good man! How's it sound?

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

Puddin posted:

Looks good man! How's it sound?

Sounds better than it used to, even though I haven't done anything to the speakers; the equalizer settings in this thing let me set it just right to take full advantage of the front (4", stock) and rear (5.5"?, stock) speakers without noticeable distortion.

It's a JVC-HDR71BT, so I get HD Radio and Bluetooth and whatnot. Of course, to take advantage of the HD radio, I have to fix my power antenna mast first. :argh:

Kachunkachunk
Jun 6, 2011
Nice work making sense of that spaghetti bowl of wiring earlier!
And there's always a tiny improvement over the original head unit. Unless you get a completely asstastic one, anyway.

the
Jul 18, 2004

by Cowcaster
So, my 98 civic has "two" bays. I can't find a picture for it, but the radio deck is separate from the cd deck. The cd deck sits down behind the drink holders.

I'm assuming that the standard replacement is to replace the radio deck, but if I get rid of the cd deck I'll just have an empty hole there. What kind of thing can I get to fill it?

Mighty Horse
Jul 24, 2007

Speed, Class, Bankruptcy.
check junkyards for the poverty spec civic with no CD player, there must have been a little cubby or something that fits in there.

Or find one of those rad 1/2 din EQs from the 90s and stuff it in there.

Or Comedy Option: Install 2 radios.

stevobob
Nov 16, 2008

Alchemy - the study of how to turn LS1's into a 20B. :science:


Mighty Horse posted:

check junkyards for the poverty spec civic with no CD player, there must have been a little cubby or something that fits in there.

Or find one of those rad 1/2 din EQs from the 90s and stuff it in there.

Or Comedy Option: Install 2 radios.

My roommate did this, the new one he installed in the lower slot doesn't have a clock so he kept the factory one in the original location.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

They surely sell a factory pocket, which always look better than aftermarket. Case in point:



vs.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

So not only is my new (to me) car equipped with the GM beeps and bings and bongs and poo poo that go through the stereo, it also has OnStar, and the GM "retained accessory power" ahit.

I'd like to keep the dongs and dings, I don't care about OnStar. My car is apparently a special snowflake though; only Metra/Axxess make a harness that can retain that poo poo. A generic harness will allow the stereo to work, but also kills the RAP and OnStar, plus all of the DING poo poo... I don't plan to use OnStar, but I'd like it to be available for whenever I sell the car. And the RAP is really nice to have at work, since on really slow days I'll nap in the car (falling asleep to NPR or a podcast....)

e: the adapter is $100 online. :gonk:

e2: I actually went to Best Buy, of all places, looking for it. Their tech told me I could use a Cobalt harness if I could find some way to power the beeps/dings/dongs part, and said it's not too difficult to do so. I plan to keep the factory stereo for whenever I sell it, and don't plan to use OnStar, but it'd be really nice to keep the "hey rear end in a top hat your car is overheating" warning chimes and the like...so if anyone knows how to power the factory chime module and keep Retained Accessory Power without a $100+ Metra adapter.......

e3: by keep the factory stereo, I mean it'll be in a box, waiting to get tossed back in the day I sell it. I plan to install the Pioneer head unit from my old car..

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Jan 18, 2013

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telarium4
Jul 23, 2010
So, I took my last car into Car Toys to 'upgrade' my sound system. I decided to keep stock components and just add a subwoofer with custom fiberglass(?) enclosure. I sold the car - but before I did, I ripped out the equipment Car Toys had installed and - somehow - got the stock speakers working again after some trial-and-error re-wiring.

In any event - I'd like to perhaps get this equipment installed in my new car. I'm satisfied with the stock components in my new car - and just want to, again, install a subwoofer.

Some questions:

-Is it poor form to keep the stock components and only add a subwoofer?

-Is it always necessary to pierce the firewall to power the amp?

-Roughly how much should an install cost given the equipment below along with another custom fiberglass enclosure?





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