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I installed one of those CD changer output>Aux adapters in my 2003 Accord and I'm getting a poo poo-ton of alternator whine. I attempted to clean things up by putting in a ground loop isolator but that hasn't really seemed to have had much of a positive effect. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can clean that up, or should I start budgeting for the expensive dash adapter to go aftermarket?
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Sep 28, 2018 20:45
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Wasabi the J posted:Is it happening whether the phone is charging or not? Happens even when a device isn't plugged in at all.
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Sep 29, 2018 19:05
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Wasabi the J posted:Seems like you have to keep the stock stereo buried in there. Looks like this gets most of the way there. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120HD...XgaArKvEALw_wcB Could ask Crutchfield about the upper display retention.
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Oct 24, 2018 21:56
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Also, if you're going to go that route, don't buy dynamat. You can find the same stuff really cheaply without the brand name on it.
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Oct 31, 2018 19:42
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STR posted:So was asking about stuff for GF's car. I still have a set of DDDrive speakers.
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Jan 19, 2019 03:24
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STR posted:Get a short USB extension cable? If space is really tight, one with a 90 degree plug, like this? (note that that set of 2 has one right angle, one left angle...) Makes it easier to connect in to a factory USB connection. Also I'd expect most users that are using a USB connection want it wired to a port somewhere in the car and having it in the back there lets you hide the wiring. They should just unplug from the board if you want to just pop that part of the case open, I did that with my pre-outs on my old 7949 when I picked up the external EQ and routed all the audio to it via AI-NET.
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Apr 25, 2019 18:58
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The microphone also hooks up to a cable hanging out. 
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falz posted:Sorry, this is off topic. Is there a similar thread for Home Audio? Actually what I'm looking for is something related to a A/V furniture recommendations (floating / wall hanging, like ikea BESTA). Bose is overpriced garbage for hip idiots.
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Oct 8, 2019 05:41
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The Door Frame posted:I've got the "big 3" wiring upgrade in (1/0, longest run is alternator positive at just over 5ft), and I'm about ready for a high output alternator. When I tested my amp's draw, it was only ~30 amps, but with A/C or defroster, headlights, wipers, running the engine, and actually turning the 12" subwoofer's dial above 2, I think I might be going above the 70 amps my alternator was rated for. I've found a 160 amp that's compatible with little effort, but I don't know if that's too much power. Or if "too much power" is even a thing, google results have been less than enlightening Unless you're going to be running all this poo poo regularly with the car off you don't need a second battery, and that's not what automotive batteries are really designed for anyway. You'll probably either need to upgrade the feed wires from the alternator to electrical (should go to the primary fuse box and the are going to usually be barely rated for current power levels), or you could run a secondary line direct to the battery (make sure you fuse it). If you do the first thing you'll also need to upgrade the primary fuse (it'll be the first fuse you hit from the alternator lines). Check and re-check, electrical fires are bad.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:52
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Suburban Dad posted:I've not bothered with much car audio stuff besides putting in a head unit before and not sure how to proceed. I listen to mostly podcasts and I have to crank the volume to even be able to clearly hear anything, and it just sounds...muddy and unclear. This is via bluetooth and plugged in directly to Android Auto. I've tried dicking with the equalizer settings a bit and shifting the balance and fade but nothing seems to have much effect. I'm wondering if the speakers are just junk, or if it's more because it's a minivan with a huge open cargo area with more road noise and volume. I can talk at a normal level and hear front seat passenger just fine though, so I don't think the road noise is that excessive. Does your source have volume control as well, or does it pass directly to the head unit? If the former, crank the volume up on the bluetooth source all the way, then use your head unit to tune for listening volume.
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Dec 19, 2019 20:43
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In a lot of cases too there's some serious diminishing returns when trying to upgrade car audio in current vehicles; as long as you've got okay integration with your mobile device I'd focus on upgrading the speakers/amplifier and just not touch the head unit at all.
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Feb 24, 2020 04:59
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DrChu posted:I'm in the middle of installing a backup camera in my BRZ. I have the camera installed in the deck lid and starting to work the wiring up to the front. Rather than run a ground to the head unit, I found this in the trunk, it seems like a ground but I wanted to check before using it: Any wire you attach to the chassis is going to be a ground.
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Apr 12, 2020 01:50
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Coredump posted:drat that's so simple that now I feel like a dummy. I wouldn't worry about it. It's one of those things that you don't think about until it's mentioned, and then you'll never forget again. That particular bolt is clearly intended to be ground, so you'll be fine, but any other handy chassis bolt works too, provided it's not otherwise insulated and it's not covered in paint. Personally I like using seat-belt mounting bolts for amplifier ground.
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Apr 12, 2020 19:56
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LobsterboyX posted:So - I'd like some sound in my old cars. In the past I've restored the vintage radios, but my patience is wearing thin on them, I've restored 2 radios to factory spec with aux inputs and they've both failed. I have been looking for a solution that fits my insanity - ive been using a little jbl bluetooth speaker thing, but it honestly sucks and I'd really like to have nicer tunes in these cars. I'd suggest something like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZNWfK...5YaAlvCEALw_wcB Or this: https://www.classiccarstereos.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwit_8BRCoARIsAIx3Rj7hax0tzyg7N7nKRj9PZD4gvfYpsEbwhg1kGCwM-MYGtcEaITFScbkaAqpaEALw_wcB Retro style and fitment with modern internals. The second link has hidden audio options.
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Oct 28, 2020 02:53
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MREBoy posted:It's a 2014 Nissan Maxima. Supposedly there is a pre-made hole behind the glove box somewhere so that's where I am checking first. That's a bullet connector, you can get a matching terminal in that size without much effort. You can feed two wires in to a butt connector, do that. Do not use wire nuts, they'll work loose in a vehicle.
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Oct 29, 2020 22:16
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MREBoy posted:Yes, I have an Alpine ILX-W650 and the matching KTA-450 amp sitting on my dining room table right now. I think what I'm doing wrong is that I somehow got it into my head that both yellow wires marked BATTERY for these 2 separate pieces of equipment have to be wired/connected to the 12 ga. wire that I have to run to the + terminal on the battery, but this is actually incorrect. Since my friend bought this stuff from Crutchfield it came with a large assortment of install related stuff including a Metra 70-7552 Receiver Wiring Harness. If I'm now understanding right the amp alone will get power direct from the battery and I actually hook up the head unit power wire to the yellow 12v wire on the Metra adapter. After that the blue/white wires present on each device will be connected together, ignoring the blue/white on the adapter. Oh, yeah. Trying to run amp power off of that would cause some really entertaining results. It should have direct, fused power to battery (in my setup, I fuse 6 inches or so from the battery on the main amp power line, then I fuse it at the distribution block where it splits it for my main speaker amp and my powered subwoofer), and then pre-outs and remote-turn on from the head unit.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:58
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~Coxy posted:I bought a little Bluetooth receiver "tile" for my car and plugged it on to the 3.5mm jack and USB power via a cigarette lighter USB charger. Google "ground loop isolator". You'll need one of those, cigarette lighters have absolutely terrible grounds and you'll always get noise if you have audio anywhere near them. I'm assuming you've checked, but the superior option is to get an aftermarket adapter that patches in to the changer/aux connector, assuming your car has that option. I've got that on the Accord and Bluetooth is squeaky clean since it's patched direct in to the headunit and is powered from it. It also has a usb and 3.5 connector in case I ever want to use something that doesn't have Bluetooth.
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Apr 22, 2021 02:26
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Hell, they've got ones that'll replace your rear-view mirror.
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Mar 20, 2022 23:01
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