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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


toplitzin posted:

It will connect over AUX, FM, or your phone can do the BT Audio if that's all your head unit has:



Oh, the Specifications page on Meh did not say that. Nice catch.
edit: comments say it's a typo in the description, and point to the PDF of the user manual, which is as you picture. Much better.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Apr 21, 2023

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


...why in the name of all that's holy would you design a car accessory to be powered by 6V? Engineers sometimes, I swear.

Good call on the LOC. Sounds like it was intended for exactly that.

I don't know about your head unit, but I had to "train" my Atoto, even with the Atoto universal remote. Kind of like picking controls on a video game - select the function on the radio, then hit the button you want to be that function on the remote.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


DrChu posted:

I'm hoping I can customize the home screen a little just to remove the stuff we won't use like XM Radio.

You can't, and that annoys me ever so much.

quote:

The little pinhole mic on the front next to the screen is a little weak, but it does include an external mic to plug in that I didn't feel like find a place for so I'm not using it yet, possibly ever.

I ran the mic to the factory mic location on our 2003 Outback, but there's no reason you can't stick it, say on the top of the steering column trim to make an easy cable run.

everdave posted:

They rename these random names, but I bought a couple of these at once and I’ve been pulling them out of boxes and installing them and they are fine. I didn’t pay $30 though more like $18-20. I’m sure they are on ali as well



They are!


edit:

movax posted:

Got it... not sure I want to toss one of those into something I intend keeping long-term. I've had pretty good experiences with my Excelon in my A4; I'll wait until the cars come in to take a look and see what makes sense / if there's even a trim adapter available for it.

e: honestly something like this looks dated 'just enough': https://www.amazon.com/VDO-Continental-TR7412UB-European-Bluetooth/dp/B08D2R48HZ or https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/retrosound-grand-prix-radio/products/1980-84-bmw-6-series-grand-prix-din-radio.

e2: Basically this: https://www.thedrive.com/news/39915/it-shouldnt-be-this-hard-to-find-a-period-looking-stereo-for-my-1991-toyota-mr2-turbo but for a SW20.

Or the transplant guts option.

I knew about the Continentals, but that Retrosound Grand Prix is nice!
For even *more* vintage, they have the Europa, which looks like a vintage Becker:
https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/retrosound-europa-radio/products/1977-80-bmw-6-series-e24-europa-radio

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


DrChu posted:

Through some searching I found a way to remove the XM icon, but I cannot find any sort of crossover/filter options.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ATOTO/comments/ywgwr9/atoto_f7_secret_menu/

After changing these settings the system did an unexpected boot cycle and I had to reteach it all the steering wheel controls, but the XM icon is now gone.

Interesting. I'll try that. I want that and the Android Auto button gone. Just need BT and CarPlay.
Like some of the other commenters, I'd *really* like the ability to adjust relative source volumes. Radio is WAY louder than CarPlay, for example. I could do that with the previous Kenwood.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Depends. You can run speakers off of the head unit's internal amp while still utilizing the external amp for other speakers.
I run a 4-channel amp with 2 channels powering the sub and two channels powering the front speakers, with the head unit powering the rear speakers in my Crown Vic. It works fine. Factory speakers in the rear deck, basically just used for fill.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Captain Log posted:

I did it. Holy gently caress, I literally don't know how I went my whole adult life without a real system. I'm grinning like an idiot and finding excuses to drive everywhere.

That said, is there a way to keep your rearview mirror from vibrating so aggressively? :downs: ( Serious question, though )

Nah. That's just what real bass does, mate. :D

Captain Log posted:

Oh poo poo, I forgot to post one of the funniest things about the whole install.

Like I mentioned before, my steering wheel controls were hosed. If you pressed a button, it did something random.

This is relevant - My car is a 2013. The head unit was $899 in 2013. The backup camera was installed incorrectly, and the stock speakers were left in the car. It was mind boggling to spend money on that head unit, gently caress up the steering wheel controls, and do the backup camera wrong. I fixed everything but the steering wheel controls.

The car installers told me they probably left off some module for the car steering wheels, and told me it would cost $200-$300 to pick up the correct module, install and program it. They told me it wasn't worth spending the money on fixing, unless it really bugged me. I agreed.

They called me midway through the install to tell me the correct module for the steering wheel controls was already inside the car. The people who put it in a decade ago did it wrong. They fixed it, and now my steering wheel controls work and it didn't cost me anything.

What the gently caress were the people who put in the head unit thinking?!

I've found that, usually, they're... not.
Never underestimate people with more money than sense. Or "penny wise, pound foolish" people, like someone who would pay $900 for a head unit and then install it themselves despite having no skill at doing so.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


evobatman posted:

Just thought I'd show y'all what I found inside the door of my Honda Accord Type R



Duct tape, wood screws and a Fisher speaker - literally the worst name in audio.

*quality* installs use gaffer tape and drywall screws.


Captain Log posted:

Oh, I was just quoting an overall price. They told me there were three different modules available varying in price, plus install.

I’m talking about the person who bought the part in 2013, with money, and installed it so badly pressing a steering wheel button would do God only knows what.

I don’t get that much effort to do something wrong.

Congratulations, you've had a previous owner.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


two_beer_bishes posted:

Planning out an amp install on my boat, my two options are short power cable with long RCA cables or long power cables with short RCA cables. I haven't measured actual lengths yet but the short lengths are 3-5ft and the long lengths are probably around 20ft. Any issues with RCA cables of that length?

Nah, 15-20' RCA cables in cars for amps in the trunk are rarely an issue.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


His Divine Shadow posted:

I fitted the carpet now and I think it looks kinda nice actually. I was not able to find the proper color or style to match the factory original. The store I went to had this really nice looking carpet though that would have looked even better, almost the same color match and this nice striped pattern. But two weeks lead time! I instead got this very thick carpet that was hell to work with, but very sturdy and rigid. Slightly different color but it looks close enough IMO that you could imagine the factory using a slightly different style for the shelf.







Just the two bigger speakers fitted so far. I want to try and hook up the base unit now and see that that does if anything.

Looks good! Ridiculously overbuilt. :P
Yeah, just some MDF and grille cloth for grills would work great.
No idea who MDS is - they're probably cheapo, but adequate if you're just needing some sound. I doubt adding the Pyles would really accomplish much. for one thing, wiring would be weird.

Tidy up the wiring on that sub. It's not offensive, but definitely could be done better. A little corrugated split-loom if nothing else.
You should be able to get the manual for that sub online once you have the model number (likely on the bottom) to confirm it's wired up correctly.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


H1KE posted:

Awesome, thanks ya'll. I tend to obsessively research for months on end before getting stuff that I'll hang on to for multiple vehicles.

I had heard the rumors about Optima and after doing some looking around Aus car forums etc, it all seems to be true. I'll start looking at changing out to a higher amp alternator and swap out for a chunkier battery instead. A dual setup is common and cheap to do now, so I'd prefer to have a separate one just to keep the draw off the main where possible.

For available brands, it's a pain to find anything outside of the 'big three' [Alpine, Sony, Pioneer] so I'll talk to a few different shops I've dealt with before and trust before making a list. I used to find with my old wagon of the same model, I needed to add a capacitor to help keep the headlights dip away, so I'll see what's available there too. Others that seem to be pretty available are Hertz, JBL, and Soundstream. I had a Soundstream setup way back around the early 2000s, but they seem to have dropped quality now too, unfortunately.

Soundstream is a zombie brand now - just run-of-the-mill Chinese stuff.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


I've discovered that my new Skar sub wants more power. Or, more accurately, the Planet amp is topping out long before the sub. I'm running the amp in 3-channel, and it can't keep the sub level up with the mains. Time to let the Planet power F & R (rears currently powered by the head, because who cares?) and get a dedicated mono sub amp that can actually hit rated power rather than the impolite fiction Planet publishes (the fuses on the amp literally can't handle enough current to support the claimed power - and they've never blown.)
For the record, it has 2 x 20A fuses, which even at 14.4V would only be 576W across 4 channels, if there were no heat, etc. losses, yet somehow it's rated at like 900W just on the bridged mono channel. Yeah, no.

edit:
Lanzar, Hifonics, Precision Power, and several other of the old prestige brands are in the same boat as Soundstream.
Remember that absolute monster of an amp from Precision?

edit edit: Precision Power is owned by Epsilon Electronics, the same company as Soundstream, who also own Power Acoustik, another name I remember from back then, though they claim they are "one of the few true manufacturers of car audio and video products in the United States while seeking American and Korean influence in product software development." At least one model series says "Made in Korea" on the web page, and none of the rest say "Made in USA."

Hmmm. Wonder if Orion is still around?

edit yet again: yes, and it *was* owned by the company that owns Lanzar Pro (Lanzar [no "Pro"] is owned by the parent company of Pyle? Jesus, what a mess). Now owned by the company that owns Alphasonik - and will be made in USA. Not sure about previously.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jul 6, 2023

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Sweet! Love it when the solution is relatively easy.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Don Dongington posted:

Imo just sub to Williston Audio Labs on YouTube and let Big D do the work for you.

He buys and tests all manner of cheap eBay/Amazon kit, and based on some of the amp dyno runs I've seen, it's never been cheaper to chuck 1000+ RMS in the trunk of a car. A lot of this has to do with Class D amps being cheap to make and super efficient vs the older Class AB kit from the Orion/Soundstream/etc glory days.

Some insane subs for the money too.

https://youtube.com/@wal


Seconded. I'm already subbed. When I see an interesting amp, I go see if he's already tested it.
Currently looking at the Skar RP-1200.1D to go with my Skar 10" sub. The 4-channel amp I'm using with the rear 2 channels bridged to the sub is running out of balls really fast. Bass can't keep up with the rest of the system volume, so I obviously need MOAR POWAH. Big D tested it and it hit rated power, so good enough for me.

Nocheez posted:

Also, mine crashes way more than I'm happy with. Just FYI.

Mine doesn't crash, but it does occasionally show a blank screen when you switch to/connect CarPlay. A reboot fixes it, but the only way to reboot it is cycle the *car's* power. You can't really turn the head unit off from the front panel - just put it on standby.
Make sure you've got the latest firmware, to start.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


RIP Paul Walker posted:

Thanks for the trip down nostalgia lane... I might need to put one of these into my Fiero as maximum throwback. Had one of the lower-end ones in high school that had the sweet display but am pretttttty sure no dolphins. The internet said the dolphin hu was a 2002 release and I think I got mine in 2001 sometime.

I've got a Sony with the flip around front and a bunch of animated displays. At least, I think I still have that one. Might slap that one into my RX-7 if I can find a BT solution I like. It does have aux, so shouldn't be a problem.

This is very similar if not the one I have:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNx-gEi-AmI

He cycles through several of the displays.
I got it from a friend who opened the front enough that it broke the ribbon cable. I replaced that, and it worked perfectly. The secret is, don't open it. You can control almost everything with one of the big console mounted Sony remotes. I only opened it to change CDs, and that not often.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Nocheez posted:

Wow, a working Sony head unit from the dark ages! I love that the fix to using the unit is to not use one of its features.

I mean, typical.
You *can* still get the repair/replacement ribbon cables for it and it's siblings, if you just want to fix it every few years.

My Cutlass has a unique head unit: the Kenwood KRC-3006, one fo the very few shafted ("3-hole") head units that was a CD-changer controller, and yes, I have a working 10-disc changer for it as well. At least, it was working last I tried it. Currently it has an aux-input adapter, like His Divine Shadow is talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1yhvwYuKiI

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Nocheez posted:

I wasn't in the scene that long ago, but I'm pretty sure my brother had that changer in his trunk. Want to listen to a different CD that he didn't load? gently caress you! We're not pulling over.

Well, mine's a 10-CD, so plenty of (my) choices.
edit: that I don't use since I have an aux input and a phone. ...which no longer has an 3.5mm headphone jack.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Yeah, GPS always comes from the phone when using CarPlay apps, for what should be obvious reasons (you're using the phone app.)
The wireless CarPlay adapter I got along with my Atoto head unit works really well 98% of the time. Actually, lately, it's worked 100% of the time, and the head unit actually displaying video from CarPlay about 98%, but that's easily fixed by turning off/turning back on.

I should really connect that Atoto wireless CarPlay up to my wife's Alpine and see if it works there.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


I guess in a small sealed box 28mm equates to a fair amount of pressure. Impressive.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Regarding the parking brake connection - yes, the head unit will have a wire for that, and you will need to connect it in order to access the setup menus deeper that very basic stuff, and any video capabilities. You can't just ground it - they got wise to that after the first generation. You have to pull and release the e-brake a few times to unlock.
Of course, the aftermarket has addressed that: they make circuits that will just repeatedly apply and release ground for a few seconds that you can wire in.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

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What is "AM"?
:P

edit: it also wouldn't surprise me if the radio just has terrible AM, because no one cares.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Lowclock posted:

Well at least it works and it wasn't anything special to begin with, but you definitely could've saved yourself a lot of trouble.

....aaaaand now I need to go check what model the two Alpine cassette-deck changer controller head units I have are. My memory is supplying 7904 and 7906, but I'm not confident of that. I do have a working CD changer for them, and one head unit is basically the same head unit but with more features.

edit: no, those aren't right. 7904 is the classic CD player.

edit again: OH MY GOD LOOOK AT THIS THING
https://www.ebay.com/itm/296229614099

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Feb 21, 2024

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Ehud posted:

If I don't care about ever having a rear view camera and I prefer buttons, is there any reason to go for a touchscreen head unit?

I just got this little 2009 Mazdaspeed 3 and I'm trying to figure out how I want to upgrade the stock head unit. I feel like I could get a little oldschool single din unit and have more $$$ left over to swap out the speakers and whatnot.


edit: I think all I really care about is bluetooth to play spotify and upgrading the overall audio quality to not sound like butt like it does right now

If that's all you want just get a typical single-DIN head unit, unless you just want nice visual displays.

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