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BJA posted:Never really thought about this before, but I have a question. Last year I bought a mtx 12" sub, it recommended a sealed box but I already had a ported box so I just used that. I want to buy a second sub this year so I was thinking about buying one that recommended a ported box and swapping boxes since the sub I have is discontinued anyway. What's your goal with this setup? Are you just trying to go louder? What style box is it? Back maybe 15 years ago  I had a box with a window on one end, the sub mounted inside, and a port on the other end. A bit hard to describe, and I can't find a pic of it. I want to say it was an MTX Thunder box, but GIS is failing me for the exact style. Anyway, I got a 2nd sub (same size), mounted it in the same box right up against the existing one (facing it) and wired it out of phase, so that it would be "pulling" when the other was "pushing".  holy poo poo. It was the loudest poo poo I'd ever heard. Power handling went way up, since the two speakers were limiting each others' movement. I've since outgrown that sort of thing, and just have a single 10" in a sealed box in my main car now, but that old setup was super loud, and very clean. I didn't have to sacrifice any more trunk space either. Only problem was that the car sounded like it was going to rattle apart on the outside. Never was able to fix that.
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Dec 6, 2012 07:56
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Poing posted:That's a bandpass box, and (as you stated) a push/pull setup. Bandpass is good when you want deep and loud, but it requires more space. Lowclock posted:Those would be called a single reflex bandpass box, and then a "clamshell" isobaric single reflex. Bandpass boxes are amazing if they're built correctly, but they're harder to design and build than most others. Isobaric is nice too if you have no space. Bandpass.  That's it. I couldn't remember the word for it. Believe it or not, I knew quite a bit about this stuff some years ago, but have forgotten a lot of it.This was an off-the-shelf box, but it was heavy and felt very sturdy. I still have it (with both drivers in it) at my parents' house in fact, along with a few late '90s amplifiers and other crap. I really should get around to selling some of that stuff.
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Dec 7, 2012 03:41
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
I got a Viper 5904 over the summer that I want to install in my car. I don't suppose you'd be able to get ahold of alarm related wiring diagrams for a 1994 BMW 840Ci? I've done shitloads of car stereo installs, but never an alarm / remote start. 
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Dec 8, 2012 03:33
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I can help with DEI and Compustar product questions and access vehicle wiring info
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Lowclock posted:The12Volt.com is just as good as some subscription places when it comes to that stuff. Which is to say, not very good, but enough to get you through it. I've had the Python version of that alarm in my 540 for a while and it's been great. Automatically rolling up your windows and sunroof when you lock the car is awesome. Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Oh boy...Directechs has almost nothing for wiring info. I'll look around at work tomorrow though. If you do manage to find anything, I'd be grateful  e: I'll post up my impressions of the system once I get it in there. Won't be until at least spring though, gently caress installing an alarm in the driveway when it's <40f out and the car is hibernating for the winter anyway.
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Dec 8, 2012 05:53
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powderific posted:Allright, I've come to the conclusion that the component set I put in isn't likely to have the response I want no matter what I do to the crossover. Even with -9db on the frequencies covered by the tweeter and the midrange cranked up they're exceptionally fatiguing. The high range actually does sound fantastic, but the mids just can't keep up without cranking it. It's a really fatiguing sound and I'd actually rather just not listen to it at all. I remember there being a way to knock down response by putting in resistors. Found a link: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/10650-reducing-tweeter-level-passive-network.html
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Dec 17, 2012 02:15
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:http://i.imgur.com/DJlBW.jpg  No, you are awesome, this should help a ton. "Not in our computers"  is kind of a common theme for this car, so I'm pumped whenever I can scavenge something from somewhere without having to whip out the ETM.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:10
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Lowclock posted:Replace the Sound Ordinances with something else and order it all from Amazon instead. Ehh, the one thing about Crutchfield is that they don't really deal in bullshit brands. The "worst" stuff they sell is usually mid grade. I haven't heard much about SO, but the fact that Crutchfield sells them at all says something (unless things have changed over there since I have looked into this stuff). They are probably a new brand that hasn't really established a rep yet, unlike the big brands that have been around for 15+ years. I would bet that the brand is fine - possibly one of those brands that are actually pretty good, but without the Big Brand price tag. That said, all companies (even the big names) have their budget / crap lineup, in addition to the good stuff. Which is usually "OK" but never "great". Both sets of speakers linked have kind of lame power ratings - the SOs at 55w RMS, and the Pioneers at 40w RMS, which really kind of sucks for 6x9" and 6.5" speakers. OK for head unit power, but if you ever decide to build it up and use dedicated speaker amps, you're going to want something with better RMS ratings. I'd consider saving a bit more cash and getting something a bit higher end, honestly.
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Dec 30, 2012 09:46
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the posted:EDIT: Crutchfield doesn't sell BOSS electronics, how can I find out if this fits my car? Heh, this is exactly what I was talking about when I said that Crutchfield doesn't deal in bullshit brands. You don't want anything that says BOSS on it. Adding an amp is kind of an involved installation process, if you do it "right", and still requires a lot more disassembly and running of cable even if you halfass it. You have to run all new speaker wiring, RCAs, power / ground cables, mount the amp somewhere, etc. If this is just a basic audio system for an A-B car, I'd skip it unless you know how to do it already or want to learn. That said, Blaupunkt is decent, although the kind of amp you're going to find for $50 is likely to be a tiny 2 channel, which won't really be a ton better than deck power, and will definitely not be worth the added headache of installing it. Plus, all amplifiers will require at least a basic installation kit (speaker wires, RCAs, power / ground cable, terminals, and a fuse holder) in addition to the amp itself. With that kind of budget limitation, I'd look on CL for a deal on a decent used amp if you still wanted to go that route. Ideally, you basically want to at least loosely match the RMS rating of the amplifier / power source to the RMS rating on the speakers. Running speakers rated at 40w RMS on a 100w RMS amp channel will likely result in them blowing up as soon as you put the volume up a bit. Ignore "peak" wattage, this is marketing bullshit and not a reliable / significant spec. You can run speakers with higher RMS ratings than the power they are getting (like speakers rated at 100w RMS can be powered on a 25w channel off a head unit) but they won't sound nearly as good as they will with higher power input.
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Dec 30, 2012 22:21
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Puddin posted:But seriously though how hard is it to just to tap up the ends just for a little bit of safety. I'f I every get rid of the stereo, its going to be make sure that it's wrapped to within an inch of its life. This is cool, until the electrical tape goes through a couple summers, gets gooey, and starts unraveling. It's much safer / easier to just pull the fuse from the fuse holder that's near the battery*. If none is present, slap whoever did the installation and install one. Worst case, disconnect the power cable and use a zip tie to tie it off somewhere that won't get in the way. *Unless it's one of the lovely round glass tube fuse holders that rely on the fuse being in place to keep the cable ends apart. In this case, use a non-conductive stiff material as a spacer in place of the fuse.
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Jan 4, 2013 00:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yep, this is the giant pain in the rear end in replacing a Bose system in seemingly any car. It was the case all the way back with the Delco/Bose in our '94 Z28, and as far as I know it's still the case with the Bose in my '07 Mazdaspeed3. You either have to find stock replacements or look at a total swapout. I'm going through this all now with the Bose poo poo in my '03 Escalade. I decided to just replace the speakers and run everything off the stock amp for now to see what happens. I pulled the speakers and found surprisingly normal ohm ratings across the terminals (yeah, I know not the whole story for speaker impedance but at least a good baseline). I got 3.5 ohms out of the rear door speakers, 3.3 out of the front door speakers, 3 ohms out of each VC on the factory (DVC) sub...and 12 ohms out of the 2.5" rear pillar speakers. Welp. I guess they can't all be easy. The only thing I didn't check was the front A-pillar tweeters, which are wired in parallel with the doors. From everything I'm reading, those are 3.x ohms as well. Meaning, I can drop a 2 ohm set of components up front, a 4 ohm set in the rear doors and a DVC 4 ohm in the sub enclosure without worrying about frying the amp. Not much can be done about the rear pillar speakers I guess, but since those are the least important I don't care about them all that much.
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Jan 31, 2013 02:12
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Noni posted:I'm a complete newbie to car audio, but I thought I could at least install a head unit. But I need advice, please. This is the back of my new unit, which is really a refurb: That harness (assuming you bought it separate from the deck) is supposed to plug into your car's wiring. You solder / crimp the harness that (should have) came with the deck to that one. The idea being you don't hack up your OEM wiring to install it.
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Feb 6, 2013 00:33
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Noni posted:2001 Honda Accord DX, Pioneer DEH-4400HD Usually the customer service is pretty good about things like this. I bet they'd just send you one if you called them. I had a Rockford Fosgate deck back in the mid-'90s that had a couple of the RCA preouts (they were built into the harness) start to flake out. Called them, and they had a new one in the mail to me free of charge that same day. I got the deck as a floor model at Best Buy, so who knows what kind of abuse it took before I got it. I'm still using it in my Prelude in fact.
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Feb 6, 2013 00:50
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davertron posted:My head unit in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee is dead (it's not the factory head unit; the previous owner installed it), and since I'm only interested in listening to music/podcasts on my iPhone I thought I might try my hand at just plugging my iPhone directly into my speakers. I know a little about electronics but haven't ever replaced a head unit in a car or anything. I'd like to learn more about car audio in general, so I thought this would be a good project. When you consider the fact that a basic head unit that will do what you need is probably $60 - $80 and will drop right in with an hour's worth of (easy) work, doing all this runaround poo poo trying to reinvent the wheel for far reduced functionality just isn't worth it. Just get a replacement HU and be done with it, IMO. If not spending money is your goal, this is the cheapest / easiest way to do it, plus it'll make the car a lot easier to sell on when you're done with it. e: installing an aftermarket amp will require running all new wires (power, ground, turn-on, speakers), probably all new speakers (the factory crap in that car is probably good for about 15w RMS or so) and running a feed cable to the amp somewhere accessible. You may be able to limp by with OEM speakers on an extremely low power amp, but you'll likely pop one or more of them as soon as you turn it up to get over expressway road noise. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 00:37
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davertron posted:Yeah, I had a feeling "buy a new HU" was going to be the answer To be fair, you could get away with wiring the outputs of the amp directly to the existing speaker wires in the dash harness behind the existing head unit, but this is a really goddamn ghetto way to do it, plus you'd have to either put the amp somewhere in the dash  or extend the wires to wherever you decide to mount it. No way around running a new power / ground wire though, even the shittiest aftermarket amps require at least 12 gauge wire.
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 04:32
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Recommend me a subwoofer! The factory Bose sound system in my 2003 Escalade kind of sucks, so I'm doing a half rear end upgrade. Speakers are taken care of, but now it's time to do something about the factory sub. The problem is, I need something with rather specific requirements. Losing cargo space is not an option, so I managed to get a good deal on a used MTX Thunderform to fit in the rear side panel. This is a sealed enclosure with 0.8 cubic feet of interior volume and a cutout for a 10" speaker, max mounting depth 4-13/16". I already have a JL Audio 10W6V2-D4 sub I picked up years ago I was going to use, but it needs 6-15/16" of depth. Not going to work obviously, so I need to find something that will and toss the JL on Ebay I guess. I'll be running it off of a Cadence IA7 amplifier which will do 600WRMS at 2 ohms. I'm not trying to rattle windows, looking more for tight controlled sound. Tl;dr - Sub requirements: 10" Mounting depth no greater than 4-13/16" Optimized for an 0.8 cubic ft sealed enclosure, or at least in that ballpark Ability to handle in the 600WRMS range Ideally, the ability to run at 2 ohms - so, either a single VC at 2 ohms, or dual 4 ohm VCs. 1 ohm would be OK as well, 4 ohm only if I couldn't find anything else. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Feb 16, 2013 20:23
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Lowclock posted:Might as well just mount the JL with the motor out. (Not kidding) You mean mount it facing inwards? That won't work - the whole thing has to sit behind a side panel. I would guess there's only an inch or two of clearance. I found a couple pics that show what I'm dealing with (it's a Tahoe, same thing). Still don't know where I'm going to put the amp either, but that shouldn't be too hard to figure out. I'm guessing I've got some space behind the panel on the other side.  
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Feb 17, 2013 00:45
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Kachunkachunk posted:I haven't heard thin woofers yet, but here's the thin version of what I'm using: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-t10/. Yeah, kind of pricey.  Those SWRs look nice, but wouldn't come close to fitting.Most of the shallow subwoofers I'm finding seem to be either underwhelming or expensive as poo poo. I think the Sundown SD-2 is probably what I'm going to end up with. I can't find much about it in terms of reviews, but what little I have found has been overwhelmingly positive, it seems to come at least close to what I'm looking for, and it should (barely) fit. I'm still on the hunt though.
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Feb 17, 2013 07:36
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Do any decent brands make single-din flip out screen in dash nav units anymore? My old Pioneer AVIC-N3 is failing, and I'm looking to replace it but have mostly only been able to turn up stuff from Pyle, Boss, and Jensen, plus a handful of no-name Chinese knockoff type brands. I'd like another Pioneer, but they don't seem to offer anything currently that will work, unless I'm missing it. The one decent looking unit I've found is the Clarion NZ-503, which I'll probably end up with unless any other options turn up. Are there any others worth looking at, or does anyone have any experience with this unit? Also, I guess I haven't looked at this stuff in a while so I should probably ask - have any of the aforementioned brands stepped up their game from where they were in the mid '00s? Back then at least, Pyle and Boss were generally regarded as poo poo tier, with Jensen being slightly better although still pretty mediocre.
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Jul 26, 2015 01:28
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I'm finally looking to put in dash navigation into my beater 1989 Prelude, and am having a bit of trouble finding something that is an exact match for what I want. I have a bit of an odd list of requirements, which is making it difficult to search for things by normal means. The car has a double DIN opening, but is set up in a way that any head unit I get must come with a mounting sleeve / cage. Some I have looked at (Pioneer for example) don't have the mounting sleeve. Also, it doesn't need to necessarily be a new model. As long as it meets my requirements, used / a few years old is just fine. Of course, all any of the websites want to sell are the 2015 / 2016 models, so the older ones don't show up in "standard" searches either. I don't really give too many fucks about smartphone integration, because I hate dealing with my phone when I'm driving and it seems like the signal goes out when it's most needed anyway. Yet that's all the current review sites seem to talk about. Anyway, that said, here's my list: Double DIN size Built in navigation (flash memory based) CD / DVD slot Cage / sleeve mount Free lifetime OTA live traffic updates (nothing that requires tethering to a phone, or a paid subscription) A knob to control volume (not a deal breaker by itself I guess, but I kind of hate volume buttons) Available for less than $400 or so (new / used / refurbished / whatever). Somewhat flexible here, but I don't necessarily want the newest / flashiest thing in this car, nor do I want to pay for it. The hardest requirement in this list to satisfy seems to be traffic. It seems Kenwood was doing free traffic a few years ago - someone in another forum was saying they have a DNX7190HD from 2012 that does it - but apparently they've switched to some INRIX bullshit now that requires a subscription and tethering to a phone, which are both things I don't want to deal with. Does anyone know of anything that may fit?
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Dec 31, 2016 09:17
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I haven't tried the traffic stuff (reviews say it works tho), but I got this for my sister earlier this year and she loves it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3QC3JS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks for the suggestion! I haven't read too much online about the traffic capabilities yet, but am still digging into it. Still have a lot of research to do before I pick something, but this looks like it may fit, provided I can get traffic on it. If free realtime traffic proves to be unobtainable for whatever reason, I'll have to change my scope a bit. It seems weirdly scarce on head units, although it seems like every standalone GPS has it. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't know about the rest, but you need a mounting kit - that way you won't need to worry about the cage. Most of them are single DIN, but I found this double DIN kit (note: I've never ordered from this company before). Ahh, I can't believe I forgot that mounting kits were a thing Supposedly, double din HUs are (officially, anyways) not an option for this car - even Crutchfield says that only single-din will fit. I was going off of old Prelude forum posts that basically said "To fit a double din you either need to hack up the dash bracket and screw the unit directly to it, or find one with a cage". Not wanting to chop up a getting-hard-to-find OEM dash bracket, I figured caged was my only option. Didn't even think about trying to find a double din dash kit. I was originally kind of looking at Pioneers, only because I have an ancient AVIC-N3 in my other car and it's been mostly great, although it's super dated now and I had to open it up and replace the touch screen last year. Also, it's DVD based and the most current maps available are from 2012, with no updates being made  However, it seems like they have done away with mounting sleeves (at least in the current crop of double din nav units) so I had previously ruled them out.
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Jan 5, 2017 06:16
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