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Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

the posted:

Alright then, this is what I'm thinking of getting:



Look good? Also, how do I know what additional installation equipment I need?

If your not amping up the speakers the only thing that I can think of is sourcing a patching loom for your car.

Something like this http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autoleads-pc2094-honda-accord-accord-coupe-ballade-civic-wiring-harness-p-9180.html

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Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
I just bought a new amp and totally forgot about how the previous owner had 0-gauge running to the back of the car.

They must have had a huge system in it, but the thing that got me the most was the fact that the took out the stereo, left the wire in but it was looped together and stuffed up under the back parcel shelf.
Not even any tape over the exposed wire, I must have driven the car for a year before I traced the wire to its location.

It has a circuit breaker about 10cm from the battery, I can't remember if it was isolated at the time though, could have very well have had a post in the failure thread on how my car caught fire.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Kachunkachunk posted:

Ugh that's pretty irresponsible in itself, but at least you don't have to run the power wire yourself. Get a good distribution block and run your amp from that with the desired gauge. I run 0-gauge myself, but it was... interesting trying to get it through the firewall. I literally had to tape, shape, and lube it before it went through. :heysexy:

That's what I've just done, got a 1 to 4 Block, and running 4-gauge to the amp that sits now about 20cm from the block.

But seriously though how hard is it to just to tap up the ends just for a little bit of safety. I'f I every get rid of the stereo, its going to be make sure that it's wrapped to within an inch of its life.

In any case, my new amp has now shown me that I either have to, buy a new sub box to replace my lovely home made one or buy a nice sub+box combo.

I'll probably go for the latter as the sub is one of 2 that I bought way back in 2000 from my holiday to the UK.

That's right I went on holiday back to the UK from AU and came back with 2 12inch subs and an amp in a second suitcase. To be fair, I bought all the gear for like 60 pounds, which would have cost me well over $800 back home.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Black88GTA posted:

This is cool, until the electrical tape goes through a couple summers, gets gooey, and starts unraveling. It's much safer / easier to just pull the fuse from the fuse holder that's near the battery*. If none is present, slap whoever did the installation and install one. Worst case, disconnect the power cable and use a zip tie to tie it off somewhere that won't get in the way.

*Unless it's one of the lovely round glass tube fuse holders that rely on the fuse being in place to keep the cable ends apart. In this case, use a non-conductive stiff material as a spacer in place of the fuse.

I totally agree there, au summers get drugging hot and it wouldn't last. I was more commenting on the lax attitude of the previous owner.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Knyteguy posted:

Just a little update on the tablet install (2004 F150 Extended Cab)
Got a KAC-8105D http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entertainment/amplifiers/kac-8105d installed with a http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR102/Kicker-10CVR102.html 10" Kicker Comp VR. I had to use a Scosche line-out converter with some t-splices from the stock wires to get it to work with the factory stereo. The line-out converter will eventually be used for a 2-channel amplifier connected to the front speakers, and my EQ/line driver will take care of the sub as far as I know. Unfortunately the amp I bought was open box and it didn't have the speaker level input wire.

Right now the sub is in a .75 ft^3 and it's not the sound I'm quite looking for (and it's not even within the minimum cubic feet specs according to Kicker). I couldn't find the cubic feet of the box when I bought it. I'm having a custom sealed box made with 3/4" MDF 15"H/D/W external dimensions that I'm hoping will make it boomier as it will about double the cubic feet. I used a 6 gauge wiring kit so for a couple front speakers I should have just enough power for a decent amp to be powered with a distribution block. I'm sure there's a little power loss from this, but hopefully not much.

Just need to rebuild the budget and then the tablet, EQ, and front components will be next.

E: Really bummed I chose a 2 ohm DVC sub as my single sub. I was thinking I could run it @ 2 ohms with the 500 watt RMS that amplifier is rated at, because the sub is a 400 watt RMS sub. However I learned that I had to wire both coils so it ends up being a 4 ohm sub or a 1 ohm sub :\. Oh well I got it for $40.00 cheaper at Best Buy than I could find either version anywhere else.

Just checked your sub amp from your listing, it's rated at 500w at 4 ohm not 2 ohm. Either way that should be pumping in a decent box.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Hey, at least their all crimped up and not just twisted and taped.

Can you source a patch loom for your head unit/car combo?

I bought ones from a reseller of https://www.aerpro.com goods when I put in my new head unit.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

atomicthumbs posted:

Is a patch loom the same thing as this? That site doesn't seem to have anything other than mounting plates for a 1988 Volvo 240.

Yeah it probably won't have anything for your car as it probably doesn't have the volume of units to warrant making one.

Crutchfield probably have the female adapter for your cars wiring harness, you just want to make sure that the plug is the same shape as the white adapter you have in your photos. You'll have to join the correct wires to from that to the end of the wires that come with the plug with the head unit.

If your car did have an adapter kit from that site basically you buy two plugs, one that matches your input plug on the head unit that goes to a standard male outlet plug, and one that matches your cars wiring harness to a standard female outlet plug.

No splicing or cutting of wires, just a simple plug and play job.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
It's not, the inline fuse holder is the white cylinder behind that. The black box is the isolator.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Looks good man! How's it sound?

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
I've always installed all my components, but friends that have paid for installs over here in AU have said to me on a number of occasions that most places charge about $60 per component (per pair for speakers).

And yeah, if your stock speakers sound good enough and your head unit allows the ability to add a sub, why not? No need spending on things that you don't need.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

the posted:

Finally installed my stereo deck today. Took 4 hours but it was a fun learning experience.

A few questins/issues:

1. The front left speaker doesn't work. I am not sure if it worked prior (this car is from 98). But I double checked all the speaker wires (front positive/negative) and they appear to be working. Any other way to test?

If you have it all connected, just go into the settings and move your balance to left and fade to forward, that will isolate all sound going not going to that speaker.

If you can't hear anything then its stuffed.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Yeah that's normally caused by induction from the power line if you run your RCA's next to it.

You really should be running them either side of the vehicle and if they do need to cross, makes the crossover perpendicular.

Definitely needs a good, clean earth as well, with it being as short as possible.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

LloydDobler posted:

So how is the MP3 searching on those newest head units? I don't use an iPod and my real goal would be to have a big SSD hooked up to a head unit with a large library of tunes on it, somewhere around 60 gigs. From what I've seen, searching leaves a lot to be desired, but I haven't looked lately. It just seems they cater to iPods and nothing else. I want to be able to find either a specific artist, album, or track with a minimum of clicks or menus. It also needs to support custom playlists with ease and simplicity. Is there any particular unit or brand that does this really well?

In a perfect world I'd have a head unit with wifi and a giant hard drive right in it.

I thought about getting an Ipod classic to plug in, but there's so much effort in searching for what you want to listen to unless you have one of the head units that mimics the ipod setup if you don't want to use the ipod to search.

I just roll with 2x 8gb usb sticks.

It holds enough music for a long drive and it's just easier to put new music on the one that's not being used to swap it over when I want to listen to something new.

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Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

bolind posted:

Not much to do about car audio, but I figured this might be a good place to ask anyway: where can I get that black non-sticky-yet-sticks-to-itself wrap that is used for making cable harnesses? I'm rewiring my car for powered seats, and figured I'd try to make it look reasonably stock.

Suggestions for alternatives also very welcome.

The tesa tape has be suggested, but you could always use some spiral sleeving as well to bunch wires together.

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