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So Im running a JL 10W7 off a JL 500/1 in my miata. I have two issues. First, with no boost on the amp, bass turned all the way down on the stock head unit, and my phone in bass reduction mode, the base can be overpowering. Only way to fix that is a new more adjustable head unit right? Second, the miata battery doesn't seem up to task for powering the set up. At slightly loud volumes the lights dim and idle drops. If im having a good time with the top down on the highway, the lights seriously dim and you can tell its having an impact on the sound quality. A friend recommended a capacitor, would this fix my problem? Or is my battery the issue here?
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Dec 11, 2012 04:30
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 23:40 |
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My brother (an EE) is currently working on a tablet HU. Still in the early phases, but he has a android tablet working with light sensors, and physical buttons and knobs. His intention is to make it a fully functioning head unit, and set it up so that you dont have to use the touch screen when driving since that can be a bit of a pain in the rear end. Its slow going right now, but if your interested ill post updates when meaningful things happen.
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Dec 18, 2012 16:26
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If you have the cash, Dynavin seems to make a nice OEM looking product that works with all the BMW bits. http://www.dynavin.com/products/product_dnv_e46.php
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Apr 24, 2013 22:13
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Guinness posted:Yeah I've looked at it, but I'm not trying to spend nearly $1000 on a replacement (once you include the HVAC relocation kit). Also I've read some pretty mixed things about the Dynavin, even the new D99 Android ones. Build quality is supposedly pretty bad and the interface is not particularly nice. For almost $1000 I expect a flawless product. I put a DICE in my mom's E46 M3. It was pretty painless other than running the ipod cable into the center council cleanly was a bit of a bitch. Otherwise its been pretty good. All the buttons work just like you were working the CD player. She doesn't have the HK though so in my opinion its a bit gutless sounding. Hers was an early unit and the cable came apart. They sent us a whole new unit with thicker cable. Its been holding up well so far. Her's does not have bluetooth though. I think it uses digital audio though so I think with adapter it would work with the iPhone 5 (I don't know if lightning compatibility is important to you).
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Apr 25, 2013 01:25
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Im looking to order either Kenwood KDC-HD455U or a Pioneer DEH-6400BT to replace the stock radio in my NA Miata. It would be a used unit. Mostly Im looking for bluetooth and ability to work with an iphone 5 for the least amount of money. It looks like the used HU will run me about $50. I will probably put Polk DB651s in later. Right now its the factory speakers with a JL 500/1 pushing a JL 10W7 in the trunk. So I guess I want the head unit to also be able to offer more control over the sub vs my factory unit. Audio quality is only semi important as its a loud rear end soft top so I wont be able to hear the sound quality difference between bluetooth streaming and digital in with a crazy high quality DAC. Sadi fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 20:25
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some texas redneck posted:I used to have the DEH-6400BT. It's not a bad stereo at all. Looking at used prices, I think im probably going with the 6500BT. Its about the same price or a few dollars more than the 6400BT on the used market.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:18
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nwin posted:Alright question for my new iPhone 5s and how to integrate it into my car. My vote is cheap new bluetooth head unit or something like that. Or a bluetooth adapter that has aux out. The lightning connector dropped analog audio from its support. The 30pin had analog audio out. Chances are your old unit doesnt have an DAC built in so it cant do anything with the digital audio input. I dont know if the 30pin to lightning adapters have a DAC to provide analog out.
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Oct 3, 2013 20:28
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For car audio Ive only ever done a sub with a monoblock amp, a head unit, and some door speakers. I just bought an E46 M3 and its speakers / sound system suck. I plan on replacing its 6.5 in speakers and leaving the tweeters and the mid size tweeters for now. With the stock head unit it sounds like I should buy an amp for the 6.5s as well. The stock head unit has a weird ohm rating for the speakers iirc. Do I need a 2 ch or a 4 ch amp for that? What about an equalizer? I really dont even know where to start with this. EDIT: I should add I want to keep the stock head unit as I feel like anything aftermarket looks like trash in the BMW dash.
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Jul 14, 2014 21:55
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I need to get differently balanced audio out from my head unit into a 4 ch amp. Im debating if I pony us for a JL 300/4 which would natively support it or if I dig around for a converter and use a cheaper JX amp or just go with another brand. Any one know of a good converter for deferentially balanced inputs or a good amp for the money that can take them?
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Aug 1, 2014 14:54
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 23:40 |
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LessThanThree posted:If you have a stock head unit you'd probably want a line out converter where you could connect your high level inputs, and then connect your amp. I wonder if an AudioControl LC6i (or similar) would work for your purposes? I hadnt looking into JBL stuff. Looking at the MS8 lead me to the MS-A1004. That seems like it may be ideal for what I am looking to do. I was looking at used JL300/4s and they are near as much as a new JBL A1004. My only fear is the A1004 is a D type. I have heard to stay away from those for higher than sub frequency speakers.
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Aug 1, 2014 19:16
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