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It warms the heart to know that for slightly more than the cost of a current gen iPad, you can get something equivalent to a HTC wildfire bolted to the front of a cheap Bluetooth head unit from around the same period. And that's before you buy the integration kit that actually allows you to fit it and not lose most of the functionality of the base model OEM unit.
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2022 17:40 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 18:08 |
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How do these ATOTO units and similar go with steering wheel controls? I scrolled through some of the Amazon reviews and Q&A for their A6 and it seems to support it for Subarus via an Aerpro harness, but curious to see how that works in practice?
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# ¿ Oct 26, 2022 18:10 |
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Yeah, I'm not sure why they retained the "CD Changer" labelling for that port given that the earlier IS300 I have (03) also had a factory 6 cd changer. I'm guessing they wanted to retain the ability to add inputs like your iPod adaptor as factory add-ons later, so they just threw the plug from the single CD Camry and corolla head units on there too. I have a little ebay box that plugs into it that provides an aux in, as well as a USB port for a thumb drive. If you put albums in folders in the correct config it will pretend to be a cd changer, so the unit has programming and logic to accept an external stacker as well as the internal one. Probably handy given the in dash cd changer fails fairly consistently after about 100,000km. It was a pretty janky solution though so I eventually swapped it out for an Alpine double din with Bluetooth. Probably worth noting that almost every Toyota head unit from around 1997-2010 or something had a version of that port. Mine has an adaptor as the deck on the IS uses the older version, but it's literally just a different plug.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2023 16:16 |
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Imo just sub to Williston Audio Labs on YouTube and let Big D do the work for you. He buys and tests all manner of cheap eBay/Amazon kit, and based on some of the amp dyno runs I've seen, it's never been cheaper to chuck 1000+ RMS in the trunk of a car. A lot of this has to do with Class D amps being cheap to make and super efficient vs the older Class AB kit from the Orion/Soundstream/etc glory days. Some insane subs for the money too. https://youtube.com/@wal
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2023 02:14 |
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Wasabi the J posted:Have you tried a factory reset and double checking your wiring? The head unit in my 2018 outback drives me up the loving wall. It improved a lot with the move to AAWireless, but it will still randomly poo poo the bed and not connect without a cold reboot, which you can't safely so while driving. Carplay works for my partner about 50% of the time, and if it craps out it stays dead for the rest of the day. The biggest issue I have is apparently specific to the pixel series phones, but any time I drive near a cell tower it drops out completely for a minute or two. If I connect via Bluetooth in the same trouble spots it's fine, but AA seems ridiculously sensitive to the slightest dip signal quality.
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2023 17:20 |
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Oh this is the stock Subaru AA/Carplay unit. I did mention it last time I had it serviced, but they didn't have a new firmware version for it and tbh it was the exact same experience in my previous Hyundai Tucson. I think those early AA units must just be garbage, and the Pixel's tendency to just drop the connection every time it finds a new cell tower is making it worse.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2023 17:44 |
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Has anyone had any luck integrating one of those ATOTO units with the factory steering controls on a Subaru? My 2018 outback came with an Android Auto/Carplay unit, but it's really touchy even with the AA-Wireless. Just trying to figure out whether it's worth giving one of those units a try, or whether I should prepare to spend bigger dollars on an Alpine or Kenwood unit that works with one of the aftermarket SWC interfaces (which cost about as much as an ATOTO unit on their own)
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2023 06:20 |
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Mine is the basic Starlink package with the 6.5" screen. Always avoid factory premium setups because they're full of proprietary poo poo, speakers with weird impedance and generally don't sound that great to begin with.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2023 06:55 |
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The 2015+ outbacks are all CANBUS poo poo so the stupidly expensive boxes are required. I had a look on an Australian Crutchfield analogue and it looks like beyond the head unit and fascia kit, to retain all factory capabilities I'd need: - A USB port adaptor ($110AUD) - An SWC interface box ($160 or there abouts) - A factory camera interface box (another $120 or so) - The usual ISO to brand/ISO to factory harness and antenna kits A recent Alpine/Kenwood/Sony etc HU runs $499-599, so overall looking at over $1k AUD. And it's a lease so even more averse to splicing into factory harness etc than I normally would be. Gross.
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2023 12:56 |
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I've used 16mm/ 5/8" MDF for big-boy subs before - but not without double front baffles, window and corner braces, and screw+glue assembly. Usually slot ported too, with additional bracing on the port end. I've had a Type-R blow the corners out of a small slanted sealed 3/4" MDF box before and that's only pushing 18mm Xmax :|
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2023 09:54 |
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Worth noting that some cars also just have lovely acoustics. My IS300 was a notable example of this. Something to do with the design of the cab meant a massive hole around 100hz, which is probably the last place you want that when you're limited to 6.5" drivers mounted in a door cavity. I applied about 20 kilos of sound deadener, cut MDF blanking plates for the doors and installed some beefy kevlar woofers running off a discrete amp and hosed with crossover points and different sub boxes for years, and to be honest my Outback sounds better with stock everything and no sub.
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# ¿ Nov 30, 2023 08:44 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 18:08 |
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My god. All it needs is a little 7" turntable to pop on top, and a pair of Minimus speakers to go with it.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2024 08:29 |