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Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Hard to tell without actual part numbers, but the cheaper kit might be copper clad aluminum wire. At this level of power it shouldn't really matter as long as it's sized and installed correctly.

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Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Captain Log posted:

I'm still loving giddy. I've gone my whole life going from lovely car to lovely car with systems cobbled together from poo poo. This? It's nice.
Awesome. Glad it turned out nice. Which sub did you end up going with? Maybe next you can get a cheap measurement mic and set up some parametric EQ and delay on your phone and get it to a point where you just sit in your car to listen to music, haha.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Nice. That setup seems pretty great if you need space because you can still put stuff on top of it without worrying about poking through a speaker or anything. I'm sure it's a lot more capable than that little under-seat thing too. Ugh trying to find a head unit though. The eternal struggle.

E:

Captain Log posted:

They called me midway through the install to tell me the correct module for the steering wheel controls was already inside the car. The people who put it in a decade ago did it wrong. They fixed it, and now my steering wheel controls work and it didn't cost me anything.
I knew it!!

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Jun 20, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Captain Log posted:

I'm just so loving befuddled at the concept of buying the $299 steering wheel control module, then hooking it up completely wrong and going, "Ehh, when I press a button, something happens. Not the right thing, and it produces a completely random result. Sounds good enough to me."
They were likely embellishing quite a bit. The SWC module for that car is like <$70 retail even now, and if it was hooked up completely wrong it wouldn't work at all. It probably just needed to be reprogrammed which takes like 30 seconds.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Captain Log posted:

Assuredly Stupid Question for a New Sub Owner -

As y'all know, my car's regular speakers are puny. Two 3x3s and two 4x6s. I installed new ones myself, but if I turn up my volume much past mid they start to clap.

Is there any particular recommended way to run my head unit to keep the low end on my sub? I was just using the "Powerful" preset, but switching to "Natural" helps. Also, having the independent little knob to control the sub is helpful.
You can set a high pass filter on your head unit to keep the bass out of your little speakers. I'd probably start with those default settings and maybe raise the frequency a little if it still isn't handling it well. Check out page 166 of this manual.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
DS18 stuff seems pretty cheap. Some of their amps make what they say and not much more, but some don't. A lot of their speakers seem more aimed at PA/chuchero style applications. I have no idea what is available at reasonable prices where you live, but it definitely wouldn't be my first choice.

I've heard Optima quality has suffered in the recent years, but I'm not sure how true that actually is. There's enough companies making AGM batteries now that I don't think they really have much of an advantage anymore beyond marketing. There's some other stuff that people are using now like lithium, SCiB, LTO, and super capacitors, but for the price I wouldn't even consider them unless you are running a ton of power and/or want a lot of key-off time. I'd get the biggest battery you can reasonably fit in the stock location and an upgraded alternator before even thinking about fancy expensive specialized banks.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jul 5, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
No brand is safe. US Amps SQ442 is the same board as a Skar RP-150.4AB.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Jul 16, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
I love that Big D shows what kind of power you can get out of cheap amps now, but man do I hate seeing that garbage rear end SMD gear. Biggest scam in car audio today.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
There's dirt cheap single-din head units now with tons of awesome features, but almost everything has awful segmented LCD screens that look like crap and can barely show half a song title. I guess it's good that the pressure from the Chinese amazon stuff finally forced the mainstream brands into making affordable touchscreen units, but not everyone wants one of those.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
How do you like that Ioxus ultacapacitor thingy? I was considering trying one out just because I saw they have some cheap b-stock ones online.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
If you have something with the standard old analog key wires for the steering wheel controls then you shouldn't need an interface because these Android things can just rebind everything. If you have a "normal" aftermarket deck or some kind of digital steering wheel controls then you'll probably need some stupidly expensive iDatalink box, but depending on the car you might have already needed one anyways.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
You should try some kind of flanged threaded insert with socket headed cap screws and washers if they fit.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
You can get a little Dayton IMM6 mic for like $20-40, or a regular full size USB measurement mic for $70-130 which would go a long way towards identifying what you're missing. You could try stuff like flipping polarity of tweeters or woofers or messing with time alignment if it's a phase issue, but it can be kind of hard to identify the effect of what you're doing because you often can't AB that quickly enough.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Nov 28, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

His Divine Shadow posted:

I upgraded my cassette stereo with an aux input (next to the cigarette lighter). Now if I'd find where I put that last plug so I can cover up the unused button space.
One of those little ebay Ai-Net adapters? I had a bluetooth one that worked great considering it was like $8. It actually outlasted the head unit since almost all the buttons became unusable since they debounced them wrong.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

His Divine Shadow posted:

Nope it's all DIY'ed, I went in and cut the audio paths from the tuner and soldered in new wires and an aux-port, new hole through the back of the stereo as well to run the wires.
Well at least it works and it wasn't anything special to begin with, but you definitely could've saved yourself a lot of trouble.

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Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

His Divine Shadow posted:

I bought one of those and they didn't work.
Ah yeah I guess that would make sense since it's probably before aux out was a popular thing so it probably wants a handshake or something. There's some decent documentation of the M-Bus protocol out there. It would be really cool to like translate AVRCP or something with a little microcontroller and actually make it display track names and progress and change tracks with the head unit controls and stuff.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Feb 19, 2024

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