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PittTheElder posted:e: Oh, and in regards to satellite radio tuners; my car has a satellite radio antenna, is there generally a tuner colocated with it up there? Or would I have to buy one separately if I wanted it to work? Low priority thing of course, I haven't bothered to pay for it in years because there seems to be very little decent content on SiriusXM but I digress. Late the the party, but... You need an add-on tuner, and the factory satellite antenna likely won't plug in. A streaming-only SiriusXM account is considerably cheaper these days (can get the first 3 months free, then threaten to cancel; they'll usually throw out a $30 for 6 months offer pretty quickly.. and they'll actually tell you to call back every 6 months to get the same deal), assuming you have unlimited data or you're on a plan that exempts music streaming from your data caps (such as an older T-Mobile plan). All SiriusXM cares about these days is subscriber count, even if they're almost giving it away. TBH the playlists on many of the stations are stale as hell, Howard Stern is really the only reason to get SiriusXM these days. And he's getting ready to retire anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 05:45
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On the default "normal" audio quality it's pretty meh. There's also High and Maximum. Maximum sounds downright decent, High sounds.... a bit better than normal. I had occasional buffering issues on Maximum. I'm on a T-Mobile plan that has unlimited music/video streaming; normally they force the streaming provider to downgrade down to 128kbps audio, but they don't seem to do that with Sirius. Or didn't last year, anyway. And they don't offer those plans anymore; I'm clinging to this plan as long as I can. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 06:00
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I know at one point, Appradio was THE thing. How has it aged? Roommate gave me his 2015 Pioneer double DIN head unit, and it has Appradio support. I've heard of issues past Android 8 (my phone runs 10). Haven't bothered hooking the phone up to it yet. Not a big deal if it won't play nice, free is free. And I may wind up going back to my 2018 Kenwood in the end (aptX, dual USB on the back so a nice place to power my dashcam, HD Radio tuner). The touchscreen is nice, but I'm already missing having actual buttons (this does have volume buttons though). Specifically, it's the AVH-X4800BS. 
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Jun 21, 2020 07:04
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Yeah I just spent half an hour just getting my phone to work with it, and it absolutely does not like QHD display phones. I can't type anything on the stereo when it's in appradio mode (it thinks I'm 1-2 letters away on the keyboard, depending how far away I am from the center of the screen). Only 2 navigation apps that still work with it, and I can't type on them (they both blank out the phone itself, so there's no inputting it on the phone to get around that limitation). It's also insanely laggy. Probably gonna go ahead and just use the rear USB port to power my dashcam and forget about Appradio. The head unit's screen is properly calibrated. I did find an upside. It doesn't do aptX, but it does do some kind of higher end codec instead of just SBC - my phone shows the HD Audio option for streaming when connected to it (probably AAC? if it was aptX I would get a "Powered by Qualcomm aptX" popup when it connected; not sure aptX even existed in 2015). Streaming sounds fine on it. Phone calls seem to sound better than they did on the Kenwood, though that was just a couple of test calls to my voicemail. Why the gently caress can't they standardize on either 2.5mm or 3.5mm for the loving microphone already?! I didn't feel like tearing the dash and pillar apart to run yet another new mic, so I just snipped the wire at both ends, tucked it away, and ran a new mic to the top of the steering column. At least it's wired properly, with a proper adapter harness, instead of this mess that I encountered removing it from roommate's old car:  Remembered to hook up the antenna amplifier this time too.  e: gently caress Sygic, loving thing is keeping GPS active - my phone battery has dropped 30% in the past hour when it can normally go 2-3 days with light usage. Just uninstalled everything related to Appradio. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 08:27
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Random sidenote: if you have a dashcam, most head units put out enough power to power them from a rear USB port (and a ton of them have at least 1 rear port now). Lets you ditch the power socket supply and cables disappearing into the dash/headliner/etc. Really makes a dashcam install neater if you haven't already picked up a hardwire kit. My HU only has 1 USB port, so I kept it fairly accessible (I can get to the dashcam cable + USB extension cable by popping the ashtray out) in case I need to do a firmware update or, for some weird reason, actually plug a storage device into the stereo.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:52
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If you just need to swap 2 pins, why not de-pin those 2 and put them where you want them? You can sometimes pop them out with a simple paperclip or a pick. If not, you can get a de-pinning tool pretty cheap. Here's an example - I know you said you're in the UK, but Amazon UK probably has something similar.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:52
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Boss is.... okay for low end stuff. They do offer a lot of features for the money, but don't believe for a second the wattage claims. It looks like their current lineup claims 80x4, I'd believe 15x4 from past experience with their amps. Their build quality isn't exactly great either. e: wow, Android Auto for $230 MSRP?
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Sep 16, 2020 14:15
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How good are those spare-tire mounted subs? I don't want to give up my cargo space, and I want to remain stealth. Alternatively, how much does a shop typically charge to build a custom box these days? I've seen some DIY jobs using the right rear quarter (there's some storage compartments in there), but I'd rather not DIY - I'm no good with wood or fiberglass. I do have a good sub and amp in storage. Something like this for a custom box - if someone could build the actual box, I'd be fine carpeting it myself and doing all the wiring. But I have NO clue what that would cost.  Using a stand-alone box is a no-go for this; partly because I sometimes camp in the car. And generally don't want to deal with yanking the box every time I haul something. Having it off to the side like that doesn't take up much usable room, I just lose a storage cubby. Pulling the cargo cover over it would hide it completely from outside. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 14:19
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Metra sells reverse harnesses for exactly this - to regain that factory plug. It's likely the exact same harness that every other 90s Toyota used.
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Mar 20, 2021 17:57
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Humbug posted:If you want complete stealth and practicality, a box molded into the spare tire is also an option. It's what i use in my 850 wagon and everything is completely hidden. Its made of fiberglass, but it wasn't too hard since the spare acts as the fiberglass mold. Its similar to the box in this thread, but with a full size 8' sub since i have a full size spare, and no hole cut in the floor. There's purpose-built spare tire subs with a built-in amp these days, just a little more money than I'd like to spend since I already have a functional amp and sub. Here's one. They just bolt on top of the spare tire, and most of them can be easily unplugged if you need to actually use the spare (I have no plans on ever using mine since it's old enough to enlist in the military... used to be old enough to buy cigarettes until they raised that to 21)
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Mar 22, 2021 13:53
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Darchangel posted:Some of them have a factory sub there in that side panel. Mine does - it's a 6x9 though. No idea how much space is back there - I want to see about slapping in an 8" or something. The Outback I pillaged yesterday had the McIntosh system. I would have grabbed it, except it'd just hit the yard that day... and the rear end in a top hat that processed it hit the lock button before yanking the battery (OR didn't bother unlocking everything), leaving only the driver's door unlocked.  I didn't want to rip apart a perfectly good hatch cover to get to the lock, and I don't have a jump pack. Also the ignition was stuck in run with a broken off screwdriver in it, so there's no telling if a small jump pack would have been able to power it up enough once all the engine computer poo poo powered up.I wanted those C pillar tweets too, but again, it was locked up enough that I couldn't easily remove them without breaking everything.  I'm sure someone will come along with a jump pack (if they haven't already) and unlock it, or tear the hatch apart to unlock it.People have slapped shallow 12s and full depth 10s in that space, BTW, but you have to do a custom enclosure.
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Mar 25, 2021 22:13
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Darchangel posted:I've got to get back there and take a look at what I'm working with. Yeah, take a look at the pillars next time you're back there. This one definitely had them, though it was a 2004. The head unit looked a bit different on this one - no McIntosh branding on it (sub had the branding), but it was a double DIN Subaru head unit with only CD. edit: found a picture of the head unit from a for sale listing for a 2004 LL Bean, the listing also showed a McIntosh sub... didn't show the pillars tho. Makes me wonder if they had to get rid of the McIntosh head unit when they made OnStar an option? Both the junkyard car and the one in this for sale listing showed a McIntosh logo on the 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 08:33
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Dunno if anyone was waiting for the Motorola* MA1 (Android Auto wireless adapter), but mine finally showed up. Easy peasy. Plug it into the stereo's USB port, pair to the adapter via Bluetooth, and once it's paired, it kicks off a wifi connection to the dongle every time the dongle powers up. Takes about a minute from engine startup until I have AA on the stereo instead of ~15-20 seconds, but I'll take that over having to plug it in every time. Lowclock posted:I have a rooted Android phone with Viper4Android and it will automatically apply different profiles depending on the connection, so you can correct the internal speaker, a set of headphones, or bluetooth separately. It's kinda wonky to get working but once you do it seems fine. It's been a looooong time since I used Viper, do you still need root to use it? My head unit also has a 13 band EQ, along with time delay for each speaker (no clue how to use that, so I haven't touched it) I have the typical smiley face EQ profile right now that every 80s/90s kid had on their stereos.  Also lets me set speaker locations and size, which is kinda cool (oddball 6x8 Ford size is in there)
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 03:53
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I'm half deaf at this point anyway. I'm kinda done with rooting these days; my work phone is rooted, but the A/B devices are a different breed than what I'm used to. Plus pretty much everything I listen to is streaming, so something integrated into, say, Poweramp, wouldn't do me any good. It's funny.. my phone has 256GB of storage, but I'd be fine with 64GB. Probably 32GB.. very little is actually stored on the device itself, it's all ~in the cloud~ BonoMan posted:A minute? Geez that's painfully long ha. To be fair, it's a low end JVC head unit. It's not good at anything except sound quality (and that's debatable if you're using an amp.. 2V RCA outs). Ever since I factory reset my phone, the head unit doesn't auto-start AA anyway. Once prices and availability come back down on Pioneer and Kenwood stuff, I'll ditch it for something better. Kinda tempted to see how the MA1 works on my work van (Ford Transit w/Sync 3). Pretty impressed with Sync on it, except if I unplug my phone from USB while on a phone call (or if the cable is starting to fail), the head unit sometimes freezes and needs a hard reset (power + next buttons held down) - won't even power off with the ignition when that happens. It's a much more responsive head unit compared to the JVC though.
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Feb 6, 2022 07:06
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Amazon, when they were taking preorders. Target can let you know when it's back in stock, otherwise you're stuck just checking Amazon and Target every day to see if they've restocked. AAWireless is supposed to be good too (arguably better), but it looks like they're also having stock issues. I did have it disconnect on me earlier, but I'm not sure if that's my phone being weird or not - it was occasionally disconnecting while plugged in, but I was chalking that up to a flaky cable. Need to go down the list of 500+ things that can cause Android Auto to act up.
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Feb 6, 2022 17:47
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Lowclock posted:I think Clarion is pretty much done at this point. That's a marine deck which is why it's also like twice the price it should be. Most manufacturers have color adjustment on all but their lowest end decks, but they're still ugly. I think Clarion is primarily OEM these days - for awhile they were OEM and marine stuff, but I don't see any marine stuff in their current lineup. One 24 volt CD player in the lineup, I assume for big trucks. Shame, they used to put out some nice stuff.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:54
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Most Pioneer and Kenwood is OOS everywhere, except for the real high end stuff and some low end stuff. Crutchfield claims chip shortages. That's why I wound up going JVC.
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Feb 8, 2022 03:02
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An IDE to SD adapter won't work? Also for those considering the Motorola MA1... it's a big roll of the dice with an aftermarket head unit, it's been nothing but skips and disconnects with my JVC. Works great in my work van though (Ford Sync 3.4) - in 8 hours yesterday I never had it disconnect, and only noticed one audio skip. Murders my phone battery, but at least I can plug it into a quick charger for 15 minutes here and there instead of relying on the van's 500mA (which just slows down how fast my phone discharges when using wired AA - and unplugging/plugging the phone back in 80+ times a day doesn't seem good for longevity).
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Feb 9, 2022 14:00
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I've given up on the MA1. It works great in my work van (a skip here and there, but that's over about 7-8 hours), but it absolutely refuses to play nice with my aftermarket head unit. I'd keep it for the work van, but I'm trying to gtfo 
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Feb 12, 2022 19:08
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Well that was quick.  I was gonna throw it in our marketplace thread.E: shipped randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Feb 12, 2022 |
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Feb 12, 2022 20:22
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Tom Guycot posted:the requirements for the name brand units to need to wire up to brake lines and poo poo for safety stuff was just too much to want to bother with  http://www.microbypass.com/Seems Amazon has yanked them and their clones down, but they're still on ebay.
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Feb 15, 2022 02:10
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Darchangel posted:If it's like the wireless CarPlay dongle I have with my Atoto, it uses a BT connection to initiate a Wi-Fi connection That's exactly how wireless Android Auto works.
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Feb 19, 2022 21:32
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Holy oldschool. I never knew Nakamichi made aftermarket head units. e: looking at the specs, that's a damned impressive head unit for 20+ years ago! There's a lot on the market today that don't have 3 sets of RCAs, especially @ 4V (my late model Android Auto JVC only has two sets of RCAs @ 2V). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jun 21, 2022 |
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Jun 21, 2022 16:11
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Goddamnit, guess I'm going down that rabbit hole tonight.
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Jun 24, 2022 07:20
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Darchangel posted:My brother-in-law's Cobalt did that. It literally didn't have a switched power wire on the vehicle side. I was ready for that, since Crutchfield's installation guide for it points it out, along with several other installer sites. FYI only the first few years of Cobalts used the stereo for the DIC; it moved into the dash around 05 or 06. It's funny that the Ion (heavily related to the Cobalt, G5, and HHR), which uses the same stereo on later models (just with an orange display), does have a switched power wire on all years. Also runs all chimes through a tiny speaker on the back of the cluster instead. The car even controlled RAP (retained accessory power) by just keeping the accessory circuit powered, instead of signaling the stereo to shut off. You only need the $$ adapter to retain Onstar - and, well, Onstar is dead on that era GM now (they used VZW 1xRTT or 3G, I forget which... either way, those services are dead). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 7, 2023 |
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Feb 7, 2023 20:08
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My own question - in my experience, the mics that come with most aftermarket head units suck. Is there a way to use the factory microphone on my car? It's in an ideal location and seems to pick up my voice pretty well. Late 2000s Toyota/Lexus with factory bluetooth (but for phone calls only and with horrible lag - like a solid 1-2 second delay when talking). I have no idea how it's wired, but it's in the overhead console. Worst case, I guess I could pop the factory mic out and throw in an aftermarket one in the same location. Lowclock posted:All but the cheapest and shittiest decks will be able to connect steering wheel control key wires, and all the android ones also seem to be programmable. I'd be willing to bet that any other bluetooth controller that either emulates a keyboard or does AVRCP would work too, but I've never tried with an actual deck, though an ESP32 works on my Android phone just fine. Atoto and Joying have their own specific controllers as well which look pretty decent. It sounds like they're asking for an add-on steering wheel control, not one that can work with controls already built-in. Pioneer used to offer a steering wheel mounted remote. It looks like Axxess makes a universal one, though it's kinda spendy, and only works with aftermarket stereos with a steering wheel control input. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Feb 9, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 03:09
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Yeah the one I linked seems to be wireless, but with its own dedicated receiver that connects to most aftermarket stereos (and gets buried behind the dash). Axxess is generally a solid brand, Crutchfield wouldn't carry them otherwise. No clue on the stuff on Amazon - never really looked at anything that wasn't specific to the brand stereo I had at the time.
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Feb 9, 2023 03:16
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Dunno if this should go here or the stupid questions thread, but I've never had a car with factory aux input that wasn't on the stereo itself. 2008 Lexus ES350, factory stereo (non-navigation). It has an aux input in the center console, and shares an input button with CD (i.e. CD/AUX). I can't seem to get it to go to the aux input, even with something plugged in and actively playing. I've used both the front panel buttons, and the mode button on the steering wheel - neither will get it to aux. The CD/AUX button works if a CD is in it, otherwise it doesn't do anything. I do know the car has an iPod adapter plugged into the back of the stereo (dealer add-on, cable is still in the glove box), but that seems to have taken over the satellite input (it shows iPod disconnected when I hit SAT). From what I've dug up, it looks like the stereo won't allow you to move to the aux input unless it detects something is plugged in. And I'm not an Apple guy, so I don't have anything with that ancient 30 pin Apple connector (so I can't even see if the iPod adapter works). But for all I know, the iPod adapter may have taken over the aux input too? Any ideas before I go tearing into the dash? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Feb 10, 2023 |
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Feb 10, 2023 18:23
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I'm not trying to keep the 30 pin - that's a dealer-added iPod adapter that, I believe, plugs into the satellite receiver plug on the stereo. I just want to get the 3.5mm aux input working until I can get an Android Auto head unit.. The iPod adapter is coming out either way. Lexus STILL sells a dealer-installed 30 pin iPod to head unit adapter for this car, BTW, and for pretty drat cheap ($45 at the local Lexus dealer, used to be something like $250). I suspect that's what's installed in my car, since it was installed at the dealer. And there's no CD changer port - it has an in-dash CD changer. Since iPod adapters work over the satellite plug, if anyone is making anything, I'd think a BT to SAT connection would be out there. But they stopped using this stereo at the end of 2011 - hence why I bought a Bluetooth (aptX HD to be specific) to 3.5mm adapter. The factory stereo has two external inputs - one for an external satellite receiver, one for 3.5mm (with the 3.5mm remotely mounted in the center console). I just want the 3.5mm port working for now. I don't really have any CDs (for that sick 6 disc in dash CD changer), though I do hear what sounds like a CD rolling around under the center console when I take turns. That's bugging the hell out of me, so ultimately everything's coming out anyway. Maybe it'll be a sweet Megadeth CD. I mean.... Lexus - The Pursuit of Perfection demo CD for that cute little 8" sub. Ultimately I think the 3.5mm was either left disconnected when the iPod adapter was added (it looks like it has its own 3 pin plug), or the particular adapter used uses both the satellite and aux input. RIP Paul Walker posted:You can buy 30-pin to Bluetooth adapters that are designed for old iPod docks! That's quite the... uh.. convoluted idea. Yo I heard you liked adapters, so I got you some adapters for your adapters! I guess that'd be the easiest way to get working full-on Bluetooth without taking things apart, but the glove box is messy enough with that long rear end iPod cable.
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Feb 11, 2023 03:05
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Tore into it, unplugged the iPod adapter (which goes between what I think is the 6+6 port and factory harness + head unit - might have been 8+8, I wasn't really paying attention and had to do most of it by feel anyway), and plugged the factory plug into the head unit. Still no aux input. My best guess is either the cable I'm using is bad, or the actual aux port is damaged (there's usually a contact in them that tells the head unit something's plugged in). I already broke one piece of trim ("soft touch" plastic that was super brittle with fake leather wrap  ), though I just kinda winged it instead of doing it right. I'll have to remove the center console to get to the actual aux jack, and that looks like it's probably a pain. I've gotta do a junkyard run this weekend anyway, hopefully I can find a same-generation Camry to tear down and pull parts from (should be the same aux port and roughly the same center console mounting). If I'm lucky I might even find another ES350, but these rarely wind up in the self service yards.Sounds like it's 30 pin to bluetooth time for now - I put everything back the way it was and verified it can see the iPod adapter again. Man this thing is kind of a pain to get to the stereo on; mainly because the center stack vents come out (and not as a full assembly) Flew into a million pieces, I think I spent more time putting them back together than I did on anything else. I want to know how the hell whoever installed this kit got the 30 wire cable to fit tightly through a hole in the glove box. I'm sure there's a plug on the other end of it. It doesn't look like they cut anything, it just fits perfectly. As far as I can tell, I'll have to cut the cable to remove it if/when I remove it. Judging by the paperwork, it's an OEM dealer-added accessory, so it's possible it came with a new glove box insert with the cable already run through the hole. This is one of those cars that's enough of a PITA that I might actually pay a shop. Once you're in there, it's a lot like SO's Matrix (right down to the drat clock, except the clock is powered by the HVAC controls), except there's a shitload more crap in there, the stereo has 5 plugs instead of 2 (also two antenna connectors???), and overall it's just more cramped since this car actually has a real center console. The Matrix mostly has a clipped-together dash with a handful of screws, the Lexus is a ton of screws/bolts with at least 2x as many clips. FWIW, I didn't get a picture of the tag on the cable from the iPod adapter, but it did mention LAN on it, so I assume it ties into the car's bus somehow. I assume that's how it's able to work with the steering wheel controls and essentially tell the stereo "nope, no satellite, we're doing iPod" (when you hit the satellite button, it says SAT - IPOD DISCONNECTED on the display) over one connector. The adapter itself just has 2 plugs - it basically goes between 1 factory plug and the stereo. e: every 30 pin BT adapter I'm finding has "(NOT FOR CARS)" in the description. Huh. e2: found one where someone in the reviews specifically mentions using it in a 2007 Lexus RX350, which, if it's a dealer installed ipod adapter, should be the same one I have. For $12 I'll take a shot. Some other reviews mention it working with Honda and Audi dealer-installed ipod adapters of the same era too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 11, 2023 |
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Feb 11, 2023 07:19
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Eh, already have an ipod cable to Bluetooth adapter on the way. Thanks for digging though. I don't plan to live with this stereo for very long, maybe a couple of months. I think much of the center console has to come out to get the stereo out, whenever I swap it I'll see if I can figure out what the deal was. I'd like to reuse the factory location for the new stereo's aux input (if they even come with one now), so the original jack will very likely be coming out at that point. I'll tear into it at that point. The aux in is factory on this, ipod adapter was a dealer add on. Worst case, I get an old ipod and load it up. 😂 randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Feb 11, 2023 |
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Feb 11, 2023 21:29
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It just inserts itself between a factory plug and the stereo - that's the two plugs. No USB anywhere. Unfortunately it looks like this adapter won't do the trick. The stereo says "hello ipod" when I plug it in, and after about 10 seconds starts flashing "check ipod". Can't get any audio out of it. I did find out I can get to the factory 3.5mm port if I remove the seat heater switch panel. It's connected, I'll need to find the pinout to see which pin gets shorted when a plug is inserted. Fake edit: I just remembered one reviewer said it did the same thing, but they got audio. And the Bluetooth on my phone gets weird sometimes until I restart it. Gonna give that a shot. Pretend this is Big Clive saying "one moment please" Real edit: no dice. Phone shows it's connected, stereo just keeps saying check ipod. I did manage to get the 3.5mm assembly out, going to see if I can find a pinout and see what pin gets shorted to ground when something is plugged in and try shorting that in the plug. That'll at least tell me if it's the 3.5mm socket or something at the stereo end. e2: same part is used in the Prius, and someone actually went through the work of "fixing" (heh) it instead of replacing the jack. Apparently a pretty common issue. https://priuschat.com/threads/aux-audio-input-fault-on-gen-ii-prius-a-cheap-repair-that-works-part-86190-53010.150612/. A replacement one is available for $15 if I botch this, so no biggie if I gently caress it up. E3: aux now works, but only out of one channel. I probably bridged something with my shaky hands while soldering, but at least I know the problem was the jack. Replacement ordered. At least I know it was the jack. Sounds surprisingly good even though only one channel is working, though the BT to 3.5mm adapter I have claimed aptX HD low latency. I'd love to use it for phone calls too (and the phone shows aptx hd when connected) (the car's built in phone bluetooth has horrible lag), but it gets buried in the center console. This is just a stopgap until I replace the stereo anyway.... eventually.. whenever that may be. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Feb 13, 2023 |
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Feb 12, 2023 23:38
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I tried that, also tried hosing it down in contact cleaner once I had it out. Didn't make a difference. It sounds like there's a contact inside the jack that shorts a pin (of course through resistors, so the stereo knows if you're trying to hax the gibson) when something is plugged in, and if the jack is used frequently, it wears out (and if not used often, it sticks). Looking into it, I can see a plate at the end that the tip of the plug probably presses - I assume it warps over time. Looking at the PCB, there's 2 resistors - both are pulled to ground on one end when something is plugged in, only one if nothing is plugged in. The guides I saw stated you need to connect both ends of the resistors together. Easy enough with steady hands, but mine are anything but - and I bridged a connection, so the left channel is likely pulled to ground through the resistors now. There's no CD changer port - it has an in-dash CD changer, and the AM button is shared with SAT (so you cycle through AM before getting to the satellite radio/ipod add on). I think the diagram you pulled up is for the in-dash multimedia receiver, which is the top trim level (DVD video + navigation). Maybe the base model had a single disc player with an optional changer add-on? Mine's a low to middle of the line trim ("Premium Plus"). I have a FSM for a 2007 (mine is an 08), though admittedly haven't dug through it much yet - my copy seems to mainly focus on mechanical and immobilizer stuff. It's stupid, IMO, for the stereo to need to "detect" something plugged in before it'll switch to that input. Just let me switch to it, I'll figure out if there's no signal present. It's just another annoying point of failure. At least now I know I can utilize the factory aux input whenever I get around to putting in an aftermarket stereo, or at least the location - I'll probably just do a surface mount female 3.5mm in the same location. Kinda funny that it throws out a "HELLO IPOD" message with that cheap adapter hooked up though, even if it switched to a flashing "check ipod" fairly quickly. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Feb 13, 2023 |
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Feb 13, 2023 03:20
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In my case it seems to be a satellite tuner port, but essentially does the same thing.  I have no idea if the CD changer works or not - I don't have any CDs anymore - but it does claim the ability to play MP3 CDs, so I might try burning a disc full of MP3s. The one in my mom's 03 Avalon (which probably has the same CD changer mechanism) still worked at over 225k miles. Eventually an Android Auto head unit will be the way I go - adding a backup camera as well. I could have kept the JVC AA unit I had in my old car, but I really didn't like the UI (or the 2V mono subwoofer output). At least this one has a factory aux input. e: new jack is in. I'm pretty shocked how good this stereo sounds when it's not just the radio, though I was playing FLAC from my phone to an aptX HD BT adapter. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 15, 2023 |
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Feb 14, 2023 19:55
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FWIW, at least on Android, there's a few wireless Android Auto adapters on the market that just plug into your (wired) Android Auto HU. Great if you have factory AA or you want to try to add it to a 3rd party AA head unit. Motorola's MA1 does NOT play nice with JVC. I never could figure out why, but even wired AA was a little glitchy with it - the actual AA part worked fine when plugged in, but I'd have to delete and re-add the BT connection every other day or so. Over a MA1 it would randomly disconnect, and I'd still have to delete and re-add the bluetooth part. It worked fantastic on my work van (2021 Ford Transit with Sync 3.4), I had more issues with the van's stereo crashing (but it did that even when my phone was plugged in via cable). There's also AAWireless, which was a bit later getting out of Indiegogo, but supposedly has better support. Motorola's support doesn't really exist aside from telling you to try updating firmware. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Mar 28, 2023 |
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Mar 28, 2023 15:51
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Captain Log posted:the unit itself doesn't have any inputs on the front Unfortunately, this has become the norm. I always run a USB cable to the glove box (for firmware updates, plugging in my phone, etc), and if the head unit puts out at least 1 amp on the USB ports, I'll plug a dashcam into the back to power it (most of the single camera dashcams work fine with a 1 amp supply). I'm going to be replacing the head unit in my current car soon, which brings me to this.... 2008 Lexus ES 350 "Premium Plus" trim, non-navigation, 1 step above the basic stereo - looking to go to an Android Auto unit. Is there an adapter to keep the factory aux input working, or do I have to ditch it? I like that it's hidden in the center console, though it wouldn't be that hard to swap another jack into the same housing (the housing pops right out; I had to replace it when I got the car since the jack was dead). Also, the models with navigation had the HVAC and stereo swapped around (HVAC on bottom, stereo/nav on top - mine is HVAC on top, stereo on bottom) - would it be possible to swap them on mine without it looking like rear end? I know the dash kit for my car keeps the temp buttons in their current location; I'm thinking maybe I can use a dash kit for a nav-equipped car instead? It kinda looks like they pulled a Subaru and just used a 4 or 5 DIN cage for the entire center stack, so I THINK I can probably do it with the proper dash kit. Or maybe this is a question better suited for Crutchfield... Anyone know how the 8 speakers are split up, and what kind of load they wind up as? I'm guessing there's crossovers in the front doors, but the center speaker in the dash is a bit of ???, plus the (very tired) factory sub. This isn't the fancypants Mark Levinson stereo, it's just 1 step above base (only difference is it has very basic bluetooth calling support), so there shouldn't be separate amps for anything. I'm fine with ditching the factory sub if needed, it's seen better days (and I have a 12" + amp sitting in storage anyway). It'd also be nice to use the factory mic if possible; it's integrated into the headliner, and I'm told it's very clear. I've yet to have an aftermarket stereo with a decent mic for phone calls..
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Apr 11, 2023 11:41
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Honestly, it'd only be for passengers (I do a good bit of Uber/Lyft.. for now). Younger passengers often want to play their own music (I usually have an 80s/90s pop rock/alternative playlist going, generally unoffensive to anyone over 25). At the moment, I have a bluetooth to 3.5mm adapter plugged in to said aux input. I'm happy to throw on whatever I can on Youtube Music, but that's the only streaming music app I have on my phone (I pay for youtube premium, so at least there's no ads on it...). Every now and then someone actually asks if I have an aux cable and I have to say no. It's pretty rare, but it does happen. And TBH the main reason I want to keep it working is because.... it's there. I want it to work whenever I sell the car. Short answer is I use it every time I drive, but only because the factory head unit doesn't have streaming music; it supports BT for phone calls, but not streaming. But with paying passengers, it's easier to just hand them a cable instead of letting them pair to my stereo (or in this case, my aptX-HD to 3.5mm adapter).
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Apr 11, 2023 14:59
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