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I adore the look of McIntosh gear. I was about to say "they could easily extort a big price premium out of me for a car stereo" but then I remembered that I'd want Android Auto in any unit I bought today, and that more or less guarantees it's going to be one giant touchscreen. I don't think I'd spend the money just for a pretty McIntosh startup screen that would vanish once I connected my phone.
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Apr 8, 2021 17:49
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:16 |
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I remember seeing those in the 90s and loving the look. Kudos for keeping one on the road.
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Aug 9, 2021 00:24
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You can get wireless connectivity for Android Auto or CarPlay (though it will require a cable to the phone to set it up the first time) but receivers with that feature cost a lot more. It can also be temperamental.
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Aug 9, 2021 19:37
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Lowclock posted:Back in the day I had a Pentium 1 desktop with Windows 98 running Winamp as the shell. I controlled it with a little corded numpad which worked absolutely perfectly. There was also a keyboard but I never really pulled it out. Luckily I was driving an Astro van with plenty of room between the seats for just an actual fuckin 17" CRT. It was the most amazing poo poo and I loved it. Now that everything is so much more powerful and I know how to do some programming and electron wrangling, it's gonna be a ton of fun. I want a way to shoehorn Winamp-as-shell into a Morgan three-wheeler purely as my final and absolute declaration to the world that nobody can force me to make good decisions.
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Feb 15, 2022 17:38
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A couple years back, I put a new head unit in my 2001 Miata. It has a Bose factory sound system with an amp and hideously low impedance speakers, so standard aftermarket fitments all include an attenuator box. I bought it all from Crutchfield, and discovered their pre-made wiring harness didn't give me enough room to put the attenuator in any of the places where it would actually fit. I ran out, bought a spool of wire and some crimp connectors at the nearest place that sold them, and got it working. Unfortunately, something has come loose, and the right channel keeps dropping out on me. I'm assuming the weak point is where I spliced in the extra length of wire at the attenuator. I'm going to pick up that Klein crimper someone recommended up thread. What's the best way to connect the splices and still preserve some flexibility? I ended up shoving the attenuator in a cavity around the back of the double-DIN slot and off to the side, so those wires are going to need to bend a lot. I don't really want to learn to solder just for this.
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Jan 28, 2023 18:31
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Got any other suggestions as to what to look for?
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Jan 28, 2023 21:55
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You can rest assured that I've given the deck near the speaker a good number of diagnostic blows. Since it's the right side that cuts out, I've been unable to beat it the way it may deserve. I gave thought to having someone put in new speakers and bypassing the Bose amp, but I only expect to keep this car another 18 months or so.
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Jan 29, 2023 00:45
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Nocheez posted:This is like the easiest thing to diagnose. Double up on your left channel and run that signal to the right speaker wires. If it fixes it, then your wiring is good. Re-do the splice to the right channel signal, if it goes out again then either you can't splice wires or the deck is bad. a) very good point except b) it is entirely possible I can't splice wires
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Jan 29, 2023 01:16
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It's a little ugly, but you can always run extension cords from the rear USB ports.
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Apr 6, 2023 05:15
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:16 |
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I've never wanted anything more and less at the same time.
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Feb 21, 2024 00:14
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