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Pulling a redneck pickup? Try pulling a 747. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhk3VRtU5Dk
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Dec 31, 2012 13:49
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Shifting at 2k is fine in normal driving, that's actually the recommended shifting point that I was taught for maximum fuel economy (2.5k for gasoline engines). However, you do want to get it higher in the rev range once in a while. If you don't you'll never massage the EGR flap, which engages somewhere between 2.5k and 3k, depending on which car and engine you have. If you don't, it'll soot up and get stuck and you'll need to replace it. It's one of the most common repairs on diesel cars. It's also best for the particulate filter to run the engine through the rev range once in a while.
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Jan 16, 2013 08:33
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Cancelbot posted:Modern TDIs seem to be too drat efficient for their own good - I have the 105bhp 1.6 TDI in my Seat Ibiza and in barely-cold temperatures (1-2 degrees Celsius) using the heater saps enough engine heat for it to go back to fast idle again. Below -1 the car is constantly stuck in fast idle unless you do 60mph+ for a good hour. I had a similar problem with the Panda, although not to nearly the same degree. You should be fine covering 1/2-3/4 of the grill, it's probably mostly the airflow cooling the engine.
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Jan 21, 2013 18:10
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If any of you have yet to drive the misery machine known as the Seat Ibiza Ecomotive (slash Polo Bluemotion slash Fabia Greenline), I have only one piece of advice. Don't. It's got a 3-cylinder 1.2L TDI and extra-high gearing for fuel economony. It is absolutely astonishingly gutless, on level with the Polo 1.9L naturally-aspirated diesel I did brake tests in back when I originally took my license. It's that slow. To make things even worse, it vibrates like a motherfucker, as well. On paper it has 75hp/180nm, but I can tell you that my old 70hp/145nm Panda was so much faster it isn't even funny. On the upside, my 160hp Peugeot felt like a silky-smooth rocket ship in comparison.
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Jan 22, 2013 17:04
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veedubfreak posted:Also, when did Audi stop offering the A4 in a wagon. I want a TDI a4 wagon with AWD and man trans. But this will never happen. Oh yes it will. In Europe 
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Feb 6, 2013 20:48
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Opensourcepirate posted:I'm pretty sure that all Audis have their bodies galvanized. Given the reliability of the old VE engines, rust has been the death of a lot of the TDI's sold in the North America. All cars have been fully galvanized for over a decade now.
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Feb 8, 2013 09:35
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InitialDave posted:My friend is seriously considering buying a 2.5 TDi A4, and I've agreed to help him do the cambelt when he does. Should I just shoot myself? One of my colleagues used to drive a 2.5 TDI A6. He sold it because of the service bills. Replacement of the cambelts was over $2500, as far as I can remember. There may have been other things included in that as well, but you gotta figure that if it costs that much at a garage, it'll be seven shades of hell trying to do it yourself.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:17
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InitialDave posted:As I understood it, they used one, long, belt.  One main timing belt, and a smaller one to drive the injector pump. The main one is the real bastard, though.
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Feb 9, 2013 23:48
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Opensourcepirate posted:Isn't the Golf TDI we get pretty close to a GTI though, aside from the engine? They're both Golfs, so yeah.
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Feb 12, 2013 18:23
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What do you mean by not accelerating downhill? Diesels have more engine braking, is that what you mean? Otherwise, if you're not getting any acceleration from it, it's either broken or you haven't found the accelerator yet. It's a 3-liter twin turbo diesel. It's got some grunt and a whole lot more top-end than single turbo diesels, give it some revs.
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Feb 18, 2013 08:25
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xzzy posted:Hey everybody, sorry to dive bomb your thread out of nowhere, but I'm on the verge of buying a Golf TDI and never having owned a diesel, have a couple questions. Just trying to separate myth from fact on these things. This is the general diesel chat and questions thread, so you've come to the right place!  quote:My commute is fairly short, only about 10 miles. Everyone raves about the economy of diesels, but they always seem to talk about highway usage. What kind of falloff is there for short drives? 10 miles is on the low side, but if it's mostly motorway driving, it'll be OK. If it's mostly city or under-60mph highway driving, I'd say it's too short. It also depends on your climate. Diesels take longer to warm up, especially in cold weather. If you live in Arizona or something, city driving shouldn't pose a problem in that department. The best way to test this is to take one for a test drive that's similar to your commute and see how quickly it warms up. If the coolant temperature isn't at normal operating level when you're about halfway through, it's very likely that the oil will never reach operating temperature, which means it won't be able to provide as much lubrication. This can also lead to excess moisture in the oil, which would usually be boiled off once the oil is nice and hot. quote:Also heard chatter that a diesel "needs" stints on an open highway to properly clean itself out. Is that accurate for modern engines? On most diesels, the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve opens up above 2500rpm or so. If you never rev the engine this high, the EGR valve will eventually soot up and stick closed. This will cause an emissions error and a relatively expensive replacement. By getting on the motorway and going through the rev range once the engine is warmed up, you'll massage the EGR valve and blow any soot out of the engine. A diesel car that's been exclusively city-driven at low revs for a month or so can make quite a smokeshow the first time it gets on the motorway, although not quite as bad now that particulate filters are standard. Going through the rev range and getting everything nice and hot also helps the particulate filter work more efficiently. An exclusively city-driven car risks clogging up the filter because it never reaches the temperature at which regeneration works and the filter can clean itself. This can lead to another expensive replacement. quote:Last, biodiesel. Had a co-worker insist that modern biodiesel blends will eat any rubber it touches. Now my assumption is that new cars will have been built to tolerate higher blends, so I'm calling bullshit on his claims. But I thought I'd bring it up in case anyone here has some insight. quote:In other news, test driving the Golf was a heck of an experience. I've driven small four cylinder cars my whole life and the torque I got out of the Golf put a big stupid grin on my face. It is quite addictive and useful for passing. But with a short commute, I'd seriously look at the gasoline-powered alternatives. The newer turbo offerings will offer much of the same torque benefits, especially if they've got variable valve timing and direct injection as well (such as VWs TFSI engines). They're also cheaper to buy and gasoline is cheaper than diesel (if you're in the US, which I assume you are). I would put together a spreadsheet with your expected annual mileage, fuel costs, rated mileage and purchase for a couple of different cars to find the total cost per year for fuel. Don't forget to add the payments if you're buying on credit, insurance and other recurring costs. Diesels may also be more expensive to service if you're in the US, as there are a lot fewer diesel mechanics who'll work on passenger cars. I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying a diesel, but you should find out how well it fits your needs, and whether you can live with the drawbacks.
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Mar 13, 2013 09:28
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wolrah posted:Don't the DPF-equipped vehicles have a regen cycle that basically runs the engine super rich to raise the EGTs enough to clean the filters without needing any particular driving style? Wasn't that why the 6.7 Powerstrokes could become flamethrowers when originally released? I guess it could be a larger engine only thing, since I've only heard of that on diesel pickups and big rigs (where I know in the trucking thread a few of the drivers have bitched about DPF regen raping their fuel mileage). Yes, they do. That's pretty much what the regen cycle is, but you have to be at operating temperature before it will kick in, and not just coolant temperature. The engine needs to be fully warm, which just doesn't happen on short trips, especially if it's a bit cold out.
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Mar 13, 2013 15:29
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Shifty Pony posted:As long as you semi-regularly get everything up to normal temperatures for a while and give it a workout there shouldn't be any issues with the engine, correct? That's pretty good advice for any engine, diesels just take longer to warm up. Engines are more likely to be killed if you really baby them and keep the revs low than if you give them a good workout on a regular basis.
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Mar 13, 2013 17:10
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I've changed wheels plenty of times with ordinary scissor jacks, but I absolutely refuse to touch VW widowmakers.
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Apr 22, 2013 21:58
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Chips are OK, but a dyno-tested custom ECU reflash is definitely the best option. They're not that much more expensive, and the best places will sell you a handheld ECU flasher that you just plug into the OBD and load whichever preset you want into the car, so you can go back to the standard map whenever you want.
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May 5, 2013 08:18
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VW.com says it's a 140hp 2.0.
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Jun 4, 2013 17:32
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Mooseykins posted:Our big trucks (6.5T+ i think) here in Europe are all limited to 56mph, some bullshit EU law. They used to be able to do 70mph on the motorway like everyone else. Have you ever tried to stop one of those fuckers fully loaded? There's a reason they're limited.
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Aug 21, 2013 13:04
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Giblet Plus! posted:Volvo has a 16L in the us now: Only 500hp and 2800nm? Scania's 16.4L V8 makes 730hp and 3500nm.  You think American truckers are brand-obsessed fanboys? It's nothing compared to the devotion Euro-truckers have for V8 Scanias.
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Aug 22, 2013 09:33
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100k miles or 100k km? First facelift, that's the 115hp one, right? It's a decent enough engine, but it is very agricultural. If it's been serviced regularly, I wouldn't worry about the mileage. It's pre-DPF, so no issues there. Make sure the EGR is functioning, warm up it and give it the beans on the motorway, see if it runs nicely without bogging down or throwing weird errors. Honestly, the 1.9 JTD is probably going to be the most reliable part of that 156. Be wary of electrical issues and water intrusion beneath the carpets.
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Aug 28, 2013 09:23
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Saga posted:100,000 miles and it should be the 115 based on the age of the car and my recollection of the interior (it has the updated steering wheel). 100k is no problem for the engine, but my concern is more when do the turbos typically let go? When you say check the EGR is functioning, presumably the EGR will throw a code if it's not working? Yeah, it'll throw a code if the EGR stops working. As for the life of the turbo, who knows? If fed regularly with good oil, it could last for the entire lifetime of the rest of the car. As long as it doesn't leak oil or make whining noises, it should be OK, just keep up the oil changes and use synthetic. quote:I think they have had at least one weird electrical issue (no, really?) in the last year which I need to quiz them about. They have also reversed it into several solid objects, but I don't care about rust and dents on the body. Also trying to remember if I've seen a wet floor in there when I've visited them. You would hope with paying the Alfa dealer to service it, they would have sorted out a blocked drain or failing window seal or whatever issue causes the seepage. My parents haven't mentioned any drivability issues, which is a good sign. The water intrusion thing is insidious. since it likes to gather underneath the carpeting, where you won't notice it until you remove the carpets and check manually, or the floor rusts through. I would check under the carpet in the footwells, just to be 100% sure. quote:I am used to agricultural as my wife's car has the 90hp PSA 1.9 common rail HDI. I'm more worried the diesel will destroy the handling. I've only driven the 1.8 and 2.0 TS versions, which have great balance (almost as good as the famous Peugeot 406 The 1.9 is heavier and lazier, I don't know how much it affects the handling, though.
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Aug 28, 2013 10:20
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). I can forgive wrong-wheel drive, but only if it handles like a 156, 306, 106 rallye etc. and not like a shitbox Vauxhall.
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Odds are you're not going to window the block or anything, but I bet you're going to need a stronger clutch to handle that 30-40% increase in power.
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Oct 14, 2013 07:37
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fknlo posted:Was out messing around today and test drove a Q5 with the 3.0TDI. God drat I want that engine in an A4. The 245hp 3.0 TDI is an engine option on the A4, so buy one? 
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Jan 27, 2014 23:48
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AlternateAccount posted:So popping the hood on a 2010 Jetta TDI, how much vibration of the engine is normal? I am not expecting a BMW V12, but should there be SOME motion sitting at idle? Not significantly more than a similarly modern 4-cylinder gasoline engine. How bad is it? If it vibrates this much, you may have a busted dual-mass flywheel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-D3xgi1d5gQ
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May 28, 2014 17:11
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 17:31 |
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ThirstyBuck posted:I've considered getting an MB but I had a Golf in the past and really really liked and used the practicality of the hatchback. Get a diesel MB wagon?
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Dec 12, 2014 10:00
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