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I only know things about the suspension, engine, and manual transmissions in those... auto I'm tempted to crap on, but apparently if actually maintained by someone who knows things about dodge autos they can be made to last. Engine: solid, as you noted. That's a cummins Rearend: solid, will last forever with good maintenance, or even poor maintenance. Front diff, if 4x4: solid, that's the last year of the kingpin non vacuum disconnect frontend. Will last forever with maintenance. Front suspension if RWD: I don't know anything about this Basically make sure the transmission has been serviced properly and regularly and I think you should be good to go. e: nothing to see here, move along! kastein fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 19:52
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Yes, I am a dumbass and said 6 valve instead of 12  I meant "not the more-valves one from the later years" aka the 24 valve. (I know the 6bt is not a 2 stroke, so it has to have at least 2 valves per cylinder... I swear)
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May 31, 2013 23:39
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That better be an installed price, from a reputable shop, and I still wouldn't pay it. e: in your F250? That sucks  It's a RWD/4x4 vehicle, I'd drop the tranny, buy the rebuild kit, and learn how to do it myself at that price.
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Jun 20, 2013 20:23
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Holy poo poo! Yeah, that thing will see another 200k easy. There is more rust on parts I put on my truck halfway through the winter than there is anywhere on your truck.
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Jun 28, 2013 15:56
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They are awesome - 309hp, 553 ft-lbs. Here's one dragging a chevy 6.5 duramax bro-truck in a tug of war, in fact: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UFVI_MQPEQ e: I am pretty sure if the bro truck hadn't had a bunch of lift in the back (from the way it handles in the video, I'm guessing lift blocks and no traction bar, or even lift springs and no traction bar) and maybe some weight for traction it MIGHT have won. Good job making your truck useless! kastein fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 06:40
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I like people that do "tug of wars". Usually something happens and ends up with a missing back window. I am not a fan of stupid people in general if I have to actually deal with them but watching them break poo poo is fun.
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Aug 6, 2013 16:46
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InterceptorV8 posted:Oh a pocket diesel V8! One of my friends from Indiana works in that plant and hasn't shut up about it since the news went public. I have to say I'm liking this new trend of going diesel... gently caress you Chevy for your "lets turn a 350 into a diesel by strapping stupid poo poo to it!!!1 " move in the 80s that helped make everyone hate diesels.
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Aug 20, 2013 22:37
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Powershift posted:The biggest we get are 16 liter, 600hp/2050 ft/lb I6s, even our 1 ton pickups are up to 400hp/850ft/lbs  If only I wouldn't have to cut both my frame rails, my entire radiator/grille, and most of my hood off my truck to fit one of those in. I was looking at N14s and was incredibly happy until I found out how goddamn big they are on the outside. Speaking of which... diesel nerds and truckers. Please tell me what the gently caress I can get a 330hp tuned Cummins C8.3 out of, preferably with an SAE bellhousing adapter that fits loving something or other an Eaton Fuller RTX14609B would come out of. I have been trying to find a way to figure out what donor vehicles have that engine and it sure seems goddamn impossible compared to finding the same info for passenger cars and light trucks. And there doesn't seem to be any way to verify what power tune would be on a particular engine, so any chucklefuck can claim theirs is the one you want or whatever and then it shows up and has 250hp instead of 330.
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Aug 21, 2013 00:17
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Sadly most of the urban bus 8.3s I've seen listed are 250hp variants, which are governed at 2200rpm (I need at least 2500), and most school bus ones are the 280 or 285hp variants, which redline at 2500 but people want a loving mint for them. I'm not looking for much power/torque unless I can get it cheap... I need that sweet sweet 2500rpm redline of the 280/285/300 schoolbus, 260/280/285/300 urban bus, and 310/330 firetruck/motorhome/HDT 8.3s. And I'm trying to stay under 2k for the engine, which is looking less and less possible.
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Aug 21, 2013 01:13
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Mooseykins posted:What's needed to raise the limiter? That'd be awesome. Preferably with an SAE #2 bellhousing but any SAE pattern is fine with me at this point. I would rather not get into raising the limiter and retuning the engine without knowing everything about it - basically I'm looking for a complete engine package or front frame cut to rip things off of and throw them in my truck. If I had a full parts catalog of 8.3 stuff that told me which internal parts they used for what horsepower/torque ratings, and what exactly the tune changes, I'd be fine with going that route, but the last thing I want to do is buy a crummy lower power 8.3, tune it up, be happy, then throw a rod through the block 200 miles from home and literally spend a thousand dollars having the thing towed back. I'm so used to having full OEM parts catalogs and make/model/year application data available that trying to figure out anything with this project is just confusing the poo poo out of me. e: maybe I should just show up at the local Cummins sales office an hour before closing on a Friday and pick people's brains and bullshit until I manage to get parts catalogs or the info I want.
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Aug 21, 2013 01:21
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InterceptorV8 posted:You looking for more power or more speed? In a word: yes. Current engine is 175/195hp (depends on who you ask) and 425 foot pounds, and maxes out at 2600rpm. I simply don't have the power to maintain top speed on the highway going up hills without wringing it out, and these engines are NOT known for durability when run at 24-2500+ constantly. So I'm looking for the most powerful engine I can afford, with an SAE #2 clutch housing, that fits in the space I have, and has a redline of at least 2500. I want to upgrade the tranny anyways because right now I don't have OD - 2500 with an OD of .73 and larger tires will actually bump me from a max road speed of 52mph to around a max of 73mph. Still, I can't find a deeper OD than that, already bought tires, and the diff ratios basically can't be changed, so the engine pretty much has to be able to do 2500 unless I try and find a brownie box or something, which is going to make things interesting due to it being 6x6, I'd technically need two of them or some sort of goofy interlock setup. I found out that cat 3208 naturally aspirated motors redline at 2750 and can be bumped to 3250 if needed, which has me thinking, because one of the engines I may be able to get for a reasonable amount of money is a 3208 (iirc) which is in an old enough vehicle that it may well be an NA version. Not much more power than I have right now, though... at least from what I can find for a marine 3208NA. Trying to find solid info for an OTR one seems to be an exercise in futility. Powershift posted:The 480hp 1660ftlb 12 liter in my Mack is within 7 or 8 inches in each dimension of the 5.9 Cummins in my dodge. I've measured it out and it would probably fit. What would be more metal than a 12 liter 1 ton pickup. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 13:31
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Powershift posted:It's an AC 460p. overall it's 51" l by 48" t by 45" wide, but about 8 inches of the width comes from how the turbo is mounted, and probably 6-7 inches of the height is a dip in the oil pan that would go around the front axle of the dodge. You could crank a 5.9 cummins up to similar numers for less than a heavy duty engine + rebuild would cost you, but come on, 12 liters! How wide where it has to go between the frame rails? I forget exactly what I have available but it's somewhere in the 28-32" range.
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Aug 22, 2013 13:15
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Powershift posted:That volvo engine in the mack is called the MP10 and is 605hp and 2800nm, in australia matching the euro 5 emissions standards it's 685hp and 3100nm because it doesn't need a DPF. Scania's 16.4 V8 is only Euro 5 emissions rated, the most powerful euro 6 spec is 585hp/2950nm. Even Euro 6 emissions are less strict on NOx and particulate matter than the US's EPA 2007 emissions regulations. Hmmm... I am rather intrigued. Another thing I need to worry about is steering column and power steering box clearance, all that stuff is strapped onto the truck basically as an afterthought, directly above the driver side frame rail. So clearance on the driver side may be "interesting". Passenger side is easy, I stand on the frame rail next to the engine while reinstalling the turbo, makes it easier to hold it up 
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Aug 23, 2013 14:36
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Sounds like starter to me but it could well be your battery cables or ground cables too.
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Nov 10, 2013 22:30
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My starter is the one thing on my diesel that hasn't exploded yet. I suppose I've just jynxed myself, haven't I. ninja edit: anyone know a place in central mass (or anywhere nearby) that can rebuild injectors for a ~60 year old multifuel? I wouldn't be at all surprised if some of mine are jammed up, one or two were very very difficult to get out of the heads the first time I had it apart, and it's always had a funny miss on a cylinder or two at idle, even before I started freaking out about maybe having a junk rod bearing. The sound could easily be a cylinder not firing right, so I figure I should do the injectors while they're out.
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Nov 12, 2013 02:52
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Yeah, I'm not sure where to even get parts or I'd give it a shot myself. That site looks like he only does gas engine injectors, maybe he just doesn't list diesel services? And yes, I have another 13 months before it's registrable as an antique, so it's relegated to long term project status.
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Nov 12, 2013 03:35
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I don't really want to mail the only set of injectors I have out to Idaho, looking for something local like I said before. Alternatively, if I could find rebuild kits for them I'd give it a shot. TNJMurray has parts kits but after my previous experience buying parts from them I'll let it sit in the yard with no injectors in it at all before I go back to them. Looks like eriks military surplus doesn't have any... got a few more places to try before I give up. e: vvv I don't think they're going to have a starter for a White/Continental LDS-465-1A engine in a 1958 Kaiser Jeep M54A2, but I could be wrong. vvv kastein fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 16:01
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I can think of 3-4 rebuilders in my area, including one that a friend of mine and his dad have had great luck with. Not sure of their name but I can get it in a matter of minutes if anyone needs a good starter/alternator/general electromagnetics rebuilder in central mass.
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Nov 12, 2013 23:56
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double post: Holy poo poo, I just found brand new injectors for my truck for $55 each from a surplus dealer that's very well respected. Whole, new old stock. And unlike TNJMurray (douchebags...) they list two separate part numbers for the LDS-465 and the LD/LDT-465 injectors, which is as I suspected, so it's a good thing I didn't buy from TNJMurray. Think I'm gonna jump on that when I get paid. $330 for a full set of brand new diesel injectors is something I can deal with.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:33
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Ferremit posted:That's a fantastic price! That's only just a little more than the price per injector for my tdi Toyota! The wonders of driving (well, owning...) a 5mpg military surplus shitpile that they made hundreds of thousands of and then surplused out ten years ago and sold the spare parts off at scrapmetal prices
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Nov 17, 2013 06:35
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I would recommend you stay the hell away without a fairly bulletproof warranty, and if you do buy, make sure you romp the hell out of it till the warranty is up so it fails in warranty if it is going to. I would also stay far away from any modified diesel, it probably had a tuner in it and was turned way up by some idiot diesel bro, beaten and put away wet, then had the tuner removed and was traded in at the first sign/worry of trouble. A lift in a diesel fullsize and K&N filter are serious warnings of a stupid previous owner. The 6.0 is not something you want to sign up for without paperwork and preferably physical evidence of its shortcomings having been addressed, especially with telltale marks of previous owner retardation involved. If you are going to buy one, buy a different one.
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Nov 18, 2013 12:22
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 05:45 |
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CommieGIR posted:Steel wire bottle brush. If you do this, do something to make sure the metal bristles that inevitably fall off won't end up inside the engine.
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Jan 11, 2014 00:59
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