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keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
Any of you ever get the dreaded p01550 engine code with your TDI?

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keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

Pull the intake side off the turbo and get a picture of the turbine blades, what model Jetta and year is it?

Its either the wastegate isn't actuating properly or the variable vanes are stuck if you have a VGT turbo.

I've replaced the turbo/wastegate actuator integrated combo unit, intake manifold/egr integrated combo unit, n75, mass air flow sensor, air cleaner/anything having to do with intake, vacuum lines including the one in the ECU, also the turbo inlet pipe. Basically it goes into limp mode going up hill when it's cold out or at 2200-2400 rpm when it reaches 70+ degrees outside. I've set a hard limit of $500 left to throw at it and if it's not fixed, then I'm throwing it to an auction.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
1998 AHU engine.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

You need to get a vacuum pump, pull the exhaust flange and see if the waste gate is opening/jammed open. Other issue could be the intake being jammed up with carbon deposits.

I purchased both the waste gate and intake manifold brand new and installed both last November and the car has only been driven about 500 miles since then for diagnostics.

edit: I'm taking it to the local VW dealer this afternoon and letting them sort it out. My dad failed to tell me that he knows the owner of the place until last night and gave him a call for me.. Figures..

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

Good luck...Dealers are the last place I'd ever go on Earth, connections or not.

Unfortunately, the nearest shop that specifically works on TDI's is 100 miles away, so I gotta take what I can get at this point. In any case, It's do or die time for this car and I'm only going to throw another $400 at it before it goes to auction and I wipe my hands clean of it.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

sharkytm posted:

If you are serious about selling, post it here. I might be interested.

If after another $400 it's not fixed, yes I am serious and I'll throw pix up at that time. Other than the engine throwing this loving infuriating/misleading code that puts it into limp mode, 270k miles and rear cup holder missing the cover, everything else is beautiful. The interior, other than rear cup holder cover, is in cream puff condition and the engine bay still has both the engine cover and plastic bottom pan which are usually the first things you see missing on these. It's never been in any accidents and has been garaged its whole life.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
Aaaand I'm at $250 left to throw at the fucker until I knock it in the head. Supposedly I have a bad gasket on the turbo where the boost pressure control difference is coming from.. I just changed the turbo and gaskets around it 300 miles ago, sooooo I'll see where this one takes me. Probably back hunting for more codes and more money to throw at it..

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
I'll check that out when I get home tonight, though I have taken that pipe off a couple times to clean the intake manifold/EGR and didn't notice anything wrong. Something new could have developed which wouldn't surprise me at this point.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
Back for more. I checked out the pipe coming off the intake manifold and that's perfectly fine. I got the car back, installed the part yesterday and still goes limp. I got quoted 2 labor hours to unplug an air hose, vacuum line, random plug, take 3 bolts out, remove the turbo inlet pipe, remove the rubber gasket, install a new one then put it back together. Basically something that took me 30 minutes at home. But it's still doing the same thing.. So back to dealership to pull more codes with their vag. On the plus side, it took 10 minutes of driving for it to kick this time instead of the usual 30 seconds under the same conditions.. So it looks like its head is slowly but surely being extracted out of its rear end.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
OK, all diagnostics from the dealership show the new turbo I just installed last September is not functioning properly. The company I purchased it from suggests I mityvac the engine for oil viscosity issues since "They've seen this behavior before and mityvac'ing is effective in taking care of the issue as suggested to them by VW." However, VW however states that they suggest customers never do this. Which one of the two should I listen to at this point? I'm leaning towards what the VW dealership is stating since they are the dealer. Please clarify for me.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

At this point, I'd suspect the turbo is faulty, either overboosting or underboosting. Some photos of the intake and exhaust side turbines would help us determine that, also, DO try mityvac'ing the wastegate with the exhaust downpipe off and see if it moves.

Well, yeah, mityvac'ing the wastegate is no big trick, dude was talking about mityvac'ing the oil out of the engine because "who knows what intervals the owner is changing the fluid at, because we only experience a 3% aftermarket turbo failure out of the box." Yeah, every 3k miles since I've had it when it had 120k miles and no sludging issues. In parts world you can usually multiply failure rates by 5, so I'm assuming I just got a crap turbo. I mityvac'ed the wastegate last night and it budges but that's it, it doesn't move the 1/2"-1" like it's supposed to. Not to mention the measuring blocks for the turbo were way off by the VAG unit VW hooked up.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

trouser chili posted:

Dude, r12 is cheaper than 134a anymore.

R12 is liquid gold in these parts. You can get a 30lb cylinder of R12 for around $500 at cheapest vs around $150 for R134a. Also, waiting for 134a to be deemed "toxic" since the DuPont patent is about to run up a.k.a. the same thing that happened to R12 in the mid 90's. Oh, what's that? There's already a new DuPont patent on HFO-1234yf refrigerant because DuPont is now rumbling that R134a is now toxic? It's par for the course. DuPont, you so craaaaazy.. I can't wait for another 15 years to go by and then HFO-1234yf is going to be deemed toxic so DuPont can throw out another monopolizing vehicle refrigerant patent.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
My 98 Jetta TDI now operates exclusively in limp mode with a trouble code of p01550, I've taken it to 2 different VW dealers and 3 independent VW mechanics none of which can figure out what's wrong it. In a weird way, I'm OK with it since my commute is 45 miles of country road anyway and I only need a top speed of 65 which it'll get to in 1 minute 33 seconds. It currently does 0-60 in 72 seconds. Also, just accepting the fact it's in perma-limp I at least expect it to just drive like it does rather than it cutting out and cycling the key randomly in a 10-30 minute time frame.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
I've already tried going that route too, a local guy in the TDI community let me swap parts off his to see where the failure point was. No dice.. :(

Here's a list of everything I've replaced: vacuum lines including one in ECU, N75, turbo, turbo inlet pipe, maf sensor, intake manifold/EGR (AHU EGR is built in to intake manifold). Everything listed there is also what I swapped out off the other AHU including the ECU, exhaust gas recirc valve, plastic pipes, intake hoses, basically everything that bolts to the block. Nothing mechanical or vacuum related has taken care of the issue, I have a feeling I have an electrical short at this point. It is what it is. Sluggish as poo poo, but it still gets mid-40's mpg.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

Maybe its time to consider converting to an mTDI injection pump, turns the engine almost purely mechanical and entirely eliminates the ECU.

The only issue I see with that is I live in CA and if the diesel is a '98 or newer, it's subject to smog check.

Fart Pipe posted:

Maybe check the case pressure relief valve on the pump. Its free and can't hurt.

I'll check that out, though I don't see how that would be related to a charge pressure control difference trouble code. All vag-com units point to turbo, I've replaced the stock with a new and a known working one as well with no difference both times.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

If timed correctly, it should pass emissions, and you can disconnected the ECU so the check engine light will no longer function.

The issue is they don't actually check emissions, they just plug into the OBD2 port to see if the CEL is on, do a visual and done.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

CommieGIR posted:

gently caress.

My thoughts exactly. CA is the most vehicle unfriendly state to live in and they're really assholish about it to boot. Whereas other states have police sobriety checkpoints, we have those as well as smog inspection checkpoints. You can't make that poo poo up: http://www.mercurynews.com/ci_23219778/surprise-bay-area-drivers-have-cars-examined-at

Fortunately this vehicle just passed smog last may because it wasn't in perma-limp mode so I just erased all pending codes, took it and it passed. My job for the next year and a half is to drive the car into the ground until it dies or I part it out after buying another commute box.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

kastein posted:

My starter is the one thing on my diesel that hasn't exploded yet.

If it ever does, O'reilly has lifetime warranty starters. I've made good on that a couple times with my TDI.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

Motronic posted:

The fact that you've had to "make good on it" a couple of times is the whole problem. They are absolute poo poo rebuilds, just like their alternators.

The fact that I've had to make good on it in less intervals than the actual Bosch part speaks volumes of the factory parts quality. Original starter lasted 2 years, got replaced by VW warranty, it lasted another 2 years, I got the vehicle when it was 3 years old. I replaced the starter with an o'reilly starter after it was 4 years old, I just recently replaced it 4-5 months ago because the one I purchased died so the o'reilly part lasted 10 years whereas the Bosch poo poo lasted 2 years a pop. I just assumed they made faulty starters for the 98 AHU engine.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
I purchased one a little over 10 years ago, I've replaced it once which was 4-5 months ago. I've not had any more problems. I didn't intend for my paragraph to be hard to follow. Maybe this timeline will help. 1998: Brand new. 2000: replaced starter under warranty from VW, 2002: replaced starter this time with an o'reilly part since VW has the worlds shittiest manufacturer warranty, 2013: o'reilly starter failed, they gave me another one free under lifetime warranty. 2013-current No problems. Does the timeline help?

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
A friend has informed me that one of his friends 98 jetta TDI is totaled out from a hit to the rear and he is selling his TDI in its entirety for $700. It looks like my TDI is about to have a heart and lung transplant. The donor only has 150k on it. You have to let the cat catch the yarn occasionally otherwise it loses interest.. The back country commute mobile will live to see at least 1 more smog check! :)

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
Sell it and let it become some else's problem. It's a VW and it's just the beginning of odd poo poo that's going to go wrong if it hasn't already started accumulating.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
I bought another car, so I'm ditching my Jetta TDI on Craigslist. gently caress the P01550 trouble code, gently caress it in its sorry undocumented 45 possible causes rear end.

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keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
Honestly, it's VW and they have the shittiest warranty/customer support in the business, my inclination is to say no.

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