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For a '10 jetta Tdi running mostly shorter trips and B5 fuel is a 5k mile oil change interval a good idea? That would work out to be about every six months. I have heard that the biodiesel will tend to cause more oil contamination. Does anybody else with cars get the occasional person come up and warn them thy are filling up with diesel? I don't get it in the city but when I stop out in the small rural towns it is about a 50/50 chance someone will comment.
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Dec 11, 2012 19:04
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Wolfsbane posted:Diesels aren't very efficient when you stop and start them a lot, which tends to be the way a hybrid engine runs. That used to be true but really is not the case for modern common rail diesels. Volkswagen already has models under the Bluemotion badging that includes automatic engine cutoff at stop with TDI engines. I imagine that the cost, market research, and the ability to make gas engines significantly lighter would be the real reasons for the lack of diesel hybrids. Also would the cvt systems be able to deal with the torque of a diesel engine? Perhaps a Chevy Volt configuration would be more ideal.
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Dec 12, 2012 22:10
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Friar Zucchini posted:Does the chicken tax even apply to anything at all these days? Non-passenger light-trucks only. Nobody imports them because of how much it would cost so you have assembly plants in mexico or some silly workarounds such as Ford importing Transits with rear seats, seatbelts, and windows then shredding those parts after they offload them to convert then into cargo vans. I do wish there were actual choices in the US for new small trucks, which there are not due partially to the chicken tax and partially because large trucks are too profitable.
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Dec 13, 2012 03:50
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The little Yanmar diesels are really impressive. My parents have a 1984 John Deere 650 with a 0.9L 2-cylinder Yanmar diesel and that thing is a tank. It easily has the same number of hours of farm work on it and the only major part it has needed was a new water pump. With 14.5 PTO horsepower it runs a 48" tiller, 48" bushhog, and 72" grooming mower just fine. More mowers need a diesel instead of the air cooled B&S power that seems to be nearly ubiquitous until you get into professional stuff. I mean you can still get it in a JD X740 but you are looking at $13k for one of those with a desk.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:47
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With the lack of a throttle valve and associated vacuum pumping drag is there really any point in downshifting for engine braking in everyday driving with a TDI? I still have the habit from driving a Jeep 4.0 in hilly and mountainous areas. On the plus side I'm always in an appropriate gear for accelerating and it cuts engine lag, but on the other hand it can't be great for the wear items in the drivetrain such as the syncros and clutch. I know for some reason engine braking is a touchy subject in general, but I'm just wondering if for the new year I should try to change habits and just let the engine wind down in whatever gear I'm driving in, put in the clutch, and use the brakes from there.
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Jan 1, 2013 18:24
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InitialDave posted:Generally, a diesel will produce at least as much engine braking as the equivalent-sized petrol engine, usually more. fknlo posted:My TDI doesn't seem all that different to my old SVT Focus in regards to engine braking. You know... I think you are all right. There is all this nonsense online saying about how diesels don't make effective engine brakes because of how they don't have to do any work pulling vacuum against a throttle plate. Logically it made sense that the air compressed would just spring back out and all you would be left with was mechanical friction as the drag force, but it always felt wrong in practice. For example when driving my father's Toyata 2.4L 22-R powered pickup it has nowhere near the engine braking of my TDI (even though that is nowhere near a fair comparison). Perhaps it is one of those "in a perfect engine" things where in real life you have some vacuum from the air cleaner and intercooler, exhaust backpressure from the turbo and muffler, blow-by in the cylinders, and all sorts of other things which likely ad up to give better braking than would be expected. Maybe people see the extra engine brakes on trucks and think that they somehow are a requirement for any engine braking and not just an ingenious way of getting a bit extra braking power to slow the tons of weight following behind. I should just drive like I want to and not worry about it until I have to make a boat payment for my mechanic when the synchros wear out.
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Jan 3, 2013 02:00
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The DPF also makes for one hell of variation in braking power if you are going down a grade when it decides to do a regen. I noticed this after taking the same route a few times through the mountains when I traveled for work. For example down I-26 as it exits the Appalachians sometimes 4th gear would hold me at the speed limit with no braking but sometimes 4th and regular braking was required. As I got more used to the engine I could pick up when it was doing a regen (higher idle, rougher running, slight odor) and it matched up perfectly for those times that I had to get on the brakes.
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Jan 3, 2013 05:16
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CommieGIR posted:Many people I've met who just bought their first TDI tend to stall them more often from standstill because they either give too much clutch expect it to just grab like a gasser, or don't give enough gas. I disagree with this a bit. Going from a diesel to a gas manual will leave you stalling it from stop because you are not used to revving the engine but instead letting the low end torque get the vehicle rolling quickly and easily without having to rev much. I don't think that is necessarily a bad thing because what I've been told that the key to long clutch life is to keep starting rpms as low as possible while keeping the clutch engagement quick and fluid, or "Time partially engaged x RPM difference = Clutch wear". Once you get the hang of how the engine responds it is entirely possible to smoothly start a TDI from a stop without pushing the tachometer past 1200-1500 and without lugging the engine thanks to the torque-y engine and low gearing of first gear. Most people I've seen who try to drive the TDI at first stall it a bit until they figure out the throttle response of the TDI and that it means once RPMs dip to a certain point there is no saving it. If you hit 600 RPM the engine is going to stall even if you give it some more fuel and disengage the clutch all the way.
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Jan 4, 2013 06:00
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Giblet Plus! posted:You mean you don't do this driving a gas car? Light throttle, clutch entirely out by 1200-1400 rpm, then smoothly add on throttle is how I drive my gas econobox. I originally was going to note that you can easily get a TDI going without touching the fuel pedal at all without lugging, with just a slightly extended clutch release. The only other vehicle I've run into that would let you do it to anywhere near the same degree is a Jeep TJ with the legendary 4.0. I decided against saying it because really that isn't the best for the clutch. So instead like you point out I basically said "if you to things the way you are supposed to, it works!  "
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Jan 12, 2013 07:26
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Going with a sedan over the wagon is my only regret on my car. Every now and then I think about rectifying that but then I really do like the 2010 and the trunk really is giant enough to do everything that I need it to do, only I have to take both wheels off my bike to put it into the trunk.
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Jan 14, 2013 04:53
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So what I'm hearing is I need to sell my 2010 Jetta TDI and upgrade to a 2013 Sportwagon TDI...  More realistic: pick up a dirt cheap beater truck, which are plentiful in Texas. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 14, 2013 |
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Jan 14, 2013 19:20
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I'm just saying it is really hard to justify a wagon when I can pick up a late 80's or early 90's F-150 with the 300 Inline-6 and manual transmission for about two grand, in a state where there is no such thing as road salt. Sure they drink gas but for occasional hauling trips it isn't a bad deal. Or find a late 90s ranger with a dead or dying cologne v6 and do a Cummins 4bt diesel swap... Or as you say just butter up a truck-driving friend with promises of beer and BBQ.
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Jan 14, 2013 23:08
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veedubfreak posted:This is pretty much how I drive mine. But it does get an italian tuneup every few days just because. To complete the thought... Just because the absurd flat torque curve starting at 2k rpm makes launching yourself up the freeway onramp in third gear so much fun to do from time to time.
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Jan 16, 2013 16:19
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I finally got around to hooking up and configuring the scangauge that I have to read the engine sensors from the 2010 TDI (the codes are different from the 2006-2009 and the 2011+ for God knows why). Still no intake manifold pressure but at least it can show coolant temperature and exhaust gas temperature. I have a few questions about EGT readings. The sensor that I am reading is the turbo inlet temperature. That is the most useful one, correct? You can see it rise rapidly under load, drop like a rock when decelerating, and shoot up and stay high during a regeneration cycle. In the interest of keeping the turbocharger happy, what is a good temperature to aim for before cutting the engine? With the way that I drive it only takes five seconds or so of idle to drop to 360F when I park. Is that good enough? I suppose if I were whipping the engine for a bit that it would take longer to settle back down as all the internals would have to also shed the heat build up. sharkytm, a random stranger will quickly be your friend if you buy them a few beef ribs from the right spot.
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Jan 18, 2013 05:54
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TWBalls posted:Hmm... Is there something wrong with the new Jettas? I sure hope not, 'cause I just bought a 2013 Jetta TDI in October. I love it so far, although I already have to replace my windshield and maybe have my hood re-painted (scratched the clearcoat, though I'm not sure if it scratched down to the metal) since a rock fell out of the back of a big-rig (Shitload of road contruction on CA-132). They are not the same car really, particularly the interior. I have had people get into my 2010 and say "Wait, this is a Volkswagen?!" and then remark about how it feels like a more expensive car. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the new Jetta; I have heard great things about them and they sell like hotcakes. I also have heard them called the VW Corolla by some people. Mechanic question: as long as a mechanic has VW experience they should be all good to work with the TDI correct? There are a number of dedicated diesel techs around but I think that they primarily work with truck engines a I don't know if they would be used to VWs um, unique, way of cramming poo poo in awful locations.
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Feb 15, 2013 15:39
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primitive posted:The reason is because on the A4 body style the AT is practically a wear item. Service costs and the fact that it can take an extra second or so to shift if you shift in a manner it isn't expecting. Those really are the only complaints I've read about it, short of cases of catastrophic failure. When I test drove one you had to kinda work at it to get the shift delay to happen (slowly accelerating in 3rd so the trans is expecting the 3rd->4th shift, then downshifting to 2nd instead) and I imagine you would get used to how to let it know what gear you want next very quickly. I went with the MT because I missed driving one and all the DSG models in the area were loaded with the pricey navigation system, but the DSG was worlds better than the mushy thing which was in the Civic I was upgrading from and I think that I would have been perfectly happy with it. fknlo posted:I think we averaged about 77mph for the whole trip. I wonder how bad the mpg would have been if the rack attachment hadn't flown off? We got like 27mpg on the first tank with it up there for most of that tank. Winds were never really favorable either way either. Putting on my roof rack with a bike on it will drop me from 45-50mpg to 35-40 or less, but I'm generally not a fast driver. I imagine the effect gets greater with more stuff and as you speed up.
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Feb 19, 2013 01:36
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My father just bought a 2012 F-350 and was investigating selling his 2001 F-250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. Every place he went to when looking at new trucks kept going  "Please tell me you are trading the F250 in because I can sell it instantly".Now he's barking the tires on the new truck occasionally because he's not used to how quickly it spools up. At least that is his excuse 
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Mar 9, 2013 04:46
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Motronic posted:Yeah, don't trade a 7.3 in. They are worth a premium private party, as it's the last good motor one could get in a Ford pickup. Oh he didn't trade it in. It was just funny that everyone was begging him to. Even at 250k miles and scratched up paint from being used in and out of the woods a 4x4 Lariat supercrew with gooseneck and associated braking equipment fetches quite a nice price when it has been well maintained.
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Mar 9, 2013 17:44
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I only heard the EPA were stopping the manufacturers of the "Only to be used for closed racing courses " DPF deletion kits and tuning systems from selling such kits. They got a $500k settlement from one of the manufacturers and the second-hand market prices have skyrocketed. I would be very shocked if they went after individual owners, but I wouldn't be surprised if they nailed a few shops which installed the kits to the wall as examples.
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Mar 9, 2013 21:27
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Billy Tully posted:I hate you. Do not risk the wrath of the chosen one! The EZ Out is a sign!
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Mar 11, 2013 00:47
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On the TDI you can tell when it is regenning: the idle will be raised a bit, a bit rougher, and if you are at a stop you can normally smell it a little bit. While the engine controls are able to deal with a shutdown in the middle of a regen and will just regen again (if needed) next time it gets up to temperature, shutting down during a regen cycle means you are shutting down the engine with a 1300-1400F EGT. That isn't good for the turbo bearing or the oil in the turbo if you do it regularly. If I notice a regen while I'm out (I have a scangauge which reads EGT) I will normally just rearrange my errands so that it can complete before I need to park. It only takes a few minutes.
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Mar 13, 2013 16:05
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As long as you semi-regularly get everything up to normal temperatures for a while and give it a workout there shouldn't be any issues with the engine, correct?
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Mar 13, 2013 17:05
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CommieGIR posted:Pretty much. Every engine is equipped with coolant glow plugs to help the engine get up to nominal operating temps, compared to the older VW diesel (pre 1997) which you were pretty much depending on the engine to get you up to temperature which often didn't happen in Winter. OK whew. I take a fairly short drive nearly every morning to get breakfast, eat, then come back. But on the weekend I certainly hoon around at times because seriously how can you resist with the TDI? Fuels should be coming off winter blends too, which will give a nice bump in mileage. It turns out my father has magnificent timing. He bought the F-350 and not a few days later the transmission in his old F-250 is starting to not want to engage in 1st when cold. I suppose after 130k miles of hard work towing equipment and agricultural supplies it may be due for another rebuild. I wonder if he is going to get it done before selling it or if he's just going to let people know it slips when cold from time to time and let them worry about it.
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Mar 13, 2013 17:27
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TWBalls posted:This is probably a stupid question, but for someone that's not very car literate is this something that can be monitored using one of those bluetooth OBDII adapters (More specifically the PLX Kiwi & Torq [android app])? I'm definitely loving the hell out of this car and don't want to gently caress anything up by shutting it down when it's regenning. Like a champ: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=376967&highlight=torque I considered that as a setup because it is much more slick than the scangauge but I already had the scangauge.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:00
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The Big Jesus posted:How often do you guys have to get your DPFs cleaned out? Is it considered standard maintenance? As far as I know under normal conditions they don't need to be replaced unless something unexpected and bad happens. VW claims the service interval is to check the amount of ash present in it and 120k miles then check every 20k. During normal driving when the restriction and backpressure gets high the engine automatically adds extra fuel to the exhaust stream by injecting during the exhaust stroke which gets the DPF hot and burns off any soot, but this leaves a very minute amount of ash behind which eventually kills the filter. I do wonder if someone will figure out how to just vacuum the thing out.
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Mar 14, 2013 01:04
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The Big Jesus posted:Right, I know how they work. Really it just burns the particulates down into smaller particulates, but like any filter it has to be cleaned out every now and then. I'm an engineer for a diesel engine company but almost all of our stuff is off-road so I was just wondering what general mileage one gets out of it before servicing. Sorry, just got done explaining it to my father so I was in  mode.~120k check, but people on TDI forums are tracking their ash accumulations using VAGCOM and are actually estimating nearly 250k miles before it hits the 175mL upper spec. The VW part is a sealed unit so as far as people know it cannot be serviced and instead has to be replaced, besides for some franky scary pressure-cleaning systems made by a third party. Edit: for off-road diesels does the DPF system help reduce the need for a spark arrestor? Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 14, 2013 |
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Mar 14, 2013 01:50
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A bit of thread necromancy here, but is there anything I should know about a '01 F-250 4x4 with the 7.3? My father is offering me one hell of a deal on his old truck because a) family and b) it is 100% depreciated and he has a thing about paying taxes on stuff even if it means taking in less money in the first place. More truck than I would ever need but hey at least I would get instant Texas cred.
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Apr 7, 2013 16:24
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Motronic posted:Things you should know are the obvious....make sure it starts and run properly (duh, but I'm talking hard cold starts), make sure it doesn't smoke too much on acceleration, make sure the power steering works. These use a hydraulically boosted power steering and brake assist and it's shared. When it starts going bad you get no brake assist when you are turning. Or you can't turn when you hit the brakes. I've seen it go both ways. It's.....disturbing. But cheap enough to fix. One owner (my father), 100% maintenance kept up on, only driven in SC, front wheel bearings recently replaced. It runs like a champ and he really only decided to buy the new truck because he had extra money in his business and needed a good new capital sink. The only worrying bit is that the transmission may be due for a rebuild and has a hesitation to engage first when it is cold cold. There is 260k miles on the truck and I think about 130k on the transmission including hauling heavy farm equipment. A friend suggested I get it, sell my '10 Jetta TDI, get a Smart, and rig up a hydraulic ramp arrangement and dub it The Mothership. ultimateforce would it work if I just rebadged the Jetta a golf and you call it the special edition?
Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 17:03
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Motronic posted:If you aren't hauling heavy poo poo with it the next transmission it gets can be it's last. If you were still hauling heavy stuff I'd suggest a better replacement, as there are a few aftermarket builders who make VERY nice built up trans for these things. A local fire department killes two stock trannies inside of 4 years/10k miles on a field truck (overloaded, being driven through the mud all the time, generally "abused" but for all the right reasons: that's it's job) and put in an upgraded 4R100 and hasn't had another problem to this day. It has an upgraded transmission in it, that's how it lasts 100k+ when towing 10k+ lbs of tractor, bulldozer, and/or agricultural chemical into and around the woods on dirt, mud, and sand. Like you said, "abused" but for all the right reasons. There are tons of top-notch diesel and truck shops around the area so I'm not too worried about finding someone to give it a rebuild. He's going to take it by the local diesel shop and have them take a look at it. I think I'm going to take him up on the offer, it even includes a camper shell! Now just to get it out here, it seems like a need to plan a visit to the folks. My friends bought a '09 Golf TDI used (2-door) and were worried they overpaid until when they were walking out someone else walked in and said they wanted to buy it sight-unseen and had to be turned away. It had been on the dealer website for a matter of hours.
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Apr 7, 2013 18:10
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Well I went ahead and told him I want it. I was wrong on the transmission: it is just shifting a little hard, no hesitation. The vacuum actuation of the front auto-locking hubs is being a pain as well but meh, I'm not planning on needing 4x4 and the manual lock still works. It is at an oil change and only burned about a quart. $8k for a '01 F250 7.3L Lariat 4x4 , on the condition that I not re-sell it. Considering I was looking around for a Ranger or F150 for only a bit less I consider it one loving hell of a deal and I plan on keeping it forever.
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Apr 8, 2013 00:33
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Used Sunlight sales posted:Anything that spends any time hooked to a trailer around here is a diesel without much exception. When all the silly horse people are around, those guys have some gas trucks. I was going to say I've seen some gas trucks around where my parents live pulling horse trailers but I just wrote it off as horse people being horse people so I didn't think it was worth mentioning. I suppose with how much a good polo pony goes for gas isn't a concern?
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Apr 11, 2013 04:54
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Congratulations! Now the search begins for stations around town with diesel pumps that have card readers and are in convenient locations.
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Apr 20, 2013 03:50
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Look at the little arrow beside the fuel pump symbol. In nearly all modern cars it points to the side with the cap Dattserberg posted:Fortunately for me, I live in small rural town so diesel is pretty easy to come by because of the farmers and people with trucks. Get ready to be warned by people that you are filling up with diesel. Little rural towns are always where I have someone come jogging over or wave at me to let me know I'm going to mess up my car, in a friendly way of course. It normally makes for a nice chat and I've had some drat good lunches based off asking them where to pick up a meal.
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Apr 20, 2013 16:55
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If there are I haven't found them in three years. I would suggest acquainting yourself with the thing that VW calls a jack: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2NzTeGXlqw
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Apr 21, 2013 18:47
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Yes. I have a harbor freight bottle jack next to mine because I don't trust it. My '10 Tdi is coming to the end of the warranty period and I was wondering if having a modest ecu tune performed is worth it.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:45
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veedubfreak posted:APR has great tunes for gassers. If possible go with Malone, also Revo has a decent tune for the TDI. Don't expect a lot though, the emissions equipment on the car strangles it more than the tune. Also, if you do tune and have DSG you'll want to get a tune for that also. Meh, in that case I don't think I'll bother with it. I'll have the 7.3 (which is already tuned) to gently caress around with if I want silly power.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:05
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The Third Man posted:I brought it up in this thread months ago, but I'm at critical mass to get a car for my wife and I'm revisiting TDIs since her priority is longevity, but I'm concerned about the maintenance of Jetta/Golf compared to a lower mileage Camry or Honda at a similar price. Would you consider a well-maintained TDI a better long-term "investment" than an econobox? I obviously will suggest that you get a TDI but I think that the most important thing is that the driver enjoy the vehicle. So take her test driving and let her choose. I don't think that you can really go "wrong" with any of the cars you have listed.
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May 2, 2013 12:32
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Lookit what I got...   
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Jun 4, 2013 02:19
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Yeah those are getting tossed. There are a few small things "wrong" but nothing out of the ordinary on a used 7.3L F-250: weak power steering pump (a flush should help if it bothers me), a vacuum leak in the control system for the front auto-locking hubs that needs tracing, the tailgate isn't lockable (this is the third tailgate on it), and the truck cap door is missing a seal and doesn't latch properly on one side (I'm likely not going to use it much at all). But hey a price I couldn't refuse and I know my father got every maintenance done on time.
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Jun 4, 2013 02:58
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Well I found out another system that doesn't work on the truck: the parking brake engagement switch or sensor. The pedal didn't release all the way (guess I didn't pull the handle good) and I had no idea. Transmission temperature and slip sensor and limp mode works though!  I am letting it cool off and hopefully the transmission is not permanently damaged. It runs full synthetic and was rebuilt for heavy towing... 115k miles ago. Yeah not a great day.
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Jun 4, 2013 16:57
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