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More anecdotal input, but I've known a ton (8? 10?) of climbers to climb with broken or otherwise injured feet over the years and all of them have been just fine. Climb top rope only (so no violent falls) and a few grades below your actual grade such that the climbs feel easy. Only use one foot, and just use the busted one to flag. It'll make you go through sections in totally weird ways, and generally result in more of an upper body workout than you'd normally get.
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Nov 13, 2023 22:43
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Also anecdotal and not related to foot injuries, but one time my friend was going easy on a semi hurt shoulder and climbing one armed, not using her other arm except for balance, so we all climbed one armed in solidarity and it was a pretty fun challenge. We even did a little lead too, it was an easy stemmy route so it was possible to clip with your good hand with no hands on the wall (often involving the use of a head or shoulder to stabilize)... it was silly and very fun
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Nov 13, 2023 22:51
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I've seen someone even boulder with their leg in a cast. She was only climbing V2's and downclimbing of course, but yea I do think it can be done safely. e^ one armed climbing is also fun, I've been there with the shoulder injuries 
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Nov 13, 2023 22:52
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dex_sda posted:Counter-counterpoint: What's too hard for Tommy and what's too hard for Joe Schmoe are drastically different things Countercountercounterpoint: If Joe Schmoe wants to ever improve and become an athlete a'la Caldwell he needs to get off his couch and start campusing that Moon Board. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Nov 14, 2023 |
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Nov 14, 2023 04:21
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Does anyone know of any belay glasses that have a 90 degree viewing angle? Everything on the market seems to be 60 degrees or so. I want to be able to see directly above me while looking straight ahead, basically.
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Nov 14, 2023 18:33
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https://vimeo.com/882716301 Apparently some people did a 67-pitch traverse down in the Gunks recently. Fun short film about it.
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Nov 17, 2023 16:31
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Sab669 posted:https://vimeo.com/882716301 The shots of the hikers casually walking by below lol
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Nov 17, 2023 21:56
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Whole video is pretty comedic. I like dramatically cutting the cargo bag and it falls like 15 feet.
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Nov 17, 2023 22:17
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Baddog posted:Bone spur? No pain at all though huh. Finally had an appointment with my Primary a few weeks ago who referred me to an Ortho and had some x-rays done today. Yep. Bone spurs and early signs of arthritis. Cool 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 20, 2023 |
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Nov 20, 2023 18:31
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Sab669 posted:Finally had an appointment with my Primary a few weeks ago who referred me to an Ortho and had some x-rays done today. Yep. Bone spurs and early signs of arthritis. Cool On the plus side you don’t have to worry about the draft!
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Nov 21, 2023 00:20
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armorer posted:More anecdotal input, but I've known a ton (8? 10?) of climbers to climb with broken or otherwise injured feet over the years and all of them have been just fine. Climb top rope only (so no violent falls) and a few grades below your actual grade such that the climbs feel easy. Only use one foot, and just use the busted one to flag. It'll make you go through sections in totally weird ways, and generally result in more of an upper body workout than you'd normally get. ive seen a lot of ppl climb with a cast on but im still the only person i know who bouldered with a broken rib. if you wanna experience a lot of adrenaline (and pain) thats a good way to do it
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Dec 13, 2023 23:18
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Verviticus posted:ive seen a lot of ppl climb with a cast on but im still the only person i know who bouldered with a broken rib. if you wanna experience a lot of adrenaline (and pain) thats a good way to do it Funny enough, I've done that too. I wouldn't recommend it though.
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Dec 13, 2023 23:21
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I finally am back to climbing after doing God knows what for the past 5 months or something. It turns out that not climbing for 5 months means you have zero endurance and can't do poo poo.
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Dec 14, 2023 00:17
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It comes back quickly, but yea it sucks going through that phase
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Dec 14, 2023 00:23
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For a while after my 2nd kid was born I could only climb about once or twice a month, which meant I was constantly in "lost all my endurance" mode. For the past 2 months or so I've been able to climb 1-3 times a week and I finally feel like I'm back to 80% of where I was 
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Dec 14, 2023 00:31
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About 2-3 weeks ago I finally felt like I was not climbing like total poo poo for the first time in months and then I got a chest infection which I'm still recovering from which will segue nicely into eating a bunch of unhealthy poo poo at Christmas while the weather gets colder 
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Dec 14, 2023 00:58
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Yeaa I did a good job this summer of losing last winter's fat... But I've already put most of it back on since November. This time of year sucks for so many reasons, and also I'm too much of a wimp to continue riding my bike in these temperatures / the dark so I lose out that exercise
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Dec 14, 2023 01:05
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armorer posted:Funny enough, I've done that too. I wouldn't recommend it though. i have a pretty high tolerance to pain generally and it was a kind of novel experience. it also felt really good to get a climb, that i know would've challenged me when i was healthy, while having a broken rib. its also sort of a odd story and i like to see people's reactions (my other broken bone was boring)
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Dec 17, 2023 09:34
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Sab669 posted:I'm too much of a wimp to continue riding my bike in these temperatures / the dark so I lose out that exercise
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Dec 18, 2023 15:54
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Finished building my home wall on Christmas, just waiting on crash pads and it'll be strictly better than climbing at my current gym. We originally wanted an adjustable angle, but ended up going with a fixed 45 degrees so we could have a 12' high wall. Warming up is a little rough, but realistically we'd almost never climb less than 40 degrees so an adjustable angle wouldn't add much. Right now the plastic holds are super rough on the skin and I dry fire off all the slippery wood holds, so if anybody lives near Yonkers and wants to help breaking in a TB2 PM me. Some highlights from the build: Anchoring the frame into concrete. I've never drilled/anchored to concrete before so it took me a bit to get comfortable with using a rotary hammer, and then actually getting the tapcons fully sunk into the holes was a pain.  Board is connected to the base through a hinge and two support struts:  Finished adding all the plastic holds:  I measured everything like 10 times because I knew ceiling clearance was gonna be tight:  The wiring and LEDs at the back of the board. Plugging all the lights into the wall was the hardest part of this process and I think I have an RSI for my thumb because it takes a lot of force to get the lights into the little holes in the wall.  Final product with a poodle for scale: 
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Dec 27, 2023 18:44
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drat. Nice job.
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Dec 27, 2023 18:59
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spwrozek posted:drat. Nice job.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:07
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That looks awesome man! I'm foolishly heading down the path of building our own, I think the kilter holds are gonna get here way before we get the board made though. Are those 2x6s on the framing? Feels way solid even with just 3 cross pieces? I've seen some where people just go nuts with bracing, but this seems pretty minimal. If you get a sec, can I get a picture of the hinge?
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Dec 27, 2023 19:12
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Baddog posted:That looks awesome man! It does seem like not enough studs. The wood walls I have built we always ran then 18" on center (24" is probably OK though). spwrozek fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Dec 28, 2023 |
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Dec 27, 2023 23:22
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Baddog posted:That looks awesome man! Yeah the frame is 2x6s, and it feels as solid as the freestanding walls I've climbed in a gym. It wobbles a bit when I do big moves at 165 lbs but it's steady for my wife who's closer to 115. The limited frame did seem a little sus to me at first, but I checked and it seems to be common in these kind of walls. More backing might cut down on the wobble but I feel safe climbing it. I'll try to take a pic of the hinge tomorrow.
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Dec 28, 2023 05:10
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Xyven posted:Finished building my home wall on Christmas, just waiting on crash pads and it'll be strictly better than climbing at my current gym. 
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Dec 29, 2023 00:22
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graveyard in clear creak was pretty drat nice today! https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114158750/hellbender
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Dec 29, 2023 07:55
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Xyven posted::drool: Wow! That thing looks clean.
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Dec 29, 2023 15:25
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Yea, that's a sweet setup
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Dec 29, 2023 17:04
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Baddog posted:That looks awesome man! Hinge pics:   
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Dec 31, 2023 22:54
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Xyven posted:Hinge pics: Thanks! There seems to be some debate that the correct/safer way to mount the hinges is on the face of the wall, to reduce the forces pulling them out. Of course that is harder to make to look clean though, you don't want a hinge plate on your climbing surface.
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Jan 14, 2024 20:09
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Xyven posted:Finished building my home wall on Christmas, just waiting on crash pads and it'll be strictly better than climbing at my current gym. this looks great
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Jan 18, 2024 22:34
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Recently I’ve been having pain/irritation on my toes, which I assume is related to climbing shoes. There’s no sign of athletes foot, just my middle 2-3 toes feel almost raw. There’s MAYBE some redness but not really swelling. It’s been off and on for a week, and I can’t find anything about it. I’m certainly going to go my doctor, but I was wondering if this is a problem anyone has had before?
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Jan 25, 2024 16:04
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The only pain I get [in my feet] is in the bone/joint for my big toe
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Jan 25, 2024 19:19
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Slow News Day posted:Does anyone know of any belay glasses that have a 90 degree viewing angle? Everything on the market seems to be 60 degrees or so. I want to be able to see directly above me while looking straight ahead, basically. But literally why, if you are belaying from directly under your climber you're doing it wrong. Unless you're top-roping...wait do you want a pair of boggles for the gym?!?!
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Jan 27, 2024 02:53
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K918 posted:But literally why, if you are belaying from directly under your climber you're doing it wrong. Boggles in the gym (for belaying a leader) is normal though? The gyms near me have areas that are crazy over hung
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Jan 27, 2024 04:58
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yeah i always wear mine when belaying a leader in the arch or roof sections of our gym
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Jan 27, 2024 05:14
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I wear mine cus I'm old and my neck hurts after belaying one route, indoors or outdoors, overhung or not. A dude pointed me to those little mirrors they have hanging 50 feet up, and I'm like goddamn man, I may *look* like I'm 20 and have perfect eyesight.... Anyways slow news day, I found these for you, but they are drat expensive. My neck doesn't hurt that bad! Supposedly you can wear these over glasses though? That's cool. https://pitchsix.com/products/belay-glasses-eyesend-adjustable-view Baddog fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jan 27, 2024 |
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Jan 27, 2024 05:25
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Bread Set Jettison posted:Recently I’ve been having pain/irritation on my toes, which I assume is related to climbing shoes. There’s no sign of athletes foot, just my middle 2-3 toes feel almost raw. There’s MAYBE some redness but not really swelling. It’s been off and on for a week, and I can’t find anything about it. It’s probably just tight shoes scraping on your curled toes. I have huge calluses on some toes now where the shoes have aggravated the skin constantly - you could tape them while climbing?
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Jan 27, 2024 05:48
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I have such a skewed idea of how famous "famous" climbers are. I saw Tommy today on pearl st in boulder (for those not familiar, that's the downtown mall that's popular with tourists). He just sits down at a table outside and nobody approached him, nor did ANYONE appear to know who he was besides myself and my non climber wife (she inexplicably loves climbing videos/movies despite having zero desire to participate). I guess maybe everyone is like me recognized him but didn't care enough beyond saying 'oh look, that's Tommy' but for some reason I assumed in boulder Colorado someone would have either obviously stared or approached him or SOMETHING. EDIT: I've seen other pro climbers in the gym and assumed that everyone was leaving them alone because they're climbing, but I assumed it would be different with Tommy for some reason Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jan 28, 2024 |
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Jan 28, 2024 03:03
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