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User error? Sharma did put up 15a in Anasazis. There are a variety of things that could be going on. Both shoes are relatively flat. The Mythos is a much stiffer shoe. What type terrain are you having trouble on? Steep? Vert? Slab? It is harder to toe-in in a flat shoe on steep terrain, but I'd expect you'd have the same issue in the Mythos.
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Feb 13, 2013 18:02
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Drive elbows down and knees in? Edit: Oh and spend a week at Indian Creek each year.
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Apr 3, 2013 18:09
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Walked posted:hexes Why? Are you concerned with weight? If not, then cams are way more versatile.
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Apr 8, 2013 15:13
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spandexcajun posted:Big bros After you place one for the first time, be sure to kick it. Totally reassuring.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:59
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armorer posted:Portland climbing If the weather is good on Mt Hood, check out French's Dome. Edit: Broughton sucks. Fun goes to die there. Carver requires the purchase of a pass (private land). Don't bring dogs to Carver. tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 17:46 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 17:42
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Anyone heading to Ten Sleep this weekend?
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May 23, 2013 17:45
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You know what sucks? Breaking your ankle on a warmup. But seriously, build a stick clip. It's like $20 for a painter's pole, alligator clip, and two hose clamps.
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Oct 2, 2014 23:30
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Once you chop a rope into the sub 50m range use it for the gym? I don't see a compelling need to buy a rope specifically for gym use.
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Nov 15, 2014 18:23
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BJ Tilden once told me finger strength couldn't be trained. To be fair, we were drinking at the time.
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Dec 18, 2014 17:24
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Does Boreal even distribute outside the EU anymore?
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Jan 30, 2015 19:04
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turevidar posted:Does anyone have recommendations for preventing and dealing with callouses? I've been sanding mine, but it's tough to get the ones at the base of my fingers without tearing up my palms. I glue sandpaper to a dowel that I chopped down to 6 inches or so.
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Feb 3, 2015 18:30
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 1/3 of the way up Shelter from the Storm at Arrow Canyon, NV tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Feb 23, 2015 |
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Feb 23, 2015 18:24
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Endjinneer posted:Nice! What's the deal with the quickdraws on the routes either side of you? Are they crag swag or in-situ or something? Some of the routes are fixed, some just happened to be up at the time.
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Mar 1, 2015 01:05
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armorer posted:BD RMA
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Mar 25, 2015 16:41
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Usee0F_Ya98 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Owz-XX4Kk8 Excerpts from Neil Graham's technique video. Kind of cheesy, but worth a watch.
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Apr 1, 2015 17:56
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spwrozek posted:doing it all by feel.
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Apr 3, 2015 05:17
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Stick clips: nothing more embarrassing than breaking your ankle on a warm up Build your own stick clip. You need a painters pole, 2 hose clamps, and an adjustable spring clamp. tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 17:50 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 17:46
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 Al's Diner (My first 5.13!)
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Jun 5, 2015 15:54
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https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLajYFniMZtJjgk0hlM7SN28GCdEFe42Hw Here are some AMGA videos that might be of use.
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Jun 23, 2015 15:56
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tortilla_chip posted:Stick clips: nothing more embarrassing than breaking your ankle on a warm up Glad you're ok
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Jul 1, 2015 14:43
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Keldoclock posted:Portland, OR climbing I was never very impressed with the local climbing options in Portland. Frenchman's Dome should be in season at this point, it was my favorite area while I was out there.
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Jul 16, 2015 21:43
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drat I love the fall. Maple finally has some friction. Scoops AKA 51  
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Sep 21, 2015 22:22
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No that was like pitch 8 for the day. I was pretty fried.
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Sep 21, 2015 22:54
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Yes... it is Maple after all.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:39
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They hate their necks and have never belayed anyone on a project suss go in Pipe Dream.
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Oct 7, 2015 03:26
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 Finally got the invite to Poptire. Utah > Colorado.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:41
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 Had a good weekend, cleaned up an old project at the crag where I grew up. Clipping the chains on Girlymon. tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 16:36
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Kalymnos is terrible. Do never go.
tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 08:29
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armorer posted:Are you there now? I just left this morning! Ah bummer, maybe we ran into each other like goons in the night. I've been at Grotta and Panorama mostly.
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Nov 19, 2015 19:09
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 Entering the crux on Orion, a very fun 7c+ at the Odyssey Wall, Kalymnos
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Nov 21, 2015 08:27
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How is the road up to the Homestead? Do you still need a 4x4 with rear lockers to get up?
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Feb 9, 2016 23:31
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The merits of cardio training for climbing are often debated, however in my experience a decent baseline is useful for recovery on endurance style routes. I think it's the Anderson brother's RCTM that says that running/biking adds unnecessary weight in the lower body (for climbing specific performance). Rowing is good for building strength and stability through the shoulder girdle, as well as in the rhomboids which are often neglected by climbers.
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Feb 29, 2016 19:43
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80m is the new hotness.
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Mar 9, 2016 17:56
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Front > Momentum We've been getting some storm cycles but depending on the weather usually one of Joes, LCC, or Castle Rocks is typically in.
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Mar 16, 2016 15:00
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Sharma sent Sprout in his flip flops for a warmup before onsighting the rest of the Pipe Dream cave. I hate that he is so drat pretty too.
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Mar 18, 2016 19:49
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Sounds like a TFCC issue... good luck!
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May 10, 2016 20:51
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Mons Hubris posted:Just signed up for a Meetup to go outdoor toproping for the first time at Pilot Mountain in NC next month. Quote this post when I fall off a mountain. Can't be any worse than Tinder dates on Steort's Ridge.
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May 17, 2016 19:56
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They say Sessions is the best 12 in the Uintas and it's probably true. 
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Jul 9, 2016 01:42
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Mr. Crow posted:endurance? Treadwall, but it's hateful.
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Jul 21, 2016 14:43
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Best flash of the year! A true American Beauty 
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Jul 28, 2016 17:09
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