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pantschat: i wear cheap khakis that i find on amazon. I've been bouldering in a nice pair of Kenneth Cole Reaction flat front pants, they breathe well, don't get caught up, and provide some light protection against abrasion. They also cost fifteen dollars, which is kind of cool.
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Feb 14, 2013 05:00
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Ha, I could see that. An alpine harness is bad in anything though. I wear old work pants and sometimes jeans, just anything that fits well really. I've got a good pair of cutoffs I rock in the summer. You're That Guy wearing jorts at the crag. I salute you.
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Feb 15, 2013 16:45
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Depends how badly you want to climb. I'd just tape it up and keep on rolling.
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Feb 21, 2013 06:19
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Thread needs more pictures. My favorite slab problem ever, even at v3: The Rib @ LRC 
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Feb 27, 2013 05:55
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I love spring. 60s almost all week around Chattanooga, hope everyone else is as lucky!
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Mar 9, 2013 20:21
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Change it up. Put bouldering on hold an do a shitload of routes. Depending on where you live (ie the availability of local climbing), find a partner and project some hard things to be a goal. Find a rich partner and learn trad! But don't just keep doing the same thing. Work on another aspect of your climbing, and when you go back to serious bouldering, apply your new additions to the problems. For me, going hardcore on routes for a while really helped with the endurance I needed for full on, sustained boulder problems.
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Mar 15, 2013 05:08
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So it looks like I'm moving to charlottesville, va come August, and while I know of the big name places a few hours away, what I really want (more like need) to know is what is really local. I've seen there is a gym there, Rocky Top, but if Anyone could give me a clue as to what else is nearby, I'd be eternally grateful, you could even PM me and maybe we can get together if you're in the area!
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Mar 25, 2013 03:18
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Stangg posted:Two words: boot bananas. alternatively, "not evolvs"
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Apr 11, 2013 19:54
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Yeah, I've seen guys send V8s in approach shoes.
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Apr 19, 2013 03:53
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I haven't seen much love for them here, but I absolutely swear by Scarpas. The Vapors go on sale pretty regularly still, and the Boostic is hands down the best shoe I've ever worn. I've heard some say they are dependent upon the shape of your feet, however.
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Apr 21, 2013 02:03
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I kind of disagree with some of the previous training advice. Being as efficient and technically correct as possible is great up to a point, but there comes a level where it won't make you any physically stronger (or at least not with any speed.) once you send whatever you're working on, and are confident in your ability to do so, start climbing in ways to maximize your gains. Straight armed is your weakest position, so try to keep arms flexed and locked off there. Outdoors you will almost always be able to find two feet, so train indoors using only one foot at all times. Keep body tension at a maximum by staying squared up with the wall: no back stepping. And moving staticly isn't the end -all be-All of climbing. If you try to be static ALL the time, you aren't training contact strength and technique. Jimmy Webb sets at TBA in Chattanooga and I overheard a guy complaining to him about just that fact about a route jimmy set. He was told "then I guess you can't send it." There are all sorts of styles of climbing and it never hurts to work on every aspect. Finger strength, core, and technique are all important, use the gym to train them all, don't ignore some facets for others.
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May 1, 2013 04:25
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Papercut posted:The main problem with climbing sloppy and dynamic is that you're much MUCH more likely to injure yourself that way, and nothing hurts progress more than injuries. Except that "sloppy" and "dynamic" aren't mutually inclusive. You can easily be dynamic and controlled.
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May 2, 2013 02:00
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Reread what I wrote. There comes a point (For me it was around v6) where technical expertise isn't enough. I simply wasn't strong enough to continue applying the skills and movements I had learned. From there, I began training in a less efficient way in order to increase grip strength and core (primarily.) if every time you go to the gym you focus on maximum efficiency, and sending whatever projects you are working on, eventually you'll probably hit a wall. It may be different for a person like me, who lives in an area with plentiful rock very nearby, and being able to treat the gym as a supplement and training ground, rather than progression. But for me, and for others I know, a lot of future progress came from untying myself from the notion that I had to climb a certain way, or that there was a "correct" way to climb. In the end, it's about doing what you have to do to get up and over a stone, be it a cliff or a boulder. I'm a short guy, and for me, that meant learning how to use contact strength and dynamic movement effectively (and efficiently, in its own way.)
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May 2, 2013 03:26
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I honestly wish I could climb that way. Around here the rock is either too-easy slab, or horrendous throw-and-lock-offs, with some exceptions. Gym setting tends to end up that way, too, especially on 45 to 60 degree walls. What helped me the most was learning how to properly stick those moves: enough force and momentum to go "past" the intended hold, and hitting it already with bent arm and a bunch of flex. Hard on the tendons, very campus board like.
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May 2, 2013 03:49
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Get something Velcro (rather than lace up), something a bit downturned, but not to a ridiculous degree (ie not shamans/solutions/boostics/dragons), reasonably priced (sub 100) and preferably not evolv (stank nasty). I started out with the boosters i think. Miuras and Talons are other popular choices I think, and the Talons are usually on super sale.
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Jul 1, 2013 23:42
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TotallyUnoriginal posted:Goddamn rain ruining my goddamn Foster Falls trip. Do you chatty locals think it'll be worth a drive up from Florida this weekend? We've already gotten a bunch of bunks reserved at the Crashpad Some of the stuff at the bunkers stays dry, but with this much water you're probably SOL. You could always come to chattanooga anyway, and spend all your money at the flying squirrel Dan and Max, the owners of the Crash Pad, opened it a few weeks ago. Honestly, the only thing nearby that might be dry is MAYBE the honeycomb roof up in Dayton, and that's only one section of bouldering.
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Jul 6, 2013 23:02
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UVAs bouldering area requires a 45 minute intro class before they will allow you on.
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Jul 10, 2013 14:10
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The best way (to me) I've seen bouldering grades compared to route grades is by how hard sequences in routes can be. For instance, in a 5.11a you could expect certain sequences up to roughly V2 in difficulty, etc.
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Aug 1, 2013 01:12
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Good Dog.
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Aug 16, 2013 20:24
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Pedestrian Xing posted:I've been to the local gym (Urban Rocks) a few times and did some climbing at Lookout Mountain last weekend and had a great time. There's a local group going to Obed this coming weekend but it sounds like it's way above my level. Right now I really want to find someone to go to the gym with to get some practice in, there's not that many routes with an autobelay. I just moved from Chattanooga, and I'll be back for a week or more come january. If you'd like, maybe you could join us when we inevitably go hit the crags we've been missing (I know it's like three months out, but still)
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Oct 16, 2013 18:28
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Sure do, PM away.
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Oct 18, 2013 02:53
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Dogleg! Gilgamesh! Around what grade?
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Oct 23, 2013 18:25
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Texibus posted:Is it just because of the smaller hand holds and the more vertical nature that increases that difficulty stuff? A whole host of things can be responsible for increased difficulty ratings, but there are always exceptions: how steep a route is can contribute to the difficulty (overhangs), but ones that are less than vertical (slab) can also be more difficult due to it's greater exposure to the elements such as rain and wind that overhangs are protected from1. Size of holds can contribute of course, but there are tons of routes that have huge holds which are very far apart. The Red River Gorge is infamous for this on such routes as Dogleg (5.12a-b?) which has very good holds separated by large slabs of blank wall. The grade itself isn't going to give you much information about the route, so a visual inspection at the gym or a guidebook description or "beta" (information regarding a route) at the crag is going to be your best bet apart from simply jumping on the route and giving it a try. I don't know if that made any sense. 1Greater exposure to the elements means the holds and features get worn down and become smaller/smoother much faster
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Nov 26, 2013 02:08
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2014: Some solid attempts on V12, and learning how to set around V10 consistently. Regarding V3 chat: quite a few gyms set everything up to V2-3 as open feet to stress the importance of proper footwork. That is to say, problems with harder holds than usual problems of that grade, but the opportunity to learn optimal foot placement to counteract it. Try working on something harder, but allowing yourself the same freedom of footwork. As an aside, jumping on things that are outside of your range is one of the best ways to get better as well as to build strength and confidence. Many climbers (and not just new ones) make the mistake of only trying what they think they can send. Instead, if something looks fun and interesting, try it, regardless of grade. If one move in particular looks really cool, climb up to it on easier holds and just try that one move. One thing you could potentially as of your gym in that vein is to hold off on grading new problems for a few days after they are set. It removes that mental grade barrier and lets you give it everything you've got without a preconceived notion of difficulty or likelihood of failure. Personally, that was a huge thing that helped me get better mentally and physically.
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Dec 31, 2013 19:19
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Tons of body weight exercises for me, personally. Hanging leg lifts of all variations, front levers (drop set them by tucking 1 leg up or having someone hold your feet), and traversing 45 degree walls or steeper.
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Feb 2, 2014 20:42
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No joke, especially on steep problems and routes you'll find yourself having to cut feet and get to a new foot as soon and as stable as possible. It's your core that makes that work.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:44
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If you love the vapors but don't quite like the heel as much, the boostics are absolutely amazing and far and away my favorite shoe. They've got the front of the vapor V but the back of the Booster and they fit like a dream. Along the same lines as the future, though, I wouldn't recommend them until v4/5.
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Feb 21, 2014 19:56
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 14:06 |
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I've always found that plastic is more rough on my hands than real stone, but that could be either anecdotal, or simply because of the stone itself (beautiful southern sandstone.)
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Feb 24, 2014 23:36
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