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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
It's a good gym. But you do have to make an effort to get you money's worth with the facilities and yoga/climbing classes. Fortunately you can choose to not pay for summer months.

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
40m of rope isn't likely to be enough unless you're able to belay from above.

Rope manufacturers don't even sell 40s, and 50s are going out of style because they aren't long enough for most US routes.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Yeah, you should resole when you have shoe you like. If it's possible, sometimes it's just too far gone.
But upgrading from literally the cheapest climbing shoe that exists is generally a good idea after you are no longer a beginner. I recommend La Sport Katanas, Scarpa Vapor Vs, or Tenaya Ras as all-rounders for intermediate-advanced climbers. Obviously, you may want specialized shoes for certain tasks.::

Also, you can put Evolvs through the laundry, which supposedly works really well. Though I just climb in leather and skip the stank problem.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I've had my Vapor Vs for over 18n months. They still smell great. It's all about the leather.

Letting them air out instead of keeping them stuffed inside a gym bag helps too. I was at the gym for two hours tonight and I just stuffed my nose in them to double check while I'm typing.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Climbing barefoot is about the worst way to climb. Get shoes before you worry about a chalk bag or a harness.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Are you climbing to build muscles or improve technique?
Muscles need rest days to rebuild (how do you not know this, it's high-school phys ed), but if you're not sore in the morning, you probably didn't work then hard enough to need one.

Climb two rest one is a safe compromise if you're too eager to go easy. A lot of more experienced climbers will climb five, rest one. But they have the technique and endurance to do so.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Learning to place gear typically comes after a period of sport leading (bolted routes), and a period of cleaning up other people's gear (following) to learn skills, confidence, and correct placement.

If none of your friends lead trad, consider taking a course. And be prepared to lead two grades lower than you toprope.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

modig posted:

Prana Zion Capri pants. Best of both worlds. Also any random zipoff pants works pretty good too.
You mean the "Nemesis Knicker"?
Zipoffs are for dorks :v:

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Learning to toprope belay is incredibly easy. It can be a little tricky to do it quickly, but the knots and technique are definitely something you can pick up on YouTube.

Just never ever let go of the brake side, and you'll be fine.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I (still) live in Golden, so Clear Creek, Eldo, Boulder, North Table, South Platte, anywhere in Colorado, really, will be good for me.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
The first half of my trad rack showed up yesterday. Gotta go make these cams less clean :black101:

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Rime posted:


My shoes hurt like hell though, one of them is eating the back of my heel and my toes are terribly squished. They've been fine in the gym but outdoors is a whole different set of moves. Did MEC do me wrong by insisting I go down from a size 10 to a size 7? Should I try and exchange for a larger pair?

Yeah, 10 -> 7 is really extreme. Definitely seems like you're either in the wrong size or a very strangely designed shoe.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
It's all user-submitted content. So its best in the US, particularly at popular areas. Colorado is relatively well covered.

But if you are able to add good info to their website, more people helping makes for a better result at lesser-known spots.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Jun 19, 2014

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Gloves are more for rope burn. Your hand shouldn't be getting that close to the device.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Dutymode posted:

I'll be in Denver this weekend, any suggestions for bouldering gyms?
I assume you will have a car.

Denver proper? Or can you get to Boulder? I'm a fan of The Spot. It's a pure bouldering gym, with a fairly large amount of space.

If they're too far, Rock'n'Jammin is also really good.


Or you can take a $4/45min light rail trip up to Earth Treks in Golden.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I heard the save thing from the evolv rep; just throw them in a wash cycle.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

pokie posted:

Useful stuff, but what does the quoted statement mean? I.e. what are chains for?

They're the fixed anchors, the top of the climb.

You clip quickdraws into them, just like any other bolt. Except that when you're done on that route, you can use them to rappel without leaving any gear behind.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

alnilam posted:

Can anyone recommend a good squeezy grippy thing for building forearm/grip strength?

I've had to be out of climbing for a while and still have to for a few months. Meanwhile I'd like to rebuild my grip and forearm strength a little.

A tennis ball and some rubber bands.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I would think that's within warranty. Particularly since it's only the one buckle.

Even assuming you're shooting low on your estimates, that's only around 30 days climbing on the shoes, and not a place where a shoe usually wears out. Hopefully you'll be able to prove that you bought them recently.



Ed: particularly with indoor climbing there ought to be little to no 'wear' on the upper, since you will rarely if ever stick them into cracks.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Jul 29, 2014

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

spwrozek posted:

Any Denver folks want to climb Saturday morning?

Next weekend? Going caving tomorrow

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
What shoes with padded heels? I've never heard of such a thing.

Personally, I'm in love with the Katana, and it's brother-from-another-mother, the Vapor V.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

lime rind posted:

One other thing I'm curious about. Is there a recommended way of getting into ice climbing? Are there prerequisites of sorts before taking classes for that?

No wimps, no whining, no flaking out.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Some people here are making cleaning a route seem way harder than it actually is. Do you really get scared about being off belay? I'm usually relieved when my life is in my own hands.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

IMO it's just as easy if not easier to push a bight through, tie a figure 8 on a bight and clip that than to untie, thread, and re-tie in. and you never come off belay. not sure what makes it harder, other than just being something different than what you're already used to doing.
You need to come off belay anyway.
Why lower when you should rap?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
The mythos is a 20 year old design that's kept alive people with oddly shaped feet or strange fetishes for soft shoes that stretch out.

Buy a modern shoe.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

chami posted:

I read that the Mythos tends to stretch to your foot since it's leather, but what makes it different or inferior to "modern" shoes? Not as aggressive of a toebox or something? What shoe line would you recommend then for someone who will mostly be doing top rope and bouldering?

It's not just stretching to your foot, it's also getting sweaty and losing it'd shape overall. It will stretch out of shape because there's nothing holding the leather in shape. If you buy them, you must get them at least two, possibly three full sizes down. This is essentially the minimum to get a power position out of your foot. Unlike a modern design which will have an appropriate curve and stiffness, and will use its rubber to hold the leather in shape.

I would only recommend the Mythos to a new climber if they were super-dedicated to multi-pitch, crack climbing, on a strict budget, and had funny shaped feet.

Try on more shoes. Look into the Tenaya brand in particular.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Get one of this year's updated Petzls or this year's updated BDs.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
What do you need it for? It's not a diving light, but it will be proof to anything reasonable; I think BD rates it to 3 meters depth.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

lime rind posted:

"Tarantulace"

I'm thinking of getting a pair of those glasses some people use for belaying. My neck was getting pretty tired after belaying someone stuck high up on a problem. Is there anything I should try (common mistakes to avoid?) before going that route?

I would skip the glasses and get nicer shoes. But if you're dead set on them, be aware of your situation, you can end up with tunnel vision and not actually see your partner any better. And also misstep and fall over.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

big scary monsters posted:

Make sure you try both types on if possible, velcro and laceups don't always have the same fit in my experience with Sportiva shoes. The Miura laceups fit me great for instance, but I didn't like the velcros. For Katanas it was the other way around.

That's because the Miura and the Katana lace/velcro's are misnamed. The Katana Velcro is more similar in some aspects of its shape to the Miura lace and vice-versa. They really all four ought to have totally different names, because they're so strangely crossbred and share some aspects but not others. Crazy Italians :eng101:


Edit: to my knowledge this problem is not present in the other models

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 30, 2014

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

big scary monsters posted:

Haha, well that makes sense then! By far my favourite shoes, especially for bouldering, but yeah the differences in fit are weird.

BTW, if you like the fit on the Katana Lace, you might as well just strait upgrade to the TC Pro for only $30 more.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

lime rind posted:

Yeah, manufacturing defects were what I was thinking about. But nevermind, mine came with detailed instructions on how to inspect it.

Buy from a reputable brand and you won't have to worry.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

spwrozek posted:



Basically I need to be able to get the climbing and yoga in Monday to Wednesday to make it worth it. Also need to find a partner or two willing to go to the gym.

Forgot to reply to this last week, but I (still) live about three blocks away from the earthtreks. So I can meet you or other goons there almost any day.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I have never in my 8 years of climbing seen anybody bring their own rope to the gym.

Save your money.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Different places have different rules. What a world!

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Endjinneer posted:

What? So what do you do with your old ropes if you can't use them indoors? You know, the ones so furry you could wear them as a scarf? The ones that handle like a rusty bike chain.

Make a rug, hang a hammock, use as a boat anchor line, make a garden trelace. Non safety applications.

Why would the gym let you take some janky pos into their facility and fall on it. If you have a failure, they're going to have to deal with it.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Nah.

15-20 bucks is pretty much standard for a day pass. You pay off the value of the monthly membership in only three or four visits. Hopefully you get classes for free with the membership, too, so you can pretend like you're getting the climbing, the weight room, and the clinics all together.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

armorer posted:

What he said ^^^ plus a bit about where the confusion comes from. "Free climbing" is climbing as we know it. "Free SOLOing" is climbing by one's self with no ropes or safety devices. The terms are similar enough that when someone says "He free climbed it", people often hear "He free solo'd it" which means something quite different.

Pretty much this.

The real problem is that very few people who are "climbers" aid climb anymore, and even then they only really talk about it in relation to big walls*. So the distinction between "climbing" and "free climbing" has really fallen away until even I was confused when I first read the NYT headline the other week. To climb free is to to be able to ascend the wall without any help.




*Anytime you pull on a draw or step on a bolt, you are aid climbing. You lazy sonuvabitch.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
^^ Balm ^^

I've had a Momentum and an Adjama. The adjama is much more comfortable, but I definitely agree about having to cinch it down way too far.

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
What's your body shape like?

I like my Adjama, but there are a lot of harnesses on the market these days.

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