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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Gonna go against the trend and say Tenaya Masai or Ra, depending on your preference for laces or velcro

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Katanas are excellent shoes, pretty much the same as the Vapor V* but a little narrower. I climb in them both all the time, and would absolutely recommend them as a daily driver.



But I also think the mythos is a dinosaur that should be retired. The katana will size totally differently from them, probably at least a size and a half up. (And maybe about a full size down from the vapor.)




* The Katana was the last shoe the designer made before he took a job at Scarpa. The Vapor was the first shoe he made there.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
It's too floppy and soft, and you have to size down too far because it stretches too much.

I'd get La Sportiva TC Pros, Tenaya Masais, Five Ten Anasazi Guide or Anasazi Pinky to hit that same "all-day comfort, lace-up" zone, and there are other shoes out there for people with differently shaped feet.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Just buy a loving ascender or two Jesus Christ. They're like $60 even before deals.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

CoasterMaster posted:

Jesus Christ. I've got a similar carabiner (same thing, but doesn't have the small belay section). That being said, I love this drat thing because you can easily unlock with one hand and Goddamit are they fun to just play with. Seems like they're stopping manufacture of these since I can only find orange...so my blue one better last forever.

It's not the same thing if it doesn't have the belay partition. It just has the same closure mechanism. They parts other than the actual magnet inserts are formed in different molds.

They come in a few colors, just call and ask for a specific one when you're doing your online shopping.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone bolting here? I'm looking to get my hands on relatively cheap A4 (AISL 316) expander bolts and hangers. They are too fing expensive here in Sweden...

Well, unless you're planning to pick some up while on vacation, I don't see what we can do for you. Shipping to Sweden is the killer on heavy items like that.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I learned my lesson when my nicest water bottle disappeared out of a cubby. It was very fancy stainless with a painted thing on it. loving thieving Boulder hippies

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Fixit posted:

[Person] at REI was telling me [bad advice].

:rolleyes: Heard that before

Ed: Jul's are really great, if you feel like you need a new biner to go with it, then pull the trigger.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 03:02 on May 1, 2015

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
The bod? Really? That's basically an alpine harness. Basically anything you get will feel very different, and probably much better. I think most people in this thread use the Sama or Adjama, but there are a whole lot of choices in that $50 to $70 range.




Ed: If you're willing to go up to $120, that covers most harnesses made by most manufacturers. You may want to start narrowing by features instead of by price

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 06:29 on May 4, 2015

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Save me jeebus posted:

The women's ones are bright pink and are ugly as sin, IMO. It was a [poor] joke.

When I worked at a shop, I'd bring out the women's Solution for a customer who asked for them, and that woman would immediately ask if we had the men's in that size or for another suggestion.

armorer posted:

Shoe chat - A bunch of pages back I asked for alternatives to the Mythos, and was suggested TC Pros. I have a pair on right now, and I like them.

I'm glad you like my suggestion. :)



Edit: and Katana vs Miura is a nasty incetuous mixup of four shoes with two names and two closure systems. Do you want velcro or laces?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

armorer posted:

Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online?

http://hydestore.com/richard-95077-4-to-12-soft-grip-aluminium-extension-pole-3-sections.html

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/589006-unger-professional-3-section-telepole.html

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ettore-16-ft-Reach-Extension-Pole-44016/204267834?N=5yc1vZcb3g

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

big scary monsters posted:

Any good tips for winter specific training? It's a little while to go yet but my last season was a complete washout and I live a lot further away from the ice now so I want to make every trip up there count. At the moment I'm just doing lots of axe pullups. I climb leashless but I'm doing most of my pullups on straight shafted tools to simulate those gripped runouts.

Do that, but with this variation:

Have multiple sets of pegs so you can pull up, take one handle off, move it to another peg, then lower. Practice moving your grips and swapping hands while hanging one-handed.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I'm honestly the same feeling but opposite. I'd rather take a fall and be caught by the rope than worry about if the crash pad will be in the right spot.

Sport/trad every time. (Except the gym, which is just training anyway.)

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Dutymode posted:

For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.

Sometimes you train 48 weeks to climb outside for 2 days in September. :v:

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Christmas for two.

Rest week before and after the trip.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Chris! posted:

Last weekend I attended a "crack climbing masterclass" run by the Wideboyz (famous for the first ascent of century crack, and a bunch of other good routes, and who were featured in the awesome Wideboyz climbing film (which is highly recommended)). The course was great, I learned a ton. See some pictures below.

Rather than regurgitating the stuff learned from there, search "Wild Country crack school", they've released some really helpful videos walking through crack climbing techniques. Even with my hands covered by tape gloves (which they show you how to make, and are invaluable I've realised), I'm still missing a fair bit of skin at the moment!


Crack climbing is good and excellent, possibly it is The Best (tm). Anybody who doesn't like it is a whiny baby.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Save me jeebus posted:

I did my first multi-pitch lead today! So stoked.

My second, however, thought my Chouinard #1 Camalot (a gift from my mentor) was fixed gear that I had clipped and left it behind. :argh:

Better go back and get it

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Get the Wild Country nut tool with the bungee. It;'s honestly super-handy.

For alpine draws, I'd go mammut or BD slings on a small carabiner that has some mechanism to stop it from catching like the current Oz or DMMs.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
You should do some lifting, yes. But not truly serious lifting.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Siamang posted:

One of the most humbling things I discovered when I started is how little transfer there is between types of grip strength. I had decent closed-hand 'crush' ability but could barely hold onto a pinch or sloper. Pinch and crimp strength has improved a ton but I still don't spend as much time as I should training slopers.

Slopers are honestly more technique than strength.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
You know your game is good today if you can edge on buddha's nose.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Use a rope

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

vonnegutt posted:


At the time I was annoyed but afterwards I was just like, "what 7 people drove all the way out to watch their buddies climb? Do they have nothing better to do?"

That's the college experience: hanging out with your friends while they do their hobbies because you enjoy their company and you've got free time.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I like Salewa for my narrow feet

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
IMO North Table Mountain looks like it should be great but is pretty garbage to actually climb.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
It's cheating.

but if it keeps you from taking a whipper then it keeps you from taking a whipper. Lead falls suck.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Papercut posted:

A sound strategy to avoid loving

That'll do it

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
I had a good friend who had real bad frostbite on one toe and just put that foot into an ugg boot and climbed one-footed at the gym for a few months. Doing this turned him into an absolute monster when he could use both feet again

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