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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
So I have a question as far as injuries go. It's not so much of an injury as much as a tweak. Little background I guess I climb 4 times or so a week, specifically bouldering. I boulder at around v8-9 and I have found out of the blue when I heel hook with my left leg there is a sharp pain in the pit or back side of my leg. Wondering if it just needs to be stretched out more or what.

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

ConspicuousEvil posted:

Do you stretch your legs before you climb now? If not, then I would definitely suggest stretching your hamstrings and doing butterflies stretches before you start climbing. If so, is the pain located at your knee, or somewhere else in your leg? if it's your knee then you could have some IT-band issues or something else related to connective tissue, like tendonitis.

It's more of on the left back side of my knee. Since I've noticed the pain I have started stretching.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Recently been pushing through a plateau myself....finally. Been bouldering around 7's and on a good day 8's but now I'm consistently hammering those down too. I've started a campus board program as well as I built a peg board in my back yard to really work on one arm lock off strength. From switching to training more then climbing, when I do climb I feel a lot stronger. Also I've incorporated once a week the "Daniel woods special" which you should be able to find the video of it on YouTube. If anyone has questions about strength gains ask away. By the way my plateau was caused by excessive drinking and eating like a neck beard more so then usual. So nutrition, nutrition, nutrition people

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

quote:

I actually had a follow up question - how long have you guys been climbing until you got injured? The kind of injury that puts you out of climbing for 1+ months (tendon injuries/sprains or whatever). I've only had a mild ankle sprain so far but nothing serious enough to keep me from climbing. Judging by all the injury posts though, I'm guessing it might just be a matter of time before I'm due.

I climbed maybe two years before my first injury which to be honest almost all of my finger/arm injuries are due to not warming up fully. Which I can't stress enough! I always warm up 25-30 minutes before I pull onto anything even moderate. Warm up being non strenuous static climbing at low grades as well as stretching before that.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Video from a ccs comp we just had. I set men's 1 and women's 1 finals route. Andy lamb showed up and cleaned house fresh from placing third at nationals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxJ3QNgdRh8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

French Canadian posted:

Off to Bishop this weekend! Anyone else gonna be out there?

I'd like to accomplish something in the 6/7/8 scale but I'll probably get shut down.

Maybe something in the Ice Caves in the Sads...there's a cool 10 that didn't seem to bad when I tried it.

Beef cake get some!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Just picked up 250 holds for my wall! And super cheap! So stoked.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Unoriginal Name posted:

My completely unbiased opinion is that evolv's of all kinds smell like the devil's rear end in a top hat.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
This would hold true if you were climbing the same route...every time you climb. Each route or problem has different movement. Yea your still working out arms and core and whatever but you use specific muscle groups for each climb.

That being said if your really worried about it climb every other day. I train about 5-6 days a week but the days that take the most energy are spaced every other day.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Meatbag Esq. posted:

Anyone climb at planet granite Sunnyvale looking for a buddy? Or somewhere else reasonably nearby I have a car.

Not really close but we should organize something one day. I'm in the central coast.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Heads up mountain project app is now free.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
I love obnoxiously yelling DAB

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
I've recently become a fan of my normal sizing of the 5.10 moccasins for trad and buying a size or half size smaller then that for bouldering mainly so that they are tight enough that they don't slip off doing heel hooks.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
some recent climbing adventures











jackchaos fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Dec 3, 2014

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Save me jeebus posted:

Where's this?

In order Moab, Joshua tree, and lovers leap Tahoe.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
That's so rad that legends was held at your gym! I should be getting out a few more places soon so if people like the pictures I can try to post some when I finish them.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Bilirubin posted:

I should start sport climbing again this year.

Pros: fitness, now living near the Rockys
Cons: old, no longer immortal/indestructable

no excuse
http://www.climbing.com/video/video-61-year-old-francisco-novato-marin-projects-5-14b/

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
The fact that it actually said that somewhere is somewhat laughable. Hang boards are great/original training system for climbing, other then climbing. You can see gains in as little as 3 weeks of consistent use. That being said you need to know how to use it in a way that you will see gains and not injure yourself. My advice is look up different hang workouts. Download hang timer from whatever app thing and focus on largest grips at maximum weight until your work out gets to easy then start making your way down the board. Open hand, open hand, open hand everything. On pull ups. The actual action of doing pull ups in repetition is benign for climbing. The way they can be beneficial is by adding weight! Weighted pull ups are a fairly easy way to boost pull strength. My last comment is about core. As a general statement core is everything. So work that poo poo out!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

deck posted:

There's no real rules here. Only you can know if you're overdoing it, and you might not realize it until something pops.

I'd like to over emphasize this. There are no set in stone standards. What works for you may not work for others. This really applies to climbing! Probably why people love bouldering so much! It's the problem solving!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Still B.A.E posted:

chances are you're still really poo poo at climbing (no offence, everyone is).

This is great for any newbie climbers or folks looking to get into it. Don't let this fact get you down!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Anyone planning on being around bishop for new years? I think we have a crew rolling deep around then.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

crazycello posted:

Nope but I'll be there in late March. Any advice for someone who hasn't climbed in the area before?

Get a book, get cheap day old goodness at shats bakery, there's a hostel now, get a fire permit it's free and you can do it from your phone, get a book, bring a friend! If you are staying for a while try the happys, sads, and the milks. If you stay at the pit sometimes there are huge mosquitos and I've had problems with one of the camp hosts there(was probably the loud laughing and whip cracking). Final note, bring your balls and do a highball. I recommend heavenly path if you are looking for something easy!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Got invited to setter showdown, which is a comp for setters. Anyone have comp route setting tips?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
For anyone thinking about bishop this week temps are currently cold but good.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

For reals 20 dollars!? That's getting scalped. We have a 24 hours gym and the membership cost is only 45. Btw one of the setters from l.a.b. won the setters show down last year so enjoy the problems.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Id never pay over 12 for a day pass. Ridiculous. Then again industry is usually free. So id never really pay...

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
http://gripped.com/profiles/watch-dawn-wall-live-now/


last bit of the dawn wall push streaming live

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Thoughts on the new zenith rubber on upcoming boreal shoes.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Climbing is applicable for shooting photos. Have more of the recent ccs comp I took if requested.



jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008








Sorry pics came out a little yellow.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
If your near San Diego come down to the grotto right now for the Setters Showdown! I got to watch John long ride a unicycle.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Who likes caves

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Dutymode posted:

Where is this?

This is new going up in Santa Maria, ca.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

spwrozek posted:

Did my first trad climbing and trad lead yesterday....very fun, little scary.

Spent $600 on trad gear today.........:)

What did you get!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
All my alpine are bd slings and neutrinos. Make sure to get a few long ones if you get anything else get maybe a bd 4 and a 5. Those ones you may not use often but got drat so happy you have it when you need it. I have a double rack but only going up to bd 3s. So if I ever get into that size crack I usually just run it out and not think about it till I find a sexy spot for something else. Mainly when I've needed bigger cams it was too build an easier anchor. That being said usually you can find ways around it. Just may not be the prettiest or easiest.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Speleothing posted:

Slopers are honestly more technique than strength.

Yes this but also compression is a big part most people don't think about for slopers

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Bishop the weekend of Oct 2nd! Going to be costumed shenanigans at some point any are welcome to join in the fun!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

tortilla_chip posted:

drat I love the fall. Maple finally has some friction.

Scoops AKA 51




Is that a knee bar pad?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Gotta rep kingdom hold cause they are local ish and because Louie and them are awesome he's also vendor for kilter so can't go wrong there.

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008




Bishop!
Ps uploaded with my phone can't tell if pictures are embedded right. Let me know they are too big so I can fix.

jackchaos fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Oct 5, 2015

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