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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Something from bishop for the weekend.


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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
It's mostly a wide assortment of PG and Touchstone gyms. Make friends with Baysians! Asians from the bay. I have quiet a few friends in that area.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Any goons in j tree for thanks giving?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Ill be in j tree we should have a space station meet up! Ill be there from Tuesday to Sunday!

Friday or Saturday night pig pen throw down for those in the jtree area!

jackchaos fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Nov 24, 2015

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
J tree fun



jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
I've worked closely with Louie a few times he's a cool dude. Join route setters anonymous on Facebook. Just watch/take notes of the setting videos. The book is great for basics but that's about it. Rule of elbows for reach. Touch the hold at max arm extension then bend your other arm pointing your elbow in the direction you want the next hold. That's about the max distance you'd want to set holds to not make them to reachy. Also forces you to set more technical vs just big power moves.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
can someone give me pros and cons of rowing instead of running, for climbing.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Nifty posted:

Joshua Tree's easy stuff is generally really hard. False Hueco in the outback is gym-y, though

this. jtree was pretty much a dick swinging contest/play ground for old stone masters. So everything tends to run stiff, especially cause most of it is single pitch.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Just so you guys know there are sites that you can sign up if you work at gyms or anything relating to outdoor industry that give stupid discounts on different gear. Had one while working at a zip line and for some reason they gave me discounts on climbing gear. I now own a double rack.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Favorite gym/trad shoe. 5.10 mocc

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

spwrozek posted:

I would not think of this shoe for 75%+ bouldering on overhung problems. Maybe I am wrong though.

Forces you to toe harder, which is fine by me. Better foot work= better climber. Only downside is if the problem forces an aggressive heel hook. I just get them a half size smaller then my ones I use for trad so they stay on better. Also they are cheap!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Yos bound! Anyone around?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Just listened to this great pod cast. Its by kris peters, about finger strength.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/kris-finger-training/

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

IMO his comments about removing weight using a pulley for hangboarding don't make much sense. he thinks it's OK to remove up to 40 lbs for a grip, but thinks if you're removing more than 40 lbs that you shouldn't be HBing. not sure where the 40 lbs threshold came from, but in my own experience, i've benefitted a lot from HBing some grips that require removing more than 40 lbs.

in particular, for 2-finger pockets and small crimps, i've removed anywhere from 50-70 lbs to condition my tendons in a controlled way. i don't often climb on pockets or thin crimps when i'm training in the gym, but will encounter these grips on outdoor trips. since they're fairly tweaky grips that are perfect for popping pulleys, i've been using the HB with a lot of weight removed to "pre-hab" my tendons so that when i do encounter one of these holds outside, i won't be afraid to go for it
Usually the round about way you train two finger pockets is alternating hangs open four, front three, back three. This allows for strengthening of all the fingers also boosting the benefit of beefing up your middle fingers. Once hangs on these felt easier I moved to smaller holds. From then on when I felt confident in hanging middle two without station or injury I did.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

magicalmako posted:

Shoulder pops are scary :(

If it's yours read up on subluxation. Start doing preventative stuff like yesterday.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Tots posted:

Does anyone have some good training regimens? Climbing roughly V3 V4. I have lots of trouble open handing/crimping and could probably stand to improve my footwork quite a bit.

Id add in weight stuff fit General fitness but in that range unless you've climbed it for over a year. Just climbing is the best training. Hours build strong tendons before you try to break them down. Focus on foot technique and climbing open hand.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

Business of Ferrets posted:

Lead climbing will fix that issue!

Second this, almost lost mine on multi pitch cause my partner would pull too hard as I was cleaning and the rope would hit me in the face.

Other then that never had problems with my glasses and I have to wear them all the time since contracts make me motion sick for some reason.

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Weighted pull ups 3-5 reps 3 min rest in between, 5 sets. Is a standard training I use. And something pretty much all training coaches use. Probably don't have to do ur more then 2 times in a week. But you will see gains. You want enough weight to where you are almost falling on your last rep.

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