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I don't know what they would say in a real competition. I climb at a little university gym and I don't see people use them, mostly because of the danger of losing a finger. If the route is set well, there should be no need to use them and I would try to avoid them. They are there, after all, to have holds bolted in to them, not to have fingers stuck in them. I don't have super-extensive outdoor experience, but I have only found one boulder problem with a mono-pocket out in Brecksville, OH. I can't imagine it is a super common feature.
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Dec 24, 2012 20:22
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armorer posted:The most common (roped) warmup at my gym is for people to start 2 or 3 grades below their "project" climb, and climb one route per grade until they get up to it. The bouldering crowd tends to warm up by climbing (and often downclimbing) 3 or 4 simple problems. You can certainly take more time warming up than this, and some of the regular climbers do, but this is the most common thing I see. This method has worked really well for me when top roping. Lets say my project is a 5.12a. First I will jump on a 5.7 to get my fingers and tendons warmed up. Then a 5.9, then a 10a or 11a. I want to get warmed up, but not waste all my energy getting there, so I keep the letter grade low, and climb my project for my 4th climb. If I am really tight I might stretch, but that usually means I have been neglecting flexibility and mobility work outside the gym. Your results may vary, you have to find what works best for you. Everyone has a different opinion, and in the end you just need to climb hard without injury.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:26
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ZeroDays posted:My bouldering gym actively discourages spotting because apart from being mostly useless, it may end up in two people being injured instead of one. This is crazy. Just like you practice bouldering indoors to go outdoors later, you practice spotting indoors for when you go outdoors and the landings are not made of soft foam. The place we boulder outdoors in Ohio has terrible landings with steep angles and lots of sharp rocks. The spottter(s) have to be on point to make sure the climber falls onto the pad safely. You should not learn this outside, but rather you should learn in the safety of the bouldering gym how to safely spot someone. 99% of the time inside it is useless, but you also learn how they fall, when they tend to fall, when to move the pad, and how to aim them safely onto the pad. You do not have to be all up in their business in the gym, but you can help keep your partner from injuring themselves if they have that freak fall. Rock climbing is already dangerous and laziness in the gym should not contribute to that.
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Mar 31, 2013 03:26
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