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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

DrAlexanderTobacco posted:

In other news I finally bought a pair of shoes after ~8 months using rentals

What made you decide to wait that long? I'm one of these "sedentary but about to start climbing" goons (first time looking at this thread :)) and I was already thinking I might just buy a pair. I was introduced to the sport ~5 years ago while visiting a friend out of state and had a lot of fun. New gym in my area opens this month. I was planning on renting for a month or two, but if I stick with it beyond that then I may as well just grab them? I think I'm mostly going to do bouldering though, so I can save money by skipping a harness.

e; On the off chance, are there any goons in this thread in the 716 area?

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Apr 8, 2019

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

First day climbing today; new gym just opened. V0's easy, V1's some were a tad challenging, V2's got like one done... V3's lol wtf.

I was not prepared for how much my forearms, wrists, and fingers hurt! gently caress. And go figure now that the nice weather is here, while walking my dog we saw our first rabbit of the season; so she had to chase it and I did not have the strength to do much about it. Looking forward to going again soon, though.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I tried a smaller size shoe today than yesterday; my gym doesn't have half sizes. They were kinda hurting the arches of my feet- is that normal or were they just too small? My toes felt good, just the arches...

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Slimy Hog posted:

Does it hurt to wear your shoes? They're too small

Like in general? No. But after 2 hours of wearing those shoes yesterday, yea, the arches are still kind of sore today.

My normal shoes are a size 10 mens, so I tried a 10 on Saturday and they were decent. A bit of extra room for the toes so that's why I decided to try a 9 yesterday. I think for the basic stuff I'm climbing I'll be fine wearing 10's so I'm probably just going to do that until my gym gets their merch in and then I'll try/buy a 9.5 and see how that is.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Gym opened last Saturday. I went then, Sunday, Tuesday, and last night. Definitely over did myself, but holy poo poo climbing is like all I've been able to think about since that first experience. Rest days are the worst :(

I watched Dawn Wall shortly before the gym opened, then after reading through the past dozen pages in thread or so I decided to rent Free Solo on Amazon this morning. Absolutely incredible. I can't imagine climbing for 3+ hours straight, never mind 3000 feet up in the air too :v:

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Ravenfood posted:

nobody sees people brushing off slick holds.

As a newbie, I feel like I'm not "attuned" to climbing enough to know when a hold might need cleaning. I just chalk (:haw:) it up to, "It's doable, I'm just weak/not doing it correctly"

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I suppose it varies from goon to goon, but how long would you guys recommend a new climber (and a not super active person in general) wait for 'rest days'? Like I said I went 4 times in 6 days last week (last time was Friday).

My dominant arm is still mildly sore in this area;

But I'm afraid if I go again tonight after 2 problems I'll be cooked for another few days.

I guess my wrist is also a tad sore, but that's probably just from being at a desk all day for work / poo poo ergonomics at my desk at home.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Decided to order one of those bands since they seem to be so highly recommended. Took a week off and then climbed again this weekend - I think I did slightly worse on most of the problems than the week before, but oh well.

Been watching the IFSC stuff on YouTube in the mean time; watching the Chongqing finals right now... This PetraKlingler's arms are fuckin HUGE compared to all the other women. Interesting to see her / lots of the climbers struggle just to start some of these problems. Makes me feel better about having the same issue with a lot of problems I'm working on :v:

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Apr 28, 2019

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Hot Diggity! posted:

Getting to the last move over and over and not being able to figure it out sucks rear end!!!

I can do all of the V2's in my gym except for one. It's just got a massive over hang and I have to really pull myself up with my right (non-dominant arm). I've been stuck on it for like 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts. I know I can do it, I just need to be a little stronger. It's a very easy problem to figure out... I just can't reach it. They're all big jug holds, but yea.

Made a little progress on a V3 that I've been stuck on for equally as long yesterday though, so that felt really good. The holds are much harder and there's a lot of foot work to this one, it's a good challenge and I was really psyched to get a hold or two higher than before.


Are there are any goons central Massachusetts? I'll be out that way from Thu - Mon this week, was thinking of going to Central Rock in Worcester on Friday maybe.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I don't know what that means

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009


:psyduck: this hurts my head just looking at it.

But no, I've watched a few people do this wall and it is extremely straight forward. I'm just a sedentary baby who has only casually done yoga and walk my dog prior to the gym opening last month. ~25% BMI so while I'm not huge I'm definitely carrying a little extra weight, that's all it is.

I'll try and take a picture of it this week if I can find the time to go again.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Haven't heard of it, but I just added it to my "Watch Later" list for when I'm not at work :)

It very well could be a matter of technique; there's a fair few footholds on this problem so maybe I'm just not approaching it correctly - but I'm reasonably confident it's just a matter of strength.

Unfortunately they don't have a good photo of this problem on their facebook, so this is the best I can share now:



Start with the green holds at the bottom, work your way left, then up and to the right. I can comfortably get my right hand on the large green jug I've circled in purple. There are 2 additional holds just above that one that I've seen people do this problem with and without. I can't get my left arm up high enough to reach the hold I've circled in red.

I know it's virtually impossible to make out the colors of the holds in this photo so it probably doesn't give you guys a good sense of what I might be doing wrong or where I should be putting my feet instead.

I think I usually get my feet on the holds near that upper pink volume.


Yea I am male, so flexibility (or lack there of) probably plays into it.

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 18:32 on May 6, 2019

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Much better & higher res photo that I took tonight, but now it doesn't matter because I finally did it!! ahhh gently caress you boulder you're not better than me!!! Really shocked I managed to do it because I was there for 90 minutes yesterday so I was feeling pretty sore today.

edit; haaa just in time too. They just posted on facebook that they reset the problems today. A few pages back there was a lot of talk about Climbing & "Sadbrains" which I definitely suffer from but I had a stupid smile on my face for a while last night after finishing that problem so that was cool.

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 21:08 on May 7, 2019

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

How long did shipping take for you? I placed an order on the 28th and still don't even have a shipping number. Should call them, now that I've realized it's been that long :v:

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Caf posted:

Is that a CRG? Looks like one of their walls but I don't recognize the feature.

Congrats on the send.

Central Rock Buffalo, yea. It just opened less than a month ago.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Slimy Hog posted:

The whole "get the tightest shoe" thing is not a great idea when you're a novice

Why's that? Sounds counter-intuitive.

My local gym just sells Evolv Nighthawk and... some other $80 pair of shoes that I can't recall the brand of (as well as some other brands for well over $100). I figure once the Free Rentals expires at the end of this month I'm going to grab those. They do 20% off for Members so that's way cheaper than Amazon.

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 17, 2019

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Got'chya. "Tight enough but bearable for 90 minutes" seems to make a lot more sense, yea. It's interesting to note how my tolerance for tightness has improved in less than a month, though. Like the second day I went climbing I tried a size smaller than what I used the previous time and it was almost unbearable. I've flip flopped back and forth a few times since then but now I definitely prefer a size 9 over 10's.

Been out of town just after my gym reset, and now I caught a cold. I just want to climb drat it :argh:

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I assume in this case bad footwork refers to the habit of placing your foot, then "pivoting" it until you find the right placement? As opposed to repeatedly moving your whole leg to try and reach a hold?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I'm now at this awkward point where I can easily do every single V2 at the gym, but I can't complete a single V3. There's one where I get half way up and then have no idea wtf to do, 1 I can get a little bit up but don't think I have the raw strength to do it yet, and then a few others that are more of a flexibility issue than anything. I guess just keep on throwing myself against it / practicing climbing up & down on the V2's? Anything else I can do?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Yea I try to talk to people, someone did give me some really good advice last night that made 1 problem go from "What the gently caress is this" to "Oh, that makes sense - I think I'll get it in a week or two". Unfortunately it seems like everyone is either crazy good and doing much harder stuff, or just starting out doing 1's and 2's :shrug: Like the one I got some feedback on last night, that was the second time I've seen someone else attempt it over the last 3 weeks I've been going :/

There is a V4 that is pretty simple, just has holds that are a little more difficult that I'm making good progress on.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Sab669 posted:

How long did shipping take for you? I placed an order on the 28th and still don't even have a shipping number. Should call them, now that I've realized it's been that long :v:

Still hadn't gotten a shipping tracker from TheraBand; finally called them this morning... and their phone system doesn't work? Shot them an email and they got back to me pretty quickly. Turns out the one I ordered was out of stock which their website didn't indicate (or I missed it :downs:), they apologized and said they'll send me a "clinical flexbar, it is the same thing but packaged differently"... and they're overnighting it to me, which is very cool.

Also ordered some of those little finger resistance bands off Amazon as they were only $10. gently caress those dumb V3's I can't do yet, gonna eat 'em for breakfast in a few weeks :getin:

I might try to film myself as some of you suggested, but most of the problems I'm working on are completely surrounded by padding and other walls - no where to set up my small tripod & camera that wouldn't get knocked over as people walk around.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

M. Night Skymall posted:

I realize we're all goons in here, but you could just ask someone to film you. Plenty of people I don't know well have asked me to do that before and it's fine, the vast majority of my(and most people's) time at a climbing gym is just sitting there watching people climb anyway.

:ohdear:

I'd be comfortable asking people for advice but I'd feel a little silly asking them to film me failing :v: Oh well, just need to stop being a baby I guess.

crazycello posted:

finger bands might help with tendon health but they aren't going to make you stronger or better...

Oh? A friend who initially introduced me to the sport years ago said they helped him them. Oh well. Just something to fidget with at work then :v:

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Went again last night with the intention of taking it easy / try to be more social.

Ended up making friends with a cool couple and then one slightly better climber came over and we all helped each other, then one really good dude came over and he was a great instructor. Like not only helping with beta, but describing how to actually move your body.

We ended up just loving around on a bunch of different problems, culminating on us trying some problem that hasn't been graded yet. You start in this weird Warrior 2 kind of pose and really have to sink into your legs and then jump to make this dyno. Was really fun because we all failed to do it statically at first and then I just jumped and nailed it; it felt so satisfying. Couldn't get the second move but I don't even care.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

What is "protecting" or "4x4"?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Woops, I read it as proJecting but I clearly I just shouldn't post at 5AM when I first wake up :downs: I kind of figured it was just "something you can't do" but wasn't sure. Thanks :)

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

George H.W. oval office posted:

Pickup “Self Coached Climber” I consider it to be like reading Starting Stength when first starting to lift. It’ll get you up to speed on all the necessary concepts of climbing

Rad. I've been watching that Masterclass climbing playlist someone linked earlier, and while it's informative I feel like I haven't really been able to figure out which technique to apply when/where, so more learning materials should be good.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Finally finished two separate V3's tonight! :dance:

That said, the one I really want to complete continues to elude me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWL22RH-IKw

It gets reset on the 4th, so I've got like 1 day left to try it unless I want to climb multiple days in a row which sounds like a bad idea :(

The two holds I have my hands on around 20 seconds in, whether I move my Left or my Right arm up... as soon as I let go of the hold at 20 seconds I fall off. No matter how hard I grip with my toes, try to pull my hips in etc...

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I'd love any input at all :) I've talked to a few people, watched a few people do it and while I watch them I'm like, "Oh I get that" and then get I on the wall and it's just :psyduck:

Some people use those foot holds to the right, some don't.

The holds look pretty juggy but they're honestly super poo poo

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I've tried reaching from lower foot holds, getting higher up actually feels better (but maybe it's not actually better). I'll give that a shot on Sunday, but holy poo poo my arms are loving torched this morning - I don't think I'm going to be able to do this one :(

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Sound_man posted:

needs more pictures

is it common to go barefoot?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Arghghghghghg just spent 2 hours on that same problem, tried a few different betas, including flagging as one of you suggested, and none worked :( A few other people did it tonight, each one doing it differently.



Eventually I found if I toe-hook that hold where my hands are here, I can match on that upper hold. But then I can't quite get my right arm up to the next hold (out of frame), and then there's 1 final hold after that. If I had another week I know I can do it, but it resets on Tuesday. At least no one can say I didn't give it everything I've got, though. gently caress I'm going to be dead tomorrow.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Oh, what I meant was left arm up, then out with my right to one of those holds to the right of those pink volumes. Then match with my right to the one where my left hand is. At that point, I think I don't know where to go with my feet in order to get that extra inch of reach for the out-of-frame hold.

I don't think I'll physically be able to go tonight, which is a bummer because I really wanted this one. But oh well, there'll be others, right? This sport/hobby is addicting as hell you guys :getin:


edit; also while most of the climbers I watched do reach out with their right arm first, I find that I just don't have the strength that way. I'm left handed, so reaching up with my left then out with my right was working a lot better

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Jun 3, 2019

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Zephro posted:

Is the book still applicable to someone who does 95% indoor bouldering, at least for now? I have ambitions to do more outdoor roped climbing but I have a family and a job and the countryside is flat for miles around so those ambitions are shelved for the next decade or so.

I've literally only read like 5 pages, not even, but so far it just talks about center of gravity and how moving your body moves your COG in different ways.

I suspect this will be a helpful book no matter what type of climbing you do?

Also, so far it's very dry. It reads like a highschool science textbook.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

KingColliwog posted:

I suggest you just try to do all the techniques you can on v0 even if they don’t really fit just so you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t and when.

Like here’s a video of me warming up on a v0. There’s nothing necessary in what I do and some move are definitely making it harder then it needs to be and some move simply don’t really fit. But I think it’s helping me progress a whole lot since every time I understand different moves a bit more and get when I can use them effectively, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0BBhqLW_Js

Oh just saw all this you editted in :) That's a good idea, I'll have to try that next time I go.

That problem gets reset tomorrow so no more attempts for me. Last 2 visits were predominantly focused on that problem but now I guess I can go back to throwing my face against others / general technique practice

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

OK pushed my self one more day and yea, so close but so far. I tried a few other routes / things you guys suggested but honestly none feel as good what I described in last night's post. I've probably watched 10 different people do it now and I've probably seen 5 different betas :shrug:

My arms haven't hurt this much since I went 4x the first week the gym opened. I'm kinda bummed I wasn't able to send this one, but also I'm happy to be free of it.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Grats :D Tangentially related, what do you guys look for when buying shoes? Like how do you decide on a pair? Just a matter of personal preference as far as how "aggressive" the shape is?

Also I ordered shoes through my local gym because they do a 20% discount which made them much cheaper than Amazon... But apparently their shipping speed is approximately as fast as molasses, which means I've now spent more in renting shoes than what I saved from the discount, which is dumb :argh:

Unrelated, how many different disciplines do you guys do? I don't have any good climbing friends so I've only done bouldering so far and I enjoy it a lot, but I kind of want to try top rope just to do something different :shrug:

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jun 11, 2019

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I suppose a better way to phrase that question is what makes a particular style of shoe better at X :)

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I just recently learned there's some outdoor bouldering to be had less than an hour from my apartment, so obviously now I want to check that out :)

I don't own a crash pad, but assuming I did, what do I need to transport said pad from my car to the site? I've seen videos of people carrying them on their backs via some sort of backpack-esque thing but I don't know what these are called and I can't seem to find them on Moosejaw or Amazon. Under Moosejaw's "Climbing packs" section, it looks like they just carry backpacks that I presume would be used for hauling a frame/tent/other camping equipment up a cliff.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Oh, yea, now that I've looked at a few more I do see they mostly seem to have backpack straps on the underside. the first few I clicked through didn't include photos of these / didn't make it explicitly clear in the product description.

Well that's cool, because these are pretty expensive and I was not in love with the idea of needing to buy pad(s) AND a carrying device. And apparently I need a permit to boulder at this site (only $25, but just one more thing...)

Thanks for putting up with all of my stupidnewbie.jpg questions :)

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

spwrozek posted:

But beer tastes good....

This has been my problem the last month or so. "Climbing would be so much easier if I could only lose 5-10 pounds" but then every Friday there's donuts at the office, work kickball league encourages drinking etc etc

:negative:

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