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Don't suppose anyone knows of outdoor places to climb/boulder in or around Texas? I am from the UK and meeting a client in the states in a few months and thought might take a few extra days off to climb whilst I am there. I tend to climb in the F7c/5.13a if the climb suits me, and on a good day I will send a V8. In reality though the grade doesn't matter, just wondering what it's like around there but I have heard it is pretty flat so anywhere that is a day drive away would be nice as well.
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Jan 13, 2013 22:44
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 04:29 |
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Well I'll be staying in Houston. I don't mind driving 18 hours or so if it means I get to climb.
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Jan 13, 2013 23:09
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That's a mountain equipment glove. I quite like their stuff, I put them up there with Arc'teryx as the best outdoorswear stuff. Have used their stuff extensively on hikes, climbs in the alps and climbs in the high Himalayas.
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Jan 16, 2013 00:11
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After two weeks of trying I have sent my newest project coming in at a cool Font 8a, or v12 to americans. Now I think I might apply some ice to my rather sore fingers. My 8a/5.13b project is also going quite well, but it's weird how the crux of the boulder problem was solved by a simple (excruciatingly powerful) drop knee. I had a bit of a Sharma grunt going. Remember people, just keep on cranking. JustAnother Fat Guy fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Feb 9, 2013 |
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Feb 9, 2013 21:56
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So I was starting to get back into the swing of trad, and had a nice E2 project (crack climbing which I am terrible at) going but unfortunately the UK got beset by a blizzard this weekend, so I went back and attacked it with ice axes and crampons and climbed it. 
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Mar 24, 2013 18:07
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Diver Dick posted:I have a climbing friend who is planning on taking a bucket list sort of trip to the Sierras in 2014-15, and he's left the door open for me to tag along. IIRC he climbs in the 5.11-12 range outdoors, and he's been active for years. His main target for the trip is a multi-pitch 5.10b with "lots of straight in finger jamming", with backpacking and camping at altitude. I can definitely handle the backpacking. I also have my own basic gear and screw around at bouldering walls and rock gyms a few times a year... but I've never been on anything worse than an exposed scramble outdoors. I'm used to being roped in and exposed to heights for work, but I have no real reference point for the difficulty involved here. Crack climbing is a different type of climbing in my opinion it's so different to your average gym climbers repertoire. I know friends who can climb E6's outdoors which are face climbs but an E2 crack will completely mince them, or they will end up trying to layback it or some other "rookie" mistake. Just get outside and start crack climbing, a 5.10b crack climb isn't actually that difficult once you practice the technique over and over again, and get your ankles and wrists used to being jammed in at horrifying angles. It hurts like a bitch at first and you will run up quite the bill with tape, but it's worth it. Crack climbing in my opinion is one of the best types of climbing as so many people are poo poo at it. I see 70 year olds climbing E2 cracks solo at some of the gritstone edges here in England. All about the technique bro. Get the gently caress out there and just climb as many cracks on top rope as you can with your friend, it will loving hurt the first few weeks, but no pain no gain. Then step up to leading, and after a while soloing them is not out of the question as once you get it right crack climbing feels so solid. Another point that was raised was make sure you do know how to swap a lead safely, and get your friend to teach you. Most good climbers are very happy to accommodate people with less experience. JustAnother Fat Guy fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 11:07
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And with a bang it was all over. Managed to completely tear the a4 pulley ligament in my right ring finger off its attachment site on the bone. Was trying a monstrously crimpy route without warming up properly, in reality I really deserve no sympathy. The saving grace was it was the last move on a V12, the downside was it was plastic  But seems I get a good few months of recovery whilst it re-attaches. At least it's a good excuse to get better at crack climbing. JustAnother Fat Guy fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 17:34
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jackchaos posted:Give me advice to get off this v7-8 plateau. Anything in particular giving you trouble? When I plateau I generally get other climbers around my level to critique me. Ask climbers for advice, trust me they will gladly dole out the abuse when it comes to your technique and strength. Dave Macleod has a good few theory's on why this happens, but it's all about being smart about it. Around v8 was when I noticed that my core wasn't very good, so I started doing a pretty nuts core routine to strengthen everything up, which I found on this site: http://coachingendurance.com/blog/2009/01/around-world-core-workout.shtml . This laid me a good base for really getting some serious climbing based core exercises done. After I was able to do 30 reps of each exercise there quite slowly and controlled (which left my drenched in sweat), I started moved onto deadhang legups where you bring your knees up to the bar you are hanging off. Show off exercises like one arm pushups and pull ups are also fairly good for core, and work antagonists. Just remember to do each rep really slowly, the tension is what you want.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:14
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http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/fatal-accident-on-el-cap A moment of silence for a fallen brother  As a fellow big wall climber, I can't think of any worse of a way for the guy to die. Kind of takes a little bit of the fire out of wanting to do the big adventurous ascents.
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May 20, 2013 20:48
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Also clean your shoes, don't be that guy who puts dirty shoes on the rock and polishes it to glass. I did an 8a in france where I could see my face in the holds.
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Jul 29, 2013 23:26
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That's why I like going to the far north of scotland. Place is so dead you can walk for days without seeing anyone. So many boulder fields which have never been documented. Unfortunately the weather is terrible, and it is remote, so rescue is a bit of an issue if poo poo goes awry. One of my friends did a font 7b highball by himself there. He plopped a mat down, put 999 predialled into the phone, and placed it next to the mat in case he fell. Luckily he managed it and showed us the film of it.
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Jul 29, 2013 23:51
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I've noticed in gyms you really need a widespread of setters in terms of ability. One small little gym, which is just two rooms of bouldering is set by a world class boulderer who has set for the world cup. His top end problems are HARD, but his easy problems tend to be either super easy for the grade or hilariously difficult. Luckily he's letting a few of us comparitive peons in climbing ability set and it's starting to even up a bit.
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Jul 30, 2013 12:45
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In the UK we tend to get both the font grades and the american V system. One grade system I cannot make heads or tails of us is the american Yosemite system. But then again trying to explain the British trad grading system to an american is a lost cause I've noticed
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Jul 30, 2013 23:01
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I'll probably get some of the Evolv bandits and I am quite worried about the smell  I have slept on portaledges with used Evolvs next to me, and of a choice between the poop tube and the Evolvs, I would throw the Evolvs off every time.
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Aug 3, 2013 09:45
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That route looks unironically awesome. I rarely get to see many sports multi-pitches in the UK as we are a trad mad nation when it comes to our climbing. The whole idea of alternative pitches for harder climbing alongside a generally cool route is really nice, and the belays look tres excellente. I do get tired of trad multi pitches sometime, they're just so much faff with directional pull pieces and such. I would like to visit Colorado at some point in the next few years once I save up some more money.
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Aug 14, 2013 14:01
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I've started with preventative medicine for flappers. I just trim the calluses down with a nail clipper every few weeks as I seem to have hands which refuse to turn into rhinohide but just stay permanently callused and have done for years.
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Aug 15, 2013 18:14
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Just rest it for a few days and gently climb on it in such a way that doesn't hurt it is my reccomendation. If you've truly hosed it to the point it hurts doing anything with your hand then rest it and ice it. Also as the tendons have a phenomenally crap blood supply, do some cardio to get blood moving around as that's helped me with multiple ligament and tendon injuries in the past. Prevention is worth a mention as well, does it hurt when doing any sort of hand hold in particular? If it is open handing holds then it could indeed be the tendon. If it is crimping that hurts then you've probably tweaked a flexor pulley.
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Aug 18, 2013 15:00
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She just needs to be made aware of the fact that if you are new to climbing then it takes a while to adjust to the new demands on your body, especially if you are already quite unfit. I started climbing a while back as a bamboo thin weakling with zero muscle who came from playing computer games all day. It took me like 6 months to do a single pull up and for a man I am told that is fairly bad . But I stuck at it and after that first few months were over I got a lot better and it's onwards and upwards from there. Also I am still a bamboo thin nerd body type, but hey at least I can climb now 
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Aug 18, 2013 19:14
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Whenever I crack climb I fear for my collateral ligaments. Like a pulley or tendon tear I have coped with in the past, but torquing a finger out sideways and tearing the joint capsule is a potential injury that terrifies me  What's the sort of recovery period on those? I've become quite acquainted with pulley injury care but collateral ligament injuries seem a lot less documented.
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Aug 18, 2013 20:07
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Or the most vile pinches known to man.
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Aug 23, 2013 22:49
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Taking a few big drops from the next clip at your waist is a good way to get it out of your system. Do that a few times, and your height problem is pretty much solved. Just for the love of god learn to fall properly, fractured skulls are not nice.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:32
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In my experience, free weights have never helped for any major strength gains. The only times I use them is for strengthening my rotator cuff. Just climbing tends to be much better for your grade up to about V6/V7, or 7a~ on sport. Past that, core training and other stuff helps.
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Aug 27, 2013 10:06
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 04:29 |
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Wor posted:Hello climbing thread. Is it too soon to bring the ice climbing and mixed climbing stoke to the thread? Scottish ice season is looking a month away if lucky. My axes are sharp and my crampons are being sharpened tomorrow. Time to buy some new screamers, and go lay waste to the high crags before winter makes them impossible to access.
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Oct 14, 2013 07:58
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