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Yo salt lake people, gonna be in salt lake for two weeks starting Monday. Unsure of my schedule right now, but anyone have gym recommendations or possibly willing to Boulder somewhere on a weekend?
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2016 02:04 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 01:01 |
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Thom and the Heads posted:went climbing for the first time this weekend. absolutely loved it despite being the only fat guy on the wall. My lack of expertise seemed to inconvenience a few nine year olds heh. did you guys know "5.12" is actually really, really hard and not .8 easier than a 5.2? Haha in any other setting you wouldn't be wrong! Glad you enjoyed it, keep in mind it takes (alot!) time to get good at it, so just stick with it. Don't get frustrated if you hit plateaus, it's a very cerebral sport and determination is key.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2017 05:34 |
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gamera009 posted:My season is done. Hangboard, you will be a beast by the end
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2017 05:36 |
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Great Metal Jesus posted:Uh. RIP. It is definitely safe, with the caveat that you don't work out back muscles and biceps on every non-climbing day. If you haven't lifted much, a general overall routine would probably be best initially, and then you can try to cater to climbing specific workouts. Core workouts are the most applicable to direct climbing gains, and you will definitely see improvement from doing dedicated core workouts. Depending on how hard you generally boulder (say 80% intensity and up hypothetically) you will generally need a rest day or two. Also increased general strength is highly useful for bouldering, don't let anyone mislead you. Having jacked legs is the one area that won't be conducive to climbing harder though. For someone that has only been climbing two years, I would highly advise against climbing everyday, your body almost certainly isn't adapted well to that type of rigor. Unless you are sport climbing 9s and below everyday, in that case go wild Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Apr 6, 2017 |
# ¿ Apr 6, 2017 01:12 |
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canis minor posted:Also - you can generally find quite a good deals online, so, if you can, find the shoes that fit you and look around on the net. I've bought mine with £80 discount, and that was on top of my gym's 10% off. I don't know for US, but Bergfreunde.de was where I've purchased mine (UK, but they deliver through Europe) Completely agree with this. Size shoes in person, buy online from Amazon or steepncheap.com Zappos also has free shipping and returns if you are super lazy
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2017 06:10 |
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tortilla_chip posted:It seems counterintuitive, but I stopped having finger injuries after getting more disciplined about hangboard training. I would agree with this, I don't think I've ever seen anyone get injured from the hang board itself, but rather from mismanaging themselves and their workouts. The caveat being my statement only applies to the trango boards
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2017 01:15 |
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The moisturizing thing is probably dependent by person, but I think generally its not a good idea to over moisturize (once or twice a day?) Personally I use a sanding bar to shove off skin about once a week, maybe more often if I've recently been outside a lot and my skin is growing back unevenly
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2017 21:06 |
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Not to pick on you, but I don't think this is a very good workout plan for climbing. A few of the exercises may be helpful, but they're not very specific to climbing. If you're just trying to get some general fitness that may have some marginal cross-over to climbing, ok -- but if you're looking for climbing-specific supplemental exercises, I don't like this plan. 100% agree with this post, almost verbatim my thoughts on the matter that I was too lazy to type out. Re shoe talk: Miura VS could be a good option too, the older versions are on sale fairly often.
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2018 03:10 |
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E: I suck at simple things Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jan 16, 2018 |
# ¿ Jan 16, 2018 03:11 |
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:I'm going to disagree a bit. tl;dr: finger strength training might not be the best thing to work on for short term gains, but is probably one of the best things to work on for long-term gains and injury prevention. If you know you're in climbing for the long-term, then you should at least consider incorporating finger strength training at an early stage +1, injuring yourself hangboarding is a personal failure, not a symptom of the tool.
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# ¿ Jan 21, 2018 01:03 |
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Seconding these newbie questions. I'm 29 and around 200 lbs, and starting to get into bouldering after an inactive january and february that left me with noodle arms. I'm really struggling to do anything except the easiest climbs, and don't know where to start improving my technique and strength. Most traditional workout sequences aren't great for climbing. Focus on back, biceps forearms, core, and shoulders. If you're that new, climbing itself will make you better, not strength training. Most climbs can be done with Better technique. I would suggest looking back a couple of pages, there were more comprehensive posts for the same subject.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2018 02:43 |
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I'm not saying forego leg work altogether, but sparingly at best. If you go hard on leg day, it should be once every two weeks, really. Maaaaayyyybe once a week if its a super light workout focusing on different isolated muscle groups
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2018 03:47 |
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Also that 'leg strength' that you feel is keeping you on the wall? Its actually core. You don't need your legs for climbing, sorry to break the fantasy
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2018 07:35 |
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I wish we could indicate, scientifically, to any degree of certainty whether fish oil/turmeric actually work. I haven't seen anything other than anecdotes. . .
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2018 16:13 |
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jet_dee posted:There had to be a climbing thread here, so glad to stumble across it. Everyonr should figure out their own body, but most people I know don't use moisturizer unless climbing outside consecutively, and then only rhyno restore. Heel hooking is really about body positioning, it takes a while to figure out. Toe hooking is the same way, but involves more core usually. I would say try to find an overhung section of wall and try those things on yhr biggest jugs you can find, and repeat on progressively smaller holds to train yourself into holding them. Hang boarding has its place. If you could climb more, I think not training at this point would be good advice. But since you are only climbing once a week, I think incorporating a day of hangboarding would be a good supplement. Broadly saying someone shod wait -arbitrary time frame- to do it is just stupid
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2018 16:27 |
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I'm personally in love with the furias and dragos
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# ¿ May 12, 2018 16:20 |
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Electoral Surgery posted:why do you own loose solutions Solutions suck at heel hooking
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# ¿ May 30, 2018 06:33 |
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Get some strong finger resistance bands, available on Amazon. Use those to work your forearm extensors. The second method would be to get a rice bucket, and dip your arm deep into the bucket, and use the resistance created by the weight of the rice pushing down on your arm to bring your arm up and out of the bucket, while having your fingers splayed out. I'll see it I can find q link with pictures later.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2018 23:02 |
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Yeah at that level there shouldn't be anything you can't overcome with better body positioning and leverage of feet, especially if it's underrated.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2018 15:16 |
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Nice! So much of climbing is mental, I think that's why its so rewarding when you manage to get it right. Hopefully in time you can find ways to get past the fear, don't expect it to go away suddenly though. I think climbing outside helps too, because it makes the gym much less daunting, and as you get more comfortable being higher up, that feeds back to increase your mental threshold for climbing outside.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2018 13:36 |
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Unsinkabear posted:COME ON. At this point you're just going out of your way to not use plain english. Yeah the jargon is one of the things that always frustrated me when I was starting out. Some of it makes sense, the easiest way to communicate with someone on the wall about next moves is the jargon. . . But after the years have gone by, I've fallen deep into the machine of using it for all parts of climbing, which is really not helpful around new climbers. I've become the enemy Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Aug 9, 2018 |
# ¿ Aug 9, 2018 15:58 |
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E: double post
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2018 15:59 |
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spwrozek posted:Jargon matters to explain things correctly in most industries without blabbing on for days. Sorry that you have to learn climbing jargon. Reading comprehension is hard. Try again; the words were pretty simple but its seems you didn't understand what was written.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2018 21:40 |
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Here's the skin care I and the people I climb with follow: 1.) NEVER moisturize hands unless climbing outside consecutive days. 2.) Tape to prevent further injury, bleeding or raw skin. Not otherwise 3.) Always carry a sanding block, and preemptively sand down every finger/pad once a week after a shower or when the skin on your hands is thoroughly moist. Seems to work pretty well, I never get flappers anymore and my skin fares well against rough rock
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2018 19:10 |
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Bouldering can be done solo, just do research and go in hyper aware of how high things are, and how dangerous it id to protrct falls. Some climbs will definitely be mentally foreboding if the difficulty is at the edge of your limit. It is also a good idea to try to take two pads or larger pads like Mondos/organics.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2018 04:19 |
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armorer posted:Any Polish climbing goons? It's looking like I'll be in Warsaw for a week around the end of the month, and I'd like to climb if possible. Warsaw gyms are awful. I think you may have more success with checking on Vertical Life or Mountain project
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# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 20:04 |
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Not sure how anyone in this thread can flat out say do or don't ice, there is no good literature with studies behind either position. For tendons
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2018 06:15 |
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In feel ya, clan of injured peeps. Been fighting tendon strains and a lingering shoulder issue that just won't heal completely, and Hueco season is upon us
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2018 05:28 |
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Lol @ somehow moving past climbing is dumb and contrived to justify your own niche part of climbing being on a pedestal
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2018 21:16 |
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Jfc sand and gravel? Is this a state sponsored gym by mother Russia?
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2018 02:25 |
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Betazoid posted:So my husband and I are indoor sport climbers and boulderers. We started climbing about 2 years ago and started to really understand footwork about a year ago. I usually am in the 5.8-5.10a range and he's in the 5.10c-11c range. We took two weeks off in May and it killed us; when we got back, 5.7s were hard again. We just took 6 weeks off (vacation plus a busy month), and after two sessions back I flashed a 5.9! I was surprised I could do it! If you're struggling with crimps, hangboarding may be useful . . .remember to remove weight using your harness and go slowly. For dynamic movement try campus boarding, using the rungs that are about the finger width of the holds you plan on grabbing. If your gym has a systems wall, try to find holds/movement lengths similar to the types of movements you are having trouble with.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2018 05:22 |
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M. Night Skymall posted:For what it's worth most professional climbers have a BMI from ~20-22, so you certainly want to be thin but not starving or anything. It's probably a bit inverse proportional to height, so the taller you are the lower you'd want to be since your tendons are only going to support so much, and the shorter you are the more muscle you're going to need to do deep lock-offs and other poo poo to get more reach. For example Adam Ondra's BMI is 19.9 at 6'1" and Alex Puccio's is 21.4 at 5'2". Hm but you can also lose ROM from too much muscle. Being a shorter person (5'7), I can tell you I always feel stronger when I strength train during the off season and then taper a lot going into climbing season
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2018 15:45 |
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jiggerypokery posted:Being lighter is definitely better for climbing, but getting lighter is definitely worse for training and it's a poor trade off. A good training session > drilling bad, lazy habits because your hungry. How do you come to the conclusion that being lighter is worse for training? You should train at the weight you plan on climbing, otherwise you have to get readjusted to your new level of strength constantly. The fact that weight can be added via things like training vests, and I have no idea where you're going with that. Just because you're hungry doesn't mean your brain turns to mush when climbing
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2018 17:46 |
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interrodactyl posted:It is very difficult to build strength while you're cutting weight. No comment on the brain stuff. Gaining strength is fine, but I would argue for most people 5-7 lbs of muscle is just wasted when discussing climbing. You can't spot gain muscle in back/biceps/core, and how useful is 5-7 lbs of muscle anywhere else? If the goal is looking good cool, but I can't see that being useful for climbing.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2018 14:29 |
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:Yes you can Sorry you're right, idk what I was posting about. Don't drink and post kids
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2018 15:21 |
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Kasumeat posted:-40 really isn't unheard of up there. I'm willing to bet you don't have a sleeping bag capable of dealing with those temperatures. And the 1.5 grand that one will set you back is probably enough to cover rent for your entire stay out in the middle of nowhere. Lol I all I read from this is"never move to Canada, unless you seekin that grave"
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2018 21:24 |
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This isn't something I've personally researched, but I'm hoping someone else has. Are glucosamine chondroitin supplements useful for preventing/healing tendon injuries? I know they are marketed more for dealing with joint health, but I can't imagine they are harmful . . .
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2018 21:30 |
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armorer posted:I'm out in Vegas until Sunday morning, to climb in red rock canyon. Got some good days in, and today is a rest day but it rained some today and it's supposed to rain more over night. So, we can't climb here tomorrow and possibly not Saturday either, and then we need to take off. Is there somewhere nearby we can drive to instead to climb that's not desert sandstone? Looks like most of the other places that would be nearby options I've tried are rained out (Flag, Moe's) Bishop is probably your best option, and maybe Tahoe but I know zilcho about the climbing there (but I know there's climbing). Theres also joshua tree if that isn't rained out
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2018 01:52 |
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Not sure, I haven't tried. I'd say probably right now if it's raining overnight it'll be unlikely since most of that is uncovered. Which way are you going home? CO/NM out of the way? If it's on the way that may be your best bet even though you'll lose 1/3 of a day to driving
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2018 02:34 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 01:01 |
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Ouch. Yeah there is bouldering on Charleston in caves, that may be the safest option, but I haven't touched any of it so I'm not sure how accessible it is during rain. It may be worth stopping by one of the local gyms and asking around.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2018 02:46 |