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M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

AriTheDog posted:

While I love my gym, and the staffers are great, there isn't any safety instruction given for bouldering. Yes, absolutely zero safety instruction. There are some informational signs here and there, but if you pay the entry fee you're good to go. Seems pretty crazy to me.

I've never seen a gym give safety instruction for bouldering. Climb at your own risk I guess.

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M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Kefit posted:

Also the palms of my hands burn, especially at the base of my fingers. Will moisturizer or anything help with this, or do I just have to deal with it?

You can get burt's bee's wax or Climb On! or something like that and it helps a bit, mostly your hands just need to get used to it over time though.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

benwards posted:

But if you take your shirt off and yell when you dyno to that micro-crimp, you'll definitely climb a full grade better.

The gym I climb at has a strict shirts on at all times policy. Why don't they want me to succeed?

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

compton rear end terry posted:

My gym has a bunch of pythons on clearance (just got some last week)
I think they'd be willing to ship them to you if you paid S&H. Summit Dallas 972-231-7625

There's another goon that climbs in Dallas? What days do you climb?

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

compton rear end terry posted:

I Boulder at their Dallas location Monday and Wednesday evenings. Been slacking / busy / traveling lately, but I'm hoping to get back to Carrollton on Fridays

Whelp. I boulder Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday at Dallas and sometimes go to Carrolton on Tuesday because the Dallas location is a madhouse. Though right now I'm trying to recover from spraining my knee so all I do is sit upstairs and hangboard and do easy circuits.

Does anyone have any recommendations for hangboard workouts? I want something a bit longer, all the ones posted in the gym seem to be like 10 minute warm-up type things.

M. Night Skymall fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 6, 2016

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

RabidWeasel posted:

A place I boulder at occasionally here in the UK has colour grading for their routes and once you get past V3 the ranges are so huge that the colouring is totally worthless and you have to just judge every problem on its own merits (which is fine but why have set colours in the first place?). There's also a ton of overlap on gradings so that a V4 might be one of 3 or 4 different colours. IIRC the hardest colours (yellow) cover something like V6-V10 :psyduck:

It's because Fontainebleau is the best and if they organize their problems in some giant range by color, the rest of the world must follow suit. Never mind that Font is outdoors and you're a gym. Circuits by color or death. 3 of the 4 gyms I can climb at with my membership use the range of difficulty for specific colors method of setting and it's generally kind of annoying to climb at them since I can't just target "practice flashing this difficulty" even though having 4 gyms that regularly change their routes should let me practice flashing all the time, it doesn't because the ranges are huge and dumb. I end up wearing myself out trying to flash problems outside my range and don't really get the kind of workout I wanted. In the end I assume I how difficult problems are in a particular set and I can project interesting things but you can do that with consensus grading so I don't get the advantage at all beyond "Oh there's a blue problem across this tiny gym, now I don't need to look at the consensus grade, 15 seconds of my life saved."

It's a neat idea if you want the Font style circuits I guess, but you could just as easily do it with problems graded by consensus and just circuiting on v3s, or v3-4s or whatever you want instead of greens or blues. TBH I think at this point a lot of gyms have committed a huge amount of money to setting this way and just aren't going to back down. The setting community is kind of tiny online and prone to groupthink and shouting down people who don't think setting by color is the greatest thing ever from what I've seen of it (I'm not a setter.)

I suppose having huge ranges does save you from people accusing your grading of being soft/sandbagged but man what a cop out. I probably care too much about grading in gyms but I live in Dallas and have an infant so I'm not climbing outside anytime soon.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Ravenfood posted:

So I'm going to my first bouldering comp tomorrow and have no idea what to expect. There's almost no info on it on the website, I don't know the wall too well, and I have no idea what the skill level there is. Any help or tips or things to look for would be awesome! I'm climbing at a v3/4 grade with some long projected v5s if that helps at all.

E:. I have watched a few highlights/clips from some of the IFSC world cups so it's not entirely unknown to me but it might as well be.

Is it a red point comp? Almost every comp for adults that isn't an ABS comp is a red point comp that I've ever seen. Those don't really work anything like world cups. If it's a redpoint comp my advice is to scout problems you think you can do/point range you're interested in then warm up and wait for other people to try things then steal their beta. More importantly try not to wear yourself out trying a million different problems you can't do, which is easy to do in a comp because there're going to be a lot of cool new problems. Pace yourself carefully and in the beginning (say first half) just try problems you think you can flash based on watching other people try them, once you get the minimum number of problems to score you can start throwing yourself at harder stuff. Don't be too much of a slave to the point scale in terms of difficulty, they can be pretty loose and if a problem is in your style you may do well on a much "harder" problem than you'd think.

If it isn't a red point comp I have no idea good luck I guess. Where did you find a comp willing to do all the BS with the isolation that isn't youth competition, ABS Nationals or equivalent?

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Great Metal Jesus posted:

:stonk: Uh. RIP.

So I've got a question. I've been bouldering the days a week for a little over two years as my primary source of exercise (V5s :woop:) and wanted to add more to my workout.

Is it safe to add weight lifting in my off days? Should I do a regular routine or try and find something explicitly for working the muscle groups that don't get worked as much climbing? Is the answer to just climb more days?

It depends on your goals. If you just want to get better at climbing then adding climbing days is going to be more effective than working out. If just want to be "in better shape" then doing something else on your off days won't hurt anything, just go by feel and scale based on whether you want to progress in lifting or climbing or whatever. Exercising more than 3 days a week definitely isn't going to hurt you. I know plenty of people who climb 5-6 days a week, and some people who climb every day and just vary intensity.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Also losing weight while climbing is super satisfying compared to losing weight while lifting, because you actually climb harder as you get lighter instead of stalling out on all your lifts. Definitely no need to get in shape to climb, get in shape by climbing.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Bud Manstrong posted:

Supposedly Butora is good for wider feet.

They have a wide and narrow shoe, I don't have wide feet so I'm not sure how well it works for that, but the narrow shoe is by far my favorite climbing shoe ever for gym climbing. Aggressive enough to where I never feel like the shoe is the issue but still comfortable enough to wear 30+ minutes or so at a time after breaking it in. Plenty of rubber for toe hooks and the only shoe that I don't hate to wear that doesn't move at all when I have to really dig into a heel hook.

Doesn't stretch really at all lengthwise during break-in though so be aware when sizing.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Verviticus posted:

after 1.5 years or so of climbing i've finally reached the point where my fingers can handle bouldering (the only climbing i do for now) more than 2-2.5 times a week, which is great. the downside is that ive developed a dull escalating pain on the outer half of my forearm and just on the edge of my bicep. i did some research on this and i think its due to overworking the other muscles in the forearm and underusing the sore ones. thus the fix seems to be "do workouts that use those muscles". the two that seemed the easiest/most sensible are reverse wrist curls and using a rubber band to constrict against me expanding my hand

im not really a stranger to rehab per se, but this seems a little different and im wondering what my aim should be - should i be working these muscles as if i am directly trying to strengthen them (so progressive overload, pushing reps down) or should i be working them out like i rehabbed my shoulder injury (high reps, aiming for blood flow and daily use)? is there a reason to not do these exercises after each climbing session, and is this something i should be doing indefinitely, or ramping down once i get the pain under control? i can climb pretty easily through the pain and ive yet to get anything acute or chronic, is this a very bad idea or just a regular bad one

I do the exercises and stretching listed here, but none of the other stuff. I just keep climbing on it and it clears up pretty quickly in my experience, but I've been climbing for like 15 years now and will pretty much climb through any injury at this point cause I'm dumb. As to the last paragraph I do it high rep low weight, like where it's pretty comfortable at 10-12 or so reps a set and I never feel like I'm going to fail a rep or anything. Also definitely try to do the one with the hammer (or however you want to get a bar that's only weighted on one end), that makes the biggest difference in my experience.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012


Like Mahlertov Cocktail says climbing is pretty much climbing. I think the biggest trap for people who start off with bouldering is trying harder routes on toprope than they should since they can do the moves even if they don't have the endurance to actually finish the route, so they end up gassing out like 1.5 boulder problems up the wall and never force themselves to do mileage on easier routes to build up endurance. Learn to rest on the wall and rest on good holds even if you don't really need to for that particular route, it'll help with finishing routes and really help if you ever want to learn to lead.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Can anyone recommend a routine to train a 1 arm pull up? I'm tired of failing on stupid moves off jugs because I can't pull hard enough. Also how to train for those ridiculous world cup problems where you throw yourself 8 feet horizontally and then campus off a lovely hold into a jug. I'd also take a routine for replacing all the setters at my gym.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

gamera009 posted:

1-arm pull-ups are mostly neural, a lot less the strength component. If you can do weighted pull-ups, you’re probably 80% to the 1-arm. Just do assisted 1-arms with a resistance band for a while?

Should I just train weighted pull-ups then? Basically my biggest weakness right now is lock-offs and pulling into a one-arm lock-off when the motion is pretty dynamic so I can't cheat my way into position with a weird heel or high foot or whatever. I get that I can work on the technique side of moving my body into position better so it's not all pulling with my arm but at some point I watch other people do it and they just pull themselves into position and I don't have the strength to do it, and just in general my lock-off/pulling strength feels way below where it should be for what I climb. My gym had a campus competition a couple weeks back and I tried the problems afterwards and I could barely finish any intermediate problems, whereas for bouldering or sport I can generally finish all of the advanced problems and some easier open problems given time to project stuff.

I guess I could just start campusing more at the gym, but I'm having to change my schedule to have less days at the gym and less time when I am there so I'd rather get something going I can do on a hangboard or pull-up bar at home.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

gamera009 posted:

Horst has a really nice series of training videos to deal with this. You can probably find them on YouTube or Vimeo. :v:

I’ve used them and while I was doing 1-arm pull-ups at my peak I’d say that it didn’t really solve any problems. Lockoffs as a general issue should be something that is position, technique, and core strength. Just climb more roof problems. :haw:

Yeah, every time I look up stuff about how to train power I end up with "it's really just your core and technique" but mysteriously everyone who climbs V10 can trivially do a 1-armed pull up. The reason I want a routine to work on power is that "just climb more" is definitely not getting me there, I've been specifically focusing on routes I suck at that are power based and it's helping a little but it's pretty slow, I think I'm at the point where I need to climb less and train more. It's also worth noting I'm specifically interested in getting better at competition style indoor climbing, as I've probably got 3+ years before I start climbing outside again with any regularity.

This is the route I referenced in my first post, and it's supposedly similar in difficulty to plenty of routes I can climb, but I feel like I couldn't do that in a million years, even though the guy in that video isn't that far away from me in terms of what we can climb in general. Admittedly there's a lot more going on in that route than "pulling hard."

Anyway, I'll look up those Horst videos and see where I get, I'm pretty sure I have his book somewhere around here too.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Man I knew I shouldn't have mentioned grades, I'm interested in training 1-armed pull-ups for the only pure reason: to get more Instagram likes.

pr0zac posted:

I don't yet have a one arm pullup but am currently training for one also with two days a week on strength focus (on top of my climbing where I'm focused on technique). One day dedicated to volume with high rep pullup sets and one dedicated to intensity with weighted pullup sets of 3-5 (start at 3 reps at a weight, go up 2.5-5lbs when I hit 5+ reps a set). Basically applying Texas method weekly linear programming to pullups if you know weightlifting stuff. I've been increasing at least by a weighted rep a set a week which isn't bad.

Also don't forget to do pushups or dips as well. Having the balancing strength will help you get stronger and will greatly reduce your chances of getting injured.

What you're doing is basically what Horst recommends starting with in his videos until 1/3 to 1/2 additional body weight. I think the only interesting part Horst recommends is using the sling for assistance in the last little push to actually get to the 1-arm pull-up, which is a nice idea to do really offset pull-ups. I have a pulley system to remove weight on my hang board but it's kind of a pain in the rear end to set up and the sling thing looks way more convenient and something I might actually do instead of staring at my pulley and deciding to do something else.

Part of my problem I think is in the past I was always coming back to climbing after getting bored of weightlifting and then I'd get hurt climbing or burn out and go back to lifting etc. This is the first time I've gone this long (about 3 years now + maybe a year of relative inactivity prior) where I'm just climbing with maybe a little running. When I started back again I decided I was just going to climb because I enjoy that a lot more than training and I figured I was getting old and I wouldn't care how quickly I was progressing. Even ignoring my progress I'm just starting to get a little imbalanced and I need to start doing something besides just climbing.

My plan is to do core + prehab shoulder stuff/pushups + box jumps (or maybe something else, anyone got a recommendation for working your vertical I could do at home? I am awful at jumping or generating explosive power out of my legs) + progression towards 1-arm pull-ups a couple times/week. Right now I climb tues/thurs/sat/sun for ~3 hours, though I take long rests and get distracted bullshitting with people so it isn't really as long as it sounds. I have to drop down to sat/sun + 1 day and under 2 hours/day which is why I'm looking to add some other days doing things I can do at home.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Tactical Lesbian posted:

Update: yeah, 1 long session and a couple short sessions a week seems good. I definitely can tell my fingers and forearms aren't 100% until a full 48 hours after the longer weekend climb day.

From the sounds of it, I can't really do hangboarding until like a year of regular climbing?

My thinking has changed here -- I definitely want to climb more than this but I don't want to risk injury... otherwise I get to climb even less! :)

I know plenty of people who climb 4 or more days a week but none are beginners. I see lots of beginners who are at the gym a lot then dissappear, probably from injury.

If you're going to climb frequently then vary what you're doing in terms of focusing on power/endurance or at least different problems with different styles. If you can't find stuff easy enough you feel like you could climb on it forever then frequent climbing probably won't work out since it'll be basically all power/limit climbing.

It is possible to hang board early but you probably need a pulley to take weight off and a good plan, but it's boring as poo poo and not any safer than climbing probably so why not just climb instead.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

pokie posted:

I didn't know that any of my shoes were loose until I tried doing some weird v6 slopery heel hook where my foot was very high and bore a great enough load that my shoes started slipping off. This hasn't been a problem for 4 years. My shoes hurt my toes already. I don't want tighter shoes for regular climbing.

People's heels are all different shapes so it's a little hard to give specific shoe advice, basically what I do if I want a shoe that won't slip on a hard heel hook (and I'm pretty flexible so I can hook over my head and haul myself up off my foot if my shoe will stay on for it) is try on shoes and then try as hard as I possibly can to take them off pulling on the heel while curling my foot, if it moves at all it's probably not going to work. Once I find a shoe I ask the person working, if they seem knowledgeable, how much they think that shoe'll stretch or I google it until I get a good range, then size down that far. Generally getting a shoe that tight hurts to wear, like a couple attempts on a problem max at a time before I take it off hurts to wear, and digs into my achilles. Doesn't slip on heel hooks though. If you're already at the "man I have a lot of pairs of climbing shoes" stage, it's probably worth finding a pair of shoes that works for you and just wear them if you need to do a heinous heel hook, or I dunno maybe your heel's shaped different than mine and it won't be so bad.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

RabidWeasel posted:

My local gym finally finished setting up their 45 degree wall and is there anything I can do to train for this other than climbing on it and various hanging exercises? I'm pathetically bad at holding onto anything that isn't a jug big enough to get your whole fist in :saddowns:

Just climb, but focus on your feet. It doesn't seem like it initially, but overhung climbing is mostly in the legs and hips.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Incoming Chinchilla posted:

What's the opinion on taping fingers. My friend who's been climbing for years says to get some calluses on the go, but I feel like the flapper is inevitable.

This was never a problem at my old gym but my new one seems to have built their holds out of sandpaper.

Tape if you need to because of an injury, but outside of crack climbing I don't think there's any need to tape all the time just to climb. Use climb on or whatever salve, your hands will harden up. I hate climbing in tape personally so unless it's actively bleeding I probably won't tape it.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

For Evolv shoes I soak them in denture cleaner: fill bucket with warm water, put tabs in shoes put shoes in water. If that doesn't work I'm pretty sure I machine washed a pair in a cloth bag a while back and that worked pretty well. Evolv's site says you're safe to machine wash on gentle for synthetic uppers. Air dry and stuff with newspapers, mostly so they don't shrink. I don't keep my shoes in a bag ever and I've still had a few get so bad I had to buy another pair while I worked on cleaning the old one so I could wear them again.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

For what it's worth most professional climbers have a BMI from ~20-22, so you certainly want to be thin but not starving or anything. It's probably a bit inverse proportional to height, so the taller you are the lower you'd want to be since your tendons are only going to support so much, and the shorter you are the more muscle you're going to need to do deep lock-offs and other poo poo to get more reach. For example Adam Ondra's BMI is 19.9 at 6'1" and Alex Puccio's is 21.4 at 5'2".

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Hauki posted:

took my first good fall off the top of a v4 yesterday, don't think I really injured anything but definitely feeling a twinge in my anterior tibia today and one wrist is a little crunchy

small potatoes, but we've only been climbing seriously for like a month now and I felt like I was so close to sending that I didn't want to bail

lost focus for a second, calf relaxed and slipped a toehold and that was enough momentum to drop me straight down

It's worth taking the time to practice rolling out of falls if you've never done it before. Helps you not get injured and also helps climbing because once you're confident nothing bad'll happen if you miss the move you'll be able to go for things confidently.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Tactical Lesbian posted:

based on what i've seen on some climbing forums and such, doesn't basically everyone get this helplessly sucked into climbing?



like lmao this guy. "don't have kids. climb. family bad. climb good."

Pfft, nearly a decade? Youth programs start at 3 years old now, guy needs to figure poo poo out. I would kill for a 24 hour gym though so I could climb in the morning. Infants are real gains goblins.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Rime posted:

Speaking of, I'm going to be working in a remote camp 3 hours from Toronto for the next six months. How can I train without any rock or gyms so that I am not a limp noodle when I return to BC? :sigh:
Bring rings and find somewhere to hang them? Tree branch, exposed rafter, or whatever that'll support your weight is fine. Metolius rock rings or portable power grips are also pretty easy to set up most places.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

cheese eats mouse posted:

As someone with a background in circus arts training please don't hang things from tree limbs.

Are you seriously going to argue that tree limbs can't support a person's weight? People hang rings from tree limbs literally all the time. Maybe don't do a gymnastics routine on them but they're not going anywhere for your dips or pull ups or whatever.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

ShaneB posted:

My wife is getting going with climbing and inherited an old unused pair of shoes from like 10 years ago. They are solid looking beginner shoes, but are still 10 years old. Is the rubber usable? Should I like sand off an outer layer of hard stuff?

I think I've used shoes that are maybe 7 or 8 years old and don't remember the rubber being an issue, most likely she'll wear through them and get new ones long before the stickiness of the rubber is holding her back.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Hot Diggity! posted:

8 weeks isn't that long of a plateau fwiw

Climbing V7s and V8s that are actually V7s for years now crew checking in..

At 8 weeks you just need to climb more, there's no secret technique or strategy that will unlock some hidden ability. You just don't have enough mileage to be good at climbing. Basic strategies for breaking plateaus:

Wire routes you can already do so they're super smooth. Rethink how you do each move on them, make it efficient. Stop and try moves that feel awkward different ways, different feet, shift your body. You want every move to feel as easy as possible.
Do boulder problems that are near your limit multiple times in a row so you're forced to try to do the same moves when you're more tired so you find more efficient ways to do them.
You can try the various skill drills but I never liked those, they also weren't much of a thing (or I didn't know about them) when I started climbing so maybe they'd have helped me then and I just didn't know it.
Work individual hard moves on climbs you can't do, just jug up to it or whatever you need, set up for it and then try. Over and over until you get it. If you can't do it try using a slightly better foot, make one hand hold easier, can you do it now? Honestly this is totally not necessary at 8 weeks but it can be helpful.

Can also help in general to up frequency, I personally find it really hard to improve unless I climb 3+ days a week, with the best results on 4-5. Remember climbing's a skill sport and the best way to improve is focused practice on making yourself more efficient in your movement.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Awkward Davies posted:

4-5 times a week is a recipe for injury.

I'm in my late 30s and climbed 4 times a week for years, and I'm not sure I can count how many people I know who do the same. I think most pros and wannabe pros do the 5.5 days a week thing and I know plenty of those people. I've been climbing about 15 years now and I've been injured the least with increased climbing frequency, I don't think I've had a serious finger injury I couldn't climb through in like 8 years. You just have to regulate your intensity and not be dumb. Like I said it's a skill sport, the more time you put into practice the more results you'll see, don't need to be trying to push strength every session. That said I wouldn't start out climbing 5.5 days a week, you need to build up to it like most things in life, and when you're just starting it's difficult to climb at a low intensity level because everything is hard for you.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

KingColliwog posted:

I might want to give climbing a shot for the next few months. I’m guessing bouldering is the easy way to begin if you don’t have someone you go with and just want to go in, have fun for an hour or two and then leave?

Is there progress to be made climbing only once a week/learning by yourself?

Yeah, absolutely. Climbing's a good workout and a great way to stay in shape. Just don't think you're going to turn into Alex Honnold going once a week or something. I go with my cousin once a week and she's steadily improving and using it as a fun way to get in better shape, I'm sure she'll plateau eventually but she can decide how serious she is about it then. Depending on your local gym you may have access to auto belays which will let you do roped climbing with a partner, I actually think they're a gentler way to start out early on, but I prefer bouldering if I don't have a set partner because it's a much more communal activity once you start to recognize people and can work on problems together.

It depends a little on your base fitness, my cousin basically can't boulder because it's too hard and she gets scared of heights, but if you're in OK shape it's probably fine.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

KingColliwog posted:

I don’t know if people do this here, but I’ll take a chance.

I decided to start bouldering and here’s two videos from my second day. I’d like to know if there’s anything obvious I should keep in mind that I’m not doing or if there’s anything I should stop doing. Not specifically about the problem itself, but just general climbing stuff.

I’d like to develop good habits from the start. The only thing that jumps at me is that I stop looking at footholds before putting my foot on them.
The first one is a V3. I got further on other attempts, but that’s the only one I recorded. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q97MRCnKvY
This is a V2 that’s quite different so it might show Different stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C9UX9_n5lw

I'm not sure the V2 is intended to be as dynamic as you make it look. I think in general your problem is you don't really control your movements well, and end up sort of stabbing at things with your limbs. You're more guilty of that on the V3, that kind of route's going to go much better if you slow everything down and think about where you're shifting your weight as you move and place your feet. Anyway looks pretty good for only climbing I guess a couple times. You'll probably need to become more comfortable with only having 1 foot on at a time as you move up the grades and using the other to position your body/hips. You also might want to spend more time at lower grades really making your movements feel smooth instead of muscling your way through harder routes.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

I think a lot of times folks misguidedly focus on climbing statically vs. dynamically -- i.e. static being being climbing with no explosive movement vs. dynamic having more explosiveness. Just because static climbing might look "smoother" and like a more masterful demonstration of strength than dynamic climbing, doesn't mean static climbing is the right style to use all (or even most) of the time. The goal of using your lower body and climbing with more tension isn't to climb more statically -- it's to minimize unnecessary movement/effort. This might still mean you need to climb dynamically and swing around, but as you get better you'll learn to harness your momentum to your advantage rather than have it be something you have to fight against. This is my PSA against static climbing.

I'm super guilty of this and have spent the last year or 2 really forcing myself to learn to make moves dynamically because I was getting shut down on easy bullshit because it wasn't a static move. That said you can still make dynamic moves look really smooth where you jump exactly as far as you need to hit the hold with your arm bent and put your feet on the wall etc. and that gets really important eventually to not just be jumping at poo poo for the sake of it, but using your momentum to carry you through to the proper body position to hold onto whatever you're jumping to.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Partial Octopus posted:

I wanted to say thank you to whoever recommended the Scarpa Instincts for my wide rear end duck feet. They're the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn and fit my feet perfectly.

I also wanted to note that in just two weeks the theraband flex bar fixed my crippling tennis elbow. Can't recommend it enough.

What color did you get?

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Sab669 posted:

Still hadn't gotten a shipping tracker from TheraBand; finally called them this morning... and their phone system doesn't work? Shot them an email and they got back to me pretty quickly. Turns out the one I ordered was out of stock which their website didn't indicate (or I missed it :downs:), they apologized and said they'll send me a "clinical flexbar, it is the same thing but packaged differently"... and they're overnighting it to me, which is very cool.

Also ordered some of those little finger resistance bands off Amazon as they were only $10. gently caress those dumb V3's I can't do yet, gonna eat 'em for breakfast in a few weeks :getin:

I might try to film myself as some of you suggested, but most of the problems I'm working on are completely surrounded by padding and other walls - no where to set up my small tripod & camera that wouldn't get knocked over as people walk around.

I realize we're all goons in here, but you could just ask someone to film you. Plenty of people I don't know well have asked me to do that before and it's fine, the vast majority of my(and most people's) time at a climbing gym is just sitting there watching people climb anyway.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Happiness Commando posted:

It looks to me like you need to heel hook the leftmost part of the volume near the point and layback while getting your right foot on the chip at the center of the bottom edge. Try moving your right foot down to the starting foot chip to establish the left foot, then go right foot on the volume chip?

It's possible I'm reading that completely wrong.

Edit: missed the video. I think I'm reading it correctly.

I think this is right, the hold at the top is angled that way because eventually you'll be walking up the left side of the volume holding that with your right until you're kind of mantling above it then you either awkwardly dyno for the finish or cross into the arete while standing on the volume and then work up to the finish, hard to tell how well the arete will work from the angle of the video, there's a ton of chalk on it though so probably fine.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

I guess it depends on what you're training for, if you want to get good at comp style boulders unless you write "please randomly match this hold for 3 seconds" in the middle of the problem there's no way to force a comp style ending except at the end, and a lot of them are sketchy as gently caress. How else are you going to practice it?

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

rest his guts posted:

That's uhh.. awful. Do you at least have some sort of board or system wall?

Since this sounds like my gym, I think you're misunderstanding. Any given problem is up 6 weeks, but there are new problems every week since they set a couple sections each week and rotate through the whole gym every 6 or 7 weeks, I think it's pretty standard.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Kasumeat posted:

Smart gyms use a grading system but don't call them V-grades so there isn't arguing over grading.

Slightly related aside: Just having moved to Australia, bouldering grading is weird. Every gym I've climbed at so far uses hold colour to determine difficulty and they'll have a range, like all blue holds are for problems V2-4, rather than marking difficulty with tape colour or a tag. I find it pretty stupid because often it means you're climbing on similar holds for every single problem, especially at lower-budget gyms that can't afford massive numbers of holds in every colour. It's also kinda annoying because there's often a huge range of difficulty, such as one colour representing v3-6 for example. One could argue that grades don't really matter, but if I'm failing on a V3 I know my beta is bad, whereas on a V6 I know it's beyond my ability, and it's nice to know which.

This is how the gyms in Dallas do it.There're generally 3 overlapping colors worth hopping on for people who aren't complete beginners or elites and some times you flash and some times you can't pull off the ground for problems the same color right next to each other. I think it helps the setters because it gives them an easy out when people bitch about grading inaccuracies, and gets people to try stuff they wouldn't otherwise because it's one of the colors they do. It can make it hard to judge progress though.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Zephro posted:

So I wanted to try to master muscle-ups (for fun, not necessarily for relevance to climbing though I guess they help with mantling a bit). I think I'd like to try using one of those Theraband type things to do assisted reps while I work up to a full-on muscleup. The therabands themselves seem like they're a little short and possibly not heavy enough to work wrapped around a pullup bar, though. Can anyone recommend some specific product that might do the trick?

Having recently worked up to a ring muscle up, I don't think it's worth using banded assistance. Find something to stand on and jump into the muscle-up to work the transition, jump less or lower the thing you're standing on to increase the difficulty and focus on chest to bar pull ups to build explosiveness. The muscle-up's a skill and you'll see the most benefit from working it without direct assistance IMO. You can google baby muscle-ups for a bunch of examples of people using that method.

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M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Zephro posted:

Thanks. If there's a way to do it without gear, even better. The jumping muscle-ups sound like a good idea, I might try them. My local gym has a bunch of boxes that would be perfect for that.

I'm guessing the hardest bit is going to be the transition from a low jump to doing it from a dead-hang, though, right? It feels like even a small amount of momentum would make things dramatically easier.

Yeah, it's easier to adjust difficulty on the rings since you can adjust the height on them a lot easier than a bar, but basically I would do reps where I would curl my toes underneath myself with my knees bent a little so I couldn't really push much, but enough to get through the transition. That plus weighted pull-ups eventually got me to the full muscle-up. I think developing the explosiveness did end up helping my climbing, although actually working for it left me feeling weak pretty much every time I went to climb, and I had a bout of climber's elbow because 3 ring workouts a week + 2 climbing days is probably not the best plan for elbow health.

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