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Southern Heel posted:I've just finished a two day course and I'm familiar with the safety rules. We spent a few hours on technique, but could I get some clarification please? My trainer suggested that climbing with straight arms and your butt low was better because you're not expending any energy holding your upper body in a given position. This makes sense objectively, but realistically I can't see how it works while actually climbing - surely the majority of the time you're either standing on a hold and moving your arms or feet, or you're ascending/traversing by using your legs (and so you're pushing up along your centre of gravity?) You do that when looking for a new hold. If you've got a route plan perfectly memorized, you are right, you won't use that bit of advice. If you aren't a route-planning robot, you'll use it constantly.
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Oct 9, 2013 12:05
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 20:31 |
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Ondra is a monster.
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Aug 23, 2014 20:35
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I was a very poor climber, but starting lifting and developing strength and power made me surprisingly good at boulders (being able to finish a moderate route vs. not being able to do an easy-moderate boulder problem), but didn't help my top roping that much. So in my experience, bouldering is very power focused and any route not for babies will have you fight for every hold to some degree. Top roping is more about avoiding getting pumped and conserving energy. Of course, Ondra won the bouldering championships and is actually a lead climber so ymmv dex_sda fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Aug 28, 2014 |
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Aug 28, 2014 19:30
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Any good resources on accessory strength training to improve bouldering specifically?
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Aug 31, 2014 14:48
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ConspicuousEvil posted:What do you mean by accessory strength? I'm looking to add accessory exercises to my 3xweek lifting to help my occassional bouldering. I wanna keep focusing on lifting, but as long as I'm in a gym, I want to add some extra work. I would just boulder more often, but my schedule prohibits it. e; I'll figure out fitting it into the program for adequate recovery on my own, I'm just wondering if there's a good resource for what kind of work would help dex_sda fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 16:12
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benwards posted:To be honest, the single best accessory exercise I've found for climbing is hanging leg lifts and other core strengtheners, as ConspicuousEvil suggests. I do dead hang pullups and chins already, farmer's walks and static holds for grip, and planks for core. I'll add toes-to-bar and leg lifts. Thanks
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Sep 3, 2014 08:02
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Siamang posted:Static barbell/dumbbell holds? If so, consider switching to plate holds, either with a fat bumper plate or a pair of metal plates with the smooth side facing outwards. The pinch grip used in those has had better carryover to bouldering for me. Barbell, to finish out my heavy deadlift day. Plate holds sound like an excellent idea.
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Sep 3, 2014 13:18
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chami posted:
keep care of your calluses, jesus. Let it heal up. It might end up peeling off, if it does, you can speed up the initial stage of healing if you use an oitment like Solcoseryl. In case that's unavailable under that brand name, it's a protein-free hemodialysate of calves blood ointment and aside from that being loving metal, the speed at which it heals nasty chafes is nothing short of magical. I've had torn-off skin the size of half a penny heal up in two days of applying it. Like, right to the meat, and it was basically only missing the epidermis after two days. If you have such a deep skin injury and can find it, I recommend it.
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Sep 7, 2014 15:41
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Claes Oldenburger posted:I was JUST reading about this stuff and you're right, it sounds like straight wizard ointment. Now I just have to find some in Vancouver... Oh, it is. The info booklet even says it's indicated for all kinds of burns, including radiation burns, and I believe it.
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Sep 9, 2014 23:09
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In general, a daily pass at most gyms is basically a thing you do when you want to go to a new gym and want to test the water first. Memberships usually pay off after 3-5 visits per month.
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Jan 11, 2015 21:38
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Adam Ondra climbed a 9c. What a beast.
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Sep 7, 2017 21:54
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I found a nice quarry rock formation nearby; it is shined on during winter and it has a route. The route is an 80 meter traverse that can be soloed without protection, as it's less than a foot off the ground. Graded 7a, but it has been very worn since. It's a classic in the mountaineering community and has been the way people stayed in shape before gyms, and is still used for that. Anyway since I can literally pop there on my way home from work or indeed during a work break, here are my questions 1) the grade is far above my ability, maybe by whole 3-4 grade. However, that's the whole climb. Is it a decent idea to keep coming there and just doing a few tries (15-20 mins of climbing) when weather permits and figure it out little by little, starting from a point where I am capable of doing some starting moves and trying to get farther each time? Or too little time spent climbing and too far out my 'zone'? 2) the rock is very worn by literal generations of climbers, very slick footholds. Which is a problem with my poor footwork. Makes the climb very challenging. Still worth it? Any tips? I think it's way cooler than crushing plastic, so if I can incorporate it as a tool that would be sick. dex_sda fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Sep 19, 2023 |
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Sep 19, 2023 12:07
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vonnegutt posted:I don't see any harm in at least trying it. As you said, it's a foot off the ground. If you can't do a single move it won't be worth much, but doing small sections and linking them sounds like excellent training. Rock offers infinitely more variation than plastic. I don't really plan to do much outdoors but if I do, it'd be this exact rock type (limestone) as it's common in the area. For me it's appealing also because it seems to force much better footwork. I'm very strong from non-climbing pursuits so when I crush plastic I can just pull on it hard and it works - except that's not good for tendons as I tend to deathcrimp to use my strength and I don't learn good technique. This forces me to grab good as there's no real places to crimp, forces me to use poor footholds, and theres route reading too. Only disadvantage is that I feel quite out of my depth as everyone else that comes there crushes the route lol. dex_sda fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Sep 19, 2023 |
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Sep 19, 2023 14:05
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Mostly I'm just curious if climbers think this 'gonna pop there for 25 mins of climbing and try to extend lines' approach makes sense. I think it would be beneficial to grease the groove but my area of expertise is regimented strength training, not a deeply creative and technical sport like climbing.
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Sep 19, 2023 14:16
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Endjinneer posted:This is the redpoint ethic and it's a perfectly valid way of going at something that's basically a sport route, especially graded 7a. Learn the moves, work sections, then go for it end to end. It is way beyond worn, the butter like quality is considered a feature. Nobody cares at this point. I am not kidding that probably hundreds of climbers used this one climb as their winter gym. (Sun facing, right next to the city, a ridiculously long real rock safe solo line)
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Sep 20, 2023 09:26
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Went there today, I strung together a much longer line and my footwork has much improved. Feels like a good place to train for sure. 
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Sep 21, 2023 15:41
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I'm continuing to go to that difficult wall you can solo and it is excellent training. Sessions are quick because it's hard, but my finger strength is increasing fast without me doing anything to my pulleys because there's far less crimping (though not none). My footwork and body positioning needs to be absolutely ace and I've made significant progress actually implementing three points of contact and straight arms and deadpointing, since I can't rely on my strength the way I can when I pull plastic in the gym. I've strung together about 15 meters combined on some points of the traverse. It will likely take me very much longer to get the route, and it is 3 grades beyond my ability, but it's way more fun than any artificial gym I've been in.
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Oct 7, 2023 09:05
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weather's poo poo so i went to the climbing gym instead of the superhard traverse on real rock. flashed two routes above my previous PR grade L M A O.
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Oct 9, 2023 17:02
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Counterpoint: you're not going as hard as Tommy. Don't fool yourself. You'll be fine. Hangboard! Do it! Counter-counterpoint: What's too hard for Tommy and what's too hard for Joe Schmoe are drastically different things
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Nov 13, 2023 22:27
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i keep going to the traverse 7a that you can climb without protection. I'm almost finished with the first pitch, once I am it will be a 6c in actual rock in the bag.
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Mar 23, 2024 15:22
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 20:31 |
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gently caress yeah I got the first pitch done and got halfway through the second (which is somewhat easier). crux pitches are gonna be a hoot, though...
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Mar 26, 2024 20:49
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