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burns_2k
Oct 17, 2012

CoasterMaster posted:

Anyway, once I feel confident leading, is there anything else I need to know before going outside to a real rock?
The only other thing that springs to mind is you need to learn how to lower off. Usually in a gym you will climb to a pain of screw gates you clip before lowering off. Out doors you will usually need to clip into a pair of bolts with a sling. You then thread the bolts before lowering off. Its worth watching a video or two so you know what to do before you get there!

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burns_2k
Oct 17, 2012
I might be worth looking at getting a clip stick? Never tried one myself but I've watched people using them and they look handy for that kind of situation.

burns_2k
Oct 17, 2012

RabidWeasel posted:

This is also something I've been experimenting with but I don't think I'm bold enough to try it with my eyes closed! Thanks for the suggestion though :)

Part of the issue is that they have a bunch of really easy V0s and V1s set and then very little variation in terms of difficulty until some fairly nasty V4-6s so I'll try and see if I can add just 1 or 2 holds to some of the badass problems to dial them down a bit.

The book Climbing Games by Paul Smith has some ways to add variety to a limited set of routes. Most are designed to make you concentrate on certain aspects of you technique, things like reaching for a hold then pausing for 3 seconds before holding it, doing a route with corks balance don the holds and knocking them off. The games are probably aimed at kids but it adds some variety to a small bouldering wall!

burns_2k
Oct 17, 2012
Have you tried these guys? In the EU at least and it looks cheaper than that from what little I know about bolting. http://www.bolt-products.com/ProtectionBolts.htm

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