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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:Also clean your shoes, don't be that guy who puts dirty shoes on the rock and polishes it to glass. I did an 8a in france where I could see my face in the holds. Seriously? How is an 8a getting so much action that it wears out? I've climbed plenty of polished 5.9s, but I feel like a 13b just isn't going to get the traffic to be polished, since there are not that many people who can even climb it.
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Jul 30, 2013 00:37
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guppy posted:I was told that once you move yourself up a grade in top-roped clmbing you should expect to be there for a couple months climbing 1-2x a week. What should I be expecting from bouldering? Similarly slow progress. You'll probably make some relatively quick progress over the first few months, then it will slow down a lot.
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Jul 30, 2013 18:51
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gamera009 posted:Went climbing with modig at Satellites today and promptly embarrassed myself.  He looked like he knew what he was doing, so I stole his beta and sent the problem.
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Aug 5, 2013 14:43
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Year of the Monkey posted:
It looks like all the upper holds will be useless because your wrists will sit on the giant protruding hangboard.
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Aug 7, 2013 14:47
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spandexcajun posted:
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Aug 13, 2013 15:18
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gamera009 posted:
I clicked through for more beta, but all I got was some fool fishing.
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Aug 16, 2013 16:27
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Discomancer posted:You see a lot of climbers doing this, but it's not very good technique--the goal should be to grab the hold the right way the first time. If you're doing a lot of repositioning to get the right spot, you'll tire yourself out a lot quicker. Approaching the hold slower/more static until you have the move down right will help build up the muscle memory here, and help sequence into the next move. Great practice for this is to keep doing a route and not move your hands once they're on a hold. You'll see that going from one move into the next is a lot smoother because you aren't stopping to adjust between handholds. Yeah I used to readjust a lot, I think it's a phase. Well my pulley tendon is finally healed up, and I'm climbing as hard as ever, and now my elbow tendonitis is coming back. Woo. I think I'm going to have to back off for a while and hope it settles down. The nice thing about the injuries I've gotten is that I can usually climb easier stuff without aggravating them, so as long as I just go outside and climb moderate trad or easier sport I can keep climbing.
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Aug 24, 2013 00:20
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Discomancer posted:Do you do dips or any tricep work? I find adding a few sets of those after climbing helps a lot when my elbows start aching. I've done some tricep stuff on and off, and its never been clear if it was helping or not. I might start trying again. Never really did dips.
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Aug 24, 2013 01:52
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mediadave posted:I've been climbing for about six months, at my local climbing wall (The castle, in North London http://www.castle-climbing.co.uk/ ) I know most of my climbing peeps from work. But most gyms have somewhere you can sign up for climbing partners. I met one of my first local partners on mountainproject, I'm sure there is something similar in the UK, a regional climbing forum. I know some people who go with meetup.com groups. There is something they call "rope up" at my gym, where you show up and there will be an employee to belay you, but then they form you into groups of two once there is more than one or two people. It's easier to meet people at the gym bouldering, since it's a bit more social. It's also a great way to push your skills. I'm not sure about the UK rating system or gym cultures, but you in the US you would be able to do the first one or two bouldering grades with some difficulty. You can watch people on problems you struggle with, or just up ask someone better than you for beta.
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Aug 26, 2013 01:52
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mediadave posted:Also, does anyone have any advice on learning to fall, or more accurately learning to be ok with the potential of falling? I have realised I am very adverse to falling, and will often give up a route rather than attempt a move I think I'll fall on. It's not that I don't trust my belaying partner - he's definitely good at that (though I do have a bit of paranoia of the gear, after an incident near when I started - that was my own fault though.). It's just that I never developed that when I was learning the basics, and well it's quite a few months later now. Basically you need to fall, so that you experience that it is safe, and it is something you feel, rather than something you think about. Gym Toprope? Before you start up do a complete gear check, not just visual. So have your belayer take up all the slack and sit in your harness. Get your complete body weight on the harness + rope. Climb one or two moves if necessary. Then climb up 10 feet and let go. Just pick a point before you start, climb to that point, and let go. Do that once or twice per day, it's fine to take it slow. If is low enough, you'd be fine even without the rope. Later add this in, when you get to the top, don't give your belayer time to take in all the slack, just let go. (Give belayer a courtesy heads up before you start the climb). Also try no take on toprope, just tell your belayer not to take even if you ask. They'll leave a few feet of slack, so any time you want to rest, you'll have to take a little fall. Gym Lead? This was much harder for me. Same complete gear check, just clip the first bolt first. Once you clip the top, drop. (Again, heads up to belayer) I have found climbing when I'm really tired to help sometimes, I've just felt too tired to care that I was going to fall. I doubt that will work for you, but pay attention to your mood, and take advantage of any time you aren't scared of falling to push it until you do. A friend of mine will occasionally climb, get like 3 bolts clipped, then start climbing to the next bolt and dropping. Then climb, clip that bolt, and climb to the next bolt, and drop. Or when you get tired and call for a take, just drop as soon as you say take., without down climbing. Lead only. Just decide that you're either going to lead or not climb it for a while.
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Aug 26, 2013 02:05
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Went to the Reel Rock opening last night. I feel like some of the energy from earlier years was missing, but it was still pretty cool. Movies include: Making fun of Daniel Woods vs some badass japanese climber I'm too young to have idolized. Then they go climb together. Funny but I felt like the mentorship part of the story was forced, or just not actually shown very well. British climbers are loving insane. They have managed to raise a young blond woman who competes for the top levels of insanity. This was probably my favorite of the movies. Extended preview for a bigger documentary about the "Stone Masters" period of climbing in Yosemite. Includes them looting a crashed drug plane and making mad money. Ueli Steck got beat up on Everest. There is a movie about it, since they were planning to make a movie about him doing the climb he was going to do. Ueli's partner was a crazy italian dude. They don't talk about it much, it's pretty clear the Sherpa are kind of exploited, or at least aren't really treated as equals to the rich(er) foreign climbing guides.
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Sep 20, 2013 16:39
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Atomic Hotdog posted:Anyone planning on going to 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell? I'm volunteering for the competition but hoping to get my first outdoor 5.12 after. STOKED. Too far of a drive. I bet it would be tons of fun.
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Sep 22, 2013 04:42
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edit: nm
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Sep 25, 2013 03:47
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Did Vedauwoo last weekend. It totally lived up to being old school, hard, full of cracks, and where bolt are necessary, they are few and far between. What I didn't expect was the 50 mph wind. It was definitely a test of my outdoor clothes to stay warm and still be able to climb. Mostly we found climbs that were pretty well sheltered. But my friend Mike did try to climb a 5.6 that had the full brunt of the wind. He bailed off once he realized how bad it was going to be. Just a few feet away on the walk out we were getting almost knocked over, so I'm sure it was pretty intense on lead. Also the ratings were seemed inconsistent on the stuff we climbed. 5.6 varied from cruiser seam on low angle slab to offwidth next to steep slab. 5.9 varied from pretty hard with lots of hard offwidth, to really hard overhung hand crack (harder than curving crack at castle rock, which is pretty hard 5.9 crack I think). I want to go back, but I think I should probably practice my crack climbing a bit more first.
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Oct 1, 2013 03:01
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So I went to a Physical Therapist (after searching for one that doesn't offer any alternative medicine), and apparently my quads are "special" and laughable. As in the therapist actually laughed during some of the exam. They're both inflexible (legs at 50 degrees up when lying on my back, vs 80 for normal) and weak (I can't resist pushing down on my ankles with legs lifted). Apparently this is the cause of my knee pain on any extended hikes, and the therapist thinks a month or so of work should help a lot. So maybe I won't have to carry hiking poles on climbing approaches anymore. Also she checked out my elbow, which hurts while climbing, and couldn't find any problems. So I'm just going to climb as normal, and if it hurts I can have her look at it at one of my regular appointments. TLDR; Hopefully soon I'll have fewer excuses when I don't want to do a 4 hour approach.
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Oct 2, 2013 18:31
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armorer posted:From my experience a lot of climbers don't like slab. The biggest issue with it is that if you are lead climbing, falls are always unpleasant because you slide against the rock the whole way down. That said, there is a place a few hours from me that has a bunch of bolted slab routes and it can be fun from time to time. Your observations are spot on though, slab climbs (particularly in the higher grades) generally require a lot of precarious balance and smearing. You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall?
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Oct 6, 2013 15:52
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I'm thinking Penitente Canyon over Veteran's Day weekend. I just bought a new guide book for bouldering in the front range, so probably some more exploring of bouldering areas. I've been happy with Movement.
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Oct 10, 2013 02:23
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ZeroDays posted:The thing that strikes me about auto-belays is that the worst accidents I ever hear of are people forgetting to fasten themselves to them and decking hard. You can't replace a human who can check your poo poo. Yes you can. Just drop off 5 feet up before you go up 15.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:11
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Tarnien posted:Anyone have any recommendations for a comfortable baselayer/thermal for climbing? Going to be in Smith/Bishop a lot this Winter and will be climbing in the 20's frequently. Was thinking something like this? Anyone have any suggestions? Can't got wrong with an R1 Hoody. It's comfy as a base or over a light t-shirt. Doesn't really fit over a long sleeve shirt. Won't help with wind. Fit's under other things really well since it's a snug fit, but stretchy so it moves with you. I'm also a fan of this, which is closer to what you linked, though lighter.
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Nov 29, 2013 17:07
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French Canadian posted:My non-scientific observation suggests that gyms with pads that need to be moved around create more diligent outdoor boulderers, such that they are used to spotting and getting pads in the right place. At my gym, which has a fully padded floor, people rarely spot you unless you ask. I definitely noticed a paradigm shift when said gym opened shop, because a majority of us moved from an older gym with pads, and afterwards it was pretty obvious that we got a little lazy about spotting and pad placement when climbing outdoors. This is probably true, but I love the fully padded floors. So easy to just climb anything.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:08
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I'm going into the year injured, so my goal is just to be able to climb in the gym regularly at some point. But I want to give an idea for a fun and totally doable goal that I did two years ago: Climb outside every month of the year.
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Dec 31, 2013 04:04
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Sigmund Fraud posted:No climbing vacation for me and my main climbing buddy this semester due to incompatible schedules. Owens River Gorge. And if you are already at Owens, you have to at least stop in Bishop and visit the Buttermilks, even if you don't have pads you just need to see it. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/owens-river-gorge/105843226
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Jan 21, 2014 00:51
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Tarnien posted:And this is where the 2 schools of thought regarding climbing injuries come in. Climbing through the pain is never a good idea at first, but if it's not a serious injury (ie, you didn't feel a pop or aren't severely handicapped when it comes to normal daily activities), then I personally believe that any more than a week off isn't going to do you any good. It's the same theory that doctors used to apply to back and shoulder injuries -- people were instructed to avoid stressful activity after an injury for as long as it took to feel "better," but it turned out that this simply prolonged the injuries and slowed recovery. Nowadays, back and shoulder injuries are pushed into rehab as soon as possible, with better outcomes. Time is a necessary component, but bloodflow is what ultimately leads to full recovery, and you're not going to get bloodflow without using the muscles/tendons. I took off more than a year waiting for a finger tendon injury to heal. I've only had success with time off (I usually do more than 1 week, like 2-3, but apparently shorter works for Tarnien, I've not really tried shorter) followed by a slow return to climbing. I usually climb 3 days a week, so what I'll do is go back and day 1 is 10a and easier. Day 2 is 10b, Day3 is 10c, etc until I get up to 12a which is about where I top out. During the return I take the time to work on using an open grip, and avoid shock loading my fingers, and there should be little to no pain. This approach hasn't worked as well with my elbows, so I'm still figuring those out. Also climbing outside is a good way to recover, since climbing below your max outside is way more fun than doing it inside. Learning to trad climb was my recovery plan one year as well.
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Jan 22, 2014 19:06
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Rehab exercises, taping it, Voltaren gel and avoid max strength overhanging moves for a while seem to have cured my chronic bicep tendinitis. I believe the biggest contributors have been the rubber band exercises. Haven't felt any pain or the need to tape for two weeks now. Guess I should also start lifting weights to occasionally work the antagonist muscles as well. I've been doing some "wrist eccentric" exercises with weights, and taking time off. What rubber band exercises are you doing? There is a youtube channel from 919 clinic is climber injury focused that I've been looking at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HkjuR42vzk
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Jan 23, 2014 19:01
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gamera009 posted:Finally managed my first 5.12 on lead. Indoors, but this felt much much harder than anything I'd ever done outside, so I'll buy it. Absolutely wiped after the effort. Nice job!
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Feb 1, 2014 21:35
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foolish_fool posted:I tried out the bouldering section of the local gym today and whoa it feels so much harder than normal top-rope stuff. Probably mostly that the skillset is different and I've been pretty sporadic recently, but even the easiest grades are quite a challenge. Thats expected. Boulder grades start harder and go up faster. Bouldering grades are often based on the single hardest move, whereas roped grades usually are based on some overall sense of difficulty combining hard moves and endurance (ie the single hardest move is a lot easier than the grade suggests). So its very easy to get into moves way harder than anything you've done when you start bouldering.
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Feb 6, 2014 17:28
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Since we're on finger chat, any thoughts on how to prep your fingers/elbows for returning to harder climbing. I could climb like 12a in the gym pretty reliably, then I haven't climbed for like 2 months and want to ease back in. I'm trying to move up the grades slowly (which is easy at first since I'm tired after a 10a right now, but will get harder), but it wouldn't be crazy to do some other prep.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:57
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deck posted:Now in video form: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk2Eq7lFYlQ I like to think that the person in orange who falls in the background at the end just fell off because they mind was blown.
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Mar 8, 2014 00:11
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For tennis elbow check out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HkjuR42vzk Also search for "thera bar", which lets you do the same basic exercise but its easier to do it in the car or other places where the weights are kind of a pain.
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Mar 10, 2014 15:47
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Puseklepp posted:Wouldn't it be better to use the exercise in their video for tennis elbow, rather than golfer's elbow, which you linked? Mine seems to be a mix of what he describes as golfers and tennis elbow. A PT seems like a solid bet. Sorry for linking the wrong video, you seem to have found the right one as well.
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Mar 10, 2014 21:39
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Baldbeard posted:Awesome! Yeah my first session was just like that, very exciting. The good news is your forearms only hurt like that for the first few sessions generally, and your grip is almost positively just fine. Couple more sessions and you will be able to focus more on the fun stuff. I sort of miss the days when one session would leave me so worked that I was sore all over, but yes it does pass.
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Mar 11, 2014 01:37
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Papercut posted:What I do is climb harder and harder routes until I hurt myself so badly that I need to take 6 months off (usually around V5). Then I do other stuff for half a year. Repeat ad nauseam. Yep. Sometimes I mix in some easy trad/alpine routes in the downtime.
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Mar 12, 2014 21:26
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tynam posted:Do you have pictures of the rockwall by any chance? I'm genuinely curious to see what people are able to climb barefoot. It was like 6 years ago, but I'm pretty sure I lead Passing Lane with no shoes on because I forgot my shoes. Whatever it was, it was super juggy and I was always able to use a lot of opposition to keep pressure on my feet.
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Apr 22, 2014 01:20
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spwrozek posted:Prana Zion pants and shorts. The pants are awesome. Shorts are great when it is 95 out. Prana Zion Capri pants. Best of both worlds. Also any random zipoff pants works pretty good too.
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May 13, 2014 03:22
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Speleothing posted:You mean the "Nemesis Knicker"? If wearing zipoffs is wrong, I don't want to be right.
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May 13, 2014 16:02
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My helmet saved my life on sunday Well not my helmet, and not my life. But that was the title. Stay safe.
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May 29, 2014 01:05
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Discomancer posted:I've always been lax about helmets, but that's a pretty sobering reminder--that's not some backwater crag either, Animal World sees pretty heavy use. Yeah and I've actually climbed with the guy who posed it, and climbed at Animal World. That's about as close to home as it gets. I'm fairly good about wearing my helmet, mostly because my wife gets mad if I don't, but I kind of want to get one of those foam helmet with better side protection now.
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May 29, 2014 01:23
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gamera009 posted:Welp. 
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Jun 5, 2014 19:50
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I've only done one Canyoneering trip, and it was very fun. We went to the Poison Springs area in Utah and did a few dry canyons There is actually a pretty nice Canyon right next to my in-law's house in southern California that I want to do next time we're there in the summer, but I've never done a wet canyon before, and want to practice/learn how to rappel in a waterfall first. I'm not sure about the Canyon options in Colorado, but I don't think they are up to the Arizona/Utah level and I don't like driving to Utah for a weekend. I've always liked rock hopping my way up and down rivers, which is sort of canyoneering light. Your Grand Canyon video looked pretty fun.
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Jun 21, 2014 02:52
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gamera009 posted:I might have Sunday until 1pm free. Morning bouldering is good bouldering. Morning outside is outside without rain and lightning, usually.
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Jul 17, 2014 00:16
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