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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I might want to give climbing a shot for the next few months. I’m guessing bouldering is the easy way to begin if you don’t have someone you go with and just want to go in, have fun for an hour or two and then leave?

Is there progress to be made climbing only once a week/learning by yourself?

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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

M. Night Skymall posted:

Yeah, absolutely. Climbing's a good workout and a great way to stay in shape. Just don't think you're going to turn into Alex Honnold going once a week or something. I go with my cousin once a week and she's steadily improving and using it as a fun way to get in better shape, I'm sure she'll plateau eventually but she can decide how serious she is about it then. Depending on your local gym you may have access to auto belays which will let you do roped climbing with a partner, I actually think they're a gentler way to start out early on, but I prefer bouldering if I don't have a set partner because it's a much more communal activity once you start to recognize people and can work on problems together.

It depends a little on your base fitness, my cousin basically can't boulder because it's too hard and she gets scared of heights, but if you're in OK shape it's probably fine.

Cool, might hit the nearest gym to give it a shot and make sure the price/schedule works for me. I’m in pretty good shape and relatively lean, can do more than 10 strict pull-ups, I have decent grip strength since I’m a judo guy and pretty good flexibility. Aside from finger strength I think I’m probably in a pretty good shape for a potential beginner.

I don’t have much expectations, just don’t want to get in and realize that 1x a week means I’ll always do the same thing every week. I ask because in judo/bjj 1x a week really isn’t enough to make any real progress.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

RabidWeasel posted:

You might struggle to develop skills quickly only doing 1 session a week but in terms of pure fitness it sounds like you could probably be climbing some pretty good poo poo if you're a fast learner. I've been climbing for several years now and can't do 10 consecutive pull ups but I'm still able to climb 7a indoors.

In this sort of situation you'd probably really benefit from finding someone to give you advice since you're a bit of an outlier.

Thx. Went yesterday for the first time and I had a blast. I managed to get through stuff that I never thought I could do (3 V2 with stupid overhangs that I thought were reserved for higher difficulties) and could probably have done more of them, but my hands died. I thought my grip would be the thing giving out, but sheer abrasion on my hands was the limiting factor for me.

Also seeing people that didn’t look particularly fit do stuff that was super impressive to my newbie eye was pretty drat cool. I think I’ll give climbing a fair shot

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Decided to take the plunge and buy shoes. After trying the cheaper models I found them all pretty uncomfortable so I ended up buying the Force V. Spent a bit more than I Would have liked, but I figure 50$ won't make much of a difference in the end and once I resole them the difference in price will be even less. Anyway I'm guessing being comfortable is pretty important if I'm going to stick with this. I just hope they don't stretch too much cause they are as tight as I could possibly comfortably wear (toes curled, but somehow not painfully squished like I was in Defy's)

Visited a new gym and it's amazingly cheap while being pretty cool and less than a 3 minutes walk from my place, can't believe I didn't know they existed. They even have some funky Ninja Warrior stuff which might be fun to try.

Is there an approved/smart warm-up and/or preventive exercises I should start doing? I already weightlift several times a week and wouldn't mind adding 10 minutes of stuff. Especially since I'll probably be cutting most/all grip stuff I do. I don't plan on doing any specific strength exercises or anything, but if there's smart stuff I could do to prevent being injured I'd be all for it.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I don’t know if people do this here, but I’ll take a chance.

I decided to start bouldering and here’s two videos from my second day. I’d like to know if there’s anything obvious I should keep in mind that I’m not doing or if there’s anything I should stop doing. Not specifically about the problem itself, but just general climbing stuff.

I’d like to develop good habits from the start. The only thing that jumps at me is that I stop looking at footholds before putting my foot on them.
The first one is a V3. I got further on other attempts, but that’s the only one I recorded. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q97MRCnKvY
This is a V2 that’s quite different so it might show Different stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C9UX9_n5lw

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Feb 20, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Wow, really wasn’t expecting that many answers thanks guys.

Just to clarify, I did every single v0 and v1 in the gym before going to v2s and did most of these before starting trying v3s that looked fun and not impossible.

I thought you were supposed to try and have both feet on the wall as much as possible, thanks to whoever said to get comfortable having only one foot and using the other to get closer to the wall, that helped a bunch.

I just finished my third climbing day at a different bouldering only gym that is insanely awesome so I couldn’t try the specific suggestions you guys gave me for the problems I shared, but the underlying ideas made some things wayyyyy easier.

I tried to be more static in easier climbs. Also focused on using my legs more/not launching myself from my arms which is pretty hard to do for some reason, will keep practicing.

. Also overhangs are evil. Have trouble with the v1s on steep overhangs but flashed most v2 that were more vertical.

I’ll post more videos in a few weeks when I feel like my technique improved to get some more feedback.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Feb 22, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

armorer posted:

For the most part on 0s and 1s, that is true. Once you get into harder routes you'll find that being able to position your center of gravity under key holds is what matters, and that will require moving your feet around. When you see someone flagging a foot off to one side or another rather than putting it on a hold, that's what's going on. This is the sort of thing that you get an intuitive feel for if you climb enough, but you can get some immediate understanding of if you work with a stronger boulderer on some problems near your limit.

On overhangs, the vast majority of the time, the problem new climbers have is footwork. You need to do more than put your foot on any given hold - you need to actively press your foot against it. That action will initiate some tension in your core. In an overhang, you need to transfer as much weight to your feet as you can or else your arms will get tired very quickly. Unlike vertical climbs where gravity transfers weight to your feet by simply standing on a hold, you need to actively push against it in a roof.

That’s why I really enjoyed watching good climbers today. Seeing how they went up some stuff and trying to copy some of the moves made some hard climb really easy. The place I went before was almost empty and this other gym has a lot more people which I enjoy.

That makes sense for overhangs, I was sort of trying to find ways to push down on them but that’s pretty dumb when I think about it. I tried heel hooks that made no sense because that’s the only thing that sort of worked. I’ll try actively pushing on them next time once my hands are healed

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

armorer posted:

Lie down on the ground on your back with the ball of one foot against a wall and your knee slightly bent. Lift your head just enough that you can look at your toes, and press against the wall with your toes like you are trying to move yourself across the floor. Pay attention to your core as you do this, it will instantly tense up as you press with your foot.

That is the feeling of core tension you should feel, and sort of pressure that you typically should apply, to holds in a roof problem. In addition on some of them it will benefit you more if you can get the toe of your shoe into the hold and press down while pressing out. It will stabilize you a lot in a roof and take some weight off your arms.

Thank you, made the overhang I was struggling with the other day surprisingly easy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5n_vpO4RYU

My foot slips a few time and it looks like I’m on the ball of my foot when it does. Does that mean I should try to use only my big toes on holds or is it just my foot placement that is off?

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I’m really loving all the insight I’m getting, thanks a lot. I’m going back tomorrow and il read what you said before doing it again and try to test your ideas.

Doing the same thing four times in a row and trying to do it more efficiently each time sounds like a good plan. This new gym is so cool and pretty and has so many problems that I just did everything starting from v0 to v2 once or twice until I got it and then moved to the next problem.

The I started trying v3s and it was hilarious how most v2s weren’t all that hard but all v3 felt way above my limit. I couldn’t even get in the starting position in half of them haha.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Straight Leg deadlift are harder to do properly in my opinion. Normal deadlift are not as hard as you think. Watching some videos and starting really light (think 1 plate max of you're a make in decent shape) while you focus on form ( film yourself ask for form checks on this forum ) and add 5 to 10 pounds a week.

It's a very basic human movement that you should be able to do anyway. Might keep you from getting injured picking up a box or something.

I'm guessing that for climbing you probably should keep things relatively light anyway. Not sure deadlidting 4 plates had much carry over and it'll make you heavy.

Squats are much harder to do properly though. Really doable for anyone, but it will take more time.

———

On another note I did 3 v3 today. Beginners progress is fun. 5 session ago most v2 seemed like I would need a few weeks to be able to do and I expected the v3 to take a few months.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Feb 28, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I also have golfer elbow from lifting and martial arts. Rice bucket stuff is good, but mostly rest

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
While were talking about finger injuries.

My middle finger will sometime lock up during the night at the middle joint. It precedes climbing by a few years, but it does happen a bit more frequently now that I started climbing . I can straighten it back without pain and it never happens during the day. I have no pain ever, not even during climbing, but the underside of my finger is slightly tender if I massage it hard.

I never really bothered finding out what it is since it’s not a problem in my life at all, but since I’m climbing now I guess I should be more cautious

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

armorer posted:

Look up "trigger finger". It sounds like it could be that. Basically a swollen nodule on the tendon on the underside of the finger, which gets caught on a pulley when you extend your finger.

Thanks. After some reading that seems to be what I have. Doesn’t seem to be much of a problem until it becomes one. I’ll talk to my physic about it next time I see her to see if there’s stuff I can do to help, but I'll keep climbing in the mean time. Thanks

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
So I began climbing a month ago and I really liked the feedback from my first time so here’s where I’m at now on my favorite v3.

Any glaring problems or specific stuff that I could focus on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AG4pJqo1CPo

Little extra thing that I’d like input on.

I train 2 to 3 times a week for anywhere between 1h30 to 2h30 and I tend to do the following :
1x just messing around and having fun doing whatever problem I feel like and socializing/doing problems with fun people
1x 20-30mmins projecting then 4x4 and then messing around with whatever drills I find online and want to if I have some time/energy left
1x 20-30 mins projecting and then mostly repeating stuff I can already do and try to go through them more effectively and/or doing easy crimpy stuff because my finger strength is abysmal. Or top roping to get rid of my fear of height

Does that sound like a good way to keep progressing as a beginner?

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Mar 28, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
That's why I boulder, because top roping scares me even if it's completely illogical. I do plan on top roping once every couple of weeks to eventually get rid of that stupid fear though. For the moment I get up 3/4 of the wall, get scared and then downclimb uhuhuh. I really don't mind jumping down from the highest overhanging wall at the boulder gym though, even if that's probably 10x more dangerous.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
My crimp strength is a joke and my pinch/Sloper grip is pretty good since judo grips are pretty similar. This is super annoying because as soon as there is a crimp, I lose almost two grades and it really sucks to be kept away from cool problems because of a single crimp.

I know hang boarding is off limit for now and regular climbing will improve my hand/tendon strength, but should I focus on crimpy problems to help develop strength? Is it better to do crimpy stuff that you can’t hold on, or bigger crimps that you can manage? Mix of both? I could « just have fun » but I’d be doing pinches and slopers all day.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I’ve been climbing for a month so I thought I should stay off. If you wouldn’t mind showing me toward a beginner appropriate routine or may be something I could do at the end of my session while I cool down and stretch that would be amazing.

I almost feel bad spending a bunch of time on cool pinch problems that I really enjoy because I feel like I really need to be doing crimpy stuff.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 5, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Thanks for all the inputs I appreciate the answers to my newbie questions

Good, I’ll keep on trucking then I guess. It’s just annoying to have one aspect of rock climbing be terribly weaker than everything else because my background developed most other aspect pretty well and not being able to focus my training on that weak aspect at all.

At least I can work on technique. That sticky feet/hand drill someone suggested as been « fun ».

Kasumeat posted:

You can start by doing dead hangs to ease yourself into hang training.

I’ve been dead hanging and active hanging on pull ups bar for over a year already a few times a week for non climbing reasons so I got that covered.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Apr 5, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I'm really enjoying the discussion even if I don't have much to contribute. It’s pretty cool because it’s a similar conversation we have in the grappling thread every so often and the opinions are similar (just grapple more vs hit the gym) I’ll try to take all opinions into account since there’s usually a lot of truth on both sides. Right now I’m thinking that hangboarding once a week at home is a possibility I need to evaluate if climbing 3 times a week is difficult to achieve and if I’m really cautious.

Things to note is that I have 3 kids which means limited climbing time (I manage to climb 2-3 x a week) but I could add specific training/hang boarding time on top of that quite easily since there is a gym at work + i can build a hang board for home use if it’s worth it. I think I’m pretty good at limiting intensity and following a certain protocol.

Verviticus posted:

how fit are you/how much do you weigh?

Well strength wise I deadlift ~ 3 plates, front squat 180 for 6 reps and bench 180 for 6 reps. Max on those is probably around 200/210. So nothing amazing, but I don’t think numbers higher than that would help with climbing much.

More relevant to climbing I can do around 10 strict pull-ups (may be more, I never really tried, I just add weight when I hit 10 or do more sets) and I can do 5-6 with 35 pounds extra. I can also do pistol squats (don’t know how many, I always do sets of 5 after my front squats so I’m pretty fried already)

I've been grappling (judo/bjj) for the past 15 years or so which feels pretty relevant to climbing somehow but is hard to put in numbers. I think it's mostly the core/stability/balance/flexibility that is useful.

I weigh 165 to 170 and I'm a bit over 5'8. I'm pretty lean, but still carry some fat. I could probably go back down to 160 without too much effort/losing strength. I'd guess my bodyfat is around 15 to 20% when looking at pictures of fat percentage.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Apr 7, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Rice bucket cleared up nagging tendinitis (golfer) that was there for years in less than a month for me. So you should check that out too. Training Beta podcast rice bucket routine they had is what I did.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

I can do all of the V2's in my gym except for one. It's just got a massive over hang and I have to really pull myself up with my right (non-dominant arm). I've been stuck on it for like 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts. I know I can do it, I just need to be a little stronger. It's a very easy problem to figure out... I just can't reach it. They're all big jug holds, but yea.

Made a little progress on a V3 that I've been stuck on for equally as long yesterday though, so that felt really good. The holds are much harder and there's a lot of foot work to this one, it's a good challenge and I was really psyched to get a hold or two higher than before.


Are there are any goons central Massachusetts? I'll be out that way from Thu - Mon this week, was thinking of going to Central Rock in Worcester on Friday maybe.

May be you need to work on your technique or figure out a different foot/angle to reach it. Outside edge with a foot smear and a body twist that forces your hip to the wall will give you a lot of reach and probably doesn’t require that much more power. Did you watch the climbing masterclass series on YouTube? It helped me tremendously

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Soooo, I’m definitely sticking with that climbing thing. I’ve been going for about two months and can currently do all v4s at my gym and can get the odd v5.

The thing is that I want to keep progressing, but I also enjoy weightlifting and want to keep doing that too. Due to kids I cannot really do anything on the weekends (other than some cardio, yoga or very basic stuff).

This summer I will have all weekdays off. Is there ressources to help me juggle barbell training alongside bouldering? I’d like to Boulder 4 days (obviously not going hard every time) and hit the weights 2 or 3 times.

E: currently boulder 3x a week and weightlifting 3-4x + a bunch of yoga and odd cardio session. I’m not feeling overtrained yet, but I’m guessing getting better at bouldering will stress my CNS more

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 00:37 on May 12, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Coming from 15 years of judo and bjj with strength training focused on not building too much mass was a pretty awesome starting platform. Also my gym grades might just be softer than yours.

Thanks to whoever replied. I think I’ll go with 2 weightlifting session a week for the summer and try to hit the bouldering gym 3 or 4 times. I can’t get myself to stop front squatting and deadlifting though. I like to think that front squats have quite a bit of carryover

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Trying to set up my summer routine and I’m getting a bit more concrete in my head. Weekends are off limit.

Monday : climbing (projecting)
Tuesday : climbing (4x4) weightlifting
Wednesday : yoga/active recovery
Thursday : climbing (30 mins projecting then volume on grades I can flash or do in a couple attempts), weightlifting
Friday : climbing (easy or hard depending on how I feel, but probably pretty social night)

Would this be a good way to structure it?

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Wrr posted:

I started off at the gym by myself approching rando climbers and asking for tips or help on unrelated beta to whatever they were doing. Helps to be an extreme extrovert I guess.

Ask anyone really, in between attempts people love talking most of the time and they will be super happy to help you. Some probably want to, but don’t want to be annoying and tell others what to do without being asked.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

Oh? A friend who initially introduced me to the sport years ago said they helped him them. Oh well. Just something to fidget with at work then :v:

One thing I love about climbing is that people are really chill. It can be a nice social experience to climb. I’ve been doing this for a bit over 2 months and have a bunch of gym buddies now. I used to suffer from heavy social anxiety though, so I can understand that it’s not easy at first.

While you won’t be jumping grades because you do finger exercises, they might still help a bit.Especially if you have particularly weak forearms or can’t climb multiple times a week. At worst they’ll help prevent injuries so it’s still a win.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

Oh, what I meant was left arm up, then out with my right to one of those holds to the right of those pink volumes. Then match with my right to the one where my left hand is. At that point, I think I don't know where to go with my feet in order to get that extra inch of reach for the out-of-frame hold.

I don't think I'll physically be able to go tonight, which is a bummer because I really wanted this one. But oh well, there'll be others, right? This sport/hobby is addicting as hell you guys :getin:


edit; also while most of the climbers I watched do reach out with their right arm first, I find that I just don't have the strength that way. I'm left handed, so reaching up with my left then out with my right was working a lot better

Why don’t you use the 3 jugs on the right?

If I’m reading this right I’d keep my right foot where it is in the picture, smear my left foot further left out of frame on the wall and push to turn my right hip toward the wall. Hold current hold with my left arm and reach my right hand to the jug on the right (or on of the two above if it’s not a good hold). Then switch feet and smear with right foot to reach with the left hand.

If you really have to get the top hold, you should still probably do the right foot on the hold and left foot smearing further on the left and twist lock upward with the right.



Sab669 posted:

Rad. I've been watching that Masterclass climbing playlist someone linked earlier, and while it's informative I feel like I haven't really been able to figure out which technique to apply when/where, so more learning materials should be good.

I suggest you just try to do all the techniques you can on v0 even if they don’t really fit just so you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t and when.

Like here’s a video of me warming up on a v0. There’s nothing necessary in what I do and some move are definitely making it harder then it needs to be and some move simply don’t really fit. But I think it’s helping me progress a whole lot since every time I understand different moves a bit more and get when I can use them effectively, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0BBhqLW_Js

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 3, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Hey I’d like to pick your brains. Not sure what to do with this v5 I’d really like to send since arettes are cool even if I suck at them. I’ve never seen anyone attempt it and the few people I asked had no idea either.



I circled all the holds which are all small slopey crimps/pinch. You have to get on top of the volume to continue.

I can get my left foot on the hold that is on my side of the volume on my left, but then I cant seem to do anything else. I think I’m supposed to get my left foot on the far side hold on the left to get up the volume, but as soon as I get my right heel hook off I spin out.

I took a small video at the end of my session to give an idea of what happens, but I was too tired to get my hand high enough so couldn’t get my foot on the left hold and my right heel slipped, but I think it can still give you an idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0EyXqOKFkU

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Endjinneer posted:

To hell with it. I'll spray some beta.

This was particularly awesome thanks.

I’ll make sure I’ll try all of this and I’ll try to record it.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
How do moonboards and kilter boards compare to outside climbing.

My gym has a kilter board and v1s are pretty freaking hard

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

crazycello posted:

Way more accurate than gym grading.

Cool thanks. I Want to go try outside bouldering this summer so I’ll make sure I find an area with plenty of v0-1-2

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

The gym posts a "problem of the week" video on Facebook. Made my first few attempts on their most recent video yesterday, tons of fun and I look forward to figuring out the rest of it :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q89WfEu-cY

I don’t think you’re meant to send your right foot so far at the end. You’re blocking yourself which is why you can’t reach the next hold.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Current gym (bouldering only) changes 2 to 3 sections a week (about 6 to 10 problems) and it takes around 4 weeks for a complete refresh.

They have two other gyms (1 other bouldering one mainly roped) in my city and I think the setters just work full time setting a section of a gym a day. There’s usually 3-4 setters working at the same time and they told me it takes them 5-7 hours to set a section most of the time. Im not sure how much they get paid, but it’s probably a significant expanse. But the constant new stuff keeps the experience enjoyable and fresh.

Going 3 times a week that’s perfect for me at my level because I always have new stuff to try and if i want to project something I take something newish so I have at least 3 weeks to work on it and that's fine for me. But my gym is super spacious and problems don’t cross each other much. so we need frequent refreshes. Gyms with super busy walls with a millions holds and hundreds of problems probably change wayyy less often and it will be fine because there's so many things to chose from

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jun 18, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
As long as the gym is consistent in it's grading I don't really see the problem?

As a newcomer to the sport I much prefer softish grades that allow me to have a nice way to gauge progression/have routes that are clearly a bit below my level, about my level and a bit over than have VB warm-up routes and then it's either never clear how hard it's going to be because v1 can be easy-ish to really hard or everything is super hard. If I compare with the Kilter Board, there's no way I would have enjoyed climbing (especially in the first 2 months) if problems were of that difficulty at v0-v1.

In my gym v0 are just warm-up things I guess, v1 will give you slightly worst holds or space them appart a bit more, v2 are harder versions of v1s or introduces you to some techniques/moves. v3 starts to force you to use some techniques like flagging, drop knee, mantling, etc. and v4 and onward is actual climbing with pretty big jumps in difficulty from one to the next. I think that's an amazing way to get beginners excited and feel your progression when you first begin while introducing you to a lot of techniques that will be necessary to keep progressing. Most people probably never boulder outside anyway and if they do they probably heard that it's much harder than indoor climbing since that's hardly a secret.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Jester Mcgee posted:

Here I am trying a boulder problem that I can't figure out. It's pretty steep, and when I get to the point where I fell off I can't figure out what to do with my feet. It's the black holds, but I realize that it's sort of hard to see which holds are in in the video. Any tips would be appreciated!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pcy0Vb3NzNs

Edit - Woops had it as private! Should be fixed now.

Looks like you don't have much body tension/are not pushing on the right foot when you fall.

Can you heel hook the hold above your left knee? And/or back stepping on the volume your right foot is already on?

Anyway it feels like you'd at least want to pivot the right foot so it's facing the other way, keep a lot of tension and then match the last hold you touched. then turning around again to get to the next one?

Might be able to bump to the next one with the left arm if the heel hook is possible/good without matching.

I'm bad so that might all be stupid :)

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Jester Mcgee posted:

Hmmm, like a drop knee with my right leg? That might work. The heel hook with the left foot looks really doable in the video, but when I was up there it felt like I wouldn't get anything from it, definitely worth trying though. And about the general lack of body tension: that is one of my biggest weaknesses. I'm pretty tall, and that means my puny core can't keep up with all this bod I'm lugging around.

yeah like a drop knee with the right leg is what I had in mind. But looking at it more I think by just moving the foot closer to the tip of the volume and actively pushing in your toes you might be able to avoid the drop knee thing I suggested entirely. Your foot slips off automatically when your right hand leave the hold so by not relying just on the left leg you might not open and slip like that.

Still feels like turning your foot/body toward the left should help and would make more sense to help you get that right hand up. But the right hand look like a really solid hand hold while the one you're matching to is really bad, so trying if you can get a good heel hook to bump your left hand to the next hold might be smart.

Like I said I'm bad and only climb V5 (and not all of them) so I might just be super wrong, especially if this is harder than it looks.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Hauki posted:

more small potatoes, but I crushed my first v5 today, worked it a bit Sunday, warmed up tonight on a 0, 2 1s and an easy 3 and then cruised it

went and did a bunch of easier stuff until I was feeling the burn and did a victory lap on the 5 again

~gym grades~ felt easier than some 3s

pretty stoked either way though

Congrats, it's always nice to get your first "next grade" climb. It doesn't matter if it's your first v3 or first v10 I'm pretty sure the feeling is always just as awesome.

I Got my first v6 2 days ago and I was really loving happy. Sure, it's perfectly my style and my flexibility/balance made it feel more like v4-5 to me, but I'm still super happy especially since I see many climbers who are much better than myself (v8-v9) struggle on it.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Being able to get a rough idea of how hard a problem is by looking at it's grade is really useful to me and a nice way to gauge progress as a beginner. You still need to try harder stuff and it won't tell you what grade you'll do outside or even in another gym. but it's still a really good tool in my opinion if the grades are pretty consistent.

I feel like my gym is pretty good at keeping things consistent and while there's some problems that feel a bit off, it tends to feel pretty accurate. I'd say 90% of the problems feel like they were rated correctly (by that I mean consistent with the rest of the problems in the gym. Which is all that I think is really important). Route setters are working as a group here though and will all climb the thing and chime in so that might be why. I know a lot of gym seem to have individual routes set by individual setters which would probably make things less consistent VS having 4 to 6 people making a route together and deciding on the grade together.

Jester Mcgee posted:

I can sort of see how this is true, but even though I can generally Boulder V4-5 I still fall off most 5.10b routes because my endurance is garbage. It feels bad to fall of a route that doesn’t have any challenging moves, but I think that’s just the name of the game as I work on my sport climbing. Probably doesn’t help that I’m always climbing at the Red, and so most things are endurance challenges as opposed to super techy stuff.

Yeah I think being able to do the equivalent of V4 on top rope means you'll do it in bouldering, but it doesn't work the other way around. I don't know much about route climbing, but from what I understand a 5.10 will have it's hardest move be a v3 type of move, but since it's somewhere in the middle of the route then you're tired when you get there.

I've been route climbing about 5 times now and the hardest I've done was a 5.10+ and no individual move was anywhere near as hard as what I can boulder, but I thought I was going to die by the time I was up top. Doesn't help that my mental game is really weak as soon as I'm halfway up the wall since I'm still kind of scared of height.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Aug 16, 2019

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I want to get my shoes resoled when they are due.

Is this what "due" looks like? Can I still climb with this for a little bit without damaging the rand?

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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Those shoes have 2 months at 4x a week 2-3 hours sessions. I'm 170lbs.

But
1. The walls and holds at my daily gym are very new and have stupid high friction
2. I think I mostly destroyed them doing slab and slipping off volumes and such. Because I love them slab. I might get another, more durable, pair for warm-up and slabby stuff that I tend to slip off of.
3. I do a lot of pivoting on the toes which felt very good but I'm now thinking I'll try to stop doing because it probably ruins my big toe super fast.

The rest of the shoe is so barely used that it hurts having to resole already. But I'm pretty much only using the big toe tip anyway so that's kind of normal I guess.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Aug 19, 2019

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