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Does anyone else have problems with their knees? I've been climbing for a few months now, making steady progress, but my knees are giving me constant trouble. They're really getting quite sore. At least once a session, often more I nail a knee into a hold, a wall, or something. They're covered in bruises. It was kinda funny at first but it's been bumming me out a little. Am I just unco or is this fairly common?
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Jan 17, 2013 15:31
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 03:16 |
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PRADA SLUT posted:Are there any videos on general technique or anything like that? I'm trying to keep my center of gravity low and keep the weight off my arms as much as possible, but I'd still like some pointers. There's one I saw the other day that I thought was pretty good - "Neil Gresham's Masterclass", bunch of general climbing techniques and stuff. Not all of it will be applicable to bouldering though. Anyhoo, I had my first flapper today! I'm not sure why but I'm a little bit excited. 
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Feb 16, 2013 08:00
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Well, it was a big juggy boulder problem I did that on. You have to transition from being almost horizontal with your feet to the left to the same but on the other side. It was when I was getting my feet over that this happened - swung a bit wildly and came off, tore my hand a bit in doing so. I definitely need to try to climb "quieter" though - I get a bit wild and sloppy when trying harder stuff. I've only been climbing for around 4 months, so my hands are still pretty soft which probably doesn't help.
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Feb 17, 2013 07:47
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PRADA SLUT posted:Are there any bags made for holding shoes and harnesses and poo poo, or do people just throw them in any bag? I just use a little drawstring nylon bag, works well enough. A rubber band around the bundled up harness should keep it from getting tangled.
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Mar 3, 2013 07:41
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I can do about half the v2s in my gym... can't even get off the ground on v4 and up 
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Mar 5, 2013 01:47
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Claes Oldenburger posted:as a 6' 135 pound guy I'm 5'7 ~155 pounds, kinda jealous of all you tall skinny people. On the other hand, I have a fair bit of leg strength, so on some tricky stuff I can more or less do a single leg squat up and be all like 
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Mar 10, 2013 06:19
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bragpost! After being stuck doing v1s and v2s for a couple of months at my gym, tonight I finally sent a v4 I've been working at for the past month. Hadn't really got close to doing the crux before, but tonight it all clicked and it was (relatively) easy! Made some good progress on a few other problems too. So uh, keep at it if you're plateauing I guess.
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Apr 3, 2013 15:30
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Lead my first climb today, only a 5.7 but it felt pretty intense. I'm a complete gumby clipping draws though ugh.
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Jun 23, 2013 13:14
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Year of the Monkey posted:5.7 is pretty awesome for a first lead! Pretty sure that smooth clipping only comes with practice. Coming from a trad background I always look for a comfortable stance to give me plenty of time to muck about before I clip. I'm rubbish at leading though so there may be a better way. Yeah I was pretty stoked. It was my first clean send outside too - the increased incentive not to fall vs. top-rope helped with that, heh. Kinda depressing how bad I am on real rock though - I can climb 5.11 in the gym, but I'm a complete scrub outside because I can't read the routes. Year of the Monkey posted:Is this par for the course or is it just my terrible sloper technique? Are you actually slipping off the holds? I've had a couple of flappers from working a problem a lot & slipping off a ton. I think it's the sliding friction that does it.
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Jun 24, 2013 09:22
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Took my first lead fall tonight, followed by a few more on the same climb. First one was kinda dumb, overbalanced mantling onto a ledge just past the first bolt. Only a little fall, though still big compared to anything on top rope. The rest were after the last bolt, right before the anchor. I was getting pumped out, didn't think about the feet well enough. My grip gave out when I was trying to match hands onto an okish jug. Had trouble keeping my cool & thinking about what I was doing after the first fall - it was pretty big, ~4m at a guess? A bit freaky too as the fall ends pretty close over a big ledge. Had to get a stronger friend to finish & clean it in the end, I got too pumped/psyched out to complete it. It was fairly easy on top rope! Idiot Wind (5.10d in the american scale?)
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Jul 31, 2013 14:28
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idiotsavant posted:I feel like that's one of my biggest obstacles to get over for leading outside - not only do I get tired faster because I REALLY want to feel safe and clipped in, but I also make poor clipping decisions, like reaching too far off a bad handhold to make a sketchy clip instead of staying calm and making two more moves to something rock solid that makes the clip easy. Did some mock lead in the gym tonight, and while it wasn't great in some aspects (I'd like to have more experience taking lead falls), it was really nice for helping me make better clipping position decisions. Sometimes it's good to make another move or three to clip, sometimes I have a bomber hold and great position and a long clip is a snatch. To be honest it was probably a pretty dumb idea trying to lead it. All my other leading has been on easier stuff (5.9 or less) that hasn't really been close to my limit. Even though I am quite capable of doing it, some of the moves required more commitment than I was comfortable with I guess. I want to jump back on it on top rope & drill the last section where I had the falls then try it again on lead. It's messing with my head now that the adrenaline has worn off. Might have to wait a little while though as I hosed up my shoulder trying a stupid move in the gym last night, *sigh*. As far as clipping goes I find a good thing to keep in my head is that if you try to make a sketchy clip from down low & gently caress it up, the fall is going to be much worse as you'll have more rope out, so you're going to fall further past your last point of protection.
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Aug 2, 2013 10:01
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gimpsuitjones posted:Hey I'm pretty much totally new to this, have wanted to get into climbing for ages but never done it. Are there any Brisbane, Australia, climbers who can help me out? I'm fit, NZer, work FIFO out of town 15/6. So I'm looking for something to do on my weeks off work and I don't really know anyone in town. Hey, I'm a climber who lives in Brisbane. Still fairly new so dunno exactly how well I'll be able to help out but drop me a pm or something. On another note, do any of you guys do much low-angle frictiony slab? I was out this weekend trying some and it's.... different. The stuff I tried was probably around 15 degrees from vertical. Wasn't too bad on some of the lower graded routes I tried, but after those I had a shot on top-rope at a route graded 20 (roughly 5.11a in american) and it was ridiculous. For the first half of the route I basically had to just lean in and smear off everything with all available bodyparts. Didn't help that it wasn't the most heavily trafficked crag, so there was loads of dried out moss that acted more or less like grease all over the cliff. Still, I had fun trying something different 
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Oct 6, 2013 12:01
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TotallyUnoriginal posted:A 5.11 slab sounds like literal hell. I was laughing as I was going up as half the time I wasn't quite sure how I was still attached to the wall. It was less funny when I was leading on an easier route and hit the crux 2m past a bolt. Sliding 5 or so metres down the wall didn't seem like fun, had to downclimb and have a bit of a think about it before I went for it.
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Oct 6, 2013 14:31
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VagueRant posted:But is there a rough guide about where on the rope you should start your figure of eight? (I seem to recall being told to dangle the end of the rope from your waist to the floor?) - from my right hand to left shoulder is usually about right, I guess that depends on how long your arms are though - two fists bare minimum. If you have enough to tie a stopper (ie. double fishermans) that's about right. If you too much tail you can turn it into a triple - quite tight, if you can get a fist in easily it's probably too loose
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Oct 8, 2013 14:31
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4R7 THi3F posted:Is there a correct way to fall when you're bouldering? I almost hit my face against the wall the last Wednesday when I missed a grab, and I was probably lucky that I didn't break my nose. :/ Not onto your head? Falling is something that goes with the territory when climbing outside - whether roped or bouldering or whatever. Basically you need to be aware of how you are gonna fall at any given point, and generally try to avoid putting yourself in positions where you're gonna smash your face in or break an ankle. Sometimes a bad/awkward fall is going to be unavoidable and if that is the case you need to decide whether you're confident you can make the move, and whether you are willing to take the risk or if you are going to back down. Roped climbing is fun and you should do it
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Oct 13, 2013 12:37
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 03:16 |
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Al-Saqr posted:2- will this cause numbness and pain to my hands/fingers beyond normal fatigue? I am an artist, and I had a bad experience with boxing where every time I would end the session my hands would shake uncontrollably for a few hours afterwards and I wouldn't be able to draw for half a day, does the same thing happen with rock climbing? Expect to destroy your grip the first few times you go - first time I went climbing I could barely squeeze the brake levers on my bike as I rode home. That stopped happening after a few sessions though.
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Jan 10, 2015 04:57
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