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I see good climbers leading in pajama pants at my gym. I wear some nylon convertible pants I got for hiking in because they're comfortable and durable, but anything that doesn't constrain your movement is fine.
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Feb 15, 2013 21:36
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A REI employee told me to stuff them with newspaper after climbing, and it's been remarkably effective. No smell yet on my (synthetic) Evolv Defys.
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Feb 23, 2013 23:12
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Petey posted:I've been bouldering twice a week for the last few weeks and have been ramping up from V0s to V3s. However, just today I noticed my first tendon pain: while gripping something (at home) with my right hand such that my hand hinged shut with pressure on my fingers, my middle finger's right knuckle flared up with a throbbing soreness. I don't notice it generally, but if I either extend or close that finger all the way, the knuckle is definitely sore "inside," which I understand to be characteristic of tendon aggravation. I had a similar problem that happened because I was attempting to climb things that I could kind of hold on to but wasn't really strong enough (fingers, forearms, hands) to do. I took a break from climbing for about a week and worked on upper body strength and other stuff at the gym that didn't use my fingers, and it went away.
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Mar 9, 2013 22:24
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PRADA SLUT posted:My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover. I climb roughly that much (sometimes more) and I use lotion after I climb - seems to do the trick. Are you sure you're using enough chalk? Slipping a little on the holds is really rough on my hands and makes a huge difference in terms of blisters/calluses.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:14
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seventeen posted:I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions. If you experience tendon pain, give it a rest for a few days until the pain is gone and you've healed. Your grip's going to be the weakest link at this point, and you can get your fingers around a juggy hold and hang on but you're putting a big portion of your body weight on them and it's a likely place to get injured when you're starting out.
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Mar 26, 2013 18:17
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jiggerypokery posted:I see what your saying but a large part (nearly all) the skill involved in spotting is identifying where and when it is nesiccary. At the end of the day the most serious indoor climbing injuries are often from climbers landing on each other. A small inconsequential fall for a climber of just a few feet is enough to paralyse someone they land on if they are standing in the wrong place. I'm definatly not saying don't spot indoors all I am saying is it's not a skill you 'practice' for use out doors. It's either nessicary in a given situation or it's not regardless of where you are. The skill is just identifying where. So how are you supposed to learn to spot safely then? Or to learn when to spot?
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Mar 31, 2013 18:30
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Fontoyn posted:So, uh, wrist problems abound. I took a break from climbing and am trying to boulder v3 atm. Go see a doctor and quit climbing on it. That sounds serious.
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Apr 9, 2013 04:02
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While I love my gym, and the staffers are great, there isn't any safety instruction given for bouldering. Yes, absolutely zero safety instruction. There are some informational signs here and there, but if you pay the entry fee you're good to go. Seems pretty crazy to me.
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Jul 10, 2013 07:28
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guppy posted:I am introducing friends to the hobby, with some success. A lot of them are fit and take to it no problem, but I have one friend who -- although she has been very gung-ho -- is having a lot of trouble getting going because she's out of shape. She isn't even doing routes right now, just using whatever handholds are handy, and still can't reliably get up the wall, and generally only manages 1-2 attempts per evening. Anyone who can climb a ladder can get up easy routes with decent technique (not pullups). Just avoid overhanging stuff for a while and she'll be fine.
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Aug 18, 2013 05:13
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Headhunter posted:'sup climbing thread. Just climb more. Spend time traversing, work on your grip by staying on the wall longer, and understand that you will never progress as fast as when you started out.
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Sep 17, 2013 22:22
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Fanzay posted:I might be moving to the US or Canada in the fall, and I just don't understand your difficulty ratings! Could any of you explain them to me like I was a retarded Scandinavian? (I am a retarded Scandinavian) Alternatively, provide me with a good link? If you Google climbing grades, the Wikipedia article has a comparison chart. Currently taking a couple weeks off to avoid further injury, give yourself rest days people, particularly after a break.
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Feb 17, 2014 23:40
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It really depends on your level of fitness. Personally, when I started climbing, I would only ever go hiking for exercise, and my upper body strength was non-existent. Simply being able to do a pull up makes an immense difference in your ability to climb. If you can't muscle up anything at all, you're going to have problems with anything overhung. If you're overweight, or have weak grip strength, you're going to have problems period. Do you need to do hangboard training in order to get past this? No. But using an assistive pull-up machine and strengthening your core through yoga (or climbing or whatever) will make a big difference over time, and less weight makes everything easier. I found the Metolius rubber donut thing to provide a major boost to grip and forearm strength as well as stamina when used regularly, and I would strongly suggest them for anyone with a commute where they have a hand free - it was great on BART.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:06
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Caf posted:I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned ClimbOn bars yet. A little bit goes a long way and it smells pretty good too. I love the ClimbOn bars, and while expensive they last forever.
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Mar 5, 2014 20:59
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4R7 THi3F posted:Feeling pretty good right now because I finally managed to climb the last two V1's that were eluding me at my gym. You generally use those for balance, keeping you from falling off of the wall, while moving upwards with your legs and attempting to keep your weight off of your hands. As always, if in doubt watch another climber or ask someone standing around bouldering.
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May 4, 2014 06:03
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CoasterMaster posted:Anyway, once I feel confident leading, is there anything else I need to know before going outside to a real rock? You should probably take a course or go with people who really know what they're doing. Or you could just watch a video or two, but I sure as hell wouldn't risk it.
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Jul 9, 2014 18:53
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lime rind posted:Heh, I would save $20 going the Tarantulace route. As a beginner the Tarantulas will likely be fine until you wear them out. Get any comfortable not-too-aggressive shoe. As long as it's snug enough to not shift around on you it'll be fine. I would definitely not get something tight enough that you want to be constantly pulling them off because the advantages tight fitting aggressive shoes provide are simply not relevant to the beginning climber.
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Sep 30, 2014 17:04
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For ~$11 off plus whatever discount the coupon gives I'd skip these and just buy whatever pair you actually want for more money. You're likely going to be using them for a long time.
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May 24, 2018 01:03
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Betazoid posted:So my husband and I are indoor sport climbers and boulderers. We started climbing about 2 years ago and started to really understand footwork about a year ago. I usually am in the 5.8-5.10a range and he's in the 5.10c-11c range. We took two weeks off in May and it killed us; when we got back, 5.7s were hard again. We just took 6 weeks off (vacation plus a busy month), and after two sessions back I flashed a 5.9! I was surprised I could do it! It's possible your gym is the most sandbagged gym in the world, but if not you just need to climb harder stuff and get used to struggling your way up. 5.9 indoors shouldn't be too hard for someone in acceptable physical shape, and certainly not after two years of climbing. I climb with a circle of women around your height that are all over the weight spectrum and I don't think that's your problem. What grade do you boulder in your gym? My guess is that you've stuck to easier stuff that feels doable and have avoided moves/routes that are challenging or that you haven't learned to do yet. Bouldering is a good way to learn more challenging movements and you can watch other climbers and ask for suggestions if you're struggling on a move. Given that your husband is a stronger climber, what does he think your issues needing focus are?
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Oct 17, 2018 17:24
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Anyone have any Tahoe bouldering spots? Going to be up there for the next several days. Somewhere I could bring a kid and mess around without being on a cliff would be ideal, if such a spot exists.
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Nov 17, 2018 03:26
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interrodactyl posted:How hard? Oops. Let's say V5 and below, maybe making some bad attempts at V6.
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Nov 17, 2018 18:16
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Boner Pill Connoisseur posted:Re tendonitis, I'm also old as poo poo in climbing terms and have had to deal with this too. Don't forget downclimbing - fit it in to each day. Like for ever 3-4 routes you do, try and downclimb 1 Can you explain how this is helpful regarding tendonitis? Seems like it would work the same muscles the same way just going downwards similarly to how people do negatives before they can do a full pull up. I imagine there's something I'm missing?
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Jan 4, 2019 02:32
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It means you should do more dips.
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Mar 11, 2019 02:11
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I usually have people just sit back on the rope down really low or take falls on the rope from only a little ways up to build confidence in the safety system. I do the same thing with people afraid of bouldering, practicing jumping down safely form progressively higher up.
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Apr 2, 2019 00:55
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remote control carnivore posted:I need tips and tricks for footwork on horizontal routes. I keep crapping out on my gym project one clip from the anchors because I get worn out, and I think it's because i do'nt know where to put my drat feet. Climb stuff you think you can't send, ideally overhung. Same idea as bouldering. Do hard moves a lot.
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Apr 21, 2019 04:52
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Kasumeat posted:I need to replace my Vapor Vs, but the new generation has a stiffer sole and are now 100% synthetic, which are steps in the wrong direction. Are there are any shoes with a similar large toebox that are leather and relatively soft? I got some Otakis which have a really good fit for me but the sole is way too firm. Im strongly considering buying a pair of the new ones based on fit alone. What's the issue with a fully synthetic shoe? You can also still definitely find the old version around the web.
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May 9, 2019 20:44
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REI is offering 25 percent off all Scarpa shoes right now, and 20 percent on any full price item. It's a good spot for shoes, especially when starting out, because of their return policy.
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May 17, 2019 17:45
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rest his guts posted:That's, uhh, awful. Do you at least have some sort of board or system wall? I'd be interested in the details and how to set up my own plan if you want to do a write up.
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Jun 22, 2019 01:06
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Anybody want to explain the science of saunas and why I should be using the one at my climbing gym? Never been in it.
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Jul 19, 2019 08:01
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Hot Diggity! posted:Been using the Futura lately and while the no-edge is a bit of an adjustment I like the shoes a lot I love the no-edge and feel like they're soft enough that you can size down to get a very snug fit. No-edge really gives confidence on tiny little chips and on smears, there's a much better sense of whether you're going to stick it or not versus a shoe like the Miura. I wear a size 42.5 in Futuras and most other La Sportiva shoes I've owned (Miura lace, Cobra Mythos). My street size is an 11.5 US. I have kind of low-volume feet, and a longer second toe with a narrow heel and I like the fit comfort a lot given the performance aspects. My next shoe will definitely be the Speedster or other no-edge.
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Sep 20, 2019 07:46
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As someone who has been plateaued for a long time, strength usually isn't the issue but it certainly doesn't hurt. If you were a sedentary goon before climbing you may have some severe core strength deficiencies or flexibility deficiencies even if you can do ten pull ups. Also if you never work at crimpy climbs, or slopers, or whatever, you won't get better at those things. This includes the mental aspect - if you don't like pushing your limits and risking falls it's really hard to get good at bouldering. Sometimes it can help to have a climbing buddy push you a little, verbally, while you're working those moves. It's really easy to have fun while treading water in terms of improving your climbing. New routes coming up at the gym regularly means you can stay the same and still have a good time. I barely climbed over the last month due to illness and my forearms were sore for a couple of days after climbing again for the first time in ages...
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Dec 21, 2019 04:22
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interrodactyl posted:Climbing is primarily a skill based sport, so a supplemental workout of that difficulty is just making your time on the wall less focused and efficient. What's your core and antagonist routine? I took the last two months off for the most part due to illness and going back I'm incredibly weak and have forgotten how to climb. Seems like a good time for a new training plan.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:02
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On Terra Firma posted:Shoe question. I'm about worn through my Evolv Kronos and have been trying every shoe I can get my hands on through REI. Pretty much everything has some kind of shoe "fart" for me no matter how much I size down. I know this has to do with the heel not fitting properly and allowing air to get sucked down, but is it something that goes away if it's minor? I think I've bought and returned around 25-30 pairs of shoes and haven't found anything that seems to work. You may not be sizing down enough. Especially if you're ordering online and not trying on multiple pairs of the same shoe. What shoes have come closest?
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Feb 25, 2020 17:54
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