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Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Sigmund Fraud posted:

So what have been the most uncomfortable gut-churning experienced you've had climbing?

There are the various run-outs or climbing above ledges where falling definitely feels scarier. Or getting your rope stuck on a multi-pitch rappel and having to figure out how to safely get it unstuck.

But by far, my climbing partner ground falling from the top of a single pitch sport route after making a mistake setting up for a rappel. He lived but that was terrifying. So grateful search and rescue organizations.

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Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America
Going to Bend, OR for a wedding and tacking on a couple extra days for climbing at Smith Rock (well, I assume Smith Rock, unless someone here encourages another area).

I'll only have my sport climbing gear and have been so focused on bouldering I haven't been on a rope in a while. Endurance work has been lacking and it is going to show!

Any suggestions for areas or routes to look at? Probably just going to focus on climbing moderates given the lack of rope climbing preparation.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

alnilam posted:

What kind of grade do you climb?
What time of year?
What days of the week?

Fair. Should have included some more details.

We're going to be there this week and was planning on climbing Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. With Thursday and Saturday probably being shorter days due to travel or wedding related activities.

At the Red River Gorge in Kentucky, I've climbed up to 12b. My partner has climbed about a number lower than that.

I'm not really planning on pushing myself grade wise. I've mostly been bouldering for the last year and just feel like getting on some rock and enjoying the outdoors.

Probably mostly looking for recommendations in the low 5.10 and under range that doesn't require any trad gear. Multi-pitch would be fine but originally I was just thinking about single pitch.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America
Thanks for all the info. Definitely useful. A (another?) smith local also recommended The Zoo.

Looks like the guidebook we borrowed (not the latest edition) doesn't have much information about it so hopefully we'll be able to pick a new edition.

Long approaches aren't much of a discouragement when the closest decent climbing is usually a 5+ hour drive and hike away.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America
When an inside flag works it works amazingly well. Do you need to use them? Rarely.

But when you use one instead of swapping feet and cut out a couple moves from your beta, it feels so good.

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