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myownsavior posted:My university gym is finally opening back up again!! It's been closed the last few months due to a climber decking on lead (supposedly due to a horrid belay but I don't know the full story, just hearsay). Watching Dosage 4 to get pumped. Was this at U of Iowa? They must be sorting out the liability issues still. This incident had an effect on the wall at my local university, where they started clamping down on some safety protocols and wondering if lead climbing was a good idea. Seems quite obvious that this incident in Iowa was something far outside safe climbing practices.. (http://www.iowacityowl.com/posts/613-Accident-on-Iowa-City-Rock-Climbing-Wall for those that haven't seen it.) After this Iowa incident, one way they were strongly enforcing the rules at my wall was to make sure all belayers were anchoring to the floor. Something I find unnecessary since my climbing partners are of similar weight, we're typically top roping through belay bars, limits the belayers movement, and so on. One student employee thought this was so important, that while a person was climbing, she noted that the belayer had failed to anchor. With a person 30 feet in the air, the employee unscrewed the locking biner on the belayer, passed the anchor sling into the 'biner, and re-locked the biner. And thought that process somehow made the climber safer, rather than simply correcting the belayer when the climber returned to the ground. Anyway, I'd be interested to know if you find out any more details regarding the incident at Iowa (if that's where you're from.)
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Jan 17, 2013 15:46
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 12:16 |
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Some friends and I are considering heading out to Colorado during the second week of March, and I was wondering if anyone had any insight into a couple things that I've been thinking about. Browsing through Mountain Project, I've seen some threads recommending Cańon City for that time of year, in terms of best chances for (relatively) warm weather. I've seen some comments regarding the more immediate Denver/Boulder area being somewhat cooler. Anyone from the area/climbed the area in that time care to comment? Secondly, I'm struggling to come up with a jacket to belay in. We're going to be doing single pitch sport climbing primarily, with an occasional multi-pitch climb. I'd like to stay warm when wandering around the base of the crag and belaying. What are you all wearing for that purpose? I've looked at the Patagonia DAS, but it seems like a bit of overkill for what I'd be doing. It doesn't seem like many jackets have the dual zipper built for belaying though, which surprises me. Thanks!
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Feb 21, 2013 05:29
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Anybody done much climbing in the Tetons? Some friends and I are visiting next week, and was looking for recommendations in terms of food/climbing/rest day activities. Our goal right now is to hit some class 4/easy 5 to get acclimated at the start of the week, easy 5 in the middle and finish with an ascent of the Grand via Owen Spalding at the end of the week.
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Jul 28, 2014 15:47
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Muir Valley is excellent, particularly the wall that Gettin' Lucky is on. Great 10 wall. The climbing is so dense and accessible in the valley, although I will suggest you did yourself a slight disservice in not getting to the PMRP for a day. Some fantastic climbing in the low/mid 10's there. Heading to the Red again this weekend to work on some routes that have been dreams thus far. Really looking forward to it, assuming the forecast holds up.
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Oct 27, 2014 19:51
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Sounds like you had an awesome time, glad you could visit. I've been out to Shelf Road once before and am equally jealous of your access to such a place. Great spot. Be sure to check out the online guide at redriverclimbing.com if you need more crag beta next time (if you didn't already know about that.) Run by locals and stays fairly up to date.
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Oct 27, 2014 21:19
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I have these from Camp USA, and like them. http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Camp-USA-Photon-Mixed-Express-Nylon-Quickdraw_10118975_10208_10000001_-1_ Pretty good price there too. The only complaint I have is that they don't use a typical rubber "keeper" on the rope side of the draw, but rather sew the sling really tight to keep the biner oriented. This usually works, but sometimes the wiregate biner turns in the sling a little bit. Not a problem, usually something I notice on the ground, but can be annoying. This draw addresses the keylock/wiregate issue discussed above. I'm in agreement in that at this point, any draw I buy for sport has the keylock nose on the bolt side.
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Mar 10, 2015 16:21
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armorer posted:In case anyone is curious, they issued him an RMA on this minutes after he contacted them about it. No word beyond that though. I forget what he was belaying with, Gri-Gri or tube style device? Not sure if this completely applies to you, but those Gridlocks can get twisted a bit funny, the hook snagging on the belay loop, etc. BD apparently recommends using it with the GriGri in the narrow end for this reason. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/psa-use-the-small-side-of-a-gridlock-biner-with-your-grigri/109091119 Again, not sure if it totally applies, but I could see if he was leaving a lot of slack while belaying (even with a tube), the Gridlock could get snagged and then load on the hook when you fell.
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Mar 25, 2015 16:26
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quote:So I'm about to spend a week at the Red River Gorge, and my goal for the trip is to break through to leading 11. I've on sited plenty of 10+ at the New, just haven't gotten through 11 yet. Recommendations for routes/areas? spwrozek posted:I would go on mountain project and search 10 and 11's with 3+ stars. You will get a nice list to look through. Be sure to look at the RRG online guide. Not aware of any other climbing area that has a resource like it, and the info on it will be better than what's on MP. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/ General areas to hit are Muir Valley and the PMRP, but you probably already know that. Muir is densely packed with routes and easy to navigate - can walk from one end of the valley to the other in ~20 minutes. In that span you'll find enough climbing in your range to keep you busy for a few days. For pushing on 11s, I'd check out the Arsenal/Solarium crags. They're right next to each other, and feature 2 of the better (imo) .11a's in Muir. Bathtub Mary and Air Ride Equipped. Can get warmed up at the Great Arch, which is just down the way and has a 9 and 10a. I find the grading at PMRP a little stiffer, but it has a ton to offer as well. Amarillo Sunset is a great route that has a beautiful setting, but if you're just pushing into 11's I'd not recommend it as your first stop. Definitely check it out. I've never sent it, but in my opinion, if you want to get an idea of what you're in for, hop on Loompa at the Chocolate Factory. The Chocolate Factory and Drive By crags each have climbs in the range you're looking for, with Drive By being more well regarded. Typing all this really makes me miss it. Just moved to VA and haven't been in the Red since summer. Enjoy!
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Nov 19, 2015 17:04
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 12:16 |
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FiestaDePantalones posted:Thanks for all the advice guys! I ended up one-hanging Johnnie B Good on the first day, and sending it the next! Nice! NPLH is stunning. Good move in getting on it. You got stopped at the rest/bolt where it starts to get overhung, or out on the arete?
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Dec 1, 2015 15:10
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