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TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

gamera009 posted:

That means one of two things:

1) Your finger is fat. Lose some weight fatass. :smugdog:
2) A kid was climbing that route. You know what the squishy poo poo is. :negative:

3) Possible protein rich mid-climb snack

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TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Seconding Rock and Resole. Even though you snail mail everything they have a great turnaround and do fantastic work. Got my solutions and testarossas done by them.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Also: Prana pants 4 lyfe. I have a pair of the stretch zion shorts and 2 pairs of the bronson pants. They look fine for everyday wear and are absurdly comfortable.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Pantschat is the best chat :colbert:

I also wear Levi 511s when I'm in a jeans mood, they stretch well and make my butt look good.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Slim Killington posted:


As a new climber I'd expect you to do a 5.6 no sweat, but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6.

Most people will never get to V6 :)

poo poo gets way hard super quickly

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

JustAnother Fat Guy posted:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/fatal-accident-on-el-cap

A moment of silence for a fallen brother :smith:

As a fellow big wall climber, I can't think of any worse of a way for the guy to die. Kind of takes a little bit of the fire out of wanting to do the big adventurous ascents.

They have a bit more detail on the accident here
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-52013

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Discomancer posted:

Any day I can climb hungover and manage to not be this guy is a good day.

Now I'm going to drink to forget how terrible I was at climbing today.

Ah, the inescapable cycle. Be a terrible climber, drink, get fat, be a terrible climber, etc etc etc.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Although sometimes I go and climb some intermediates in front of new people and feel awesome before I go flail on my projects and cry.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Frown Town posted:


I'm too scared of ropes and harnesses. :ohdear:


Me too :ohdear:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

ZeroDays posted:

Thanks for the steep climbing tips. I'm climbing at about a 6a+ / 6b level (when little steepness), but one of the easier 5+ steep climbs kicked my rear end. I don't do any exercises for climbing other than more climbing, so it may be time to do some pull-ups and a few other suggestions so that I actually find it restful when hanging on jugs with one arm. I've been at the same level as my partner for the 7 months since we began climbing, though he's beginning to speed ahead, which is demoralising. I'm sure his increased reach helps (he's about 7 inches taller than me) but I can tell I have a lot of ground to cover on technique, especially when I've been compensating for reach up until now.

Endurance actually comes pretty quick if it's something that you focus on for a few sessions. Jump on some overhangs that you can either onsight or do within 2-3 tries and climb up and down that problem until you absolutely can't hold on anymore. If you have a few climbs in that range then you can create a little circuit where you climb them one after another with little or no rest.

Another option is to jump on a few things that are at a steep overhang but that are easy for you to do and create a circuit with those. Simply putting in volume and making a large number of moves is going to help you out a ton. It'll help a lot with technique as well because you'll eventually figure out what movements are making your overhang climbing more efficient. Just put in volume and you'll be fine!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
I've luckily never gotten a flapper in 3 years. Feels good man.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
I have worn my fingers down so far that the pads bleed though. Just no big ugly flappers

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Sleepstupid posted:

Trip report: Didn't wear socks :clint:. Didn't contract any horrible foot smells/diseases :downs:.

Gross.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Goddamn rain ruining my goddamn Foster Falls trip. Do you chatty locals think it'll be worth a drive up from Florida this weekend? We've already gotten a bunch of bunks reserved at the Crashpad

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

pokchu posted:

Some of the stuff at the bunkers stays dry, but with this much water you're probably SOL. You could always come to chattanooga anyway, and spend all your money at the flying squirrel Dan and Max, the owners of the Crash Pad, opened it a few weeks ago. Honestly, the only thing nearby that might be dry is MAYBE the honeycomb roof up in Dayton, and that's only one section of bouldering.

Thanks, we ended up cancelling all of our reservations. I was really looking forward to getting out of Florida over the 4th too

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

gamera009 posted:

If you haven't cut off the flap, then use superglue to put it back in place. Works fine for me and most climbers I know use it.

If you already cut it off and cleaned everything, I would use some NuSkin or superglue to make a patch that covers it well. Taping over it is possible, but it typically means wrapping the whole goddamn thing. I prefer to either lay off it or just put a new "skin" over it with superglue. YMMV

Or just do what I do and don't get flappers :smugdog:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

who cares posted:

Believe me, I try!

I will give superglue a shot. Thanks for the suggestion.

I have weird skin, it never tears no matter how much I punish it but I've found that it wears away faster than others. This makes me hate slopers.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

ante posted:

Apparently this is A Thing in the Netherlands


Man I wonder how often they set new routes on that monster.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

magicalmako posted:

Anyone wanna trade left ring fingers with me? Or fix it with a miracle cure? Mine seems to have tendonitis.

I'll give you my middle finger for your ring finger. Torn collateral ligament :smith:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

JustAnother Fat Guy posted:

Whenever I crack climb I fear for my collateral ligaments. Like a pulley or tendon tear I have coped with in the past, but torquing a finger out sideways and tearing the joint capsule is a potential injury that terrifies me :stonk:

What's the sort of recovery period on those? I've become quite acquainted with pulley injury care but collateral ligament injuries seem a lot less documented.


Well my doctor did verify that it was most likely my problem when I showed him the exact spot that hurt but it's not 100%. I've been reading that it's one of the slower injuries in terms of healing and recovery but I can actually climb on it still. It's not a full tear but it hurts pretty drat much whenever I put pressure on the right side of the finger, finally taking some time off to try and let it heal fully but it's hard to keep myself from doing anything.

Most things I do aggravate it so I have my middle and ring fingers buddy taped 24/7 but the worst thing is that my job involves typing all day. I think that and using a mouse is what really prolongs any kind of healing.

Although my finger occasionally dislocates sides slightly. Gotta pop it back into place a few times a day. It was healing fine but then I was a silly boy and climbed on it a bunch and now I'm back to square 1.

Beth Rodden has a pretty cool post about a few collateral ligament injuries that she's suffered

http://blog.bethrodden.com/2012/03/collateral-ligament-injuries.html

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
It seems really basic so I'd say the test should be for terminology and then have the presentation be about safety/knots/commands. Knowing proper safety techniques will be a lot more useful to a bunch of new younger climbers than researching the Grampians. Just drill it into them so they don't kill themselves.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Routes are generally designed that way, a lot of the time the start itself is a challenging move. If you skip using the available starting footholds then you're not doing the full problem/route and it doesn't count as actually finishing it.

Sometimes setters or problems outdoors will have one of the hardest moves be the start itself, kind of defeats the purpose if you just start moving your hands while your feet are on the ground rather than putting your feet on the intended start holds. Although if you're strong enough to skip the starting footholds like when you're campusing then it'll still count. Just being on the ground makes the move trivial though.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Last_Ranger posted:

I don't think I've ever posted in here since the first iteration of this thread, but I'm fuckin' psyched that I sent my first V5 yesterday. I've been climbing on and off for probably a decade now, and before my last year and a half break I was doing 3's and 4's. Seeing some real improvement in my technique and strength has made me feel great. :woop:

Keep it up buddy!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
I can't say this enough.

gently caress.

Slab.

A 5.11 slab sounds like literal hell.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

beat9 posted:

Does anyone have any good strength exercises to recommend? I've been climbing indoors for about 6 months and I'm looking to improve my core especially. I climb two or three times a week, mostly bouldering and I'd like to complement that with some strength exercises. Lately I've been finding that aside from learning a couple of neat techniques my core is probably what needs most work.
I've been reading a bit around the net, and it seems most people don't recommend heavy strength exercises as you risk becoming too large, or heavy rather.
I think my arms and legs have a pretty good progression, and I know for a fact that ever since I started using straight arms my back and shoulders have been getting a pretty decent workout.

Weightlifting is fine, climbers are just judgmental sometimes. Do some body weight stuff like planks and side planks along with a basic lifting program.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Unoriginal Name posted:

Falling? Feet-> rear end-> Back

Don't roll sideways in the air. Always try for arms up and feet down and remember that when you start heel hooking and jumping.


What kind of name is that???

:frogout:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Pedestrian Xing posted:

Anyone in the Chattanooga area looking for a climbing partner? I'm still pretty new but really want to get more into climbing.

I travel up to Chatty a few times a year from Florida for Obed/Foster/LRC. What climbing areas have you been going to?


Also it makes me sad that some of you guys were in Tampa but not since I started a few years back :smith:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
There is some easy stuff out there depending on where you go; it also depends on what level they'll be climbing at as well though. If they're 5.9/5.10 climbers then you can probably tag along and get some TR 5.8/9s in.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
How did he free solo half of a 12a? Did he downclimb after getting to a certain point?

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Cybor Tap posted:

Impromptu trip to the Red River Gorge this coming weekend! Eee!!

Favorite climbs there?

Fuzzy Undercling!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Cybor Tap posted:

Impromptu trip to the Red River Gorge this coming weekend! Eee!!

Favorite climbs there?

And Amarillo Sunset!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Kefit posted:

If only I wasn't a weirdo introvert with social anxiety issues who considers himself lucky to have friends at all :P

But seriously, yeah the best times I've had at the gym have been when I've joined an impromptu team up to work a tough problem together. Maybe I should properly introduce myself and learn some names next time that happens.

Definitely! Climbers are some of the easiest people to get "in" with man. It's especially easy to get to know people who are around your skill level too.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
My goal? Let my goddamn fingers heal :negative:

Injuries have destroyed 2013 in terms of climbing progression, ugh!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
You'll be amazed at how much easier it is to hold on to bad holds once you get your footwork and body positioning down!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Sound_man posted:

Went to the climbing gym for the third time today. First time going alone so I was stuck with the auto belay routes. I was able to climb for a lot longer than before. I am using rental gear and I want to know if buying my own would make a difference. I can live with the harness but the shoes bug me. The gym just got a bunch of new gear so maybe its because it isn't broken in yet but I fell like the shoes are too stiff. I have a hard time 'feeling' the holds on the wall. What should the soles feel like?

The "feel" of a climbing shoe is completely subjective! I wear Solutions and Testarossas and prefer to have stiff thick soles that I can't feel much of anything through.

Other people like to wear shoes with thinner soles so that they can feel holds and rock through the shoe better.

But yes, having your own shoes will definitely make a difference. Most rental shoes are made to be durable and long lasting so they don't perform quite as well as ones that you can buy.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
This morning I woke up, grabbed my shoes, and had a short drive out to Stone Fort for some casual solo bouldering.

Then I woke up and I was in Florida again :smith:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Eat Bum Zen posted:

So I'm a 200lb guy (14%bf, like decently strong) who is having a lot of trouble progressing from v0-v2 to v3/v4s and it seems to me to be just straight up forearm strength (and it doesn't help that I only climb at the end of my normal lifting routine). At what point can I expect my grip strength to finally catch up with my weight? At what weight would I be able to climb more efficiently at?

I understand technique is a wholly different affair, but I've never met anyone who climbs at my weight and have no idea how bigger climbers are supposed to progress.

Try doing circuits on a bunch of overhung problems or doing some hangboard sloper/jug exercises. But to echo Baldbeard it's almost 100% your technique.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Tarnien posted:

I usually do 3-4 0's, then 1 of each grade up to whatever I'm working on

I do this as well.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

jackchaos posted:

Anyone traveling for the ccs comps?

I live in Tampa and go to USF so I may travel with the team to nationals in Melbourne. Too injured/weak to compete this year though. Where are you coming from?

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TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

jackchaos posted:

San Luis Obispo! In California. I get to set a finals problem and I'm hoping to use the atomik bomb cannon ball I just aquired.

Set a dyno with it.


Or a bathang :suicide:

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